The greenhouses are single -sided

Agricultural enthusiasts and gardeners alike favor single-sided greenhouses, sometimes referred to as lean-to or mono-pitched greenhouses. These buildings have a special design that makes effective use of sunlight by having a solid wall on one side and a transparent or semi-transparent wall on the other. They can be easily mounted to walls or existing buildings thanks to this arrangement, which maximizes the amount of space in gardens, farms, and even urban areas.

The principal benefit of greenhouses with a single side is that they can optimize solar radiation. These greenhouses optimize plant growth conditions by aligning their transparent side with the path of the sun, allowing for continuous solar exposure throughout the day. In addition to improving photosynthesis, this orientation aids in temperature regulation within the greenhouse, establishing a microclimate that is ideal for plants.

The flexibility in placement offered by single-sided greenhouses is another important advantage. These greenhouses, in contrast to freestanding ones, can be easily positioned up against a building, garage, or even a garden wall. In addition to saving room, this integration makes it simple to access utilities like water and electricity, which are frequently found in nearby buildings. Growing and farming can become more accessible and efficient with such close proximity, as it can streamline upkeep and operational duties.

Single-sided greenhouses have aesthetic advantages in addition to their practical ones. Their simple design can blend in perfectly with both urban and rural environments, enhancing the architecture of already-existing structures. This integration encourages the use of underutilized spaces for environmentally friendly and productive uses, while also improving the aesthetic appeal and supporting the idea of sustainable urban agriculture.

Greenhouses with a single -sided roof: saving a place on a garden plot

When building a greenhouse, there are numerous factors that need to be considered in order to maximize its efficiency. For instance, the shape of the roof greatly affects airflow and lighting in the space, and heating a greenhouse that is built close to the house wall is significantly less expensive.

The greenhouse can be a large structure housing load-bearing farms and equipped, for example, with a glass fence or a straightforward frame covered in polyethylene film. Although they have a much shorter lifespan than capital, seconds are still far less expensive than capital. It can be greenhouses made of frames of frames, gable roofs, blocks, tents, or hangars with a single slope.

The design of greenhouses with a single -sided roof

Greenhouses with a single -sided roof are most often built attached to the wall of a residential building, outbuilding or a specially built wall. The slope is located at a specific angle, taking into account the climatic features of the region. The carrying design of such a roof is a semi -farm, which is covered with plastic film, glass or polycarbonate . A simple single -sloping roof for a greenhouse usually has a width of 3-4.5 m. As for the length, it depends on the size of the wall to which it adjoins. The height of the side wall of the greenhouse can be 0.9–1.8 m, depending on the plants grown. Glazing in a single -sided greenhouse arrange either oblique or vertical lateral.

Device for single-sloped greenhouses made of wood

The half -farms for greenhouses of the wooden structure are made from the cutting boards of the following sizes: the width is 75–100 mm, the thickness is 40-50 mm. Installation step – 2-2.75 m. Boards must be pre -treated with special antiseptic compositions. In 2–4 places, the semi-sections are nailed at the top of the semi-harvests (section 50 x 100 mm), to which, in turn, the SPRs is nailed, the installation step is 40-50 cm. These are rails that are made from coniferous woods. They should be without knots and have a section of 35–45 x 50–75 mm. SPRAS, but smaller cross -section, are also nailed to the ends of the greenhouse.

Since it can be challenging to shield their joints from rain, SPRAS should not be overly long.

The strength of the junction between the side wall and the roof slope determines how stable the greenhouse’s design ends up being. At the junction of the walls and the slopes, place rhombus-shaped grooves that are one centimeter deep. Additional bolts with washers and nuts (4 pieces) secure the joint itself. To prevent the bolt heads and nuts from falling into the wood, washers must be positioned at the ends of the bolts.

The upper end of the half-farms adjoins the wall, while the base is situated between two concrete anchors set in the foundation. Nails or screws are used to secure the material, depending on what is up against the wall.

Characteristics of single-sloping greenhouses made of frames

These kinds of greenhouses have a screed-prone middle row support system with a stand nailed to the support wall. The greenhouse’s vertical side wall is constructed from lower and upper profiled bars that are either directly attached to the springs or connected by racks that are the same size. The greenhouse’s frame is composed of bars with a 7.5 cm-side square section.

Shelves made of boards with a thickness of 35–45 mm are constructed for plants in this type of greenhouse. The shelves’ side walls are between 0.2 and 0.25 meters high. Screeds and racks support the shelves. Seedlings are raised in a unique shelf that is fastened to the surgeons’ screeds with unique steel holders.

With such a basic method, you can utilize the greenhouse’s entire volume.

A prefabricated greenhouse with a single -sided roof and its advantages

Building a one-sided greenhouse, or premise, at a south-facing wall of a house is a very simple task. This is the nearly half of the greenhouse that has a gable roof according to design.

As a result, the greenhouse proves to be a dependable storm-shielding wall for the house’s northern wall.

If crops that require different types of lighting are to be grown in the greenhouse, it is advised that the greenhouse be oriented from east to west. In this instance, the northern shaded area and the sunny south side will have different levels of illumination.

The greenhouse’s thermal regime is disturbed by a persistently strong wind because of the intense air exchange within. The necessary air temperature must be maintained, which inevitably results in higher energy use, which is undesirable. Plants need air exchange, which cannot be dependent on the direction of the wind at any given time. You can use natural protection methods to accomplish this.

The north side of the house wall and the hedge, which are planted at a certain distance from the greenhouse, serve as effective wind breakers.

Good opportunities to service a greenhouse arise from sending a direct message to the house. On the other hand, without having to send the house a direct message, the received winter garden can be used. The greenhouse can be heated very economically because of its small glazed surface and ability for the walls to retain heat. In addition, light building materials cannot adequately absorb heat to provide it when the temperature drops, unlike the walls of a house.

It is far less expensive to supply water, energy, and heat for a parliamentary single-sided greenhouse.

A parliamentary single-to-shuttle greenhouse requires shade and frequent ventilation during the summer.

The majority of the time, single-sided greenhouses are constructed and fastened to a residential building’s wall. Due to the local climate, the slope is situated at a particular angle.

With a single -sided roof with your own hands

The installation of capital greenhouses in individual plots is typically observed as a distinct structure.

Despite all of their benefits, this kind of shelter is not without its drawbacks:

• Increased heat consumption in winter due to the open north side;
• High cost of materials for construction;
• Inappropriate approach to the greenhouse in winter.

These drawbacks can be reduced with the use of a prefabricated greenhouse or other type of legislative shelter.

Types of parietal greenhouses

Prefabricated greenhouses come in a wide variety of designs.

Take a closer look at them.

• Single -shield. The most common type of greenhouse, which is a half of the gable greenhouse, with one side side attached to the building. Material consumption – exactly half of the standard gable shelter necessary for building. Can be covered depending on the purpose of both film and cellular polycarbonate.
• Gable. More difficult a building that adjoins the wall of the house by one of the ends. As well as polygonal buildings, often used as a winter garden or greenhouse. In the case of use as a winter garden or greenhouse, it is covered with glass, less often by cellular polycarbonate.
• Arched. Arched parliamentary shelter performs the same function as a single -slot. Compared to the latter, it uses sunlight more rationally and looks more aesthetically pleasing. In the absence of access to the pipeline, the building with your own hands is quite difficult. It is usually covered with cellular polycarbonate.
• Polygonal. This form is usually used only for the construction of winter gardens. It looks very presentable, the frame is made of aluminum profiles. Roof – glass or made of cast polycarbonate. The price of such structures is quite high. Option for those who can afford to invest in beauty.

The desktop’s small size and simplicity in the image

The best option for your own manufacturing in our latitudes would be parliamentary single-sloping greenhouses with a steel profile pipe frame and polycarbonate panels.

We attach the greenhouse to the house

It is possible to conditionally divide the creation of the polycarbonate roofed parietal shelter device into three main stages:

• Earthwork and foundation device;
• Assembly of a frame from a steel profile pipe;
• Roof device;
• The device of internal racks for plants;
• Auto -watering device.

The final two points are not relevant to this discussion and should be covered in another article.

A single-slot polycarbonate greenhouse that is attached to the house can be easily constructed by hand. You can assist it in its manufacture with our detailed instructions.

The house’s end has a greenhouse attached to it.

The foundation device and earthwork

Prior to beginning any excavation, you ought to choose the location for the building. The house’s southern wall is more appropriate for this than its eastern and western walls.

Never construct a greenhouse facing north.

It is almost never going to receive sunlight.

Building a separate structure is preferable.

We dig fill-in trenches and mark the foundation. 45 cm is more than enough depth for trenches. 2.5 meters is the most practical foundation width. Depth of trench: 25–30 cm.

Set up the formwork and insert a two-layer, 15x15x15 cm cell-sized reinforcing mesh into the trenches. Pour concrete until it is 15 to 20 centimeters above the surface. It is best to fix the greenhouse frame’s support pipes in concrete right away.

It is more practical to install concrete pipes 10–15 cm underground, attach a plumb line, and then weld them to a grid of reinforcement.

The external edge of the structure should be 2 meters high. The ideal dimensions for the support pillars’ cross section are 40 by 40 mm and 40 by 20 mm. The wide sides of the end pipes must be oriented parallel to the foundation. Step of installation: 60 cm.

Make the end support pillars five to ten centimeters longer than the calculations.

They will then "break in place."

One can observe a support pillar in the second picture.

Putting together a frame out of steel profile pipe

When the concrete eventually grabs, you can begin putting the frame together. We fasten the inner pipe of the frame to the building wall using a perforator. In the event that growing tall plants is not the plan, 2.7 meters will suffice.

The greenhouse’s roof should be no more than 40 to 50 centimeters from the lower edge of the house roof; otherwise, snow or icicles may damage the latter.

In a similar manner, we attach the greenhouse frame’s horizontal guiding from the profile pipe 40×40 mm to the wall. The horizontal directing to the outer edge’s supporting pillars is welded. It can be made from a 40×20 mm profile pipe by saving. Following that, you can start installing the rafters.

A method for fastening the frame components

A 40×20 mm pipe can also be used for rafters. It is better to place it "on the rib" for increased strength. The rafters need to extend approximately 20 centimeters past the external guide’s edge.

Under the rafters, we cut the supporting pillars of the greenhouse’s ends and welded them in place. Weld the remaining rafters in 60-centimeter steps. In close proximity to the foundation, weld the outer spacers. We welded the greenhouse’s outer edge spacers at a distance of one meter from the foundation.

One can construct the spacers using a 20×20 mm profile pipe.

In cases where the greenhouse’s width is less than two meters, strut spacers are not necessary. Incorporate a checkerboard pattern with a 1 meter step if the width is greater.

When selecting the pipe thickness for rafters, a 3 mm thickness is the recommended choice.

Following all of the welding, three to four coats of white oil paint should be applied to all of the frame’s metal components. The requirement to lower the frame’s heat conductivity influenced the choice of white color. Even better paint is silver paint, but it costs more.

Schematic drawing of the greenhouse’s completed frame

Paint the building’s wall white or cover it with foil. It will also cut down on heat loss considerably.

Handmade greenhouse projects include the following:

• Before starting installation of the roof, cut on paper all the necessary pieces of polycarbonate from sheets. Honeycombs should be oriented from top to bottom. Roof sheets should protrude 20-25 cm beyond the frame in all directions except adjoining the wall.

Coiled polycarbonate sheet attached to a profile pipe frame

Use a unique connecting profile to join the greenhouse’s walls and roof if they are not made of one piece.

• We cut the sheets of maclone and sealed its ends: the upper edge with a special foil, and the lower edge with a perforated ribbon.

The openings that are required in the end walls—windows and doors—should be carved "in place."

• Install polycarbonate, screwing it with roofing self -tapping screws through special goals to the pipes of the frame. Should start with the roof.

Roof apparatus on greenhouse with arched walls

Next, position the long side. The final one, however, has screwed ends. They are cut beneath the roof if needed.

All of the maclone’s joints need to be carefully sealed with silicone after the roof installation is complete. Mounting foam can be poured into and painted over the roof-wall intersection.

When a parietal greenhouse is built with skill, it will not only help save money on building and maintenance costs but also turn into a genuine home accent.

Halled greenhouse with a single-sided roof: cost, picture, greenhouse, and video instructions for building a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself

Halled greenhouse with a single-sided roof: cost, picture, and video instructions for building a polycarbonate greenhouse structure yourself

How to make a single -up greenhouse with your own hands?

A capital structure with supporting farms and a glass or other material fence is a single-sided greenhouse. An additional choice is a polyethylene-covered frame structure composed of racks. Although the latter will only be in operation for a short while, some money will need to be spent on building it. These days, capital greenhouse designs for individual plots are typically found as independent structures.

Figure 1. Diagram of a basic greenhouse apparatus.

Nevertheless, despite all of their benefits, they have drawbacks:

1. Inappropriate approach to the greenhouse in the winter period.
2. The high cost of materials that will be needed for construction work.

By building a parietal greenhouse, these drawbacks can be reduced.

Greenhouses with a single -sided roof

In most cases, such designs are built as extensions to the walls of private houses, outbuildings and specially erected structures. The slope is placed at a specific angle. The angle must be selected based on the climatic features of the region. The supporting element of such a roof is a semi -farm, which is covered with a film made of polyethylene, glass or polycarbonate. In most cases, an ordinary roof with one slope for a greenhouse has a width of 3.5-4.5 m. The length will depend on the size of the wall to which the structure will join. The height of the side wall of the greenhouse most often is 1-1.8 m. In this case, everything will depend on which plants are planned to be grown in the construction built. The diagram of a single -sided greenhouse made of wood is shown in rice. 1.

Diagram of a single-shoe winter greenhouse with a point of reference.

Half-farms for wooden greenhouses are made of trimming boards of such sizes: width-80-110 mm, thickness-45-50 mm. Next, you need to calculate the farm or find the finished project. Based on the data obtained, the optimal step installation step is 2.2-2.7 m. Before the manufacture of the design, the board should necessarily be treated with an antiseptic agent. In several places in the upper part of the semi -farm, it will be necessary to attach screeds with a section of 100×50 mm. SPROS will be attached to these elements in the future. The installation step of the latter is 45-50 cm. For the manufacture of SPROS, you need to take a beam of coniferous trees. There should be no bitch on the rails. Substruction of elements – 75×50 mm. Swires with a section of 45×35 mm will need to be beaten to the end parts of the greenhouse. These elements are not allowed to be connected in length, since in this case it will be very difficult to protect their joints from rainwater.

The roof’s slope and the side wall’s level of fixation will determine how stable the manufactured structure is. The area where the slope and walls meet needs to have rhombus-shaped grooves prepared. The grooves are one centimeter deep. The half-farm bases need to be put in between a number of anchors, which are further concrete at the base.

Single -sided frame greenhouses

A screed and a stand that are nailed to the supporting wall will support the middle row of SHRUs in these kinds of buildings. Profiled wood can be used for the greenhouse’s vertical side wall. Parts are secured with corresponding-sized scrolls or racks. There are bars with 7.5 cm sides that can be used to construct the greenhouse’s frame structure.

You must construct shelves out of boards that are roughly 30 to 40 mm thick in order to plant plants. The shelf side walls should be between 0.2 and 0.3 meters high. Leaning shelves on racks and screeds is required. On a unique shelf that is fastened to screeds with the use of steel holders, seedlings are raised. As a result, the entire volume of the constructed structure can be utilized.

A parliamentary single -haired greenhouse

Tools for installing greenhouses.

A parliamentary greenhouse, or single-toe greenhouse, can be installed at the wall of a private residence facing south. It is a ½ greenhouse with a gable roof by design. The wall of a private residence on the north side of inclement weather consistently shields such a structure. The greenhouse needs to be erected facing east to west if it is intended to cultivate plants that need different types of lighting. In this instance, the southern side’s illumination will be different from the northern.

The thermal regime is disturbed when there is a persistently high wind because of the greenhouse’s air exchange. It is therefore important to maintain the required air temperature. This may result in higher electric energy costs. It is imperative that the plants receive adequate air exchange; otherwise, they will become reliant on the wind, which blows only occasionally. It is advised to use natural defense mechanisms for this.

Direct communication with a private residence is advantageous because it offers the chance for cozy greenhouse service. On the other hand, using the winter garden is possible without having to communicate directly with the home building. Light construction materials, in contrast to the house’s walls, cannot absorb heat to the extent necessary to produce it when the temperature drops. Another benefit is that the supply of energy and water for the preferences is significantly less expensive.

Such a design will need to be shaded and frequently ventilated during the summer.

The sequence of actions for the manufacture of a greenhouse

Components that are required:

A plan for the foundation formwork of a wooden greenhouse.

• cement;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• water;
• reinforcing mesh;
• steel profile pipes;
• racks;
• shovel;
• welding device;
• punch;
• self -tapping screws;
• nuts;
• washers;
• Bolts.

The following steps can be used to conditionally divide the preferentic structure device process:

1. Excavation.
2. The construction of the base.
3. Assembly of the frame structure from steel profile pipes.
4. The device of a single -sloping roof.
5. Installation of internal racks.
6. Installation of the automatic irrigation system.

You must choose the location of the building before beginning any earthwork. The southern wall of a private residence is the ideal choice, as was previously indicated.

The primary components of a greenhouse that can be moved from window frames.

Marking the base and excavating the trench up to the concrete fill are necessary. The ideal trench depth is between 45 and 50 cm. Most of the time, the base’s width is 2.5 meters. The trenches are 20–30 cm wide. Without the need for pricey equipment, you can dig a trench with your hands.

After mounting the formwork, the trench is filled with a two-layer reinforcing mesh that has cells that measure 15 by 15 by 15 centimeters.

Subsequently, a concrete solution is applied up to 10–20 cm above the soil’s surface. At this point, it is advised to concretely fix the support tubes of the greenhouse’s frame structure.

To make concreting tubes easier, score them 12 to 15 centimeters into the ground, attach a plumb line, and then weld to the grid that has been installed.

Two meters is the ideal height for the building’s exterior edge. The support column section should measure 40 by 40 mm, with a 20 by 40 mm end. It is recommended that the end tubes’ wide elements be positioned parallel to the base. Step for installing elements: 60 cm.

How are frame structures put together?

The frame structure can be assembled once the concrete solution has been fully absorbed. You must drill holes with a perforator so that the internal tubes of the frame can be fastened to the building’s wall. The structure should be 2.7 meters tall if the greenhouse is devoid of tall plants. It should be noted that there should be less than 50 centimeters between the greenhouse’s roof and the lower portion of the house’s roof.

The horizontal guide frame from the pipe 40×40 mm is fastened to the wall in a similar manner. The horizontal guide for the external part of the structure’s supports is then welded in place.

The installation of rafters is done at the following step. In this instance, 20×40 mm pipes work well. For the furthest portion of the external guide, components should protrude by about 20 cm.

After cutting the supports beneath the rafters, they should be welded into place.

White paint must be applied to every element in multiple layers using an oil medium. You should be aware that the color white lowers the frame’s heat conductivity. Self-tapping screws will need to be used to secure the polycarbonate in the end.

Building a single-sided greenhouse out of polycarbonate is simple. As long as you have everything ready, the assembly should go off without a hitch.

A capital structure with supporting farms and a glass or other material fence is a single-sided greenhouse. An additional choice is a polyethylene-covered frame structure composed of racks.

"When it comes to roofing, single-sided greenhouses provide an efficient way to maximize natural light while reducing the negative effects on the environment. By concentrating sunlight in one direction, these structures maximize space utilization, minimize the need for artificial lighting, and maximize energy efficiency and plant growth. By being aware of their practical uses and design advantages, homeowners and businesses can choose environmentally friendly roofing options that combine sustainability with practicality."

How to build a premise greenhouse made of polycarbonate

In reality, summer dwellers would rather bring greenhouse structures to the location as independent structures. Sufficient room is needed for such a solution. A greenhouse with a single slotted wall can help the personal plot’s territory make better use of its limited available space. Construct the building yourself, utilizing the blueprints and suggestions provided by our specialists.

Advantages of greenhouses adjacent to the wall.

The benefits of using polycarbonate parliamentary greenhouses for gardening are numerous and often overlooked by summertime dwellers. These comprise the subsequent standards:

• Rational use of the land of the adjacent to the house or economic construction.
• The frame of the structure requires a smaller number of building materials, due to the capital support of the house;
• Stability of the structure. One of the parties necessarily relies on a strong wall;
• The possibility of conducting a greenhouse in a single -sided greenhouse adjacent to the wall of the house, electricity and water supply, without special material costs;
• Decrease in energy consumption for heating with year -round use;
• Quick installation and ease of assembly in the presence of all necessary materials;

The wall-type polycarbonate greenhouse’s lone disadvantage is the tiny amount of useful space set aside for growing vegetables. which lowers the quantity of tall tomato and cucumber varieties farmed. More roomy structures shield the soil from erratic weather phenomena, but it is also possible to prepare seedlings for later planting in the soil in this structure.

Planning and organization of construction.

You must decide on three key issues before erecting a prefabricated single-to-shoe greenhouse at your home:

1. Where the structure will be located;
2. What type will it be;
3. What building materials will be used in its construction.

It is impossible to overlook the small detail of where the future structure will be located. Plants grown in greenhouses, including wallpaper, require a lot of light, so they are located in the garden’s brightest spots. In our instance, it will be a south-facing wall of the home. Thus, vegetables can be given the highest possible light regime during the day.

The wall, which will feature a vegetable building covered in film or polycarbonate. Her plants should not be curly. In a short amount of time, perennial plants next to the wall greenhouse will be able to weave the structure and shade the vegetables from the sun.

The next thing you need to figure out for yourself is what will be the greenhouse next to the wall. Take into consideration the following factors when selecting a construction design:

• The internal space should be highlighted as much as possible;
• The greenhouse should be enough useful area;
• The structure should maintain heat for the long time;
• The presence of natural ventilation;
• Convenience and ease of maintenance.

The majority of these requirements are compatible with ground-level, single-sided greenhouses that are buried next to walls. Maintaining a basic single-tocate roof is simple. The maximum amount of light is missed, and the sun’s rays are distributed evenly. Rainfall can pass through the roofing material without restriction because of the rectilinear structure that is positioned at an angle.

It is simple to include windows in the rafter portion of a parliamentary greenhouse frame, which will serve as natural ventilation. The interior space can be used to its fullest potential thanks to its rectangular shape and pitched roof. One way to lower heating expenses and maintain heat for extended periods of time is to build a greenhouse in a trench.

Lumber is most frequently used to construct the protected soil structure’s frame, which is based on one side of the house wall. These days, it is the most reasonably priced material to construct greenhouses. However, you will need to treat deep penetration antiseptics to keep it safe from mold, fungus, and decay.

The choice of construction option determines which polycarbonate base is best for a parliamentary greenhouse. You’ll need to set up a concrete or brick foundation for the deceased. It will be sufficient to arrange a support from the beam if the structure is intended to be used from spring through autumn. We recently wrote an article on how to accomplish this. We will then go over how to construct a ground frame that can be mounted on any kind of base.

Preparation of materials and tools.

As previously indicated, the best choice in terms of installation ease and cost-effectiveness is the wooden framework that is fastened to the greenhouse’s wall. What our structure will require is:

• A beam with a section of 100x100mm;
• A beam with a section of 50x100mm;
• Door loops 2 pieces;
• Window loops 2 pieces;
• Galvanized or phosphate screws;
• Bolts or studs for tightening the strapping;
• Galvanized corners to strengthen the structure;
• Valves 2 pieces;
• Polycarbonate;
• Thermal -shirts for fastening polymer coating.

The following tools are required to build a greenhouse that is fixed to the wall:

Stages of building a greenhouse adjacent to the wall.

The phase in which the plane’s wall greenhouse’s foundation is removed.

Marking the structure on the plane next to the house will be necessary during the initial stage of wall frame construction. This calls for:

• Clear the surface from everything superfluous;
• Remove the fertile soil layer;
• By means of roulette, fuss and twine, mark the perimeter of the base;
• Dig a trench of the necessary depth to fill the foundation or laying a wooden strain of timber.
• Then it is necessary to prepare a reliable base.

Here, you can learn how to construct a parietal greenhouse’s beam foundation.

The concrete base for a single-shred wall greenhouse must still be prepared before it can be placed atop a wooden beam with a 100x100mm cross section. The lying’s corner compounds are completed in a quarter or a paw. With brackets or studs, you can fasten the bars to one another. Anchor bolts are used to secure the strapping to the concrete tape.

The greenhouse’s front and rear wall assembly stage.

Two walls come together at this point in the construction of our one-sided polycarbonate greenhouse next to the house’s wall: the front and the back. We need a beam with a 50×100 mm cross section in order to accomplish this. From it, it must be made:

• 2 upper royes and 2 lower lying 508 cm long;
• 12 vertical crossbars 152.4 cm high for the front wall;
• 12 vertical crossbars 252 cm high for the posterior, adjacent wall;
• 22 horizontal crossbars 42 cm long (11 per wall);

Every cross used to make the wall portion of the greenhouse frame needs to have its side trimmed by about thirty. It will be the roof’s inclination angle.

We are now gathering a small (front) frame. We have short vertical crossbars between the upper and lower lying. There should be 42 centimeters separating them. We accurately measured the frame’s right angles using the square. These components are fastened together using screws and enhanced corners. Short horizontal crossbars between vertical crossbars increase the stiffness of the design.

In a similar vein, a wall greenhouse’s high back frame gently gathers. The upper ends of the long crossbars must be cut at a 30 degree angle in order to ensure that the greenhouse’s frame is at the correct angle for the roof’s slope, and the upper bed will then be at the same angle.

The phase of rafter system and frame installation.

The greenhouse’s high and low walls are prepared before being installed on strapping made of wooden timber. The southern wall of the house close has the high frame of the frame mounted on it. Use screw connections to secure. To minimize heat loss during operation, mounting foam is poured into every crack. In a similar manner, a small frame is mounted on strapping. A right angle is established using a square or plumb line, and the frame is fastened to the base and the back wall with wooden planks and screws.

You must construct 12 rafters out of 50x100mm bar in order to install the roof. The ends of the rafters must be cut at an angle in order to accurately adjust them to the house wall and the upper lie of the greenhouse’s front frame. This angle should equal 30 Ξ for the end that is next to the wall and 60 Ξ for the opposite end. Subsequently, self-tapping screws are used to fasten the rafters to the upper heads of the frames.

Eleven 42-centimeter cross members are positioned in the center to reinforce the rafters between them. To set up the skate, you will need the same amount of crossbars. Self-tapping screws and improved galvanized corners hold all of the crosses in place.

Stage of side wall assembly.

We must get ready the following components before we can assemble the side walls:

• 2 beams 50x100mm 236 cm long;
• 2 beams 50x100mm 196 cm long;
• 2 beams 50x100mm 69 cm long;
• 2 ugsins 163 cm long;
• 3 crosses of 61 cm;
• 4 cross member of 26 cm.

The sketch that is provided is followed when assembling the wall greenhouse structure’s side faces.

The window and door assembly and installation phase.

Assemble the door’s components:

• 3 transverse timber at 42.5 cm;
• 2 vertical timber 187.3 cm.

In accordance with the sketch, we gather the frame and hang it on the hinges.

To get ready for one window, we

• 2 beams with a section of 50x50mm 34.5 cm;
• 2 beams with a section of 50x50mm 97.2 cm.

Using screws and corners, collect the window in the manner indicated in the sketch. They are fixed on the skate cross’s hinges and placed between the rafters. You can use specialized devices with pushers to automate the ventilation process in a wall greenhouse by raising the windows in response to an increase in interior temperature.

Installing polycarbonate coating.

The final step in building a wall-style greenhouse involves coating it with cellular polycarbonate. This content was not selected at random. Polimer has demonstrated his abilities in cropodes across all regions. It has a long service life, high impact resistance, good thermal insulation, and excellent light transmission characteristics. Furthermore, its application helps create the ideal microclimate for vegetable crops.

A single-to-shut greenhouse needs to be properly cut before covering it with cellular polycarbonate. The positioning of the channels must be considered while cutting. Laying out the earth’s surface horizontally is unacceptable. Every sheet is arranged perpendicular to the ground in channels. This will shield the material from condensation forming in the voids during frosts, which could cause deformation and destruction.

It is necessary to use thermo-haired self-tapping screws and docking profiles to secure polycarbonate to the greenhouse’s frame next to the house wall. Don’t forget to drill holes for thermo-shabes with a 2 mm margin when attaching the roofing material. As a result, sheet deformation during temperature expansion or compression will be prevented.

A polycarbonate greenhouse with a single-to-shut shape is a good substitute for small spaces. the primary phases of creating a wall greenhouse, complete with diagrams and descriptions.

Advantages	Disadvantages
Cost-effective to build and maintain.	Less efficient heat distribution.

Both commercial growers and garden enthusiasts can find cost-effective and space-efficient solutions in single-sided greenhouses. Their design maximizes sunlight exposure while offering a wind and weather barrier, with one wall made of solid material and one wall made of clear material like polycarbonate or glass. By creating a stable environment that supports plant growth, this arrangement lengthens the growing season and increases crop yields.

The cost-effectiveness of single-sided greenhouses in comparison to more intricate constructions is one of their main advantages. Construction and maintenance costs are lowered without sacrificing functionality when there is only one solid wall. This makes them available to small-scale farmers and hobbyists who may not have a lot of resources but still wish to take advantage of the advantages of agriculture in a controlled environment.

Furthermore, the applications for single-sided greenhouses are numerous. They can be suited to a range of environments and uses, such as protecting vulnerable plants from frost in the fall or starting seedlings early in the spring. Their straightforward design makes them ideal for do-it-yourself projects, enabling gardeners to expand and alter their greenhouse area in response to changing needs.

To sum up, single-sided greenhouses are a useful and effective way to prolong the growing season and shield plants from erratic weather. These buildings offer a dependable setting for growing wholesome crops all year round, regardless of your level of experience as a farmer or gardener.

Video on the topic

15/19 Construction of the greenhouse from the foundation to the roof/ Part 3

Unusual greenhouses – vegetarium / how to build it correctly so that it works 100%

The greenhouse is a single -to -shuttle as a "bicycle" is not afraid of snowfalls!