Soft roof: how to cover the roof with your own hands

Adding shingles or other soft roofing materials to your roof can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project that improves the look and longevity of your house. Soft roofing is more adaptable, comparatively simple to install, and provides superior weather protection than traditional roofing techniques.

We’ll walk you through every step of installing a soft roof on your own with this guide. We can help you save money, enjoy a new home improvement project, or just feel proud of yourself for doing it yourself.

Everything from the required equipment and supplies to advice on how to achieve a polished finish will be covered. These simple instructions will help you install a long-lasting, high-quality roof that will protect your home from the elements and improve its curb appeal.

The structure of the soft roof

I’d like to briefly discuss the characteristics of this unusual material before discussing the soft roofing design. It is actually a modified kind of roofing material. That’s all there is to flexible tiles; they’re made of more robust fiberglass or polyester canvas rather than ordinary cardboard, which we shall refer to as the bonds in the future. impregnations and improvements affected. Because of the altered polymer-bitumic composition provided by the waterproofing of the soft tiles, the critical temperature points were eliminated and raised to higher values.

A flexible tile is coated with crumbs of basalt or shale; this not only defines the coating’s design but also increases its resistance to mechanical stresses, UV rays, and other environmental variables. An adhesive layer is placed beneath the tiles and sealed with a protective film. A broad strip of adhesive is sometimes applied to the upper portion of the hounds after a tiny mineral sprinkle is applied to the lower surface.

The design of the roof pie

Flexible tiles are robust and long-lasting due to their multilayer construction; in fact, some manufacturers guarantee their products for as long as 25 years. Soft roofing materials typically have no trouble crossing this line. Naturally, we are discussing situations in which the soft roof’s base complies with recognized standards and the material is strictly laid in accordance with the available technology.

Examining the device of bitumen-coated roofs, we will categorize them into two kinds right away:

The former are built for cold attics. Many sites and print media sin in that indicate the inappropriate of arranging simplified roofing pies for residential buildings. Like, if the house is intended for year -round residence, then its roof must be warm. This statement is fundamentally wrong – most of the private houses of the old housing stock were cold. Moreover, there are pluses in the cold roof. And the most significant of them is durability. In winter, ice is practically not formed on such a roof, which, as you know, is one of the worst enemies of flexible tiles. In addition, the simplest roofing pie is perfectly ventilated, which means that the wooden frame will always be dry. As for energy efficiency, then for thermal insulation it will only be necessary to insulate the attic overlap. As you yourself understand, its area in any case will be smaller than that of the roof.

Thus, the following components make up the roof pie for cold roofs:

• a step (sparse) crate from a wooden beam or steel profile pipes;
• solid flooring (from plywood, OSB or shock boards);
• insulation lining;
• bitumen coating.

Professional brigade roofers frequently advise installing a superdiffusion membrane beneath the lining carpet, citing the superior moisture protection of a wooden base as justification for their recommendation. A highly debatable claim—I myself cannot be considered a waste. There is essentially no possibility that a wooden frame will get wet from rain or snow when there is a standard waterproof lining. Experts’ actions can only be explained by their desire to get paid a certain amount for a task that requires very little labor. Regarding the warm roof, the application of moisture-resistant coatings is necessary because thermal insulation is being used in this instance.

Fibrous materials—which are typically used for attic insulation—lose most of their special properties when they get wet, so it’s important to keep them protected. both from above—from leaks—and from below—from moist air. In this instance, the roofing pie ought to be constructed as follows:

• Reiki for the installation of lining panels;
• vapor barrier waterproof film;
• the thermal insulation layer;
• waterproofing windproof steam -resistant membrane;
• counterbrus;
• rarefied crate;
• solid flooring;
• lining base;
• Flexible bitumen coating.

You will be entirely correct if you claim that the rails that are installed between the attic and the roof pies have nothing to do with the attic. Nevertheless, we mentioned them since, in our instance, they also serve as fasteners for the vapor barrier’s lower layer.

Video: the correct installation of a roof pie is just

Using a soft roofing material to cover your roof is an easy do-it-yourself project that can save you money and give you the satisfaction of doing something better for your house. Even novices can produce results that look professional with the correct equipment, supplies, and methodical approach. From cleaning your roof to installing the soft roofing material, this post will walk you through every step of the process to guarantee a long-lasting and beautiful finish.

Soft tiles laying technology

Soft bitumen roofing has a visual resemblance to tiled roofing. Not only do installation technologies vary, but so do operational features, service life, and maintenance and repair protocols. Even though building a roof out of flexible tiles isn’t particularly difficult, you still need to pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions. The construction process should ideally be broken down into multiple stages:

1. Purchase of materials and tool preparation.
2. Preparatory work.
3. Laying of insulation materials.
4. Arrangement of the counterparts and crate.
5. The construction of a continuous base.
6. Laying the upper layers of the roof.
7. Installation of premature elements and passage arrangement.

By arranging your working hours in this manner, you can reduce the likelihood of errors and make well-rounded choices that will draw in outside support.

How to calculate how much and what materials will be needed

Before doing any mathematical calculations, it is necessary to first draw a thorough picture of the roof, or at the very least, a simple sketch that shows the precise measurements and characteristics of each slope. The computation process itself involves figuring out the main structural components’ numbers and geometric sizes:

• additional elements;
• gender carpet;
• lining layer;
• ventilated skate or roof aerators;
• a timber for a step -off crate and counter -bindings;
• boardwalk;
• soft coating.

It is imperative to acknowledge that the precision of the computations made impacts not only the roof’s price but also the project’s timeline. We will therefore determine the features of computing every roof component in as much detail as we can.

Apatic chasing

Several different kinds of proceeds are used for the protection and decoration of different areas of the soft roof:

1. Cornice bar or dropper that closes the lower edge of the crate from flowing moisture.
2. Wind or pedimentary apron used to insulate the ends of the roofing slopes.
3. Blood bar (fasting apron) – serves to seal the joints of the roof and vertical walls.

The pre-Garrier that is being presented has a standard length of two meters. However, the length of the area that needs to be protected should be divided into 1.9 or 1.85 in order to calculate the necessary number of strips. This is because the aprons and the strips are attached to a vessel that is 10 to 15 cm wide rather than mounted on.

End carpet

If the roof’s design incorporates fans and intersections with vertical surfaces, a unique apple carpet will be needed to waterproof these areas. Producers create it as 1-by-10-meter rolons, offering a variety of color options to match the tile coating’s tone.

After determining the carpet’s overall length, you should measure out 20 centimeters for each yendova. This will ensure that the lower joints are installed correctly.

Lining carpet

Depending on how steep the surface is, the lining layer may be installed entirely or partially along each ramp. A roofing carpet only protects the area of the roof that is most likely to leak if the slope of the roof is greater than 1: 3 (18 degrees):

• internal angles of adjacent to adjacent stingrays;
• rider part;
• ribs;
• sites with fractures of slopes;
• the edges of the pediments and cornices;
• Ventilation outputs.

It is necessary to install an insulating carpet over a distance of 10 to 15 centimeters. Because of this, its computed quadrature ought to be between 1.1 and 1.15 times greater than the slopes’ total area. The length of the roofing carpet strips matches the length of the roof sections that are prone to leaks if the lining is only partially equipped.

A lining with partial waterproofing should have a width of 40–50 cm. Only skates and external angles qualify for an exception, which lowers this value to 25 cm.

Skate aero elements

One 1.2 m long element can ventilate roughly 25 m 2 of subcutaneous space, so this is the starting point for calculating the number of skating aerators. When using point aero elements, the combined area of the nearby slopes should be divided into five equal parts. Each element is "served" by the precise number of square meters that make up the roof pie.

Remember that the height of point aero elements varies. Long surfaces are equipped with long, and steep roof slopes with short.

Lumber for crate

To equip the crate, a wooden beam with a cross section of at least 40×40 mm is used, as well as a board with a thickness of 25 mm. The length of the counterbrus is the easiest to determine – it is equal to the length of the rafter legs. As for the rarefied crate, the total length of wooden elements is determined based on the standard step width under the bitumen tile – 37 cm for rafters located at a distance of 0.9 m from each other. Consequently, the length of the rafter leg in centimeters should be divided by 37 and multiplied by the width of the roof – this will be the desired length of the beam, which will be needed for the battery of one slope.

Continuous base

Plywood or OSP sheets used to create a continuous base should be mounted on a scope, or with the seams overlapped. This is the reason an adjustment must be made when figuring out the material’s area:

• for slopes with complex geometry – up to 10%,
• for simple slopes – from 3% to 5%.

In order to prevent material overrun during installation, it is advised to determine the quantity of plywood or OSB in sheets and to arrange them on paper with the tightest styling.

Covering and roller materials

In the process of laying, tiled races of two types are used-horse-hearth and ordinary. The former are available in the form of packages, designed for 12 SOGs. m of the skate and 20 pog. m cornice. When calculating the second, the same correction coefficients are used as for a continuous base (simple roofs 3-5%, combined – up to 10%). To determine the number of sheets of flexible tiles, the total quadrature of ordinary hounds is divided into an area of ​​one bitumen strip. One pack of soft tile is usually designed for 3.5 m 2 of the roof – knowing this number, it will not be difficult to calculate how many packages you will need to buy.

With the following tolerances, the quantity of materials required for a warm roof pie is calculated:

• waterproofing and vapor barrier – at least 4%;
• Rolled thermal insulation – along the area of ​​the slope;
• Plaet insulation – up to 4%.

It is evident that the amount of slab and roller insulation is essentially independent of the roof’s complexity. This is because the materials don’t alter the structure’s appearance and can be joined together with ease.

What tools and consumables will be needed

The following tools and equipment, in addition to wood and roofing materials, will be needed for the project:

• saw;
• hammer;
• scissors for cutting metallic dates;
• metal spatula for mastic;
• Roofer"s knife (differs from the usual hook -shaped cutting part).

Purchase special nails for attaching a soft roof in addition to regular nails, which are required for building a wooden base. The latter are longer—25–30 mm—and have a wider hat (diameter, 8–10 mm). The fasteners found in automatic pistols are also appropriate; these fasteners measure 40 mm in length. Based on the consumption of 4 pieces per gont, or 500 grams per 10 m 2 roof, the quantity of nails is determined.

It will be necessary to use a bitumen mastic intended to waterproof building structures when installing flexible tiles. The area of the roof will determine its volume; up to one liter of liquid mixture will be needed for every ten square meters of coatings.

The type of material (cold or hot use) and composition have an impact on bitumen mastic pricing. Bitumen-polymer waterproofing is the least expensive, and bitumen polymer-aluminum coating is the most expensive. The latter is extremely resilient to UV rays and thermal aging. Bitumen-firing mastic, which has an average cost and good installation and operational characteristics, will be sufficient under our conditions.

Preparatory work

There are various steps in the preparatory phase:

• dismantling the old roof (if necessary);
• installation of a cash frame;
• installation of the heat -insulating and accompanying layers;
• The construction of a continuous base.

The steps involved in setting up a warm roof pie are as follows:

1. Installation of vapor barrier. A layer of film membrane allows you to remove moisture from the insulation and prevent air vapor from entering thermal insulation, so the correct orientation of the material in space is important (foil side, pile or black spraying should be located from the attic). The vapor barrier is attached along the lower surface of the rafters with a overlap of 10 cm and gluing each joint with tape. It is very important to mount the film in the direction from the bottom up to prevent a leak of condensate in the seams. To fix the horizontal panels of the vapor barrier to the rafter legs, wooden planks are used. Their step depends on which material will be used when executing the interior decoration. So, for a wooden or plastic lining, the distance between neighboring rails should be no more than 60 cm, while when installing plywood and OSB, a step can be increased by 10–20 cm.
2. Installation of heat and waterproofing. The space between the rafters is filled with a slab or roller insulation, on top of which a superdiffusion membrane is rolled up. It is mounted like vapor barrier – in the direction from the bottom up, leaving a sag between the rafter legs 2-3 cm for ventilation. At the same time, the upper panel of the upper panel should be at least 10 cm to prevent condensate leaks into the insulation. The joints of the neighboring canvases are necessarily glued with tape, after which the hydraulic boar is attached to the rafters by means of a wooden counterbrus with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Thanks to him, in fact, they receive a 5-centimeter ventilation gap between thermal insulation and the upper layers of the roof structure.
3. Installation of the crate. A walking crate is stuffed on the bars of the counter, and a solid flooring slabs on top of it. Their thickness depends on the distance between the leverage rails and is determined by special graphs and tables.

Table: Determination of the thickness of the continuous base under the soft roof

The material of the flooring	The distance between the elements of the crate, m
	0.3	0.6	0.9	1.2	1.5
	The thickness of the flooring, mm
Plywood	8	12	18	22	28
OSB	10	14	20	22	thirty
Board	–	20	25	thirty	35

We have previously discussed the necessity of laying the slab material according to the scope. Moreover, there should be roughly 5 mm of thermal gaps; otherwise, the heat from the summer will cause the arc to bend in certain places of the roof. To effectively ventilate the roof pie, gaps measuring 70–80 mm are left on each side of the ridge.

Note that building a crate and a plank floor is sufficient for a cold roof; additional components are rendered unnecessary as a result of the structure’s maximum simplification.

Video: how to build a continuous base for bitumen tiles

Step-by-step instruction

According to the manufacturer, bitumen tiles can be laid outside in temperatures as low as -15 °C. Commencing work during the warm season is preferable, as it saves money on warming up materials and requiring extra thermal equipment for installations during the colder months. Days with temperatures above 20 °C should be selected. In this instance, solar heat will warm the bitumen component, enabling a strong bond between all of the roof’s layers.

To properly allocate time and energy, we recommend following detailed instructions to install a soft roof on your own.

Formation of the lining carpet

The substrate is made of rolled materials made of a fiberglass satuum-polymer mixture. A mild base is sufficient for additional surface leveling, waterproofing, insulation, and noise absorption; it is not worthwhile to discard it. Roller waterproofing lanes can be installed either perpendicularly or parallel to the horizon; the important thing is to make sure that they are installed 15 cm at the joints and over the long side of the isolation.

From my own experience I can say that on steep roof slopes, the lining is best to lay in the vertical direction. And not at all because in this case the likelihood of leaks during heavy rainfalls is reduced. The fact is that under the influence of the earthly attraction of the waterproofing panel, sagging, and folds form on the surface. In order to smooth them well and correctly fix them, additional time and effort are required – you can’t do without assistants here. As for the gentle slopes, here, of course, the horizontal method of fixation wins, as a simpler and more reliable. It is only important to start work from an overhang and move towards the skate. In this case, each subsequent waterproofing strip will cover the edge of the previous one and there will be no chance to fall under the upper layers of the roof pie by the water.

When deciding on partial laying of the substrate on steep slopes, the protection of the most important areas should be provided. Therefore, the bitumen waterproofing should be at least 50 cm wide on both sides of the yendova and close to the slope’s edge (cornice line); for skates, this same width should be divided in half. Use a nail fight or construction bracket fastening with a 25 cm step to secure the lining layer. The litter needs to be adhered to leaky areas (such as yendov, adjacency, etc.) using a bitumen mixture.

The guidelines for installing flexible tiles are included in the list of materials that can be used as a bitumen base. Irrationally replace them with makeshift coatings like polyethylene film or roofing material because of their short lifespan, rapid thermal aging, and other issues.

Installation of yendy carpets and additional planks

When selecting a bitumen-polymer carpet for your yend arrangement, pay close attention to the primary coating color. You can use contrasting-toned materials for decoration; this will draw attention to the lines of each mockery and enhance the expressiveness of the roof. Experts advise covering a continuous piece of cloth with a width of one meter with an Endov and adhering it to the plank base with mastic. The junction is positioned as close to the roof’s peak as feasible if two pieces need to be docked. At least 20 centimeters should separate the top of the upper canvas from the lower, and liquid bitumen waterproofing must be used to secure it.

Cornice and pedimentaire are placed on top of the insulating carpet to shield the crate’s edge from sedimentary moisture and condensate draining. Roofing nails, clogged with zigzago at intervals of 10-15 cm (and up to 5 cm at the joints), are used to secure the strips. Plank ribs must follow the curve of the cornice or end ledge in order to withstand overhead elements by three to five centimeters along with adjacent additional elements. As a result, the front-line planks will overlap at the slope’s corners. It is best to fix the droppers first.

It is advised that the perimeter of continuous flooring be framed with a section measuring 20 by 40 mm prior to the installation of cornice and end protection. The waterproofing is installed on top and cut behind the perimeter line if the edge is made along the slope’s edges. Further components are attached after that.

Laying cornice tiles

The tile can be laid in even rows thanks to the horizontal marking lines put to the lining, which also make installation easier. The best way to shape them is with a chalk made of grated linen twine. To leave a trace on the dark substrate surface, the cord is pulled precisely in the right spot and released like a bow.

Starting races are nailed in place with roofing nails, one centimeter from the cornice line. The fasteners are clogged 25 mm from the edge to prevent the tiles from coming off under heavy wind loads. Bitumen mastic is used to protect the conjugation sites as each successive strip is laid down.

Installation of ordinary tiles

The primary coating is positioned with the first ordinary gont with an indent of two to three centimeters from the cornice strip’s edge, facing away from the slope’s center. It is sufficient to remove the protective film from the adhesive layer and firmly press the gunt to the substrate in order to fix the soft tile.

Nails are used for the last fastening at four locations: over the spaces between the interior petals and along the strip’s edges. One petal is used as the displacement for the upper sheets. As a result, the soft roof’s joints and points of attachment have closed and the same "tiled" texture is visible.

After cutting the tile that protrudes behind the slopes’ edges, bitumen mastic is applied to the cut.

Video: Technology for installing a soft roof from the manufacturer of the material

Skate arrangement and sealing the places of passages and junctions

The Aeruelonets mounted atop the skate provide the undercarbon space with ventilation. They are fastened with self-tapping screws or nails to a wooden frame. The skate portion is then sealed with pliable tiles. For external angles, there are no specific bands of soft bitumen coating; instead, the cornice tiles can be cut. The petals that have been cut off by the perforations are positioned across the skate and fastened with a nail from each edge. The next element is positioned with a 5-centimeter overlap, and bitumen mastic is applied to the point of contact for extra sealing.

Special passing nodes should be installed to close off any locations where pipes, cables, or other communication components pass through the roof slope. They are fastened straight to the base, even in advance of the lining carpet installation.

The upper roof layers are allowed to sit atop the passage, where they are mastic-impregnated and cut into place during the installation process. Roofing materials are permitted to the vertical structure’s surface in the same location where the slope meets a wall or brick chimney. A section of the apple carpet and a curly metal apron (adjoining bar) are used for extra protection.

Video: Arranging a passage node of a soft roof

Materials Needed	Tools Needed
Soft roofing material (e.g., bitumen shingles, roofing felt)	Hammer, nails, or staple gun
Roofing nails or staples	Tape measure and chalk line
Ridge and eaves flashing	Utility knife

Doing your own soft roof installation can be a satisfying project that improves your home’s appearance and usability. You can have a strong, weather-resistant roof that will shield your property for many years by following these steps.

First and foremost, success depends on careful planning. Before starting, make sure your roof deck is clear of debris, dry, and clean. This creates a strong base upon which the underlayment and other roofing materials can be installed.

The next important step is selecting high-quality materials. Select soft roofing materials and underlayment from reliable brands that are appropriate for your climate. This prolongs the life of your roof and guarantees resilience against changing weather conditions.

Paying close attention to details is crucial when it comes to installation. When attaching the soft roofing material and laying the underlayment, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. To avoid leaks and guarantee a tight fit, take extra care around edges, vents, and protrusions.

Finally, routine upkeep will increase the lifespan of your soft roof. Every year, check for wear or damage, and take quick action to fix any problems to avoid future expensive repairs. You can extend the lifespan and performance of your do-it-yourself soft roof installation by dedicating time to maintenance.

Video on the topic

How to cover the roof of the gazebo with flexible tiles, tips.