Considering doing the chimney installation yourself? This project can give your house more charm and usefulness. Whether you’re building a new chimney or replacing an old one, this project demands careful planning and close attention to detail.
It’s crucial to comprehend the fundamentals before you start. Your stove or fireplace’s chimney acts as a ventilation system, letting smoke and gases safely leave your house. DIY installation entails a number of important steps, such as selecting the ideal location and making sure the right supplies and safety precautions are used.
First, evaluate your abilities and resources. Chimney installation calls for accuracy and familiarity with regional building codes. You can move forward if you possess the required tools and feel confident performing simple construction tasks. If not, it might be a good idea to get professional advice to make sure safety rules are followed.
Next, think about the kind of chimney that will work best for you. Traditional masonry and prefabricated metal chimneys are among the options. Each type has advantages and disadvantages in terms of price, installation difficulty, and visual appeal. The ideal choice is determined by a number of factors, including climate, home design, and budget.
The secret is to prepare. Make sure you have all the necessary permits and have read the local ordinances carefully before beginning any construction. This guarantees that your project complies with safety regulations and keeps you safe from future fines or issues. Additionally, to make the installation process go more smoothly, gather all required tools and materials.
- How the chimney works, for which it is needed
- What is the chimney knee
- How to choose the desired chimney design
- Requirements for modern chimney
- Video: chimney device
- How to make a chimney with your own hands
- Calculations when building chimneys
- Video: calculation of a chimney for a gas boiler
- Choosing material for chimney
- What does the chimney folded of brick look like
- Video: how to fold a brick chimney
- How to close up a chimney at the junction with a roof
- Video: adjoining the pipe (universal method)
- How to make a sparking, cap (umbrella), gate and other accessories for the chimney
- Production of a protective cap with your own hands
- Video: DIY smoke
- Installation of Shiber
- Features of the chimney for the bathhouse
- The ratio for the chimney
- Video: stainless steel rat
- How to isolate the chimney pipe in the floor
- Video on the topic
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How the chimney works, for which it is needed
The types of chimmers are as follows:
- external or internal;
- with one or two contours;
- made of brick, ceramics or steel.
It also doesn’t matter what kind of chimney you use for your purposes; the important thing is to be aware of and follow certain guidelines. Many non-construction experts believe that a chimney is just a channel installed in a unique way. Additionally, none of the other components of an illogical purpose are required. However, this is not at all the case. He will cease working as soon as he removes something deemed "unnecessary" from the chimney. And it implies that studying a chimney’s design is a prerequisite to studying the regulations governing its construction.
A vertical channel is the ideal chimney design. However, experience demonstrates that the chimney can bend multiple times along its length. Therefore, components like a pipe, knee, and tee are used to pass through the walls, ceiling, and roof.
What is the chimney knee
The chimney canal may rest on the beam as it passes through the overlap. Make use of an angled knee to get around it. When a channel segment has a horizontal portion, it is likewise installed on a knee or tee. Cleaning the chimney becomes challenging when one must use their knee, but a unique detachable element in the design prevents this from happening. Essential criterion: the arrangement of components must prevent leaning out of combustion products.
Passing nozzles are used in bath houses and other similar structures to guarantee safe passage through overlaps.
This is carried out in the manner described below:
- The hole is cut through in the ceiling;
- the pipe is installed and isolated;
- A pipe is displayed through the pipe.
The construction is the same for the roof, but a corner pipe is used.
How to choose the desired chimney design
The kind of heating furnaces being used is the only factor influencing the ideal chimney type. In the meantime, elements like
- combustion temperature;
- the pressure inside the chimney;
- degree of moisture condensation;
- the intensity of the release of aggressive chemicals;
- steam stability;
- dimensions and many other parameters.
A brick chimney is an understandable and affordable solution, but its use is justified only when using solid fuel boilers. Brick is a refractory material and without problems withstands not only the high temperature of combustion products, but also the fire of soot. But for gas, liquid -fuel, as well as gas generator boilers, a brick chimney is absolutely not suitable. The combustion products in them have a very low temperature, which contributes to moisture condensation, and, as a result, leads to the rapid destruction of the chimney. But a brick pipe can be modernized for use together with a cauldron operating on natural gas, when it replaced a solid fuel boiler, installing a steel box inside the channel. The costs of such modernization will be minimal.
A ceramic chimney is a great option for boilers that run on gaseous or liquid fuel as well as for boilers that produce gas. Such a chimney is long-lasting, corrosion-resistant, and extremely sturdy. In this instance, installation must be done in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Chimneys made of brick and ceramics are heavy, adding to the load on the building’s foundation. They frequently cast a foundation independently for them. Furthermore, you must carry out specific calculations in order to construct such a chimney correctly.
Installing a steel pipe would be the best option if the building does not have a separate chimney mine. Compared to ceramic, it lasts less time in service but still does the job perfectly. A steel chimney offers the following benefits:
- low mass;
- moderate value;
- Simple assembly.
Selecting a chimney meant for more demanding operating circumstances is essential if the home has multiple boilers that run on various fuels. For instance, high-temperature gases will cause a steel chimney fitted on a solid fuel boiler to burn very quickly.
Requirements for modern chimney
The main goals of a high-quality combustion product discharge are comfort and security. A good chimney should have good traction, be resistant to corrosion and moisture, and endure high temperatures. A cylinder with smooth walls is the ideal shape for a chimney because it keeps soot from settling in and lengthens the time between channel cleanings.
The following fundamental requirements for chimney design are determined by construction standards:
- The size of the section of the chimney should not be less than the cross -sectional area of the output channel of the boiler;
- For the production of metal chimneys, corrosion-resistant steel with a thickness of more than 0.5 mm should be used;
- In the lower part of the chimney, it is necessary to provide a pocket 250 mm with a depth of 250 mm, which ensures the collection and removal of soot;
- The direction of the chimney channel should not change more than 3 times;
- The radius of the bend of the channel cannot exceed the diameter of the chimney;
- The total length of the chimney should be more than 5 m.
The chimney will function well if it satisfies each of these conditions.
Video: chimney device
How to make a chimney with your own hands
When installing a chimney, follow these requirements:
- The installation of the chimney elements is always performed from below. When the inner pipes are connected, the upper part is inserted into the lower, and when the external is connected, the lower pipe is inserted into the upper. This method prevents moisture from entering the heat -insulating material.
- The fastening of chimneys is performed using clamps. The junctions of the elements should not be in the ceilings. A supporting bracket is installed under the tee. The mount to the wall is performed every 2 m. When mounting, avoid pipe curvatures.
- The length of the horizontal part of the chimney should not exceed 1 m.
- A thermal expansion of the pipe is necessarily provided. To compensate for the expansion of the chimney channel, a special mount is used or the mount occurs with a gap of several millimeters.
- If the roof of the building is covered with easily ignited material, a sparking of a steel mesh with a cell size of not more than 5 by 5 mm is put on the channel cut.
Calculations when building chimneys
Selecting a project that satisfies all the requirements is crucial. For this, seek the assistance of a specialist. Because every heating unit is unique, the primary consideration is the kind of boiler that will be utilized. Next, decide what material will be used to construct the chimney. Assess if a separate foundation filling will be necessary as well. If the total mass of the chimney structure is less than 750 kg, then no foundation filling is needed. Examine the ceilings and locate the supporting beams to decide if the chimney channel needs to be bent.
The accumulation of soot on the inner surface of the chimney channel and the decrease in thrust are both caused by the presence of turns in the channel.
The following specifications should be considered when determining the chimney’s dimensions:
- The diameter of the chimneys of the open -type furnaces should be a minimum of 1/10 of the volume volume. In factory products, this parameter is necessarily indicated in the documentation.
- The area of the section of the chimney in a closed -type furnaces necessarily makes more cross -section of the blow, but it should not exceed it by 50%, otherwise the flow will be twisted, and the craving will decrease sharply.
- The dimensions of the rectangular section of the rectangular cross section should be 1.2–1.4 times higher than the calculated diameter of the round channel.
The thrust’s value is significantly influenced by the chimney’s height; the higher the chimney, the stronger the craving. However, excessive thrust decreases the boiler’s efficiency, and extra fastening is needed to compensate for wind loads in a very high chimney.
To determine the height of the chimney over the skate, follow these guidelines:
- The total length of the entire chimney, if counted from the grate, should be at least 5 m. The exception is indifferent houses where you can painlessly reduce the length of the chimney, but only if the craving is stable.
- The length of the chimney above the flat roof is 0.5 m.
- The length of the chimney over the skate of the pitched roof is at least 0.5 m if the distance between the pipe itself and the rib of the skate does not exceed 1.5 m.
- The mouth of the chimney can be placed flush with the skate, but only if the distance between the pipe and the skate rib is in the range from 1.5 to 3 m.
- In all other cases, the output of the pipe should be above the line passing from the ridge rib at an angle of 10 about .
Video: calculation of a chimney for a gas boiler
Choosing material for chimney
When selecting a chimney design, you should be aware of:
- type of boiler;
- the place of installation of the boiler;
- its efficiency;
- The temperature of combustion products. In boilers working on solid fuel, it can reach 600 o C.
Chimneys built of brick were the most common for a long time because brick is a common refractory material. Additionally, the traditional style of stoves and fireplaces currently work best with this kind of chimney.
In the meantime, heat-resistant steel, enameled ceramic, and ceramic chimneys can withstand high temperatures. Boilers that use liquid or gaseous fuel that are more recent have an efficiency of roughly 90%. In this instance, the combustion products’ temperature stays below 160 degrees Celsius. However, this is where the issue lies: condensate, which has a fairly high acidity level, forms inside the chimney and quickly ruins the brick or asbestos cement chimney. The best option would be to use chamotomed brick, steel, polymer, refractory glass, or ceramics as a material. Good thermal insulation lowers the risk of acid condensate.
Steel chimneys have the benefit of having smooth interior surfaces, which ensures that combustion products will encounter the least amount of resistance during passage. By removing moisture from outside the pipe, the condensation collectors included in the design of these chimneys reduce the possibility of corrosion. If there is a mine within the structure, it can be converted to a chimney by putting in a steel box.
Tech-savvy homeowners can lay ceramic tiles on the wall where the chimney canal is located, install a reflecting screen, and cover the exterior of the chimney with a color-coated galvanized metal.
What does the chimney folded of brick look like
The components of the brick chimney are as follows:
- Braud pipe. It is installed directly on the oven. A valve is installed in the supersonal pipe. During its construction, a special type of brickwork is used.
- Rub. It is performed at a distance of six rows before the overlap. The flush is a part of the chimney expanding by 250–400 mm, which passes through the ceiling, while the dimensions of the inner channel do not change.
- Riser. It is located in the attic and goes to the roof.
- Otter. This is a part of the chimney expanding by 100 mm on each side, which is laid out immediately above the roof. Expansion prevents moisture from entering the attic through the gaps between the chimney wall and the roof material.
- Neck. This is the upper part of the pipe – from the otter to the head.
- Head. It is performed in the form of an extension on which a metal umbrella is installed that protects against precipitation into the chimney.
Video: how to fold a brick chimney
How to close up a chimney at the junction with a roof
The installation of an apron as a protective element is the most straightforward sealing technique. The apron can be purchased already completed or made on your own. The passage box is typically round in shape and composed of galvanized steel. It is clamped in place in addition to being mounted on the pipe.
Silicone sealant can be used to seal gaps of less than one inch in size. Its extensive assortment is available in all building supply stores. Using a heat-resistant sealant is advised.
There are several features of gap elimination for different kinds of roofs, among other things. As a result, sealing techniques for slate, tile, and corrugated board roofs will vary.
The slate roof is composed of a cement and asbestos mixture. The following is the sealing procedure:
- A round hole is cut in the skate.
- A ring from a sheet of asbestos cement is attached to the pipe.
- The joint between the pipe and the roof material is poured with a cement -air solution in a ratio of 1: 2 or covered with a sealant.
The best choice for a tiled roof is to use a cement and sand-based solution. He will consistently guard against the attic becoming wet.
To seal the joint, the following is necessary:
- Make a collar using galvanizing, creating the desired space for filling the solution.
- Fill in the space with the solution, making sure that the solution completely filled the entire volume.
- Additionally equip the surface under the slope for fluid drainage.
A self-adhesive tape of the "Wakaflex" type is used to seal joints on bitumen roofs. The following is needed to seal the joint:
- Cut the strip of tape of the required length.
- Glue the joints with stripes.
- Pour the remaining cracks with bitumen mastic.
It is best to use the completed device called "Master Flash" when removing the chimney from the corrugated board roof. It works well with different kinds of roofing materials. It’s an aluminum-framed apron car composed of silicone or rubber. Operating temperatures for silicone and rubber modification range from -50 to +130 o C.
The installation process for this product follows the following plan:
- In the apron, a hole is cut with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney.
- The pipe is tapped into the apron-cap.
- At the place of fit of the base of the apron, the seal is laid on the roof.
- The base is attached to the corrugable corrugations.
- All cracks are filled with the help of heat -resistant silicone sealant.
In the event that this sealing technique is insufficient to offer total protection, you can also use self-adhesive reinforced aluminum tape.
Video: adjoining the pipe (universal method)
How to make a sparking, cap (umbrella), gate and other accessories for the chimney
Venting channels and the chimneys of boilers and furnaces are covered with protective umbrellas. Stainless steel is utilized in the production process of this element. Examine the features and specifications of the cap before assembling it. For example, the steel needs to be sufficiently flexible, the smokers’ upper section needs to be angled, and the installed umbrella shouldn’t obstruct the thrust.
Production of a protective cap with your own hands
The purpose of Dysmum is to keep moisture out of the chimney and off the upper crown of the masonry. Additionally, this element’s attractive design can be used to decorate the chimney and the roof as a whole.
Smoke can be produced easily and independently. You start by taking all the required measurements. The cap’s size is chosen to be 5–10 mm larger than the chimney’s diameter. The drawing is then created. The cardboard drawing is used to create templates for the smokers’ parts, which are then used to cut out the finished metal pieces.
- The bending lines are marked on the resulting workpiece.
- Then, with the help of leaf beam, the sheets bend the lines. You can manage the workpiece with a vice and a wooden beam.
- After bending, check the correct bends on the plane. The edges of the resulting cone should fit tightly to the surface.
- Mark the holes for fastening the legs and then drill them.
- The base frame is made from the corner. One corner shelf should lie down on the upper crown of the chimney, and the second – drop along the wall. Holes are drilled in the places of fastening of the legs. The base itself is fixed on the brickwork of the chimney in any convenient way.
- The legs are made and attached to the upper part to the cone for rivets, and the lower part to the base frame.
- The entire structure is treated with an anti -corrosion composition and painted in several layers.
Video: DIY smoke
Installation of Shiber
The boiler’s efficiency is indicated by the thrust level. High efficiency refers to the efficient release of a significant quantity of heat during fuel combustion. to provide enough traction, such as a gate or other adjusting component that guarantees fire safety when using furnaces.
There are two kinds of shippers:
- in the form of a conventional plate flap;
- With a rotary mechanism.
The gate, when closed, overlaps the chimney canal by only 86%, excluding the total loss of traction, in contrast to standard chimney valves, which have only two positions. Furthermore, the traction itself can be altered by rotating or shifting the damper, which modifies the chimney’s passage cross section.
All varieties of fireplaces and furnaces have gates installed, with the exception of those whose thrust is controlled by the volume of air delivered in the blow. It is available for purchase in any specialty store or can be made independently.
Shiber is frequently positioned right at the chimney’s base. Installing this component happens while the chimney is being built.
The procedure for installing Shiber when constructing a brick chimney is as follows:
- The first row of brick is placed.
- When laying the second row, a place is left under the installation of a ghost or a part of the brick is cut to the thickness of the damper.
- In a brick under a gear, a deepening is made under the chibir handle.
- The subsequent row of brick is laid, and all the gaps are filled with a solution.
Features of the chimney for the bathhouse
The construction of chimneys in the bathhouse follows the same general guidelines. At the very least, the boiler’s output channel section should pass through the smoke exhauster. The amount of traction is influenced by the chimney’s length; the longer the chimney, the higher the level.
Give preference to thicker-walled structures when manufacturing a stainless steel chimney, as these products have a substantially longer service life.
Sandwich tube chimneys are the most common type at the moment. This design has an exterior pipe and an interior pipe, with a heater positioned inside the interior space between them. You can build a pipeline like this with your own hands.
There may be a chimney inside the space as well as outside. When the chimney is installed externally, there is increased safety, more room is available, and easier access for maintenance and inspections. Further work will be necessary to guarantee the chimney’s thermal insulation, though.
Since the portion of the chimney that is located inside the bathhouse does not need to be isolated in order for the heat from the pipe to heat the air in the bath, the costs of insulation are greatly decreased with an internal chimney installation.
Experts advise using this approach, but the owner has the last say.
However, whichever option is selected, the following conditions must be met:
- The inner surface of the chimney should be smooth;
- The shape of the chimney should be round.
The ratio for the chimney
The chimney’s rat is a feature that allows the pipe to go through the roof. It has a cone-shaped pipe and is composed of steel sheet. The roof’s slope determines the pipe’s angle of inclination. The inner hole’s size must be 5–10 millimeters larger than the chimney’s diameter in order for the pipe to flow freely through it. A prisoner, fastened to the chimney, fills the space between it and the Kryza, and a sealant is used to compact the intersection.
The rat offers a secure way through the roof to access the chimney. Safe passes entail:
- fire safety when passing the chimney;
- hydraulic protection of the joints between the chimney and the roof.
The types of rats that are distinguished are as follows:
- The ridge rat. Used when passing the roof in the skate area passes. Provides ease of installation and excellent sealing joints. In this case, the pipe protrudes above the cut of the skate by only 0.5-0.6 m. To ensure fire safety, it is necessary to use a passing sleeve of increased length.
- Single -toe rat. It is used when the chimney leaves the roof away from the skate. In this case, there are big problems with sealing joints. None of the ways gives a reliable result. In addition to everything with a high remoteness from the cut of the skate, it is necessary to raise the chimney to a large height, which accordingly leads additional work on the fastening of it with stretch marks.
- Delayed and abortioned rat. The design of the decy rat ensures the installation of passing cartridges in order to ensure fire safety. Used for all types of heating furnaces and boilers. The abandonment rat does not provide for the installation of the sleeve. It is mainly used to withdraw ventilation ducts.
- Universal rat. In order to make the cover, it is necessary to measure the size of the chimney section at the passage through the roof. It is possible to apply a universal cover for roofs with an angle of inclination up to 15 0, up to 30 0 and up to 50 0, which can be purchased in stores. The use of a universal rat entails the occurrence of some problems with waterproofing and fire safety, but does not require large cash costs.
Video: stainless steel rat
How to isolate the chimney pipe in the floor
The boxing structure is equipped when the chimney is passed through the ceiling. The following are its device’s fundamental rules:
- The hole in the ceiling should be of such a size that the gap between its boundaries and the wall of the chimney is about 30 cm.
- The material on the edges of the opening should be covered with asbestos -cement or sheathed with sheets of metal.
- The box must be filled with mineral wool or expanded clay.
- Wooden elements near the chimney must be treated with an anti -piren composition.
After reading this, you will be able to isolate the chimney with ease. But even with an isolated chimney, you still need to follow the operating guidelines, clean it three to four times a year, promptly remove the furnace ash, and avoid using materials that aren’t meant for burning as fuel. If you abide by the guidelines, you’ll be able to offer a lengthy and secure chimney service.
Materials Needed | Step-by-Step Instructions |
1. Chimney kit (flashing, cap, pipe) | 1. Choose chimney location and measure roof angle. |
2. Roofing tar and sealant | 2. Install flashing around chimney base. |
3. Roofing nails and hammer | 3. Assemble chimney pipe sections. |
4. Fireproof insulation | 4. Secure chimney cap at the top. |
5. Safety gloves and goggles | 5. Apply roofing tar to seal joints. |
6. Test chimney draft for proper ventilation. |
DIY chimney installation can be a rewarding project, but it needs to be planned carefully and meticulously. Make sure you do your homework on local building codes and regulations pertaining to chimney installations before you start. These laws can differ greatly, so it’s imperative to make sure you’re in compliance to prevent problems down the road.
First, make sure you have all the supplies and equipment needed for the installation. Usually, this consists of the chimney cap, flashing, chimney pipe, and any extra support elements. Make sure you have everything you need before beginning, as interruptions can make things more difficult.
Think about things like roof slope, prevailing wind direction, and distance from combustible materials when choosing a location for your chimney. Appropriate positioning is necessary for effective smoke extraction and to avert possible fire risks.
Pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions for each component during installation. Make sure all of the seals are tight and take your time tightening the chimney pipe. Leaks and ineffective operation can result from even tiny cracks or loose fittings.
After installation, give the chimney system a careful inspection. Keep an eye out for any damage or gaps that might jeopardize performance or safety. To maintain optimal functionality, it is recommended that you have your chimney cleaned and inspected by a professional chimney sweep once a year.
Finally, once the installation is finished, celebrate your success and maintain your vigilance. Keep an eye out for any problems with your chimney and take quick action to fix them to avoid bigger problems later. Installing a DIY chimney can be a successful and affordable addition to your house with proper planning and execution.
Are you considering installing a DIY chimney? Even though it can save costs, it’s important to recognize the complexities. This guide will walk you through the necessary steps and considerations, from safety concerns to local regulations. A successful and safe project depends on careful planning and adherence to building codes, whether you’re installing a new chimney or replacing an old one.