DIY assard insulation: how to choose the best insulation

One of the best methods to increase your home’s energy efficiency is to insulate your attic. Enough attic insulation not only keeps your house warmer in the summer and keeps heat loss at bay in the winter, but it also reduces energy costs. Many homeowners find that installing attic insulation on their own is a worthwhile and economical project.

To get the best results, selecting the appropriate insulation material is essential. Your choice will be influenced by elements like your attic space type, budget, and climate. Knowing the various types of insulation that are available, such as spray foam, cellulose, and fiberglass, can help you make an informed decision that best meets your needs.

It’s crucial to evaluate your attic’s current state and note any areas that might require maintenance or extra planning before you begin. Creating an effective and long-lasting insulation system also requires carefully sealing air leaks and making sure there is enough ventilation.

This tutorial will help you complete DIY attic insulation, from material selection to step-by-step installation methods. You can successfully improve your home’s energy efficiency and comfort with DIY attic insulation if you have the right knowledge and take careful planning.

Factors to Consider Features to Look For
1. Thermal Efficiency High R-value for better insulation
2. Installation Ease DIY-friendly materials with clear instructions
3. Durability Resistant to moisture and pests
4. Cost-effectiveness Affordable initial and long-term costs

DIY attic insulation

An exposed roof is the primary source of heat loss in a rural home. Up to 30% of the total heat produced by the heating system is lost during the cold season. Conversely, during the year’s warmest months, a subcutaneous area functions as an actual oven. As a result, attic insulation ought to be viewed as an essential step toward improving a country home’s comfort. Furthermore, a well-insulated undercarbon space will generate income each year in the form of reduced heating expenses, making this a wise capital investment.

Materials for insulation of attic

The demand for insulating materials was taken into consideration when determining the necessity of this event, and the market currently produces the widest variety of types.

Mineral wool

This type of material has been around for a while and is among the most widely used heaters. Minvata is composed of several materials, including basalt, glass, slag, and stone, all of which have unique properties but are roughly comparable in terms of technology. Along the fiber’s length, each of them has unique properties, including bearing capacity, heat resistance, hygroscopicity, and fire hazard.

Stone cotton wool

The following are the material’s primary qualities:

  1. The length of the fibers is up to 16 millimeters with a thickness of 3 to 2 microns. The main properties of such insulation are the most suitable for the device for insulation of attic rooms.
  2. The thermal conductivity of the stone wool is 0.076–0.12 W/x O C.
  3. The maximum heating temperature is 560-600 degrees.
  4. The physical properties of stone cotton wool allow you to work with it without the use of special means of skin and respiratory organs. Its fibers are not chilled and do not cause damage to the skin or mucous membranes.

Basalt insulation is one of the types of stone cotton wool. Since the connecting parts are not used in its production, it cannot be made into rolls or plates. It serves as a bulk substance. The ideal thickness of the insulation layer is achieved by compacting it. Because cotton wool doesn’t contain fuster components, it can tolerate temperatures as high as 940 degrees. The thermal conductivity and the physical dimensions of the fibers match the stone wool indicators. Working with this variety of insulation is known to be the safest.

These mineral heaters have exceptional soundproofing qualities, particularly basalt wool. It is also completely safe for human consumption because it doesn’t contain any phenol-formaldehyde resins.

Glass cotton wool

One of the earliest examples of mineral insulation is glass wool. It has very good insulating qualities:

  • The length of the fibers of the glass wool is from 13 to 35 millimeters with a thickness of 4 to 16 microns;
  • It has low thermal conductivity in the range of 0.03–0.049 W/x O C;
  • The temperature limits of use are from +450 to -60 degrees.

This insulation is the least expensive option, but it has one unfavorable feature: its fibers are extremely sharp and can seriously injure a person’s skin and mucous membranes. Consequently, you must wear personal protective equipment when handling it:

  • closed clothes made of dense fabric;
  • protective glasses;
  • respirator;
  • closed shoes;
  • gloves or mittens of dense fabric.


The fibers’ thickness and length serve as the same indicators of this insulation as the corresponding properties of stone wool. However, the melting point of fibers is 350 degrees; above this point, the fibers melt, click, and lose their properties. Slag cannot be used in contact with metal surfaces because of the impact that the raw materials used in production have on the final product’s properties. At the same time, the metal corrodes and destroys quickly. In addition,

  1. This material is characterized by high hygroscopicity, which determines its use only for use inside the house, and even then, in conjunction with a reliable hydro and vapor barrier.
  2. With high -quality waterproofing, thermal conductive properties are slags are in the range of 0.047-0.049 W/x O C, which is quite suitable for insulation of the attic.
  3. The mechanical properties of the fibers of this material are similar to that of glass wool, therefore, the rules of safe performance of work are similar.

Mineral wools are regarded as nearly fireproof insulation materials. Certain types can catch fire when exposed to flames, but they extinguish fast. When organic binding additives are added to the material, this is made possible.

In spite of this, mineral wool insulation works best in the attic. The material’s comparatively low cost also helps with this.

Ecological cotton wool

Since cellulose is used to make this type of heater—which has no additives—it is entirely safe for the environment. Its insulating qualities are comparable to those of pure wood indicators. However, a variety of fillers have just been used.

  1. Addresses during the production of ecovatas can serve antipypees that make it difficult to burn up to 12% in volume, as well as an non -volatile antiseptic drug in the form of boric acid – 8%. Otherwise, the insulating layer would be a landfill for lichens and parasites.
  2. The impossibility of living in rodent insulation is determined not only thanks to the mentioned additives, but also due to the loose-porous structure of the material.
  3. Due to the presence of antipyrene, the insulation can light up under the influence of a directed flame flow (burner), but quickly fades when it stops its action.
  4. The use of such insulation for insulation of walls eliminates the need to use moisture retrofitting membranes, since the material itself is “breathing”, capable of rapidly drying. With high internal humidity, the heat -shielding properties of the insulation are not lost.
  5. One of the significant advantages of the ecowine is its low cost. But no less significant drawback is the need to use special equipment when applying to any surface.

This will be the best course of action if it is possible to use the attic for the attic.

Poliuretan foam

In addition to attics, polyurethane foam is frequently used to warm walls. Spraying is the method used to apply this material to the surface. With the aid of this technology, it is possible to build an entirely impenetrable insulation layer devoid of cold bridges. With confidence, polyurethane foam can be deemed the best material for attic insulation when taking into account the operational characteristics of different insulators. In which case:

  1. Small specific gravity allows you to apply a layer of the required thickness on the walls without a significant weighting of the structure of the upper structure.
  2. Poliuretan foam is stable in the temperature range from -160 to +215 degrees.
  3. It is also important that the need for the preparation of surfaces for applying this insulation.
  4. The material can effectively fulfill its purpose for at least 50 years if it is closed by finishing finishing coatings.
  5. With normally working ventilation, the formation of condensate is completely excluded.

But polyurethane foam has drawbacks in addition to its amazing building qualities:

  1. Without the use of complex construction equipment, the application of this composition is impossible.
  2. This insulation is not considered fireproof. When he ignited, a number of very poisonous substances are formed that are extremely dangerous to humans, in particular – cyanide hydrogen. Attempts to introduce antipyrene leads to an increase in the temperature of the fire, but if it is burning, then in this case the number of toxic components increases. By the degree of danger, it is close to polystyrene foam.


The primary component of this type of heater is polystyrene. It is foamed during the production process and given tiny, air-filled balls. These balls are produced by extrusion, and the result is plates with different thicknesses and formats.

The following are some advantages of using foam:

  1. In terms of price indicators, such insulation is the cheapest. When recalling the Cubeter of the polystyrene foam costs 2.5 thousand rubles per cubic meter, and the same amount of mineral wool will cost 4-5 thousand rubles.
  2. The material in the slabs is easily cut with a knife, especially if it is heated. To create a reliable heat -insulating layer, a thickness of 50-100 millimeters is enough. At the same time, it is preferable to lay it with two layers with the floor of the joints.
  3. Foam practically does not absorb moisture, which is checked by the complete immersion of the sample into water. Moreover, the amount of absorbed water did not exceed 1%. Hydrophobism has a positive effect on the life of the material, since mold or rot is not formed on its surface.

The material has the following drawbacks:

  1. Attractiveness for rodents, which with pleasure bite him and live in dug burns.
  2. This material is not fireproof.

Natural materials

These heaters are going through a true renaissance right now. Several elements play a role in this:

  1. High environmental friendliness of the material.
  2. Universality in application.
  3. Low cost.
  4. Minor thermal conductivity.
  5. Durability.

Furthermore, this is by no means an exhaustive list of the benefits inherent in natural materials. Think about a few of their varieties:

  1. Flax fibers. Traditionally they were used to seal the cracks between logs in the walls of the house. Now from short -term types of this material is pressed by plates with a thickness of 50-100 millimeters for insulation and sound insulation. A felt of flax fibers is also used. The service life of such material can reach 70 years. In its production, antipypees are actively used.
  2. Hemp. Warming products from this material in Russia are not produced for well -known reasons. The main supplier in our hemp market is Germany. They are used in construction similarly to linen products and have approximately the same qualities.
  3. Corps from peat. The technology of their production is to dilute peat with water with sifting, after which wood waste (sawdust, chips) are added to the mass, blocks are formed and dried are dried. Due to the antiseptic properties of peat, bacteria, fungi and mold do not develop in them, and the porous structure does not allow condensate to deposit. The thermal conductivity of peat blocks is three times less than in whole wood. Due to the high strength characteristics, the blocks tolerate transportation well. This property allows you to use peat blocks for the construction of walls of frame knowledge and internal partitions. The durability of such buildings reaches 70 years.
  4. Sheep"s wool. The material is composed of new wool with the addition of a significant number of processing products. Produced in canvases with a thickness of 20-120 millimeters. With increased humidity, it is able to absorb up to a third of moisture in volume, then giving it back. Thus, the woolen mate itself is a regulator of humidity in the room and when it is used, the need for a membrane disappears. Fastening to the wooden details of the frame is performed by building staplers. In the production of woolen mats, substances that repel insects are used. Antipires are used only in imported materials, Russian manufacturers do not use it, which increases the environmental friendliness of their products.
  5. Bird -fiber slabs. They are made from woodworking waste in the form of plates. The material is muffle, elastic, easily processed by a carpentry tool. Serves good heat and sound insulator. Is a good finishing material. Wood fiber is not prone to change in structure and shape, absorbs well and gives moisture.
  6. Cork. For Russian conditions, the material is somewhat exotic, since it is made from a cork oak bark common in Portugal. It is crushed, washed, then steam processing and pressing in briquettes should be. Plugs from traffic jams have small weight, easily processed. Suitable for internal and outdoor decoration. Have low thermal conductivity and good sound absorption.
  7. Damask. The starting raw materials for the production of plates are a zoster algae thrown to the Black Sea. Kamka is a good heat insulator, retains the properties when getting wet and is not subject to decay. Saturated with sea salts, acts as a healing factor in the room where it is used. In the mass of the material there is a biologically active component, a focontak polysaccharide, which has an antitumor effect.

The consumer’s financial situation and the selection of materials available in the neighborhood market determine which ones are chosen.

The fundamentals of selecting the best insulation for your house are broken down in our guide to do-it-yourself attic insulation. We guide you through the choices, from comprehending R-values to contrasting materials like fiberglass, cellulose, and spray foam. Discover useful installation and upkeep advice to keep your attic comfortable and energy-efficient all year long. Whether you’re upgrading or taking on insulation for the first time, our post makes the process easier so you can decide on options that suit your needs and budget."

Consumer reviews

Selecting a heater will be aided by feedback from customers who have previously used this or that material.

Polystyrene foam (or foam) is not the best material to insulate an attic; this isn’t even because it won’t breathe; rather, the combination class of this material works best for filling or foundational insulation. While basalt insulation (rock or steamy) is unquestionably superior, if you’re in a hurry and want to save money, you can also use fiberglass insulation like Urs, Knauf, or Isover. Nikopolspb /Threads/152214/ at

The foam has, oddly enough, vapor permeation is like a tree. That is, breathes like a tree. Burning current. There are imported bustling foams, but are expensive. If you use mineral wool, then only dense hard plates. Density of 50–70 kg/cube. The thickness of the insulation is at least 20 cm. The attic is resident. On the warm side of vapor barrier, a layer of mineral wool, then a vapor permeable membrane-light protection. Minvaty Rolled (Izover, Ursa, etc.) is impossible to warm the walls and attic, they settled. And their heat resistance is generally worthless. These heater only to insulate hot pipes use. So the vapor barrier films are foaming foam and the air from them is no less bad. Film is evil, but without them minvata is a dummy. Yes, and thermal resistance of many minvates with a density of up to 50 kg / cube is mildly exaggerated. In general, the order of the Moscow government on the ban on the use of water-protective films in the ventilation facades was issued.

I would suggest combining foam (10 mm) with 20 mm of polystyrene foam (which is the same as foam). A pillow like that will hold enough. However, when condensate is withdrawn from the attic during warming, the question of whether the roof is cold emerges. Gainov Fagimovich Ramil 8218 The forum at

Before advising the insulation of the attic, it is necessary to study the supporting structure of the roof, as the rafters, braces, screeding, etc.D., Is there a step -by -step crate and counter crate. It is required to arrange channels for external ventilation of the roof and removing condensate. Otherwise, lumber will begin to rot. Depending on the materials of the roof and the height of the section of the rafters, it is necessary to choose a way of insulation. If the design of the roof and the height of the rafters allows, it is better to lay the mining minimum of the N-200 mm (for non-nuclear experts, I decipher the mineral basalt-basalt of the Sokr Min-Wat), with the required membranes under one or another roofing material. When laying mining, you should take into account and mount the transverse thermal insulation of the rafters themselves (like a cold bridge). If the height of the rafters in the cross section allows only materials, such as EPPS (based on its heat control). It should be very attentive to this issue, it is necessary to make additional waterproofing of the rafter structure, to think out efficiently and arrange the withdrawal of condensates. Otherwise, after three to five years you will be left without an attic. But it is better to certainly invite a competent roofing specialist to be in order not to lose nerves and extra means.! I hope that I helped advice. Good luck!
Barinov Dmitry Ivanovich


Ecowata! Put an end to your endless search. I insulated the dacha where I lived. And the loft as well. I’m not aware of the drawbacks. Many pluses. To begin with, there will be nothing that needs to be disassembled. Furthermore, the best material for insulating against heat. A1EH Forum.

How to properly warm the attic roof

You must first choose the material that will be utilized for this procedure. The potential for rational reversal should be taken into consideration. This is dependent on the size and shape of the release—rolls or slabs, for example. Sprayed insulators are the most effective option, though, if cost is not the primary consideration.

How much insulation is needed

The calculation of the need for insulation is made taking into account the real size of the room. To do this, you need to measure the total length of all the spans between the beams and their width. Of the data obtained, the area that is to be covered with insulation is easily calculated. In addition, it is necessary to calculate the need for insulation to cover the pediments. It"s simple because they usually have a triangular shape. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the cutting up of the material so that there is no large amount of waste. In a good way, such a calculation should be made at the stage of designing the structure, if possible, selecting the distance between the rafters to the size of the selected insulation.

It is intended to install insulation in one or two layers, depending on the climate conditions of the construction site. It is advised to choose option number two because in this scenario, the upper layer may obstruct the joints of the lower layer, preventing the formation of cold bridges.

When determining the foundation’s bearing capacity, the density and thickness of the material are chosen during the design phase. It should be mentioned that the mass of the house’s upper structure is not significantly affected by the insulation.

Technological features of attic insulation

The installation of adequate subcutaneous space ventilation, which is required for the ongoing removal of condensate, is a crucial prerequisite for a qualitative solution to the issue. It is continuously formed, particularly in the morning when the roof’s finish coating starts to heat up. Liquid droplets develop on the inside of metal, corrugated board, and slate tiles. If there’s no consistent ventilation, the entire liquid may be inside a roof pie.

When mats are used as insulation, there should be a 20–25 millimeter space between them and any kind of metal coating. Any kind of soft roof should be increased by one or two times. Ventilation holes are arranged in the cornice with sprayed heaters.

The roofing pie’s wind protection is an essential component of insulation. About 200 microns thick plastic film is used to accomplish it. Its edges are glued with construction tape and overlapped by twenty to twenty-five centimeters. Metal brackets are used to secure the film to the rafter system. Another conventional insulating material is ruberoid.

The film membrane needs to be laid inside the insulation. Unilateral moisture permeability is its primary characteristic. The membrane is oriented in such a way that moisture from the crap layer escapes into space.

The scheme of insulation of the attic

Planning for the insulation scheme should begin during the design phase. Considering the significance of the work completed, it is advisable to present it to a knowledgeable expert and obtain his approval or make suggested modifications.

The insulation of the attic from the inside

When installing a roof in the fall, this technique of applying the insulation layer is employed, and shrinkage is to be expected. Under these circumstances, working outside at a height is risky. Insulation installation is therefore postponed until a later date when it will be feasible to perform work beneath the roof.

The following order in which work can be completed:

  1. Install the crate on elements of the rafter system that form the room of the attic. The boards are stuffed from the outside with a gap of about 10-15 millimeters between them, if a trimming board is used. The thickness of the board should be 25 millimeters, it is not necessary to strict it. It should be warned against the use of a board with a width of more than 125 millimeters, it is possible to deal in the conditions of constantly changing humidity.
  2. On top of the installed crate, it is necessary to install a plastic film that will protect the insulation from the effects of condensate from moisture. Glue the seams at the joints with tape, fasten the wooden details with brackets.
  3. Place the slabs or sheet of insulation in the space between the rafters. Depending on the distance between them, adjustment of the parts is possible. Any insulation is easily cut by a sharp knife. Turning the plate to the size, the width of the parts from the insulation must be made 2-3 centimeters larger. Install the part in the opening of the part. In this case, it will stay between the beams without additional devices. Forming components in the same way when the distance is greater than the size of the insulation. It is necessary to use a two -layer styling. The second layer is formed in the same way, only the seams in them should not match.
  4. The most commonly used materials for the rafter system are a thickness of 50 millimeters and a width of 150. It is advisable to install a heater with a layer of 100 millimeters between such details and fix it with strips. The remaining space will work as an air gap and a ventilation duct.
  5. The black sheathing of walls is installed, which can be made of sheet materials, such as plywood, chipboard, cement-brown plate, drywall and other similar materials.

If the owner doesn’t plan to use the attic as a living space or guest room, then, in theory, the work of warming the attic can be considered completed.

Video: options for insulation of the attic from the inside

The insulation of the attic outside

Working on the roof’s construction is far more practical and efficient than working from the inside. It is not necessary to use extra latches or attach materials in a hanging manner while working.

After the rafter system is installed, the attic is insulated in the following order:

  1. The formation of the attic is carried out in the same way as with the internal version of the execution. The black wall is installed primarily.
  2. Installation of a membrane.
  3. Heater flooring.
  4. Installation of wind protection against polyethylene film.
  5. Installation of the outer crate.

The roof’s finish coating is then applied.

To compensate for the movements of the log cutting room on the rafters, special plates will be used in the design of sturdy fasteners that tighten the structure.

There are various attic insulation techniques that vary depending on the particulars of the job and the insulation that is chosen.

Selecting the appropriate insulation for your roof is essential to preserving your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. Take into account elements like the R-value, which gauges thermal resistance, when choosing insulation. Better insulation performance against heat flow is indicated by higher R-values.

The kind of insulation material is another important factor. Foam board, mineral wool, fiberglass, and spray foam are typical choices. Various materials offer different advantages and suitability based on the design of your assard and the local climate.

Installing DIY projects should be as simple as possible. Installing certain materials is easier than others. For example, fiberglass batts are commonly used in do-it-yourself insulation projects because they are easy to handle and can fit into standard assard spaces.

Take into account the safety and environmental effects of the insulation materials as well. Seek for products that are chemical-free and friendly to the environment. It’s critical to give equal weight to the insulation’s sustainability and efficacy.

Finally, make sure you comprehend local building codes and safety guidelines before beginning your do-it-yourself asbestos insulation project. In addition to improving the comfort of your house, proper installation also lowers energy costs over time and has positive environmental effects.

Video on the topic

Free roof insulation. The ancient method is relevant today!

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Alexandra Fedorova

Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

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