Interior decoration of the attic: the choice of material and work order

A transformational project that improves your home’s appearance and usability is decorating the attic. Whether you’re turning it into a child play area, a calm office, or a comfortable living area, selecting the appropriate materials and carefully organizing the process are essential. This article discusses how to decorate the interior of your attic, with a focus on useful advice and considerations.

To begin with, choosing the right materials is essential to creating a cozy and aesthetically pleasing attic area. Think about things like insulation, toughness, and aesthetic fit with the design of your house. Because of their adaptability and insulating qualities, materials for walls and ceilings like drywall, wood paneling, or tongue-and-groove boards are popular.

Next, arrange the tasks in a way that will guarantee a seamless and effective renovation process. Assessing the attic’s structural soundness and making any required improvements or repairs should come first. This could entail checking for leaks in the roof, strengthening the flooring, and making sure there is enough ventilation to avoid moisture buildup.

After taking care of the structural issues, concentrate

Material Choice Work Order
Consider insulation and aesthetics when choosing materials like drywall, wood panels, or insulation boards. Start with cleaning and preparing the attic space. Install insulation first, followed by structural elements like panels or boards. Finish with painting or staining as desired.

Comparative characteristics of materials

These days, finishing materials are available in construction stores that cater to all budgets and tastes.


Thus, in daily life, they are referred to as narrow, precisely adjusted boards with crests and grooves. Wagon walls were made from this material in the past. The trim is thought to be the most appropriate for the home:

  • the absence of distinguished secretions that are characteristic of many modern synthetic materials;
  • beautiful natural pattern on the surface;
  • low thermal conductivity: warm wood to the touch, which is especially important for flooring.

There is nothing that compares to the unique, cozy atmosphere that wooden cladding creates in a space. However, concurrently, the lining

  • has a relatively high cost;
  • The mood for the temperature-humid regime: as soon as the conditions deviate from the norm, wood may dry out or be crumpled;
  • In the form of flooring, it needs periodic maintenance (grinding), since it does not differ in particular strength.

The price of the various lining types varies substantially. What sets them apart:

  • Premium variety lining is the most expensive. It has no visible defects, knots or chips, very smooth. Usually performed by fragmentation, sold complete with fasteners and in special packaging, which avoids damage during transportation;
  • The first grade lining (class A) has minor defects: a small percentage of knots, non -bloody cracks, not more than 20% of the core. It is used in facial decoration of houses, covered with varnish or wax, which allow you to preserve the natural type of material;
  • Second -grade lining (class B) is characterized by a significant amount of visible defects. On such boards there are resin, blue, core, undivided cracks. Boards on which marriage is very noticeable, wiped and painted with dark paint or dark wood varnish;
  • third grade lining (class C) – very low in quality, but the cheapest. Non -residential premises are finished with such boards. A lot of defects: falling knots, chips, through cracks, bark. Class C trash must be significantly adjusted when skin -skinned.

Regardless of breed or variety, the wood needs to be shielded from mechanical wear and humidity. Three different compounds are used for this purpose:

  • varnish. The most durable, reliable and durable protection. The disadvantage is the absence of the possibility of local repair, that is, if the floor is damaged somewhere, then after replacing the lamella, the varnish coating will have to be applied again on the entire floor or wall;
  • oil. Oil impregnation is cheaper and does not require restoration of the coating on the entire surface after local repair. But in terms of durability, such protection is very inferior to the lacquer, in addition, it almost does not protect the wood from mechanical wear;
  • Wax with additives. Such coating began to be used relatively recently. It combines the advantages of both previous species: it can be partially restored and at the same time it is almost the same persistent as varnish.

These days, some producers make boards with a varnish coating already on them. While this is practical, keep in mind that water can still enter the space between the lamellas, so this type of protection is not complete.

Block house

An additional kind of wooden siding. Everyone is aware that a horseman of this type is a rounded sidewall made of logs that is cut during the dissolution of the barrel on a non-core board or to turn it into a beam. This material is extremely inexpensive and is waste from woodworking. A calibrated hump created specifically as a finishing material is called a block house. The canus is composed of identically sized blocks with smooth edges, and grooves carved out of the back to release internal tensions and stop cracking. The idea is that the material lined wall will have the appearance of being made of logs.

Note that the block house has different widths, which causes different thicknesses to bulge. Broad boards are used to line buildings externally, while narrow boards, which have a small bulge, are used internally to take up the least amount of space.

Imitation of the beam

This is actually the same lining; it’s just wider and has the front side corners cut. Such a decoration is imitation, similar to a block house, but it’s a rectangular beam instead of a round log.

Block houses and beam imitations are typically constructed from soft conifers because they are only utilized for facing walls or ceilings. Such wood has a high resistance to moisture, insects, and microorganisms because of its high resin content.

After deciding between a block house, lining, or beam imitation, consider the following: light woods such as spruce, fir, ash, and maple are recommended because the attic’s layout is dictated by the location of cramped. As you are aware, a bright finish gives the impression of space.

Wood and scrap stoves-chipboard, OSB and MDF

Chips, or waste from woodworking, are used to make these comparatively inexpensive materials. After the connecting material and wood base are combined, the mixture is put into the press. These materials don’t handle loads as well as whole wood does, particularly bending.

A domestic version is called chipboard, and the chips are arranged randomly.

Chips are layered in three or more layers in OSB, and they are layered in one direction in each layer. The direction’s adjacent layers are perpendicular to one another. The name, which means "oriented-brown plate," is to blame for this. This performance allows the plate to withstand bending efforts with greater stability.

OSB stages have varying degrees of moisture resistance. They are separated into 4 groups based on this. Only dry rooms may use the OSB-1 plate, while high humidity rooms use the OSB-4 plate.

The phenol-formaldehyde resin is binding in both the chipboard and the OSB, which releases toxic evaporation. The so-called class of emissions of toxic substances characterizes how intensely harmful pairs are distinguished. Make a distinction between classes E0 through E4. In residential buildings, class E0 or E1 materials may be used for the inner wall skin. In this instance, any facial covering—such as wallpaper—should close the material.

Purchases of OSB accumulates of Chinese manufacturers, many of whom irrationally attribute their products to the low class of emissions, should be made with extreme caution. It is highly likely that residents’ health will suffer significantly from such material.

MDF plates are composed of chips as well, but they are not the same as the two species mentioned previously in a few aspects:

  • As a binder, harmless paraffin and lignin are used, and the latter is contained in the wood itself and is released when it is heated and subsequently pressed. This, so to speak, is natural glue;
  • On the one hand, decorative cladding is applied to the stove.
  • Melamin film with a pattern imitating the structure of the tree: it costs cheap, but easily scratches;
  • veneer, that is, a thin board made of wood of valuable species: it is more expensive, but in comparison with the film, more durable and looks “more solid”.

Therefore, MDF plates are completely eco-friendly and can be used as a finish, whereas OSB and chipboard boards are only meant to be used as a rough (they require linoleum, wallpaper, etc.).

The width of MDF panels varies. Applying as much width as possible is advised because the coating that has the fewest seams appears the most appealing.

PVC panels

PVC panels are made of two plates that are joined together by stiffness ribs to form a monolithic component. These panels usually contain structural components that enable part pressing.

The following are some benefits of using plastic panels:

  • low cost;
  • water resistance;
  • smooth surface, which is very easily washed;
  • A wide variety both in color and in the pattern – printed or embossed;
  • softness and, accordingly, lightness in processing;
  • Simplicity of installation: unlike another waterproof and smooth material – ceramic tiles – can easily be laid by an inexperienced master, so you will not have to invite a specialist from the outside.

However, in spite of the lengthy list of "pluses," this material is far from ideal and has a number of drawbacks:

  • The danger of releasing harmful volatile substances. Plastic, especially cheap, can distinguish harmful gaseous substances due to decomposition of polymer molecules. For example, PVC is released by the GAR of Chlorvinyl. With a relatively small heating – within 50–80 ° C – the amount of gas released increases greatly. This must be remembered when choosing built -in lamps for a bearing plastic ceiling. The best option is LED lamps that almost do not give heat. You can not have heating radiators close to plastic decoration, heated towel rails and other heat sources.
  • Fire hazard. Plastic combustible, but this. In the end, the tree also burns well. The main danger is that when the plastic is burned, a huge amount of extremely toxic smoke emits. Polymers with anti-piren additives, which are considered non-combustible because of this, are abundantly distinguished smoke in contact with the flame.
  • Low strength. The plastic panel can easily crack even with a relatively weak blow with a hard object. If it does not crack, then it definitely scratches. Because of this, lining from polymers quickly loses its presentation;
  • a room trimmed with plastic, due to a cold unnatural shine, does not seem cozy.

In conclusion, PVC panels are a less expensive option to ceramic tiles. Such decorations are typically found in non-residential areas where hygienic conditions and resistance to moisture are necessary, such as restrooms, hallways, and balconies. It is not advised to use them for attic decoration.


Low-cost leaf material masquerading as black skin. It has a cardboard lining that is covered in plaster. The content is separated into various categories:

  • ordinary drywall sheets (GCL);
  • Fireproof (GCLL);
  • moisture resistant (GKLV);
  • moisture -resistant (GKLVO).

Sheets ranging in thickness from 6 to 25 mm are released. A material with a thickness of 6–9.5 mm is used to manufacture the bearing ceiling, while a 12 mm thick wall lining is used.

A drywall sheet will become flexible if you use a needle roller to create a perforation in a cardboard cover and then moisten it with water. This material’s ability to form arches, multi-level ceilings with curved outlines, and other structures is one of its advantages.

We look at helpful tips for making your attic a comfortable and useful place in this article on "Interior Decoration of the Attic: Choosing Materials and Planning the Process." We want to give homeowners clear direction on everything from choosing appropriate materials like flooring, finishes, and insulation to laying out a step-by-step plan for the renovation process. Whether you’re turning your attic into a fun hangout, a home office, or a cozy bedroom, knowing these options and making smart plans will guarantee a smooth and happy renovation process.

DIY Rasard finish from the inside

There are various steps involved in organizing the attic:

    First, preparatory work is carried out, which are due to the fact that the entire rafter system after the installation of the finish will be inaccessible. Therefore, it must be carefully checked for rotten areas, cracks, corrosion of metal fasteners and other defects.

Leaks in the roof won’t be noticed right away after the attic is set up, so its condition has to be closely examined. For exterior work, any questionable areas must be liberally sealed with silicone sealant.

  • Elements that are not subject to repair must be replaced. For reliability, all wood can be impregnated with an antiseptic, even if such a procedure has already been performed at the construction stage.
  • If the roof was not insulated earlier (cold attic), it is necessary to install waterproofing and insulation. It is advisable to use a heater with a soundproof effect – then the drum fraction of the rain will not be heard so clearly. This requirement is satisfied with the mats and slabs from mineral wool. In addition, this material, unlike polystyrene, does not cause a desire to enjoy it in rodents. Before laying the heat insulator, you need to check the presence of a waterproofing film.
  • It is preferable to use a specific membrane for waterproofing that allows vapor to pass through but does not pass water. Because of this, there will be very little chance of condensate forming in the mineral wool because the water vapor that entered the heat insulator from the dwelling will be able to reach the ventilation gap beneath the roof. All that needs to be considered is that this type of membrane behaves differently depending on which way it is laid, so you have to be careful.

  • If the technology was observed during the construction of the roof, this film should be found immediately under the roofing, on top of the crate. If you forgot about it, you need to put it now – at least under the rafter system. In this case, it will not protect the wood from the water, but at least it will save mineral wool in dryness. The latter absorbs water well and, of course, completely loses the thermal insulation properties.
  • The waterproofing film is pressed to the crate laid on top of the rafters, after which it is shot to it with a construction stapler. Then tighten the rafter leg and strengthen the film on the next interval between the rafters. It is necessary to roll the roll in parallel to the skate, while you need to start installation on top, that is, from the skate, laying a strip of material with an overlap of 150-200 mm and gluing the overlap places with bilateral tape. Then proceed to the installation of insulation. The mineral wool plate has an elastic edge, due to which it can be held between the rafters due to the spacer effort. Since, with this placement of insulation, the rafters are the “cold bridge”, it is advisable to cover the roof from below with flexible mineral wool mats, shooting them to wood with a construction stapler. It is important after that using a stretched cord to indicate the position of the rafters, since they will be needed to fasten the frame.
  • The thinnest fibers in mineral wool, such as glass and basalt, break into dust when they break. This dust causes serious diseases if it gets into the respiratory system or eyes. Additionally, it is advisable to protect the skin because irritation could result otherwise. Because of this, installing mineral wool insulation requires the use of safety goggles, a respirator, gloves, and old clothing, which would be a waste to discard after work.

    The insulation of the pediments is the following step. The way pediments are installed determines which insulation method is best. If the skate and extreme rafters are only supported by a wooden or other type of sheathing, insulation needs to be installed using the same method as the rest of the roof: by attaching mineral wool plates from the inside. A stretched nylon cord can be used to temporarily secure them if dispersal installation proves to be challenging (before installing the frame).

    Vapor barriers are not necessary when using mineral wool, allowing the wall to be "breathing." Concurrently, vapor-permeable waterproofing is applied to the mineral wool, and the ventilated facade is outfitted with siding that is fastened to brackets with a space between it and the insulation.

    Even polystyrene needs to be protected if there isn’t a ventilation gap beneath the vapor barrier roof, even though it can withstand moisture. If not, the condensation of steam on the inner surface of the roofing will lead to the rotting of the wooden components of the rafter system.

  • In the absence of such, moisture (the steam coming from the dwelling from the dwelling) will condense on the surface of the wall, which destroys the material during freezing.
  • The lining of the pediments is carried out in the same way as Skatov:
  • mount waterproofing and insulation;
  • install the frame and sheathe it with facing material;
  • Perform the finish.
  • Installation of the frame is made of wooden racks with a cross section of 45 × 15 mm or metal profiles (galvanized steel), which are nailed or screwed to the rafters perpendicular to them, that is, horizontally. The step of fastening the elements of the frame is 40-60 cm. If the rafter system was mounted correctly, then their facets will be in one plane by itself. If deviations are noticed (for verification you can pull the threads imitating the plane), under the ruins of the frame in the right places, lining should be installed.
  • In parallel with the installation of the frame, a vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation so that it is pressed with runs. If this is not done, the water vapor present in the room will penetrate the mineral wool and condenses on its cold outside.
  • For lining the frame, sheet material, which was preferred, is screwed to the frame with self -tapping screws. Usually fastened the fasteners every 20–25 cm. If drywall is used for lining, which is fragile, between the sheets you need to leave a gap of 5 mm. Otherwise, the material with deformations of the rafters under the action of a snow or wind load may crack.
  • If the lining material is not finishing in itself, like a lining or MDF plate, then on top of it you need to lay the finish coating. It can be wallpaper, paint, plaster or fabric drapery.
  • Video: Hypsum Carton

    The interior decoration of your attic depends heavily on the materials you choose, both in terms of appearance and usefulness. Every decision you make about the design of your space, from sleek, contemporary finishes to rustic wooden beams that evoke a cozy charm, adds to its overall ambience. Think about the useful features as well, like durability and insulation, to make sure the materials you choose will improve comfort and endure the particular circumstances of the attic.

    Effective planning is essential for a successful work order for the interior of your attic. First, declutter the area and determine what structural or insulating work needs to be done. After that, arrange for the installation of the materials in a sensible order, starting with the flooring and ending with the walls and ceiling finishes. This methodical approach guarantees a well-executed and cohesive transformation by streamlining the process and ensuring that each step builds upon the previous one.

    The interior decoration of your attic can look better in the end if installation is done with attention to detail. Either you or a professional working on the project will benefit from the careful craftsmanship that guarantees a flawless finish at every turn and seam. Give careful consideration to any obstacles that may come up, such as molding materials to fit particular areas or skillfully incorporating ventilation and lighting into the design.

    In the end, attic interior design is a chance to turn a frequently disregarded area into a useful and aesthetically pleasing component of your house. It is possible to design an attic that not only fulfills functional needs but also improves the overall comfort and character of your home by paying close attention to quality craftsmanship, adhering to a methodical work order, and carefully choosing materials that fit your lifestyle and style.

    Video on the topic

    Rapard finish

    TOP 10 options for interior wall decoration, the most popular finishing materials pros and cons of

    Interior decoration of the attic [hd]

    The best interior decoration! / What decoration of walls and floor to choose for a country house?

    How to sheathe an attic inside under the finish, for winter residence – KNAUF GVVV, not drywall.

    Interior adjusting the attic osb for metal tiles

    Top of things in a country house that everyone wants, but then they do not use

    What do you think, which element is the most important for a reliable and durable roof?
    Share to friends
    Alexandra Fedorova

    Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

    Rate author
    Add a comment