How to build a garage from corrugated board with your own hands

A useful and affordable way to keep your car safe and store tools is to build a garage out of corrugated board. Well-known for its resilience to weather and strength, corrugated board is lightweight and simple to work with, which makes it a great material for do-it-yourself projects. Building a garage out of corrugated board gives you the flexibility to alter the design to suit your needs, whether you’re looking to increase storage space or require a place to keep your car safe.

It’s crucial to carefully plan your garage project before you start. Start by measuring your car’s dimensions and any extra storage needs to determine the size of the garage. Taking into account the design of your property, pick a location that satisfies any local building code requirements and offers simple access. For a stable foundation, the area where the garage will be located must be cleared and leveled.

After deciding on the location, collect your supplies and equipment. Corrugated board panels, metal or wooden framing, fasteners, nails, roofing sealant, and standard building supplies like a saw, drill, and measuring tape are required. Concrete may also be required for the foundation or an anchoring system to secure the structure, depending on your design.

Build the base or foundation for your garage first. To build a stable platform, this usually entails laying out and leveling treated lumber or concrete blocks. For your corrugated board structure to have a stable base, make sure the foundation is square and level. Give concrete enough time to cure before moving on to the next step if you’re using it.

Next, using the selected framing materials, assemble the garage frame. The structure’s skeleton can be made of metal poles or wooden beams that offer stability and support. Pay close attention to your design plans and make sure that every component is level and firmly fastened. The corrugated board panels will be fastened to the frame, which will act as their skeleton.

Installing the corrugated board panels can now be started with the frame in place. To guarantee appropriate drainage and weatherproofing, begin at the bottom and work your way up, overlapping each panel as you go. Make sure the panels are firmly fastened and aligned by using screws and washers to fasten them to the frame. Any windows or doors you intend to install should be carefully inspected to make sure they are sealed correctly to stop leaks and fit snugly within the frame.

Put the final touches on your garage. To improve weather resistance, apply roofing sealant to the corrugated board panels’ edges and seams. When necessary, add any extra features like windows, doors, or ventilation. When finished, your do-it-yourself corrugated board garage will offer a sturdy and useful area to store items and safeguard your car.

Stages of the construction of the garage

To avoid annoying mistakes, it is advised to break the process down into multiple steps and follow them religiously.

Selecting a location for construction

Gathering of resources, instruments, and machinery

Once all the problems have been fixed, the material has been bought, and the tools are ready, you can start building a garage directly out of corrugated board.

Fill the foundation

Building a monolithic foundation beneath the garage is advised. As we’ve already stated, there’s no need to use the viewing pits at this time. This makes the foundation preparation process a lot easier. Work will go much faster if ready-made reinforced concrete slabs can be purchased. However, this option comes at a cost that is roughly two to three times higher than an independent filling of a monolithic reinforced slab. Furthermore, the cost of the car crane that will need to be ordered in order to install the completed concrete slab is not included in this.

Step 1: Mark the area for construction, remove the turf, and level the foundation.

It’s advised to pile turf for composting; the following year, it will make a fantastic organic fertilizer for all of the nation’s plants. The only method of working on the site while on wheels is a garden car. You will need to labor there manually using bayonets and Soviet shovels.

The garage’s foundation needs to be ready.

Sensible guidance. Get rid of the turf and level the ground so that the foundation is no higher than ten centimeters above the ground. Only begin the earthenware process once the slab and spit thicknesses have been determined.

Step 2: Add a layer of sand to the area, roughly 10 to 15 cm thick.

Sand can be easily transported in a wheelbarrow.

Without fail, sand pillows are necessary because they detect and balance the earth’s seasonal swelling. If they don’t, the concrete plate may crack or the garage may start to "walk" in the spring, the gates may not close or open, and roof leaks may occur.

Figure out the necessary volume before placing your sand order. It is easy to do; just keep in mind the elementary school arithmetic formulas.

Sensible guidance. Increase the amount of sand by roughly 30% during the order; this serves as more than just loss prevention. Sand is a building material that is frequently used for purposes other than construction and is always useful in summer cottages. Sand is necessary for even minor structural improvements in heavy clay soils.

Sand should be applied to the area as firmly as possible to aid in the alignment process. You can immediately under the entire foundation, or you can align in small areas as it goes to sleep. Adjusting standard garden rakes is the next step after using a suture or bayonet shovel. Aim for the sand layer’s maximum level of flatness.

Step 3: Recall the location. It is preferable to use a specialized gasoline or electric vibro plate for this purpose. If not, set up a standard wooden flea market. I’d prefer not to work physically. In this instance, use a lot of water and sand.

Step 4: Build the formwork beneath the range hood. Trimming boards that are 25–30 cm high and 2-3 cm thick are ideal for this. Depending on the stove and pillow’s respective thicknesses, different sizes should be used. The upper planes are aligned in accordance with the construction level, and the boards are fastened to the ground using pegs. Proceed with caution during this operation; the formwork needs to be strong enough to sustain the force of the liquid concrete while keeping the board side surfaces horizontal. In the future, a concrete slab will be leveled.

Step 5: Place a metal mesh over the sand to strengthen the sand slab. The cells have a diameter of roughly 5 cm, and the wire is 2-3 mm thick.

Grid reinforcement using a 50×50 mm cell

Vital. The reinforcement grid needs to be raised two to three centimeters above the sand. As long as the concrete’s thickness is within 10 cm, this is acceptable. There is no purpose for this kind of reinforcement if the net is not filled with concrete from all sides. The reinforcing layer should be roughly 1/3 the thickness away from the upper or lower surface of concrete, regardless of thickness. Such concrete will likewise not function on the bend if it is installed in the center of the layer.

Step 6: Verify that the grid is in its proper position before pouring concrete into the foundation. You can order it ready or complete it on your own.

The first choice will be roughly twice as expensive. Concrete can be mixed manually or with the use of concrete mixers. In addition to making work easier, the concrete mixer raises the material’s quality. If a mixer is lacking, it is preferable to temporarily borrow one as opposed to using a shovel. Mix the concrete according to the ratio of 1:2:3, adding two parts sand and three parts gravel for every part cement. Such concrete has more than enough strength for a garage stove.

Step 7: LEARNING AND EATING CLEAM IN THE NEAR While Pouring. Initially, using Soviet shovels will suffice; however, in the end, you should follow the rule. Use formwork to regulate the plate’s upper plane position.

The foundation construction for the garage has been finished on this project. Concrete shouldn’t dry out too quickly, so cover the plate with plastic wrap.

There is a film covering the foundation.

The plate needs to be thoroughly moistened with water and covered with plastic wrap at least twice a day if the weather is exceptionally warm and windy. Concrete requires both time and moisture to reach the required strength. About two weeks after filling, more work can be done.

Using corrugated board to build a garage is a useful and affordable do-it-yourself project that anyone can do with the correct equipment and supplies. This article walks you through every step of the procedure, from site preparation and planning to corrugated panel assembly and finishing touches. Building a corrugated board garage offers affordability, durability, and customization options to meet your needs, whether you’re looking to protect your cars from the weather or need more space for storage.

Production of a welded frame


This option is similar to those who own a welding machine and have performed welding tasks before. The garage must also be positioned close to the electric line. If not, you will need to maintain the portable generator. The equipment on this list is almost as expensive as a cheap metal garage.

Step 1: Install the lower belt of the frame on the stove based on the size; first, trim off all of the blanks.

Step 2: Weld the lower belt. Depending on the metal thickness, the electrode diameter and current strength are chosen. The metal is molten, but it shouldn’t overheat; the seam should be even. Overheating steel causes it to lose a great deal of strength and causes what is known as a "metal vacation," which modifies the alloy’s crystalline structure. The seam strength of a skilled welder should be at least 80% of the primary metal strength.

Sensible guidance. Never weld a whole seam at once; doing so will undoubtedly cause it to slide to one side during solidification. Take hold of two pipes first, wait for the seam to cool, and then measure the angle. Next, adjust the parts’ position in one or both directions and create a new tack. Once more, make sure the angle is normal. Only then can the seam be extended the full length of the pipe connection.

Step 3: Weld the lower strapping to the vertical racks. The method welded identically. The element is first taken hold of and leveled; only then is a continuous seam superimposed. Remember that it is difficult to cut off and reweld an entire seam. This design is not only challenging technologically, but it will also be considerably compromised.

The frame’s lower belt and the racks

Step 4: Verify the vertical racks’ sizes and, if required, align the ends. Doing this beneath a rope positioned between two extreme supports is far simpler. Weld the strainer at the top.

Vital. It is far simpler to call for help than to attempt cooking the frame alone, which is exceedingly risky and difficult. And one last thing. Always remember to take safety precautions. This serves to shield the eyes not only from UV radiation that can cause retinal burns, but also from current. Rainy weather prohibits cooking and makes it unsafe to walk on damp surfaces.

Step 5: You can weld the roofing system’s components once the garage frame is prepared.

The upper strapping is welded.


The future garage’s ready-made frame

Here’s another image of the frame with the door installed.

Every welded seam needs to be scale-free, have its passes verified, and any trouble spots fixed as needed. Paint can be applied to the frame, although this is optional. Metal is kept out of direct contact with water by profiled sheets. For many decades to come, it will be required because corrosion has caused the structure to lose its supporting qualities.

Production of a prefabricated frame

Extremely responsible work requiring proficiency with special tools and metal structures. However, you are not a skilled welder. Make a rough sketch of the garage, noting the dimensions of the spacers, rafter system, vertical racks, strapping, and other structural components. To determine the quantity of metal and to cut the identical frame elements to the same size, a sketch is required.

The garage is not very large; it can accommodate vertical racks, gates, upper and lower strapping, and rafters. For all other enhancing elements, 20 × 40 × 1 mm spacers and rectangular pipes measuring 25 × 50 × 1.5 mm are sufficient. The garage is 6 meters long by 4 meters wide by 2 meters high for one car. The rafters in the skate have a length of 2.1 meters and a height of 0.5 meters.

You can order the rental’s cut based on these measurements when you buy it; this will help with future assembly of the structure and improve accuracy. You should purchase an extra 4–6 meters of pipe for assurance, as a novice builder won’t be able to predict all the subtleties of the design right away. It will also be far more expensive to go to the store specifically to purchase several meters of the missing rental than it will be to make a reservation straight away. This option is much more convenient as the frame will be collected, and it is manufactured in the same way as the welded option.

Step 1: Lay out the pipe segments for the roof elements, vertical racks, and lower binding on the ground. As a result, navigating the spaces between the racks and determining where to add more spacers, etc., will be simpler for you. D. You can also estimate the rental amount at this time.

Pipe arrangement around the lower perimeter

Earth’s pipeline layout

Step 2: Begin gathering the frame’s walls, either from the left or the right. Drill holes that measure Ø6 mm, fit a bolt and nut into the holes, and join two pipes. Perform this action throughout the entire garage. If everything is normal—check that the corners are 90 degrees—you can firmly tighten the bolts.

The pipe connections are angular.

Sensible guidance. Difficulties arise when combining pipes in the middle because a short bolt and nut cannot be used. You must take a self-tapping screw in this situation. Don’t make a through hole; instead, drill every hole using the standard technique, weakening the pipe’s last wall only. The components are then securely tightened into a single structure by the self-tapping screw, which then independently cuts the thread in it.

Middle pipe connection

Purchase longer bolts if you find this difficult or if you have any concerns about your strength.

Step 3: Attach the spacers to the frame’s wall. Harvest each garage wall in the same manner. Create a template to save time on repetitive measurements. Any section of a wooden rail or a pipe the appropriate length can be used for this. Drill multiple holes on the template to represent all the distances needed to assemble the frame, and then inscribe each one close to the mark. The template can be manufactured in a maximum of thirty minutes, and it will save numerous hours when in use. Additionally, there is absolutely no chance of error when using the template.

Step 4: Assemble all the side components and create the top and bottom strapping.

The framework of the garage wall

Vital. The bolts to the stop should not be tightened. This needs to be done gradually and only below the building level; the instrument needs to be controlled with the proper vertical rack placement.

Don’t wait to tighten the bolts until it stops.

Step 5: Make sure the frame is stable and tighten all of the connections again. If your hands are not strong enough to push against the structure, add more braces or other stops. Remember that angled spacers are thought to be more dependable because they do a better job of preventing structural displacements.

An overview of the garage frame

Sensible guidance. In order to reinforce the rigidity of the framework, it is advised to additionally fasten metal squares measuring approximately 10 × 10 cm to the frame’s straight angles.

Squares made of metal to make the structure more rigid

Step 6: Set up the rafter system’s farms. This component, which is manufactured in multiple stages, is the most challenging to manufacture.

  1. Measure the length on which two pipes overlap. This refers to REPLIVINA and the longitudinal pipe lying on the frame on top.
  2. Cut the two lines near the wall itself, bend the cut piece inside the pipe or completely remove.
  3. Insert the prepared ends of the two elements into each other, drill holes and connect. For strength, fix the metal square.

The rafter system farm

Welding a farm’s rafters

Step 7: Attach the rafters to the garage frame that have been gathered.

This is the appearance of the garage frame.

Image taken from a different perspective

The assembly frame is now prepared, and profiled sheets can be used to begin.

Steps to Build a Garage from Corrugated Board: 1. Plan the Layout and Size
2. Prepare the Foundation 3. Frame Construction with Metal Beams
4. Install Corrugated Panels for Walls and Roof 5. Add Doors, Windows, and Vents
6. Securely Anchor the Structure 7. Finish with Trim and Sealants

For many homeowners, building a garage out of corrugated board can be a useful and satisfying project. Corrugated board is a reasonable substitute for more expensive materials like brick or wood because it is lightweight, strong, and relatively simple to work with. Make sure you have a well-defined plan before you begin. Measure the space you have available and take into account any applicable local building codes or regulations.

First things first, get the area where your garage will stand ready. Make sure the area is level and compacted, and remove any debris. While there are many different types of foundations, a straightforward concrete slab or gravel base can give your building a secure foundation. Don’t forget to leave enough space for drainage to avoid standing water inside the garage.

Pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions when assembling the garage. The majority of corrugated board kits include pre-cut panels and all required hardware, making assembly simple. Make sure all connections are tight to withstand weather conditions and that each panel is firmly fastened.

After the structure is put together, think about including ventilation, windows, and doors as finishing touches. These components improve your garage’s appearance in addition to its usefulness. To guarantee the longevity and safety of your new structure, make sure that all parts are installed accurately and securely.

Lastly, keep your corrugated board garage maintained by routinely checking for wear or damage. To avoid more problems, replace or promptly repair any damaged panels. When maintained properly, your do-it-yourself corrugated board garage can last for many years, giving your cars and equipment a place to store or shelter.

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Gleb Zuev

Exterior designer, author of books about roofing materials. I will help you make your roof not only reliable, but also beautiful.

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