How to cut a hole in the roof under the pipe

It is crucial to approach the task of cutting a hole in your roof to accommodate a pipe carefully and precisely. Although this procedure may seem difficult, you can complete it safely and successfully if you have the correct equipment and know-how. You can navigate the process with the help of this step-by-step guide.

First, assemble all required equipment and supplies. Generally, you’ll need a ladder, safety goggles, gloves, a tape measure, pencil, straightedge, drill with hole saw attachment, and jigsaw. Before stepping onto the roof, make sure your ladder is sturdy and secure.

Next, mark the location of the pipe’s roof penetration. To preserve structural integrity, this location should ideally be as close to the center of the roof’s span as feasible. With your tape measure, take an exact measurement of the pipe’s diameter.

Make a precise outline mark of the hole that needs to be cut with a pencil and straightedge. To ensure accuracy, check your measurements twice. This is an important step because it will direct your cutting and help you avoid making mistakes.

Now, depending on the material of your roof, either use a jigsaw or attach the proper hole saw attachment to your drill. Cut gradually and steadily starting from the designated outline. To keep control of the tool and prevent any unintentional harm to the nearby roof materials, take your time.

Keep an eye out for any plumbing, electrical, or other potential obstacles that might be hidden beneath the roof’s surface as you get closer to finishing the cut. Use caution so as not to harm these components.

To guarantee a clean finish, carefully remove any excess material or debris from the hole’s edges after it has been cut. To avoid any sharp or uneven surfaces that can harm the pipe or roofing material, you might need to use sandpaper to smooth the edges.

Lastly, make sure there are no openings or gaps in the vicinity of the recently cut hole that could cause a leak of water or other problems. To strengthen the waterproofing of the roof, if needed, seal the edges of the hole with an appropriate sealant.

You can successfully drill a hole in your roof to fit a pipe without compromising the structural stability or weather resistance of your house if you follow these careful and methodical steps.

Step 1: Measure and mark Step 2: Prepare tools and safety gear
Step 3: Position the hole Step 4: Cut the hole carefully
Step 5: Install flashing around the pipe Step 6: Seal and waterproof the edges

Where it is better to execute the pipe pass through the corrugated board?

SNiP 41-01-2003, "Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning," governs the installation of ventilation ducts and flues. Regulatory documents, however, contain no specifications regarding the chimney’s placement. The only thing that is expressly and unequivocally regulated is chimney height.

Calculating the chimney’s height in relation to the roof skate

The majority of experts think that it is preferable to place the pipe’s corrugated board output as close to the building’s roof skate as feasible. Condensate during chimney cooling is greatly decreased because the smallest portion is in the cold zone at the same time. This phenomenon is rather unpleasant because the condensate that forms on the chimney’s inner or outer surface contains strong acids that erode chimney brickwork.

The adjacence of the corrugated board to the pipe of the rectangular cross section

Numerous roofing components are made from corrugated board products. They contribute to the roof’s dependability in yend and adjacent locations by, among other things, obstructing the pipe’s output through the roofing profile.

In order to accomplish this, a unique apron is fitted around the pipe on the corps. Execute it using the metal components known as the gluing planks. They begin beneath the 150–200 mm corrugated board of coatings on all sides of the pipe. A roofing sealant further compacts the profile surrounding the pipe at the apron junction.

How to use a corrugated board to get around the chimney

This type of apron’s primary function in the upper portion of the pipe is to gather and move water that is flowing over the surface to the sides. Water is taken in by cornice strips that are affixed to the lower pipe and extend outward from its sides to cover the roof slope.

Before wrapping the pipe in corrugated board, it is crucial to carry out undercarriage isolation correctly. To accomplish this, a cross-shaped incision is made at the location of the pipe passage in the waterproofing membrane. The membrane’s excess is cut away, leaving a 50–100 mm reserve close to the pipe walls. The membrane is then adhered to the chimney’s walls using adhesive.

Prior to inserting the pipe through the corrugated board, we select the adjacent waterproofing method. Using the lower and upper adjacent planes is the simplest method. However, in this instance, the waterproofing membrane will be penetrated by all water that can pass through the pipe and the roof corporal.

Protecting the pipe bypass with a corrugated board apron from rolled waterproofing materials will be far more dependable. Under the upper plane bar, it is adhered. Make an apron using a unique kind of self-stick tape. Begin by adhering the lower section of the pipe, followed by the side ribbons and, lastly, the waterproofing of the pipe’s side, which is accessible from the skate’s side.

Roll waterproofing is used to connect the pipe to the roof.

Chimneys are occasionally added to buildings that already have ready-made roofs. In this instance, the corrugated board’s pipe hole is carved out such that 1.5 to 2.0 cm of stock is left around the edges. Subsequently, the waterproofing membrane is adhered to the pipe, the corrugated board is bent, and the lower adjacent bar is fitted. The waterproofing device is subjected to additional work, as previously mentioned.

The location of the smoke or ventilation pipe on the roof slope has a significant impact on the waterproofing’s complexity.

Corrugated board around the pipe located on the skate

The most straightforward and dependable roofing corporate junction occurs when the ventilation and smoke pipes cross the roof ridge. This pipe configuration eliminates the chance of snow pockets forming and reduces the chance of roof leaks. This option has the drawback of requiring you to break the skate beam and set up additional supports for it.

Taking water from the pipe is the primary goal of any option for its roof-based exit. This is accomplished by using special aprons made of a smooth metal sheet that matches the color of roofing corbids.

A sealant is applied to compact the lower portion of the apron. For making sealing adjustments, butyl tutorials’ elastic, self-adhesive taps are incredibly useful. The upper portion of the apron is shielded from the elements by the upper planes of the adjacent building, in the same manner as any other adjacent roof to the building wall.

Professor around the pipe on the slope of the roof

The most complicated situation in terms of the waterproofing device occurs when the pipe adjustment to the corrugated board is on the slope of the roof. This is because the layout of the house frequently makes it impossible to remove the smoke and ventilation ducts at the location of the roof skate.

Severing the pipe through the layered paper

When using this option, the pipe is located, and proper installation of the apron’s upper portion is crucial because all water must be directed toward the pipe via the above-mentioned roof slope. It is necessary to train the upper portion of the apron for corrugated board.

When the pipe width exceeds 80 cm, the junction becomes the most complex. Due to its width, a ramp must be installed in the upper portion of the pipe in order to divert water to the sides rather than the center. Raining from a profiled sheet on roofs is a very challenging task. Simultaneously, two brief yendovs form above the pipes; these yendovs require the same technology as the ones in the roof’s plane.

The adjacent of the corrugated board to a round pipe

The majority of contemporary furnaces have multi-layer chimneys made of thin-walled steel pipes. Roller waterproofing materials with a bitumen basis can be used to waterproof the pipe’s passage through the roof.

How to use a professional pipe: sealing the bitumen-based release material’s location

Self-adhesive tape made of modified bitumen can be used in place of roller waterproofing materials. A silicone film that is removed in front of the sticker protects a self-adhesive bitumen layer. The uppermost layer of foil shields the tape from solar radiation-induced overheating and destruction.

You can use special aprons-caps to protect the pipes’ output through the corrugated board roof. Another name for them is roofing passes. Roof passages are installed over the pipe, and their apron is fastened to the roof’s crate.

The circular pipe’s output via the corrugated board with a carpet cap

A gap is left where the metal apron is adjusted to the pipe in order to account for thermal movements. It is sealed with a unique clamp that is fastened straight to the pipe and has a heat-resistant gasket. Another tool will be useful in resolving the issue of how to bring the pipe through the corrugated board on the roof slope rather than on the skate.

These gadgets are constructed from silicone or specialized rubber. Heat-resistant rubber or silicone cuffs are a simple way to modify the inclination angle and fasten them to the corrugated board’s surface. The sealant also compacts the intersection of the rifle and the roofing.

How to go through a professional pipe without violating the rafter system and the "roofing pie"?

When ventilation or smoke pipes are run through an insulated roofing pie, there are fewer issues. The primary challenge lies in maintaining fire safety while maintaining steam and waterproofing at the same time.

It is not advisable to place the smoke pipe near wooden rafters. As a result, the chimney’s passage is typically created in a separate box made up of two rafters that are positioned next to the pipe and two beams that are fastened in between them both above and below the pipe. Based on fire safety regulations, the distance between the transverse beams and rafters and the chimney is chosen. The ideal size for this pipe would range from 130 to 250 mm, depending on the material used in its construction.

Pipe going through a piece of corrugated board

Since basalt fiber is less hygroscopic than regular roofing insulation, a non-combustible heater with a high density is placed inside the box. Simultaneously, the steam and waterproofing canvases at the pipe location are cut out using an envelope, the edges of which are fastened outside the wooden box, to guarantee the tightness of the roof.

At the location of the passage, a continuous crate must be completed before the corrugated board beneath the pipe is cut out. It makes it possible to fix the corbed coating’s edges and the adjoining bottom bar of the pipe with reliability.

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The OPROFNASTILE offers you step-by-step instructions, professional advice, and pertinent and helpful information about corrugated board, including how to install and use it.

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How to remove the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board

Corrugated board roofs are among the most popular nowadays.

Its wide color scheme, excellent technical and operational characteristics, and ease of installation make it a great choice.

However, even with all the ease of installation, these types of roofs occasionally leak, and these leaks frequently occur where the stove pipe is located.

We will address the query regarding how to remove the pipe from the corrugated board through the roof as thoroughly as we can today.

We’ll walk you through all the necessary steps in this "All About the Roof" guide to safely cut a hole in your roof to fit a pipe. In order to guarantee that you successfully install or adjust a pipe penetration while maintaining the integrity of your roof, we’ll go over the required tools, pre-installation advice, and a step-by-step procedure. These easy steps to follow will prepare you to tackle this task with confidence and effectiveness.

Where it is better to display

The "Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning" section of SNiP 41-01-2003 contains the furnace pipe arrangement guidelines. Accordingly, there are specific guidelines in SNiP regarding pipe height, which vary depending on the location:

  1. If the chimney is located within 1.5 meters from the skate, it should be 30 cm above the roof.
  2. If the chimney is located within 1.5-3 meters from the ridge, its height should correspond to the height of the roof.
  3. If the chimney is located within 3-10 meters from the ridge, the pipe height should be 12 degrees below the skate.

Adhering to these suggestions is crucial.

Overestimating the height of the chimney will increase the risk of condensation, which is extremely dangerous since it contains acids that erode furnace brick. Underestimating the height of the chimney could result in an inadequate thrust.

However, SNiP does not specify the best location for the pipe to pass through the roof from the corrugated board. Experts suggest putting it on the skate, or as near to it as feasible, at the same moment.

  • Firstly, this will prevent smoke from getting into the attic.
  • Secondly, the smallest part of the chimney will remain in the cold zone, which will prevent the formation of condensate.

Installation of adjacency to a rectangular chimney

Adjacency must be done correctly to ensure that there is no leakage at the chimney’s output point. This is the purpose of the so-called apron. Its primary function is to gather and remove any water that may drip between the corrugated board and the pipe. They typically form the upper (decorative) and lower (main) adjacency.

You will need a sheet of galvanized steel and 150 by 230 mm standard strips of the same steel for the lower junction. These strips have a bend on top that goes beneath a 20 mm gorge and a bend below that that shields against a 16 mm course. The installation process is as follows:

  1. Installation of a sheet of galvanized steel from the lower edge of the chimney to the cornice. Instead of it is allowed to use a tie.
  2. Chimney stroke. For this, the adjacency planks are tightly attached to the pipe, a building pencil, or a marker marks a line along the edge of the bend for a string. It is convenient to carry out the stroke itself with a grinder with a stone around.
  3. It is very important to bend the sheets correctly one under another. Therefore, the first adjustment bar is installed from below.
  4. Next are the lateral strips.
  5. The latter is installed the upper bar.

Prior to installing a profiled sheet, the problem with the corrugated board pipe’s waterproofing on the roof must be fixed. There are two well-liked methods:

  1. Using only a standard waterproofing film. To do this, when it is installed at the site of the chimney, a cut is made by a convertible. After installation, the excess part must be removed by leaving a supply of 5-10 cm, after which you can glue the waterproofing to the pipe. But at the same time there is a risk of moisture directly on the membrane.
  2. Additional waterproofing. It is best to use a self -adhesive waterproofing tape. It is installed under a decorative adjustment. The installation sequence is the same as that of the lower accomplishment: starting from below, we go to the sides, and after – upstairs.

Installing a profiled sheet comes next in the process, followed by the installation of adjacent decorative planks. Apart from the stroke requirement, the steps involved in this work are the same as those mentioned previously.

Features of the adjustment of the junction when the chimney is removed through the horse

The easiest way for the adjoining to be installed later is if the chimney exits through the horse. Simultaneously, there is less chance of flowing and less chance of hanging around on the roof covered in trash and snow.

In addition, it will be necessary to compromise the skating beam’s integrity in order to put this idea into practice. The solution to this issue is to add more supports.

If the chimney is positioned precisely in the middle to remove atmospheric precipitation, a smooth metal apron that matches the color of the roof is used. The apron’s base needs to be taken.

The best material will be a self-adhesive tape called Butyle-Ki-Teddy. The upper portion needs to be shielded from decorative material leaks.

Features of the adjustment of the junction when displaying a chimney on a slope

The chimney is typically positioned on the slope, even with all the convenience of the above-discussed method. In theory, this does not lead to many more issues, and we have already covered how to install the adjustment correctly and set up waterproofing. Apart from possibly one significant "but".

If the chimney’s width is 800 mm or more in relation to the skate, you will require a water-allowing disconnect device. Two short yendovs are used for the installation of this design, and they are installed using the same methodology as regular yendovs.

Installation of adjacent to a round cross -sectional pipe

Often, a circular section is utilized in place of a rectangular brick chimney. Such pipes are waterproofed using foil tape made from modified bitumen or roll waterproofing based on bitumen. Additionally, the foil will prevent the tape from overheating, greatly extending its useful life.

It is not necessary to install two stages of adjacency in order to safeguard the chimney’s output.

Rather, a round pipe, also known as a roofing passage, has an apron-cap placed on it.

With the aid of sealant, it is firmly fastened to the crate.

When utilizing a roofing pass, there’s one thing to keep in mind.

Rubber will melt when heated by a pipe. A clamp with a heat-resistant gasket is fastened to the chimney at the junction of the pipe and the apron to stop this from happening.

Another way to solve the issue is to use a rubber roofing pass that is resistant to heat.

How to remove a chimney through the existing roof

The query of how to avoid the pipe on the roof by the corrugated board has already been addressed. We now examine the scenario in which it becomes imperative to extract the chimney via the current roof.

First, the preparatory tasks listed below are completed:

  1. Determination of the diameter of the future chimney.
  2. On a sheet of corrugated board, a cutting line is indicated by a construction marker. It is worth leaving a few centimeters of the reserve in a lesser way. For example, if it is necessary for a hole 40 by 80 cm, then it should be marked 38 by 78 cm.
  3. The cut of the hole is best done using a grinder with a thin circle of metal. In order to avoid the formation of burrs, work is carried out as accurately as possible.
  4. Make small cuts in the corners of the hole and bend out of those few centimeters of the profiled sheet that we left in reserve.
  5. At the site of the pipe passage, it is necessary to make a continuous crate so that there is the possibility of fixing the lower plane plan and a sheet of corrugated board.
  6. Slots in the insulation and waterproofing are made. In order not to throw off excess, waterproofing can be cut with an envelope and temporarily fixed the edges using brackets. This cannot be done with the insulation.
  7. Between the chimney and the two rafters located on the sides of it, the box is built. The size of the gap between it and directly by the chimney – in the region of 150 mm.
  8. The edges of the waterproofing film are glued to it.
  9. Before taking out the pipe through the roof, it is necessary to solve the issue with thermal insulation in order to avoid the occurrence of a fire. Stone cotton wool is best for these purposes. Just for this, we left a gap in the box.

Direct pipe installation is possible once it has been thermally insulated.

  1. Install the chimney in the box. It is important that there are at least 5 centimeters of the gap between the open parts of the pipe and the tree.
  2. So that the pipe does not fill up, steel clamps are used, which are attached to the rafter system and the boards of the crate.

The external work phase comes next. We will now talk about how to seal the corrugated board pipe on the roof.

  1. If just a round pipe, without a box, it is necessary to waterproof it, it is necessary to waterproof it, using a foil tape or rolled waterproofing, and install a roofing pass, attaching it to the crate and processed the fitness of the place of fit.
  2. If a rectangular box is displayed out, you will have to install the lower adjustment bar in order to prevent leakage.

Facing the chimney with a corrugated board

Environmental influences can be quite strong when it comes to chimneys. This:

  1. Temperature and precipitation changes.
  2. Condensate formation due to the difference in air and chimney temperature.

Furthermore, a naked pipe on a corrugated board roof is unappealing in terms of aesthetics alone. In order to address both of these issues, a chimney cladding project is required.

There are numerous widely used varieties of facing materials:

We’ll talk about how to cover a roof-mounted pipe with corrugated board. The profile sheet offers multiple benefits simultaneously.

  • Durability
  • Wide selection of color scheme
  • Convenience of installation
  • Easy maintenance
  • Light weight
  • Temperature resistance resistance
  • Environmental purity

Furthermore, corporate manufacturers produce unique facing sheets intended for decorating various designs, such as chimneys.

Consequently, we must face the pipe:

  1. Gloves or mittens to protect your hands. Profiled sheets are very sharp at the edges, especially if independent pruning was performed.
  2. Electric with a special blade. In extreme cases, in its absence, you can use a grinder with a thin circle. But keep in mind that the grinder is very heated by metal, which harms the polymer and zinc coating of the sheet.
  3. Screwdrivers and screws.
  4. Insulation. Any non -igniting material is suitable.
  5. Dyubel "Mushrooms" for attaching insulation and ordinary dowels for fastening the frame.
  6. Hammer.
  7. Drill with a drill under the dowel. In its absence, you can use a screwdriver, but this will slightly increase the cost of time.
  8. Metal profile for creating a frame. In his absence, wooden bars treated with an antiseptic are suitable.
  9. Directly cladding elements: profiled sheet and additional elements.

We head straight over to the installation.

  1. The first stage of work is the installation of insulation. To do this, right through it, drill a hole with a drill in a chimney and fix them with a hammer.
  2. Next, we build a frame for cladding from a metal profile and wooden bars. We attach it to the chimney as well as the insulation.
  3. Measure and cut off profiled sheets. The main principle: "Measure seven times – cut once".
  4. We fasten the cladding to the frame. The sheets can be adjacent to each other in a bust or overlapping. The second option is preferable, as it guarantees the absence of gaps.
  5. Installation of additional elements made by order. This is the upper cornice bar and a chimney umbrella.
  6. For greater aesthetic beauty, you can perform work on the installation of decorative adjustment of the chimney .

As a result, today we learned how to replace the chimney using corrugated board and extract the pipe that was embedded in the roof.

  • The output of the pipe through the corrugated board

    Pipe fastened from corrugated board to the roof.

    Initial data and material

    The necessary list of materials: corrugated board is a special material for covering the roof, which is made of sheet thin iron. Modern technologies do not stand still, and high -tech roll steel is used to cover the roof. Such material is considered very economical, resistant to wear, does not weight the roof. The physical properties of corrugated board allow him to work with him at any time of the year. Pipe – a special metal structure in the form of a cylinder, which will remove combustion products from fireplaces and stoves in residential premises through the smoke pass. The pipeline passes from the stove up and further through the roof of the building, to the street, rising upward above the roof level to a height of 1 to 3 meters. Basal wool is a non -combustible insulation, in other words, it is a special cotton wool, which on the one hand has a coating from a thickened layer of foil. Poster insulation scheme. Master Flash is a high -quality penetration made of special silicone or rubber. It is used to organize a passage through the corrugated board of the metal pipe. Master Flash has a flexible structure, which allows you to change the angle of inclination, which allows you to conclude pipe from different angles. Conveniently and simply attached to the surface. Provides additional sealing. Simplifies installation and helps to close the hole between the pipe and the corrugated board. The main difficulties in performing such work are that the part of the pipe that goes from the residential part of the house through the attic to the top of the roof will be heated, it will need to be isolated in order to exclude the fire. Also, the hole in the corrugated board, through which the pipeline will pass to the street, must be sealed to eliminate the flow and getting of water into the room.

    Although making a hole in your roof for a pipe can seem difficult, it can be done safely and successfully if you take the proper precautions. Begin by carefully determining where the hole will be located. Make sure it is positioned properly to minimize the need for structural supports and increase effectiveness. To reduce errors, measure several times before making any cuts.

    Next, select the right tools for the task. For cutting through roofing materials like metal panels or shingles, a reciprocating saw equipped with a metal-cutting blade is frequently advised. A sharp saw blade will allow for precise cuts and less chance of causing harm to nearby roofing materials.

    Make safety your top priority at all times. To protect yourself from sharp edges and debris, put on safety glasses and gloves. Have someone assist you from below if at all possible so they can steady the ladder and give you more support.

    Once you start cutting, go forward cautiously and slowly. If needed, start with a pilot hole and progressively enlarge it to the desired size. Take pauses to review your progress and make any necessary corrections. To make sure the hole is precisely the right size and shape for the pipe, keep in mind that patience is essential.

    Examine the surrounding area for any damage or loose materials after the hole has been cut. To stop water leaks, use the proper flashing or sealant to seal the area around the pipe. Lastly, make sure everything is firmly in place and that there are no openings that can jeopardize the integrity of the roof by looking both inside and outside the structure.

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    What do you think, which element is the most important for a reliable and durable roof?
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    Alexandra Fedorova

    Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

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