Which side to lay the waterproofing to the insulation

The longevity and effectiveness of your roof greatly depend on your ability to install insulation and waterproofing correctly. Which side of the waterproofing layer should be placed in relation to the insulation is a question that frequently comes up during roof construction or renovation. The choice you make may have a big impact on the roof’s resilience to weather and thermal efficiency.

In a roof assembly, the insulating layer is usually positioned underneath the waterproofing layer. This positioning aids in preventing moisture intrusion into the insulation, which is crucial to preserving its efficacy over time. Any water that seeps through the outer layers of the roof system is kept from reaching the insulation beneath and causing damage by positioning the waterproofing layer above the insulation.

Furthermore, arranging the waterproofing layer over the insulation aids in controlling any moisture buildup inside the roof structure. It serves as a barrier, making sure that water drains away effectively without impairing the insulation’s capacity to control the building’s temperature.

Furthermore, putting the waterproofing layer on top of the insulation creates a stronger seal against future leaks. By minimizing the possibility of water seeping into the building envelope, this arrangement lowers the risk of mold growth and structural damage, both of which can be expensive to repair and have a negative impact on indoor air quality.

While it’s generally advised to install the waterproofing layer over the insulation, different roofing designs and materials may call for different placements. Seeking advice from a qualified roofer or building engineer can offer specific recommendations based on the special features of your roof and environmental factors.

Side of Waterproofing Insulation Placement
Outside (Exterior side) Between the waterproofing and the insulation
Inside (Interior side) Between the insulation and the interior finish

We figure out which side to put vapor barrier on various surfaces

The insulation will not last as long if there is no vapor barrier. The material will gradually deteriorate as moisture seeps through its layers. This feature is especially important during the winter months when there is a noticeable temperature difference between indoor and outdoor spaces.

Because of this, a lot of steam builds up inside the house and needs to escape unhindered. To properly install materials that prevent moisture buildup, you must be aware of which side to place the vapor barrier.

Preparatory work on laying vapor barrier

Vapor barrier will improve the building’s operational capacity.

The selection of the material to be used in the vapor barrier must be made during the preparatory work.

Currently, there are a number of options available on the market for moisture-resistant materials that can be used for work on walls, ceilings, floors, and even under roofs:

  • When installing vapor barrier on wooden structures: ceiling, walls or floor, it is preferable to use films with a membrane intended for such cases.
  • For floors from any material – mastic based on polymers and bitumen.
  • For ceilings, various surfaces of walls and floors, universal Isospan is suitable, it perfectly isolates the structures from moisture and accumulation of condensate.
  • For concrete or wooden walls, foil, polystyrene foam, as well as megaizol is suitable.

Vapor barriers are ineffective when surfaces are not properly prepared. The scope of preliminary work varies depending on the particular material used to build the house, the walls, floor, and ceiling, and whether major repairs are needed for a dilapidated building or if a new building is to be constructed.

Various options for surface preparation based on the material:

  • If a wooden house is being built from scratch, then it is first that you need to soak all parts of the building with special means against insects, this is important for the draft floor, ceiling and walls. It is also worth using impregnations against fungi, mold and fires. When these works are completed, you can do vapor barrier.
  • During major repairs, the dismantling of obsolete coatings on the floor, all layers of isolation is carried out. All surfaces are cleaned, impregnated with means, and only then a layer of material protecting from moisture is placed.

For concrete buildings, cleaning the walls, floor, and ceiling is sufficient; separate surface treatment with specific substances is not necessary.

In wooden buildings, vapor barriers help prevent the growth of mold, fungus, and decay. Installation doesn’t require a lot of skill; just proper surface preparation and a few job-specific nuances will do.

We put vapor barrier on the ceiling

The question of which side to place the vapor barrier on the ceiling and how to lay it correctly frequently comes up during operation.

First things first, the front and wrong sides of the vapor barrier must be identified. Vapor barriers typically have both rough and smooth sides. The more uneven surface always faces the insulating layer from the outside, smoothing out.

If you’re still unsure, take a tiny piece of material and place a mug of hot water over it. The side that stays waterproof will see condensation accumulate there.

Guidelines for installing vapor barriers on ceilings

Prior to beginning work on the vapor barrier, all irregularities measuring no more than 5 mm must be cleaned, followed by a dust and dirt removal step, priming, and drying.

The material’s characteristics determine how it is laid; in most cases, vapor barriers are installed in rooms exactly on the inside of the ceiling.

The vapor barrier should be installed both inside and outside if the climate is such that low temperatures can occur during the winter and the walls are not overly thick.

  • Vapor barrier material is usually attached to the surface with a taper.
  • Special attention should be paid to the corners, the material should slightly overlap the walls around the perimeter of the ceiling.
  • The material should be whole, the use of several pieces is not allowed. It is important that the edge of the canvas overlap the corner.
  • When laying a vapor barrier film, its surface should be stretched as much as possible. It is placed only after a layer of insulation has already been laid.
  • The film, which is laid between the beams of the ceiling overlap, is attached using nails with a special wide hat, a distance of about 30 cm should be observed between them.
  • Connection of the paintings on the ceiling must be carried out on each other. The joints are hermetically sealing with adhesive tape.

Vapor barrier film can be fixed using plastic or wood planks that are screwed to the ceiling if it is occasionally applied to the ceiling without an insulating layer. The distance between the fastening points should not exceed 30 cm, and there should be a minimal step between each rail.

It is not required to attach the vapor barrier separately when the insulating material is placed on top of it. can be resolved one step at a time.

Fastening of various types of vapor barrier to the ceiling

It is more practical to isolate the ceiling together.

Thermal and sheet steam insulation installation calls for a unique methodology.

Install a unique frame from profiles first.

Wooden bars or specialized aluminum rails can be used. Working with the latter is considerably simpler because they are made specifically for these uses.

The sheets are fixed in unique grooves that they provide. You must undoubtedly capture a little portion of the wall in order to remove the gaps between the ceiling and walls.

Numerous vapor barriers are available made of roofing material; this kind of work is referred to as bog work. This material is put down on the floor’s prepared surface. Mastic or heated bitumen are applied without passes during pasting.

If the ceiling or corners have joints, you must begin the material with a smallwaging and secure it with nails using a large hat on a designated rail. Beneath the insulation, the material’s edges are bent.

The most common materials used when painting a vapor barrier on a ceiling are bitumen-typical mastic, varnish, or hot bitumen. Polyvinyl chloride or chloride should be the basis for the varnish’s creation. Using a specialized sprayer, mastic is applied in a layer.

There are two layers of varnish coating, and the first layer must definitely dry before applying the second.

Features of laying vapor barrier to insulation

It is crucial to take into account which side of the insulation should have the vapor barrier when performing any work. This is the point where you can make a mistake and thermal insulation will not work.

There is a single rule that applies to all materials of the film type: the film must be positioned so that the rough parts are inside the room and the smooth surface faces the insulation.

This rule works well to prevent moisture damage to the walls, ceiling, and flooring—but only if the material is composed of two layers. The shiny side of the vapor barrier must be facing inward and rough against the wall when operating with the aluminum side.

The rough side of polypropylene material should be turned toward the room and smoothed toward the insulation when using it. High-quality vapor barriers typically come with a styling manual and instructions.

Installation of vapor barrier on the floor

Vapor barrier materials can only be placed on the base that has been prepared. Isospan use will be the best option for this kind of work. Additionally, you’ll need an adhesive tape meant for this kind of use and a construction stapler:

  • If the film is two -layer, then its first layer is laid directly on a wooden or concrete floor.
  • The material should be adjusted with a climb of about 5-10 cm on the walls, and fixed with a special tape.
  • In places where the film is glued from two paintings, it is necessary to additionally fasten the layers with a stapler. When laying, a single canvas should be obtained, without defects. It should completely cover the floor area.
  • Any material for insulation is placed on top of vapor barrier: mineral wool, foam, polystyrene foam and others. After the thermal insulation layer, it is necessary to put the second layer of the material to protect against moisture.
  • Vapor barrier is placed with a smooth surface to the insulation.
  • In the first layer, the rough side is facing the base of the floor, and in the second – to the room.
  • After properly laid materials, the main floor is mounted.

Film with a foil side is applied when using it. You must use a specific type of adhesive tape with an aluminum surface in order to secure the canvases.

All of the heat will be reflected from a layer that has a metallic brilliance and returned to the house.

Special rubber is sometimes used on floors as a vapor barrier while it’s liquid. First, the black floor needs to be prepared; dirt and moisture should be removed from its surface.

Next, use rollers or brushes to apply mastic. The impregnation eventually dries and solidifies into a thick layer that precisely replicates the floor’s texture.

Types of vapor barrier

The smooth side of the vapor barrier is where the insulation is placed.

Making the right material selection is a crucial step in performing thermal insulation work.

Using roofing material or pragmine was the most common method of protecting against humidity not too long ago.

The market is overflowing with options these days, and technology has advanced significantly. You can purchase contemporary mixed materials that stand out for their dependability and durability:

  • Film – an excellent barrier for steam, prevents condensate from forming on the walls, roof and insulation itself.
  • Film with a layer of aluminum foil. The metal surface has the ability to reflect heat and has excellent vapor barrier properties. It makes sense to use this type of material in wet rooms: bathrooms, pools, saunas and baths.
  • Membrane film – has a limited ability to pass steam. Depending on its condition, it can change its properties. With an increase in humidity, the film begins to pass steam, in a dry state this property is much lower.
  • Bitumen -based mastic – passes air and delays moisture.

Vapor barrier materials can also be made into rolls and sheets. based on how the installation is done.

It is recommended to roll up materials in rolls starting from the bottom and working your way up. Horizontal wooden rails or profiles are used to secure the canvas.

The ventilation hole, which should be at least 4 cm in diameter, is left between the interior finish and the layer of vapor protection. A robust fastening is required.

The material is put into the vapor barrier in the sheets starting from the bottom and working its way up in a pre-assembled frame made from the profile.

Features of vapor barrier

Materials with vapor barriers are required for the room’s normal moisture cycle. The film contains a unique membrane that prevents insulation from becoming too humid. Consequently, when applying the layer, it is crucial to pay attention to the following conditions:

  • If a membrane is used with the property of wind and waterproofing, then it should be closely contacted with the insulation. If there are gaps, then the material will cool to a temperature that will be lower than that of the displayed steam. Then the membrane film can be covered with a thin layer of ice and stop being effective.
  • It is necessary to provide a gap for a couple of steam at least 40-50 mm. But the size can vary depending on climatic conditions. It is especially important to observe a balance for large roofs or with a blunt angle of ramp, which is worse than air circulation.
  • The amount of pair passing through the system should be minimal.

One crucial role of vapor barrier is to keep moisture off the insulation layer. Not only that, but the membrane will also act as a barrier to keep out single fibers and volatile substances that could be harmful to health when used in the homes of silicate or polystyrene materials that retain heat.

The house maintains a comfortable temperature because air does not enter through the gaps and cracks in the structures.

Recommendations for the correct laying of vapor barrier materials

Determining the most important areas that require special attention is the first step in planning the vapor barrier installation. Where the surface becomes the border where warm and cold air meet, moisture-resistant material needs to be laid down.

These spaces are typically found in basements, floors, roofs, attics, and walls. When working on vapor barriers, separate attention must be paid to the wood’s structure:

  • The layer protecting the moisture from the flow of moisture should be laid with the smooth side to insulating materials, in this case there will be no steam supply, rot or fungus will not form, heat will not be lost. This is especially important for wood buildings.
  • If the walls are insulated outside, then vapor barrier is placed outside the room. With the internal installation of thermal materials, a layer of a film enclosed from moisture should also be on this side.
  • The most common mistake is a loose fit of the film to the insulation.
  • When gluing the seams of vapor barriers, it is necessary to use a wide tape at least 10 cm.
  • When they carry out work in places of window openings, they often forget to leave a small supply of film, which is needed in case of deformation or shrinkage. It should be a fold of 2-3 cm in size.
  • The film should be protected from exposure to sunlight, in just one season an open surface may become unusable.
  • To connect the joints of the film with the foil surface, you need to use metallized tape.

While working with vapor barriers doesn’t require a lot of skills, there are still a lot of subtleties to consider. Installing the film on the proper side of the insulation is the primary requirement for proper film laying. Generally, it is not hard to find the inside of the material.

The insulation will not last as long if there is no vapor barrier. The material will gradually deteriorate as moisture seeps through its layers. In particular, this property is pertinent to Foxremont.Com.

Which side to lay waterproofing to protect the insulation?

When arranging a floor, the most important component of this event is the creation of a reliable steam protection of the floor structure, in general, and the heat insulator used in it, in particular. This must be dictated by the following: during the operation of the floor structure, steam penetrates into the underground space, and it can do it both from above, through the material of the floor, and from the bottom, through the floor overlapping. Given the difference in temperature in the room and the inter -story span, the steam eventually turns into drops of moisture, which settled on the back of the flooring or heat -insulating material, leading to their destruction and creating conditions for the development of various microorganisms. So the arrangement of high -quality vapor barrier allows you to prevent this, but only if you correctly decide which side to lay the waterproofing so that it passes steam, but does not allow moisture contact with the flooring.

Types of materials

Aluminum foil, or the second kind of film, is used to laminate it. Their primary benefit is that they can reflect thermal energy in addition to acting as a barrier against steam. This implies that there is no particular requirement to be created, and consequently, the thermal insulation layer is not protected. Foil films are therefore used in the floor structures of spaces with high air temperatures and humidity, such as saunas, bathrooms, pools, and even kitchens.

When it comes to durability, polypropylene film outperforms polyethylene film. Such a film may occasionally be "equipped" with an anti-condensate layer, which lowers the material’s vapor permeability and eliminates the chance of condensation on the film’s inner surface. Any side of the insulation can have such a film applied to it, but if there isn’t an anti-condensate layer, condensation might form on the side closest to the insulation.

Correctly put the film on the insulation

So which side to lay the waterproofing to the insulation? If you use a film, one side of which will be smooth, and the second will be rough, then we put the smooth side on the insulation, and the rough upward towards the flooring. In this case, the steam will not penetrate to the insulation, but it will remain at the top, and in the presence of effective ventilation of the underground space, it will quickly evaporate. If you use foil films, then the styling performs the aluminum side up. She will also not let steam pass and will reflect thermal energy. If you used the polypropylene film, then we lay it with the laminated side down, and weaved upward.

There are, however, some exceptions. For instance, which side of the insulation is laid when using a material like ISO specific waterproofing? As an example, we place the rough side on the insulation and the smooth side upward, toward the flooring. The opposite is the opposite. In this regard, we advise that you always pay close attention to reading the manufacturer’s instructions, even after you’ve finished reading this content.

Remember that the primary goal of the aforementioned films is to prevent steam from penetrating the insulation. This implies that they must be installed between the insulation and the finished floor. However, keep in mind that steam can enter a space from below through uneven flooring or between stories of ceilings. For this reason, the lower layer of vapor protection—which is where the insulation is laid—will be extremely important. The latter choice is particularly pertinent when discussing the ground floors of wooden homes that are situated above unfinished basements or below ground level.

Film laying on a black floor

The laying of a vapor barrier film on the plank black floor is as follows. First, clean the floor of debris and dust, after which we unfold the film roll so that its strip was overlapping to a wall to a height of 15-20 cm. Just like this, unfold and cut the second strip and fasten it with the first using a mounting tape or tape. Next, we fix the film on the lags using galvanized nails or stapler. After that, lay a heater on the film, the thickness of the layer of which should be at least 50 mm. Thermal insulation material should fit tightly to the waterproofing film. After that, we cover the insulation with a second layer of film, similarly to how we laid it on the draft floor. Well, the last step – we lay the final flooring, not forgetting to create a small ventilation gap between it and a steam -protective film.

Additional nuances

Before laying a waterproofing film on a black floor, take care of protecting wood or moisture screed. For this, processing the base of coating or plastering waterproofing is quite acceptable, for which it is necessary to use the corresponding compositions. It is recommended to make several layers of waterproofing at once, and each subsequent layer is applied after partial drying of the previous one, which on average requires 3-4 hours. It is not necessary to wait for the waterproofing layer to dry complete.To. This can lead to the fact that the next layer will not be able to stick together with the previous. But it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier film after the last layer completely dry.

Which side should waterproofing be applied to prevent condensation on the floor structure’s heat-insulating layer? The choice of response relies on the kind of ceiling and

How to properly lay waterproofing for the floor and not only

The significance of the vapor barrier stage of building a house or other structure cannot be overstated. This word describes a range of techniques and tools intended to completely eliminate or drastically minimize moisture—in the form of condensate—inside the building materials. The instructions or tips below will assist in determining which side of the vapor barrier should be laid.

Insulation is most susceptible to moisture damage. The majority of contemporary heaters have structural changes brought on by moisture, which causes their thermal insulation qualities to diminish or vanish. That being said, condensate penetration is by no means the only threat. Fungal organisms, or mold—which is totally unnecessary there—begin to actively develop in a humid, enclosed environment. They have a detrimental effect on supporting structures’ dependability and longevity, particularly wooden ones.

Material options for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier coatings are widely available in the contemporary building materials market. They are separated into numerous categories, chief among them being vapor permeability, which is essential for choosing the location of insulation installation. When selecting a material, one should also consider the wide range of prices associated with vapor barrier materials.

There are three primary types of vapor barriers:

  1. Traditional vapor barrier film;
  2. Film with a layer of aluminum foil;
  3. Membrane film.

Unfortunately, there is no material that is equally suitable for any part of the vapor barrier, including the foundation, walls, ceilings, or roof. As a result, it is crucial to consider the coating area, the insulation’s purpose, and the structure of the covered materials. The instruction will specify which material to use for each of these factors.

Furthermore, consideration must be given to the characteristics of each kind of vapor barrier. In order to prevent condensation in a closed structure without air access, a polyethylene vapor barrier should be installed with gaps appropriately left between the film’s airtightness and insulation against steam.

Features of membranes

Members are further separated into diffusion, superdiffusion, and pseudo-diffuseum. Vapor permeability coefficients, which range from 300 g/m2 to more than 1000 g/m2, are different for each of them. The membranes’ suitability for isolating particular structures is assessed based on this attribute. Pseudiffusiones work best as a vapor barrier for the outer layer beneath the roof because they essentially cannot pass moisture. But between the film and the insulation, you need an air cushion. Furthermore, these films are totally inappropriate for insulating facades. Outside dust clogs the membrane’s pores, causing condensation to stay directly on the material.

Because their pores have a greater diameter, the remaining species are more widely distributed. This makes them harder to clog and prevents you from leaving spaces for air to pass through.

The correct location of the material

The choice of which side to lay the vapor barrier on is crucial to getting adequate insulation for buildings. The choice of vapor barrier material also affects the response to this query:

  1. The vapor barrier plastic film is laid by any side to the insulation, but there are special steam -condensate films with roughnesses, for better evaporation of condensate. In this case, the film is placed by the smooth side to the insulation. Such details, as a rule, determines the attached instruction.
  2. Laying vapor barrier from the diffusion membrane by analogy with a steam -condensate film is carried out by the smooth side to the insulation.
  3. Materials containing energy -saving foil correctly attach the foil side inside the room, because it reflects heat.

Several general tips

It is crucial to take into account the following attributes:

  1. Vapor barrier material, whether it is rolled or leaf, is only laid down, and are fastened with special tape, excluding the passage of air in the lumen.
  2. In no case are damage (breakthroughs, cuts) of insulating material, even if they formed in the process or after installation, they must be sealed.

DIY vapor barrier

The process of creating the room’s vapor barrier can be finished entirely by hand. It will be dependable even without the assistance of skilled builders if you follow the aforementioned guidelines, accurately identify which side is the insulation, and select the appropriate material.

Using your hands to create a vapor barrier on the floor will be the most revealing tool. It is strongly advised to treat underground structures with compounds that prevent wood decay and insect infestation before beginning the installation of insulation and vapor barrier. This kind of processing is especially crucial for buildings that are closest to the earth and foundation. Subsequently, the lags are put in place, and the first floor’s black ceiling is mounted over them. He is the one who will serve as the foundation for the floor’s vapor barrier.

The selected vapor barrier is placed with a 15–20 centimeter overlap on top of the black floor. Nails or construction staplers can be used to fix it, but the most accurately mentioned adhesive tape will work best. Accessible areas, those next to walls, and ceiling relief areas require extra bitumen material processing because it is nearly impossible to normally lay film in these locations. Thermal insulation starts to lay after the vapor barrier has been laid. It’s crucial to place these materials—mineral wool, polystyrene foam, among others—close to the lags.

Steaming the floor doesn’t stop here. From the first floor, moisture can enter the insulation and enter the house from the interior. In light of this, you must apply an additional layer of vapor barrier during warming, analogous to the lower layer. Any kind of membrane isolation is best suited for this purpose. This layer is likewise applied in layers. You can place the main floor on top of it with confidence. In this instance, you must allow a space of 1-2 centimeters.


A trustworthy vapor barrier for the floor can be guaranteed with the right selection of the party that feeds the insulation and the skillful selection of vapor barrier material. She is also a significant factor in the general dependability and longevity of buildings.

When building any structure, it is important to consider important features when laying the vapor and hydraulic barriers. Failure to do so at these stages could have unfortunate results when the house is operating.

Preventing moisture penetration is a crucial consideration when deciding whether to install waterproofing on a roof above or below insulation. It is more effective to place waterproofing above insulation because it forms a barrier that keeps moisture and rain out of the insulation. On the other hand, placing waterproofing below insulation helps prevent condensation from growing inside the insulation, maintaining the insulation’s thermal integrity. In the end, the decision is based on building design, local climate conditions, and the intended functionality of the insulation and waterproofing materials. Finding the ideal balance guarantees a long-lasting and energy-saving roofing system.

Which side to lay a waterproofing film

During building or renovation, one of the trickiest and most important parts is making sure the structure is properly protected from water.

If the waterproofing material is not the right kind, the homeowners will see an ugly sight in the shape of this after six months:

  • increased humidity;
  • wetting the insulation, which very soon collapse from such an impact;
  • poorly maintaining heat inside the house due to the wet insulation layer.

It is crucial to first install waterproofing correctly—that is, on the side advised by the manufacturer—in order to prevent the aforementioned issues. The question of which side to apply waterproofing to various building materials and in various building sections will be addressed below.

Under the metal tile

The waterproofing film is laid upward and horizontally, with a 15 cm overlap, from the skate to the cornice beneath the layer of metal tiles. Only lags or rafters require the film to be fixed with a stapler. It is crucial to keep in mind that the film sag needs to be beneath a 2 cm thick layer of metal tile. It will facilitate unrestricted airflow and shield the movie from deterioration too soon.

Applying a layer of moisture protection to the floor while waterproofing it in areas like the kitchen and bathroom demands the utmost precision. In this instance, the waterproofing film is fastened to the insulation by its unmarked side.

The installation of insulation marks the start of the roof’s waterproofing process. Then, an even layer of waterproofing film is slowly smearing into the joint. The adhesive layer is facing the insulation as the film is positioned upwards. In order to ensure proper air circulation between the materials, the ventilation gap must be considered.

The film is affixed to the insulation’s unmarked surface, which is the logo, in order to waterproof the walls within the house.

The insulation is labeled up and a waterproofing film is applied to the exterior walls. A construction stapler with a 15-20 cm overlap is used to secure the film.

On the ceiling

Waterproofing films are applied to the ceiling or insulation layer on the unmarked side.

A long-term insulation service is guaranteed with proper wallpaper waterproofing. Keep this in mind and follow the advice provided by the waterproofing film manufacturer when doing construction or repairs.

One of the trickiest and most important aspects of building or repairing a structure is deciding which side to apply the waterproofing film on to ensure adequate water protection. If the material for waterproofing

It’s important to take into account the function of each layer when choosing which side of your roof to install waterproofing on in relation to insulation. By acting as a barrier, waterproofing keeps moisture out of the building’s structure. By positioning it outside the insulation, you can make sure that any water that finds its way into the roof’s outer layers is repelled before it can reach the insulation. By keeping the insulation dry and protected from potential water infiltration damage, this helps preserve its efficacy and lifespan.

Conversely, insulation lowers heat gain or loss through the roof, which helps to control the temperature inside the building. Its interior is kept at a constant temperature and thermal bridging is reduced when insulation is placed on the inside. This configuration also aids in preventing condensation from growing inside the roof structure, which over time may result in the growth of mold and other structural problems.

Placing the waterproofing layer on the outermost side of the insulation is ultimately the best practice. This arrangement improves the roof system’s overall performance while simultaneously safeguarding the insulation. It ensures that the insulation successfully retains its thermal resistance qualities while constructing a strong defense against weather-related factors. Knowing the functions of insulation and waterproofing as well as how they work together will help you make decisions for your building that will increase its comfort, durability, and energy efficiency.

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Alexander Sorokin

The owner of the roofing company, an expert in the roofing markets. I'll tell you about the novelties of the roofing industry and help you choose the best option for your home.

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