Cement-sand tiles-style outside of fashion and time

As a resilient and traditional roofing material, cement-sand tiles have withstood the test of time. These tiles, which are recognized for their dependability and ageless appeal, still adorn rooftops with their unique design. Sand and cement combined make a durable composite that is popular for both residential and commercial roofs because it can withstand a wide range of weather conditions.

The classic aesthetic appeal of cement-sand tiles is one of their enduring features. They provide a rustic elegance that works well with both traditional and modern architectural designs. These tiles give a sense of character and solidity to any roofscape, whether they are used to cover a modern urban home or a cottage in the country.

In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, cement-sand tiles are prized for their longevity. Engineered to endure harsh climates and UV exposure, they provide long-lasting protection against the elements. Because of their durability, they are an affordable investment because they won’t require as many repairs or replacements over time.

Contents
  1. Cement-sand tiles: composition and characteristics
  2. Video: About cement-sand tiles
  3. The composition of cement-sand tiles
  4. Comparison of cement-sand and ceramic tiles
  5. Video: What is the difference between cement-sand and ceramic tiles
  6. The structure of concrete tiles
  7. The advantages and disadvantages of cement-sand tiles
  8. The advantages of cement-sand races
  9. Disadvantages of concrete hounds
  10. Video: Properties and features of the production of cement-sand tiles
  11. Comparison of cement-sand tiles with other types of material
  12. Comparison of cement-sand and composite tiles
  13. Comparison of cement-sand tiles and soft roof
  14. Installation of cement-sand tiles
  15. Necessary tools for work
  16. Features of installation
  17. Video: installation of tiles BRAAS
  18. Chatter under concrete tile
  19. Table: The step of the crate and the overlap of concrete tiles depending on the slope of the roof
  20. Video: installation of cement-sand tiles
  21. Laying cement-sand races
  22. Video: laying cement-sand tiles
  23. Arrangement of the ridge node and drainage
  24. Installation of drainage
  25. Table: Dimensions of the drainage elements in proportion to the area of the roof
  26. Video: arranging a cornice overhang on a roof of concrete tiles
  27. Installation of the skate
  28. Video: Arranging skates and ridges on a tiled roof
  29. Repair of cement-sand tiles
  30. Video: cracking tiles in Endov, causes and elimination
  31. Staining cement-sand tiles
  32. Video on the topic
  33. Fully roof-cement-sand tiles
  34. Cement -sand tiles: technology is quality, dialogue without bills
  35. Cement-sand tiles (miniral tiles) || Is the game worth the candle?
  36. How the cement tile is attached. How the tile ventilation works
  37. Cement-sand tiles in a wooden house.
  38. Cement-sand tiles #roof #Construction Domov #Occorsenzen #shorts
  39. Cement-sand tiles "BRAAS" Frankfurt
  40. Natural tiles BRAAS (cement sandy tiles)

Cement-sand tiles: composition and characteristics

Numerous roofing coatings that mimicked ceramic tiles were available. This is because of the last’s high price and substantial mass. The most popular substitute is cement-sand products, which are only outperformed by ceramics in terms of color brilliance and form variety.

However, you could counter that it’s sufficient to look at the new models, such as the "Adriya" tiles, which have rounded curves and a color that mimics old roofs, or the cement-sand races, whose smooth surfaces flawlessly accentuate the modern house’s front.

Video: About cement-sand tiles

The composition of cement-sand tiles

Natural material tiles made of cement and sand. It consists of:

  • washed sand;
  • Fighting to cement limestone;
  • water;
  • Pygmers of iron oxide.

Because cement-sand tiles are made at 60ºC in a low-temperature mode, less energy is used during the manufacturing process. This lowers the cost of production.

With an annual gas consumption of 14 m 3 per square meter, the energy savings from making materials for a 160 m² roof would be sufficient to heat the house for a full year.

UV-resistant plant dyes are added during mass manufacturing without compromising the tile’s strength. Following the form-giving process, a composition is applied to the racetra’s exterior to seal the concrete and enhance the tile’s appearance.

Concrete tiles are lighter than ceramic tiles (35–45 kg/m2) because of their structural design. Furthermore, because the races are larger, less material will be required to cover the roof. Flood: 10–11 pieces/m2, and flat: 12 pieces/m³. Additionally, a given model’s tiles are all identical, which makes installation much easier and faster.

Comparison of cement-sand and ceramic tiles

Comparing cement-sand tiles with ceramic goods:

  • easier, therefore, does not need an enhanced rafter system;
  • cheaper with equivalent operational characteristics;
  • more environmentally friendly – low concrete hardening temperature reduces emissions from² into the surrounding space;
  • More economical, although ceramic tiles are also produced in a different size – low -format products with a consumption of more than 20 pcs./m², medium -format (10–20 pcs./m²) and large -format (less than 10 pcs./m²) – but the price of large models is higher.

Better sound insulation is another benefit of this material.

Video: What is the difference between cement-sand and ceramic tiles

The structure of concrete tiles

Because of their unique structure, cement-sand races are easier to style, have a robust coating, and consistently shield the supporting frame from damage. The following are the salient features:

  • The rounded edge of the tiles does not prevent the removal of rain and melt water from the coating;
  • The main castle – a single, double or triple – increases the strength of the roofing fabric and prevents the blowing of snow and rain drops under the tile;
  • Strengthening rods enhance the resistance of the tiles to mechanical damage;
  • Side locks provide mobility to the gunts, which is why it is convenient to lay them on slopes;
  • The well -thought -out location of the hooks allows you to evenly distribute the loads (snow, wind and its own weight) onto the rafter base, in addition, point contact with the crate ensures natural ventilation of the subcutaneous space.

The advantages and disadvantages of cement-sand tiles

Concrete and other natural tiles have made a name for themselves as premium goods that satisfy even the most discriminating consumer tastes and adhere to global standards.

The advantages of cement-sand races

The following are cement-sand tiles’ primary benefits:

  1. Long life. Ensured by rigid quality control at all stages of manufacture. Reaches 100-150 years.
  2. Large warranty period. Leading manufacturers give a considerable guarantee to the tile itself and premature elements – up to 30 years.
  3. High level of water absorption. The finished products pass laboratory samples for water absorption and capillary, so the concrete tiled coating provides the protection of the house from abundant snow and heavy rain.
  4. Frost resistance. Concrete tiles withstand more than 1000 checks of inspections according to GOST 10060–95 to tolerance of very low temperatures.
  5. High resistance to temperature differences. At the same time retain their shape.
  6. Low thermal conductivity. The roof of cement-sand tiles retains heat in the living room in winter and cool in the summer.
  7. Fire safety. Concrete tiles are not limited to use in the combustibility class, which many roofing coatings cannot boast.
  8. Thoughtful weight. Concrete ralics have a large mass compared to "light" covering materials. However, this is their advantage, since heavy tiles will not break the fluid wind from the roof, unlike metal sheets.
  9. Universality. Cement-sand tiles are designed for laying on the roof with any slope. With a lot of sloping slopes, you can use anti -veil Klyammers as additional insurance for mounting.
  10. Noise protection. The composition and thickness of concrete tiles contribute to good sound insulation. Under such a roof, you will not wake up from the roar of rain and hail.
  11. Corrosion Indifference.
  12. Resistance to UV radiation and chemical impurities in the atmosphere.
  13. Environmental purity.
  14. Increased strength. The tiled coating can withstand a point load of 280 kg/m², as a result of which you can safely walk along concrete gunts without fear of damaging the covering material.
  15. Simplicity of installation and repair, as well as the ease of reconstruction. The presence of one vertical lock provides quick installation and opens access to each fragment. This makes it possible to easily replace the damaged horses with new ones and freely insert any additional element into the roof.
  16. Beauty and aesthetics.
  17. Good ventilation. Thanks to this, the supporting frame of the roof will be constantly dry, therefore, it will last much longer than under a coating of metal or bitumen.
  18. Low cost. Moreover, this does not affect the quality.

Disadvantages of concrete hounds

Even though cement-sand tiles have advantages such as wind resistance, sound absorption, and the development of a pleasant indoor climate, their primary flaw is still regarded as a heavy weight. As a result, building a rafter system requires careful consideration before installing concrete ralics.

Furthermore, the following are the covering material’s weak points:

  • limited color scheme – red, green, black, brown, gray and blue tones;
  • small variety of slices;
  • fragility – the material is resistant to point loads, but can be damaged during transportation.

The products of reputable and trustworthy manufacturers, who use certified raw materials of the highest caliber, come with all the benefits of cement-sand tiles. It’s also important to pay attention to the installation technology and storage suggestions.

Video: Properties and features of the production of cement-sand tiles

Comparison of cement-sand tiles with other types of material

The construction market offers a wide variety of tiles made of different materials. In the meantime, cement-sandy roofing coatings, among others, are generally the winners.

Comparison of cement-sand and composite tiles

Composite tiles are enhanced metal that lack several common metal flaws, including the following, because of the outer layer’s granular scattering.

  • reduced electrical conductivity;
  • The soundproofing and strength of the material is increased, however, if the polymer protective layer is damaged, the composite hounds become vulnerable to corrosion;
  • the plasticity is increased, which allows it to be used on the most intricate roofing structures.

In terms of thermal insulation, concrete products and composite tiles are similar. It is also simpler and less expensive, but its service life is only 50 years, nearly three times shorter than that of a cement-sand roof.

Comparison of cement-sand tiles and soft roof

Due to their extreme differences, it is challenging to perform a comparative analysis of these coatings.

Modified bitumen is soaked into the fabric base of soft tiles. The flexible tiled coating has a ceramic-like appearance, but that’s where the similarity to cement-sand material ends. Concrete has a spectacular volumetric coating that is unmatched by bitumen rains.

Benefits of soft tiles over cement-sand tiles:

  • flexibility, which allows you to cover conical, dome, onion and other complex constructions;
  • a huge range of slopes of slopes on which it is easily mounted – from 11 to 90º, and sometimes even negative values ​​of the corners;
  • wide color palette and variety of slices;
  • Lack of fragility and small weight.

The soft roof has drawbacks when compared to concrete bonds.

  • the need to arrange ventilation;
  • the presence of additional layers as part of a roof pie;
  • the inability to freely move the roof in hot days without risk to deform it;
  • Less service life – 50 years.

These two covering materials are nearly equal in terms of cost and thermal and noise insulation. The decision is based on the specific building conditions, roof configuration, building purpose, financial constraints, and individual preferences.

Installation of cement-sand tiles

The cost of installing concrete tiles is lower than that of ceramics. The structure of cement-sand tiles results in less labor-intensive work. Prior to making a tile purchase, consider the following:

  1. Availability of laying instructions. Brand manufacturers will certainly accompany their products with sheets-inputs with a full description of all stages of installation. If the seller does not have such an instruction, therefore, they try to sell a second -rate product for you, pretending it for the original.
  2. Provision of a guarantee. Tile manufacturers necessarily provide it. But often the guarantee is provided only when carrying out installation work by specialists who have permission from the manufacturer, the use of branded additional elements and fasteners, as well as subject to all the requirements for laying and operation, agreed in the instructions. Therefore, be sure to ask the conditions for providing a guarantee, and only then make a choice.

Necessary tools for work

Once the primary material has been obtained, ascertain whether the required tools are available and, if not, purchase the ones that are lacking to avoid having to halt work in their absence. In order to install concrete tiles, you’ll need:

  • roofing hammer;
  • Board belt for the tool;
  • Universal knife
  • folding ruler;
  • Plotnitsky pencil;
  • Luching saw;
  • knife -haired carbon on metal;
  • construction stapler;
  • scissors for metal;
  • level;
  • synthetic lace;
  • chopping off the dye;
  • a syringe for sealant;
  • roller for rolling;
  • converse on concrete;
  • battery drill with a set of nozzles;
  • Club disk of cutting;
  • Sloped corner saw.

Features of installation

Guidelines for laying cement-sand tiles:

  1. Fastening. Cement-sand tiles are attached to the crate located on the back of the products with hooks. At the same time, each subsequent row presses the previous one and reliably protects the place of fixation. But in some cases, individual sections must still be strengthened. The cement-sand racing slope recommended by manufacturers-22-60º. With a smaller boat angle (10–22 °), it is necessary to equip the lower roof – a solid in moderately solid base of chipboard or moisture -resistant plywood with a laying of roofing material or waterproofing films. With a slope of more than 60º should additionally fix each tile with screws resistant to corrosion or Klyammers so that the coating does not crumble during the wind or under the weight of its weight. Regardless of the boat angle, additional fasteners should be used in the skate and rib zone, along the line of ends, in the places of adjacence, outputs and installation of supporting elements. In regions with strong and frequent winds, each third element is additionally fixed with a sloping roof from 56 to 75º and every fifth with a slope of 45–55º.
  2. Rafters. The supporting frame is built taking into account the local snow and wind load, as well as calculating values ​​for deflection and strength. The minimum allowable cross section of lumber of 50×150 mm, and the rafter step should be in the range of 600–900 mm.
  3. Contact. For stuffing counterparts on a simple roof structure, bars with the smallest section of 30×50 mm are needed. They are laid on top of the water protection material along the rafters. For complex multifaceted structures or with a significant length of the rafter legs, the beams to 50×50 mm are increased.
  4. Waterproofing. With a slope of slopes within the recommended value of 22–60º for attic cold roofs without insulation of the rafter frame, sub -rod films can not be used.

Video: installation of tiles BRAAS

Chatter under concrete tile

Special requirements are placed on the concrete ralics crate because it is intended to support a significant amount of weight:

  1. It is made of conifers of conifers not lower than the 2nd grade, without passing knots and an inspection, with a moisture content of not more than 25%corresponding to the standards II-25–80.
  2. The section of the boards or timber is determined taking into account the upcoming loads. This is mainly 25×30 mm, 30×50 mm, maximum 40×60 mm, but the final decision remains behind the designer.
  3. The step of the sparse crate depends on the slope and length of the slopes, as well as the size of the tiled ralics. It is indicated by manufacturers for each type of product. The average distance between the bars is 31–35 cm – for a larger angle of inclination, a larger step of the crate. The pitch of the controllers along the entire length of the bars should remain unchanged.
  4. The distance between the bars of the cornice should be in the range of 32–39 cm. Please note that they measure it along the outer faces of the first two stacked bars. The step of the overhang is not considered the main one and depends on the location of the lower tiles relative to the gutter. Their hanging over the drain should not exceed the ⅓ diameter of the gutter itself, which is achieved by adjusting the first and second timber.

The process for suppressing the conversation:

  1. After installing the lower two bars and their adjustment with respect to the gutters, the highest is stuffed, retreating 30 mm from the ridge, and with a slope of more than 30º – at a distance of 20 mm.
  2. The interval between the second and upper beam is measured along the upper edges. This value will be determining for calculating the crate.

Determining the crate’s step is simple. For instance, at a frozen distance of 700 cm, the chosen concrete tile model’s length is 43 cm, its inclination angle is 25º, and it overlooks 10 cm, t. e. 33 cm is the estimated step (43-0-10). The next step is to adhere to the plan:

  1. Find out the number of rows: 700/33 = 21.2 rows. Round to the whole number – 21 row.
  2. Correct step: 700/21 = 33.3 cm.
  3. Close according to the table. For slope 25º maximum minimum step 31.2 cm, maximum 33.5 cm. Thus, the tile model you like is quite suitable for styling. It will require a crate of 21 row of bars with a step of 33.3 cm.

Table: The step of the crate and the overlap of concrete tiles depending on the slope of the roof

Tilt angle The step of the crate, cm Overlap of tiles, cm
Up to 22º 31.2 … 32 10 … 10.8
22-30º 31.2 … 33.5 8.5 … 10.8
more than 30º 31.2 … 34.5 7.5 … 10.8

Video: installation of cement-sand tiles

Laying cement-sand races

The following is the order in which cement-sand tiles are installed:

  1. Conduct preparatory work. They include the preparation of forests, the creation of enclosing barriers along the overhangs according to the requirements of SNiP 111–4-80 and raising hounds in batches to the roof.
  2. Measure the length of the m lands, skates, ribs, calculate the step of the crate.
  3. Explore the geometry of slopes. Check is done with a two -meter rail. Acceptable deviations according to SNiP 3.04.01–87 p. 2.43 from -5 to +5 mm on a two -meter interval.
  4. Enhance the load -bearing elements near the attic windows, in the places of adjacence and passages, and then lay a roofing pie with the arrangement of the lower roof if necessary.
  5. Lay out the lower and upper row without fixation.
  6. The coloring lace is marking on the crate – the location of the extreme pedimental columns and the entire width of the slopes of every third or fifth vertical is repelled.
  7. Lay the racetracks from right to left, moving from the bottom up on the markings made. The adjustment of the width of the flooring is achieved by a sharp tiles for the necessary in size and shape fragments.
  8. Additionally, the cornice row, on which the maximum wind load, the finish row, all subcutaneous racies, as well as adjacent to the passage hatches, dumpings, attic or auditory windows and walls, are faced with klyammers or galvanized screws of 5×70 mm. On the rest of the slope surface, the safety mount is used as needed.
  9. On melliton or tent roofing structures begin to lay up from the center of the slope, laying out initially a vertical column in the middle of the bottom to the top. Then the entire lower row is formed, the vertical masonry is marked if possible and the hounds are mounted from the bottom up from the laid column to the ribs. As a result of the correctly carried out work, a stiff, even and very beautiful coating will be formed.

Video: laying cement-sand tiles

Arrangement of the ridge node and drainage

Other components are also required for the roof to appear integrated; some of these are standard, while others must be made to order or purchased separately.

Installation of drainage

You can install a steel, PVC, or copper drainage system for cement-sand tiles. Furthermore, there aren’t any notable variations in the installation.

The drain’s fundamental requirements are:

  • The minimum slope of the gutter is 3 mm per linear meter;
  • The step between the brackets is at least 70 cm, for copper products – 30 cm, and with a slope of the roof more than 30º – 50 cm;
  • hanging the lower tiles above the grooves no more than ⅓ their diameter;
  • Each pipe Ø 100 mm should remove water from an area not exceeding 150-200 m², and the water flow is directed from the apples to the pedimental overhangs.
  1. After laying the waterproof film, a continuous flooring of 200 mm wide from the boards equal in thickness is filled with a cadet -width of the cauliflower.
  2. Make the germination markup for each slope separately.
  3. Mount the funnels at the installation site of the pipes.
  4. Fix the first and last holder, and between them with the necessary slope extend the cord along which the rest of the brackets will be installed.
  5. Remove the chamfer from the edges of the gutters with a knife and the plugs are installed.
  6. Put the gutter, closing the joints with internal brackets.
  7. Install clamps with a step of not more than 1.5–2 m, and then mount the drain pipes, putting on each other and leaving a compensation gap of 4 mm. The lower edge of the pipes should be located from the ground at a distance of at least 40 cm, which will reduce the likelihood of freezing water in them.

Table: Dimensions of the drainage elements in proportion to the area of the roof

Roof area, m² The size of the gutter, mm The size of the drain pipe, mm
up to 65 100 75
up to 100 125 100
up to 200 150 100

Video: arranging a cornice overhang on a roof of concrete tiles

Installation of the skate

The ridge is arranged with specific early components, which are acquired considering the conflict, an unsuccessful trim, and an excessive 60 mm. Leeward-side styling installation gets underway:

  1. Mount the first clamp flush with lateral pedimental bonds and fix it to the beam with screws or roofing nails.
  2. The first tile is inserted into the clamp and fixed with the following fasteners, which is nailed through the aero element to the ridge beam with two roofing nails.
  3. Due to the holes in the clamp, about 1 cm, the racetracks are mounted throughout the skate ridge with such a step that the whole number of tiles will meet.
  4. Install a ventilation grill or plug on the end and attached to the bar with galvanized nails or screws.

Video: Arranging skates and ridges on a tiled roof

Cement-sand tiles are a classic that never goes out of style; they provide roofs with long-lasting beauty and strength. Their timeless appeal stems from a combination of dependability and stylish adaptability, which makes them a sustainable option that works well with both modern and traditional architectural styles. Cement-sand tiles are a well-known roofing material that not only improves a building’s aesthetic appeal but also offers strong weather resistance, guaranteeing longevity and peace of mind for both builders and homeowners."

Repair of cement-sand tiles

Modern cement-sand tiles do not require for the roof. The sole prerequisites are:

  • Do not rocking the ice and dancing snow on the coating;
  • Walk on the roof in shoes on non -slip soles or on wooden ramps with a width of at least 40 cm.

Regarding the repair, it is essentially unnecessary as well. When the simple трещинки or плитки раскололи, then the поступают элементарно — заменяют их новыми, бто благодаря продуманному замковому креплению сделать просто.

The following actions need to be performed if tile damage resulted in leaks:

  1. To examine the damage area and determine what exactly requires repair – most likely, the waterproofing is disturbed, which will have to be replaced. Perhaps the repair and insulation need the repair.
  2. Remove the tiles on the leaky area, remove or cut the bars of the crate and counter -attack.
  3. Cut damaged waterproofing with a knife and put a patch on this place, smeared with roofing glue or mastic.
  4. Cut new parts, treat them with an antiseptic and nail them in place with anti -corrosion nails.
  5. Put new hounds and apply a colorless composition of synthetic resins, which will protect the tile from moisture and mold.

Video: cracking tiles in Endov, causes and elimination

Staining cement-sand tiles

The owner determines whether coloring the cement-sand roof after repair is necessary. This is useless for contemporary tiles if:

  • These are products of well -known manufacturers with a good reputation;
  • Materials were purchased 10-15% more;
  • The roof is covered with an antique coloring – in this case, damaged tiles can be replaced with any skills suitable in tonality.

The old coating has mostly lasted for eighty years. In order to restore such a canvas, the following steps must be taken:

  1. Remove tiles and clean them with an iron brush from moss.
  2. If necessary, to repair the load -bearing elements, the rails of the counterparts and the crate, replace insulating materials.
  3. Put the racetracks.
  4. Wash the coating and dry well.
  5. Treat with an antiseptic.
  6. Grind and sparkle with a cement with a primer or a liquidly divorced Ceresit CT 85 (this will help restore the surface).
  7. Paint acrylic, polymer or acrylic-polymer paint, giving a rich color and resistant to burnout, which will further protect the rough coating from pollution.

As a resilient and classic roofing material, cement-sand tiles have withstood the test of time. They are a well-liked option for homeowners looking for dependability and aesthetic appeal because of their sturdy construction and classic appearance.

Cement-sand tiles’ timeless appeal stems from their ability to mix in with a wide range of architectural styles, from modern to traditional. Because of their adaptability, they can be used with a variety of house styles, increasing the property’s aesthetic appeal and market value.

Cement-sand tiles are renowned for their extraordinary durability in addition to their aesthetic appeal. These tiles provide long-term weather protection without sacrificing style because they are resistant to extreme weather conditions like rain, wind, and sunshine.

The fact that cement-sand tiles are environmentally friendly is another benefit. Compared to certain synthetic roofing materials, they have a smaller environmental impact because they are made of natural materials like cement, sand, and water. They are therefore a sustainable option for homeowners who care about the environment.

In conclusion, cement-sand tiles are a dependable roofing option for any house because they combine timeless elegance with sustainability and durability. They continue to be popular in roofing applications because of their resilience to weather and ability to improve architectural appeal.

Video on the topic

Fully roof-cement-sand tiles

Cement -sand tiles: technology is quality, dialogue without bills

Cement-sand tiles (miniral tiles) || Is the game worth the candle?

How the cement tile is attached. How the tile ventilation works

Cement-sand tiles in a wooden house.

Cement-sand tiles #roof #Construction Domov #Occorsenzen #shorts

Cement-sand tiles "BRAAS" Frankfurt

Natural tiles BRAAS (cement sandy tiles)

What do you think, which element is the most important for a reliable and durable roof?
Share to friends
Gleb Zuev

Exterior designer, author of books about roofing materials. I will help you make your roof not only reliable, but also beautiful.

Rate author
Innfes.com
Add a comment