Installation of natural tiles: the main calculations and technology of laying clay roof

Natural clay roofing tiles are distinguished from other roofing materials by their sustainability, strength, and visual appeal. To install clay tiles and create a weather-resistant, long-lasting roof, exact calculations and a particular laying technique are required.

It is essential to make precise measurements and calculations before starting the installation process. First, determine the size and slope of the roof. The overlap needed between each row of tiles is determined by the pitch of the roof, which has an impact on the appearance and functionality of the roof as well as its ability to shed water.

The roof structure needs to be ready after the measurements are finalized. This entails making certain the roof deck is sturdy, hygienic, and able to bear the weight of the clay tiles. In order to avoid problems later, any necessary reinforcements or repairs are completed at this point.

Clay tile installation requires a methodical approach. It usually starts at the eaves and moves uphill to the ridge. In order to guarantee stability in the face of strong winds and unfavorable weather, each tile is precisely positioned and fastened with nails or clips. The roof’s water resistance is improved by the overlapping pattern, which also enhances its aesthetic appeal and gives it a timeless, classic appearance.

Modern innovations have been incorporated into clay roof tile installation technology while maintaining traditional craftsmanship. Using methods like tile interlocking or synthetic underlayment under the tiles improves resilience and weatherproofing, making the roof resistant to UV rays, rain, and snow for the duration of its life.

In conclusion, careful planning, accurate math, and expert craftsmanship are needed for the installation of natural clay roof tiles. Homeowners can enjoy a roof that not only improves the architectural beauty of their property but also offers dependable protection for many years to come by following these steps and employing contemporary techniques.

"In the roofing industry, installing natural clay tiles is a classic art that combines utility and tradition. This article explores the fundamental calculations and methods that are necessary when installing clay roofs. From knowing how much weight a structure can support to knowing exactly where to put tiles, every step showcases the perfect balance of engineering and craftsmanship. Investigating these computations and technologies highlights the enduring value of clay roofs in sustainable building practices while also ensuring their longevity and aesthetic appeal."

Stage I. Calculation and design of the tiled roof

First, let’s address the most crucial factor: design. You will also need a horse from the end, a cornice overhang, and waterproofing substrate in addition to the tiles for slopes:

Consider in advance which of these components you’ll need and how many tiles you’ll need for slopes (count by area; one square meter typically requires nine to fifteen skulls).

Additionally, make a decision now about whether you will use the attic as a residence down the road, as the roof pie’s device depends on:

Stage II. Assembly of the rafter system

Installation that is both skillful and high-quality is one of the most crucial requirements for the tiled roof’s longevity. Let’s examine its primary phases. Let’s begin with the preliminary tasks.

Make sure to check the rafter structure’s geometry, measure the diagonals, and compare their lengths before laying the tiles. Because the range of movement of tile locks is so small, all irregularities need to be leveled.

T.e. Unlike a soft roof, which can cover any radius, flaws in the roofing itself cannot be fixed.

As a result, check every plane and arm yourself with a two-meter rail or lace. A deviation of no more than 5 mm over a distance of 2 m is acceptable. To ensure a consistent load on the rafters, arrange the tiles in stacks of five to six pieces on the opposing slopes for ease of use.

Once you’ve chosen a roof pie, move on to the rafter system device. Because natural tiles have a substantial weight, the ideal rafter step is up to 75 cm.

Since the crate serves as the foundation for the tile, it is critical to accurately compute the crate’s step in order to determine the integer for the tile on the roof. As a result, ensure that the beam is precisely on the horizontal surface by using the level. Employ coniferous bars without inspecting them or passing knots. In the case of step-installed rafters:

• no more than 75 cm, take the bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm;
• exceed 90 cm, bars are needed 40 by 50 mm;
• If the rafter step reaches 110 cm, then the bars should be 40 by 60 mm or 50 by 50.

The marking cord is used to mark the rows accurately. In accordance with the marks made, it is pulled.

Give special consideration to the counterparty’s location, where the attic window will be situated:

Next, install a cornice bar or dropper, whose purpose is to keep wooden structures from getting wet by removing condensation.

Dropper installation is typically the easiest part of the entire installation:

Stage III. Arrangement of waterproofing and crate

When the base is prepared, proceed to the waterproofing apparatus:

• Step 1. On both sides of the yendov to the rafter legs, beat the bars.
• Step 2. Lay the waterproofing membrane on top of the counterparty, necessarily with the inscription and the front surface up.
• Step 3. Cut it along the edge of the cornice overhang with a margin of at least 15 cm. Lay it, starting from the right lower corner, and fix it with the help of a stapler, aligning the dropper. Bilateral tape will help you with this.

In real life, everything looks like this:

Now, using nails spaced about 30 centimeters apart, score the counter all the way to the rafters, on top of the membrane. Use perforated ventilation tape to seal the ventilation gap beneath the light cornice.

You must try on the lower row tiles and the drainage gutter bracket to determine the best location for the lower support crate. The support crate’s beam needs to be fixed 32–39 cm away from the bottom edge:

It is crucial to correctly waterproof pedimental overhangs at this point:

By the way, unique side tiles are affixed to the pedimental overhangs to make them look lovely.

Alternatively, you can use the more conventional approach, which involves setting up a pediment with carved boards, also known as hairstyles. All that needs to be done is apply an antiseptic and wear a metal apron for protection.

Stage IV. Installation of gutter

Put the drainage gutter in place using a pre-mounted mount now. Secure the drain pipe clamp to the building’s wall, then gather the knees using the connecting parts.

In order to prevent the drainage gutter from getting in the way of installing the lower pedimon tile, seal off the ends of the gutters on the pediments using a universal tip-bell tips.

And use the Klyammers, which are fastened to an additional crate, to close the gutter from the inside by joining its straight elements with the docking element:

Stage V. Working with apple

Place the yendov from bottom to top, beginning at the overhang of the cornice. In order to stop the groove in the upper part from sliding, it can be cut by 3–4 cm after it has been laid.

In case you need to determine the precise dimensions of the yendova, you can refer to this straightforward principle:

• In the event that the length of the yendova is no more than 4 meters, the width of each half should be 20 cm, and in the expanded form about 55 cm.
• If Endov is quite long, more than 4 meters, then in the detailed state the steel sheet should be at least 66 cm wide.

Use two screws to secure the yendov to the crate. For dense fraud, cut the paws on both sides, fasten with self-tapping screws, and seal the joint with sealing tape.

Next, create a subcutaneous area by rolling the edges with a roller to shield them from dust and trash:

Install a self-adhesive foam strip with water-repellent impregnation from each edge of the groove.

An overhanging aerunelion is fastened to the cornice overhang on both sides of the yendov. It should not extend into the yendov any farther than 10 cm from the edge of the groove, as this will prevent snow, debris, and leaves from accumulating there.

Verify that the Endova is visible for at least 13 and 15 centimeters. The truth is that rainwater will collect in the groove if the tile completely seals it off.

Stage VI. Laying tiles on slopes

When everything is prepared, try on a pediment atop another pediment, with a space of one centimeter between each one and the frontal board.

Mark the left edge of the pediment tiles on the crate and, at a distance of 30 cm per column, the position of the next columns after 90 cm to the left of it.

Put this marking on the crate using the lace. Now, freely arrange the tiles in the lower first row, paying close attention to the placement of every third tile in relation to the previously marked areas.

You must smash down a hammer to create a supporting spike that will be based on a frontal board, as shown in this master class photo:

Lay out the first column of the pediment tile along the previously marked vertical line, and fasten each tile of the lower row with a self-tapping screw through the holes drilled in the crest. Secure each tile in the upper section with two screws at the same time.

Next, arrange the tile from bottom to top on the incline, following the vertical line that has been drawn on the crate:

You can walk anywhere on the tiled roof as long as you have a safety leash. On hip and tent roofs, begin laying and marking tiles in the middle of the slope. To accomplish this, locate the center of the triangle by laying down a vertical row of tiles starting at the very top, placing it exactly in the center, and then laying down the lower row.

Next, mark the vertical rows where you want to succeed and start at the middle of the slope and work your way outward, placing the tiles from the bottom up along the rows to the ridges.

Stage VII. Fixation of tiles with different methods

Let’s now discuss the tile attachment. Only the lower row on the overhang, the upper skate rows, and the lateral pediment must be fixed, with the majority of tiles not needing to be attached at all up to 60 degrees.

Additionally, they affix the complete set of trimmed tiles, which are typically found on Endov, ridges, and the walls next to attic hatches and windows. The shards are additionally fastened with wire in windy areas.

However, the so-called "castle" or groove tile is also produced. She is the largest in area and shape, and her tile stands out from the others because it has locks.

Castles are made up of two edges—upper and side—that are layered on top of each other to guarantee consistent coating tightness. Furthermore, during installation, these tiles have protrusions below that adhere to the crate’s bars.

The double S-shaped, Dutch, and S-shaped Marseille tiles are the most widely used designs of this type of tile. To allow the tiles to be adjusted to the desired width or narrowness, the majority of them feature sliding locks. The tiles fit the bars’ current step perfectly because of these sliding locks, so there’s no need to cut them:

Furthermore, almost all tiles made today have two pre-made holes for screws. It is important to remember that they are not done.

In the event that you choose to fix the tile, you will need to drill these holes using a 6 mm drill bit, fasten the upper portion of the tile to the crate with two 4.5 by 50 mm anti-corrosion screws, and secure the lower portion with anti-vein kinamers.

Furthermore, the ventilation tile must still be installed on the ramp if its length exceeds 4.5 meters. One has a step of one meter and is situated in the third row. The ventilation tile is arranged in two rows if the slope is greater than 7 meters.

Since they obstruct the airflow beneath the cover, ventilation tiles are also required in areas with smoke pipes or attic windows.

Stage VIII. Window bypass and waterproofing of adjacence

You probably need to use flimsy tiles there, since the natural tiles avoid the roof windows (unless you all calculated perfectly). Place it next to the others and make every effort to seal the joints.

We have prepared a comprehensive master class on waterproofing natural tiles to windows and chimney pipes for you to learn about all the nuances involved in this type of work:

Here’s another illustration of how to "enter" the tiled roof through the window:

Stage IX. Trimming tiles for the junction in Endov

Using the lace on the groove, mark the suspension line so that the tiles on the groove are 8–10 cm in order to properly lay the tiles in Endov. Next, follow the indicated line and cut the tile at an angle. Please just avoid taking the tiny, tricky-to-fix triangle tile fragments.

You will need to use half-hearted tiles in order to move the column and guarantee a high-quality mount. About the cost, one piece for every two rows:

First, number the trimmed tiles and take them out of the crate for ease of use. We suggest using an angular cut saw, specifically designed for dry cutting heavy concrete, with a 2 kW power and a 22.23 cm diameter disk to cut the tiles. Use a face respirator or glasses to protect your eyes.

By the way, a water cooling machine will be used to achieve the accuracy. After using water to clean the cut tiles of dust, allow them to dry. Since you will not be closing anything, cover the edges with a cold Angobe that matches the color of the roof. This will be sold with a tile right away.

Use special stainless steel clamps to accurately place the cut tiles on the ridges. These Klyammers discharge two kinds of

• anti -white ones that attract tiles to the crate;
• universal ones that support tiles by weight.

The nail that is jammed into the closest sieve is screwed to the wire fasteners. Moreover, occasionally the wire is used so thickly that it clogs the crate itself rather than using a nail.

Stage x. Installation of ridge tiles

Use our thorough master classes to install a horse’s horse. The installation of the skate on the ceramic tile roof happens as follows:

Use Figarol, the air element with the highest section for ventilation, if there is a residential attic beneath such a roof. Any other aero element will provide ventilation if the undercarbon space consists solely of a cold attic.

When installing the beam, bend the beam holders so that the distance you measured beforehand coincides with the upper edge of the bar to the upper edge of the rafter leg. This will allow you to install the skating tiles.

Trim the tiles leaving a 2-3 cm space between them. Using copper wire or corrosion-resistant 4.5 and 50 mm screws, secure the cut tiles to the crate or the ridge skate directly. Special clamps made of stainless steel work well as well.

One holder is required at both the beginning and the finish. Next, install the intermediate mount exactly along the lace after pulling it.

Stage XI. Fixation of the ridge tile

Not worn out? Proceed now! You can skip this step if your roof is gable. Should a four-sized study:

After installing the ridge bars, begin riding the rifle device. You must place two skating tiles at the top of the regular to determine their height. Beginning froze at a slender end. To ensure that it rests on the adjacent waves, the ridge bar should be positioned lower than the skating tile. Leave a space of at least 1 cm between the ridge bar and the ridge tile’s inner surface.

Now exercise caution! The metal fasteners at the start and finish of the ridge beam need to be bent and installed. Along the lace, mark the intermediate bracket at intervals of no more than 60 cm.

A ridge beam should be installed straight into the mount and secured with screws or nails. In order to create roof ventilation, cut the tiles on the ridges diagonally, leaving 1-3 cm of space between each tile and the ridge timber. Clamp the tiles in place using screws on the other side.

Mark the center of a triangular slope with the lowest and highest crates. Then, lay out the lower row by moving from this mark left and right toward the ridges. Beginning in the center, arrange each of the ensuing rows.

You can use the Roll Material "Figarol" to ventilate the undercarbon space. Step-by-step, roll it out on an axial tape for a ridge timber and secure with a standard construction stapler every 30 cm.

Take off the rubber band’s protective tapes, then use a roller to press the material against the sides—don’t press the center. "Figarol" is laid with overlap on a different slope in the upper portion of the dummy.

Furthermore, Wakaflex waterproofing tape can be used for waterproofing:

Using a tiny release, begin attaching the first spine tile.Then, use two screws with plastic washers to secure it through holes drilled in the top and middle of the tile.

Installing the ridge clamp will allow you to fix the following ridge tile. Place every skating clamp precisely along the axial line, leaving a 5 mm space between each clamp and the skating tile:

At the top of the roller, all upper ridges need to be cut along the joint line. Simply place the hollow tiles on top, and mark the contour of the skating tiles so that they are cut 6 cm above this line.

Place one of these tiles in the Kleaimer on skating tiles and fasten it with a screw over the adjacent skates:

And lastly, the finished product. Arrange the skating tiles on the skate using the same layout as on the roller; the tile that goes to the yendov needs to be cut on both sides, though.

Use the original ridge tile to create a lovely decoration for the roof ridge. It should be fixed with 5×70 or 5×100 mm galvanized screws, with a small allowance during installation.

For a long-lasting and visually beautiful finish, installing natural clay roofing tiles requires precise calculations and methods. For centuries, clay tiles have been a preferred option because of their longevity, inherent charm, and ecological friendliness.

It’s important to determine how many tiles and what supplies are needed before starting the installation process. This entails taking into account the roof’s pitch, the size, shape, and composition of the tiles, as well as any extra elements like ridges or valleys. An accurate calculation guarantees that there will be sufficient tiles to cover the roof and that the structure of the roof can bear the weight of the tiles.

There are several crucial steps in the technology of installing clay tiles. In order to guarantee a level and even base, the roof surface must first be prepared. Underlayment installation is usually required to provide extra insulation and weatherproofing. The tiles are then installed in overlapping rows, beginning at the roof’s lowest edge and working their way upward. Leaks are avoided and water is diverted away from the roof thanks to this overlapping design.

It’s crucial to pay close attention to details when installing something. Care must be taken when placing each tile to guarantee a tight fit and correct alignment. To stop water from penetrating the roof, extra care is taken in positioning the ridge tiles at the peak of the roof and in any flashing surrounding vents or chimneys.

In general, skill and accuracy are needed during the installation of natural clay tiles in order to meet both functional and aesthetic requirements. When installed properly, a clay tile roof improves a building’s resilience to weather and durability while also adding a classic elegance that can raise the property’s value and curb appeal.

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