DIY DIY installation of a drainage system

Maintaining the longevity and structural integrity of your roof depends on installing an appropriate drainage system. Rainwater is efficiently diverted from the roof by a well-designed drainage system, avoiding water accumulation that may cause leaks, structural damage, or even the growth of mold inside your house.

Installing a drainage system yourself requires a few essential steps that, with the correct equipment and supplies, homeowners can complete on their own. You can prolong the life of your roof and improve its overall performance by making sure that proper drainage is in place.

Ascertaining the best location for gutters and downspouts on your roof is crucial before you begin the installation process. This preliminary planning aids in effectively gathering rainfall and diverting it away from your home’s foundation.

In our tutorial on "DIY Installation of a Drainage System," we go over doable actions and things to think about for homeowners who want to improve the water management on their property. This article aims to empower readers with practical advice on everything from selecting the right materials to comprehending basic installation techniques. Whether you’re dealing with downspout placement, gutter extensions, or runoff path optimization, these simple-to-follow guidelines guarantee that you can successfully and reasonably protect your home from water damage."

Retock from the pitched roofs

Under the influence of precipitation, the building, which was not equipped with high-quality gutters during construction, will quickly become rather unsightly. Most significantly, the overall state of the building will also be negatively impacted, which is why mold and an unpleasant stench could develop everywhere.

Furthermore, the following issues will surface if this problem is not taken seriously, necessitating ongoing financial expenditures:

• High humidity will cause the weakening and gradual destruction of the foundation and base of the house;
• Inevitable water will penetrate the basement and constantly fill it;
• mold and high humidity will affect the health of residents;
• The noise from draining water will interfere with a comfortable rest.

The drainage system is used everywhere to remove precipitation from roof surfaces. Water that flows off the roof into a designated gutter and then down drain pipes to the ground away from the building. The gutter’s sole function is to collect rainwater from the roof’s surface. Water is drained via the drain pipe into a location that has been set aside specifically for this purpose. However, in addition to the pipeline and gutter, other components such as knees, clamps, fasteners, and others will be needed for the drain installation.

Distribution configurations: closed and unmarked

The drainage system’s design is determined by the kind of roof. For instance, a straightforward system with two gutters and few drainage pipes is ideal for a suburban house with a typical gable roof and a straight cornice.

However, the design of the drainage system becomes more complex when the roof slopes have a complex configuration. In this instance, you must take several steps to ensure a dependable drainage system in order to ensure an aesthetically pleasing type of building.

Closed water carrier system

If the roof of the house is hip roofed, the closed drain is mounted. Single-design gutters are found encircling the outside edge of slopes and are plug-free. It is important to remember that water drains from the hip roof in all directions, which is why gutters work best in the corners of the house.

When calculating drainage pipes in a closed system, the entire roof’s area is taken into account and values are rounded to the nearest whole number.

Unmarried drainage system

A typical roof with two slopes will have two separate unmarked systems—one stiff with drain pipes for each slope.

Installing squirring pipes in open systems requires placing them precisely in the center of the wall and at the corners of the structure.

Roadfoor water removal device

The drain’s most basic design has a roof with only one side. It will be simple to gather them since the precipitation will flow away from her in one direction.

Less dramatically, using a rain chain rather than pipes is a fairly common solution in single-story homes.

Since the chain is a component of the facade’s decoration, it has become extremely popular in the Japanese archipelago. Make it frequently out of copper. Unfortunately, decorative elements for drainage chains are not currently produced by drainage system component manufacturers for the Russian market.

However, if you want to create such a system on your own, make sure to adhere to these guidelines:

1. The chain should be stretched to prevent its fluctuations from side to side, for which the lower end must be fixed in any possible way.
2. In order to avoid water from the finishing materials of the building, the chain should be installed at a distance of at least 0.5 meters from the wall.

Putting such an idea into practice is very easy; all you need is a desire.

Gable roof drainage device

The corners of the house contain the drain pipes on a typical gable roof. From an aesthetic and a technical perspective, this arrangement works best.

The location of gutter installations is directly impacted by the roof device.

The roof plan must be used to determine where the plums should be placed. Reliability and aesthetic conditions should be considered when installing a drain, but reliability should always come first. The distance from the gutter to the plum point—the sewer column or blind area—is taken into consideration when calculating the length of the drain pipes.

The length of the roof slopes affects where the drain pipe should be installed as well. The pipe, which is less than 12 meters long, can be placed anywhere in the wall, with the exception of areas close to windows, balconies, or bay windows. Near the cornice’s center, with a length of over 12 meters. The most important thing is that the pipes are spaced no more than 24 meters apart.

District on the roofs of complex shape

Designing a drainage system for a multifaceted roof can be challenging because every slope needs its own water system. These challenges are discussed here and will be covered in detail.

The effect of the number of slopes on the design of the drainage system

When there are many slopes on the roof and the drainage system is inexpensively constructed, a lot of water entering the gutter causes the gutter’s volume to be insufficient, which drastically lowers the speed of the water flow. This puts a significant strain on the system’s architecture and speeds up the freezing of water in below-freezing temperatures. As a result, the increased load brought on by the large area of the roof’s slopes must be considered when designing the drainage system.

Superstructures and lukarns

Providing drainage for turrets and balconies presents a challenge because these are the areas where moisture is most likely to seep into the structure and freeze. This is the reason why minimalist architecture is so in right now.

It is a non-trivial task to provide drainage from the tower because a circular gutter needs to be installed. Bending a single piece of metal to create a gutter is nearly impossible. These soldiers are constructed from tiny parts that are soldered together and have painted roofs to conceal the joints between the parts.

Furthermore, drainage gutters are not required for the attic or lukarna. Understanding the direction of water flow and the location of its accumulation is crucial. Gutter installation for lucacobs only occurs when the plant has a sizable surface area and multidirectional slopes.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with your own hands

Important technical points

Having a solid drainage system in place ensures that the building’s foundation and walls won’t become wet. SNiP 2 is created and used to guarantee that the specifications for the design of drain systems are met. 04-01–85. The following Rules are in charge of the drain’s development norms:

1. The horizontal distance in the light between the inputs of the household water supply and the outputs of the sewage and drains should be at least 1.5 m with an input diameter of up to 200 mm inclusive and at least 3 m with an input diameter of more than 200 mm. A joint laying of inputs of the water supply for various purposes is allowed.
2. Internal drains should ensure the removal of rain and melt water from the roofs of buildings. When arranging internal gutters in unheated buildings, measures should be provided that provide heating of pipelines and gutters at a negative outer air temperature (electric heating, heating with steam, etc. D.). The feasibility of the installation of heated internal drains should be justified by the feasibility study.
3. Water from internal drains should be removed to the external networks of rain or communal sewage. In the absence of rain sewage, the production of rainwater from internal drains should be taken openly into trays near the building (open production), while measures should be provided that exclude the erosion of the Earth"s surface near the building.
4. On the flat roof of the building and in one yendov it is necessary to install at least two drainage funnels. Roofing funnels on the roof should be placed taking into account its relief, the permissible water area for one funnel and the construction of the building.
5. The maximum distance between drainage funnels for any type of roof should not exceed 48 m.

The calculation of the drainage system

The total area of all the roof’s slopes or projections is the size of the water surface. The following formulae are used to calculate Skatov areas:

1. The area of ​​the rectangular slope of the roof: p = d*a, where D is the length of the slope, and the width of the slope or its projection.
2. The area of ​​the triangular slope of the roof: p = 1 /₂D*h, where d is the length of the slope, n is the height of the skate.

When doing calculations, it is necessary to consider that one water brown funnel will suffice if the gutter is no longer than ten meters, and the maximum distance between the funnels shouldn’t be greater than twenty meters.

Table: diameter of gutters and pipes depending on the area of the slope

Square Square (m 2)	Quantity drainage pipes	The diameter of the gutter	Diameter drainage pipe
60–100	2	115	87
80–130	1	125	110
120–200	2	150	87
160–220	2	150	110

The aforementioned figures indicate that one riser with a pipe diameter of at least 115 mm is needed for every 100 m 2 of roof slope. Nonetheless, aesthetics should be considered when placing discharge pipes, and a gutter must be installed in compliance with all regulations. Thirty percent of the area of the superstructures’ walls should be added to the chimney roof in the case of chimneys, ventilation ducts, and other superstructures to the slope’s calculation area.

Calculation of components

The load on the roof frame and the required connecting components must be determined:

1. We calculate how many angles for gutters are required – their number is equal to the number of roof angles. Next, we calculate how many segments of the gutters are needed for installation. To do this, the value of the roof perimeter is divided into 3 (the standard size of the stiff cut is 3 meters) and rounded the most. After the installation of gutters, the excess is simply cut off.
2. We calculate the number of plugs and connectors for gutters. In the case when the drainage system is closed, the number of connectors is equal to the number of segments of the gutters. The plugs in this case are not required. With an open system, the number of connectors is less than the number of segments per 1 pc. The plugs are installed on the ends of the gutters.
3. We consider the required number of drain pipes. To do this, we multiply the distance from the gutter by the number of points of the discharge and divide by the length of the standard pipe segment (usually also 3 m).
4. We evaluate the total mass of the system taking into account the pressure of water and snow. It should correspond to the carrying capacity of each mounting point, which is standardly about 75 kg. With an insufficient number of points of fastening, the gutter can be destroyed under the influence of overweight, since the load will act at a particular point, and not be distributed along the entire length of the gutter.

DIY drainage from improvised materials

Use a one and a half- or two-liter plastic container that satisfies the following specifications for the construction of a drain system:

• the same size and shape;
• flat cylindrical surface (various patterns on the surface lead to the accumulation of dirt and overlapping the drain channel);
• Dense opaque walls. There are no special requirements for the color, but for aesthetic reasons it is better to use opaque container, as it hides the gathered dirt;
• Lack of labels. Over time, they will still be peeled off and additionally clog the site.

Because there will be a lot of marriage during manufacture, when assembling the drain system, use the excess material.

Equipment and supplies needed to create drainage out of plastic bottles:

• cutting tool;
• construction stapler and brackets;
• steel rod or wire for attaching to the roof;
• electric drill;
• electric sales;
• sealant. Since this design is temporary, its use is not necessary, and the assembly time will increase greatly.

The assembly is done in two steps: first, the gutters are made and installed, and then the plums are made and installed.

The following steps are involved in the first stage, in turn:

1. Pre -cut the bottle bottom and throat, and cut the resulting cylinder along into two equal parts. Having made the required number of blanks, proceed to the collection of gutters.
2. Combine two blanks with each other using a stapler or wire through pre -made holes, while the overlap should be 1–1.5 cm.
3. The joints are sealing if desired.
4. Attach the following blanks in the same way until the gear is obtained by the required size.
5. Fasten the tread to the roof. This can be done with wire, while be sure to keep the slope towards the drain pipe.

Drain pipe assembly and installation:

1. The drain funnel is made, for this the throat from the bottle is cut off and the hole of the desired diameter in the wall is cut out.
2. The funnel is attached to the gutter.
3. A drain pipe is made, for which the bottom and part of the neck are cut off in the bottle so that the narrowed part remains. The blanks are inserted into each other and fixed with a stapler.

Such a plastic system has the benefit of being inexpensive and simple to assemble. Under typical conditions, the system operates effectively. The fact that its service is limited to a maximum of 12 months is a drawback.

How to make a drain of tin or thin -leafy metal

One major disadvantage of galvanized steel sheets, despite their widespread use and low cost, is that they may distort the gutter when ice and snow are mechanically removed.

Galing can withstand high levels of precipitation in the middle lane as well as the frigid temperatures found in the north. Self-manufacturing uses a 0.7 mm thick galvanizing sheet.

The drain is gathered in multiple phases:

1. Marking is performed and the workpieces are cut out.
2. The longitudinal edge of the workpiece bends.
3. Cylinders or semi -cylinders bend the rollers. It is possible to bend the elements without the use of rollers, for which the sheet is wrapped around the pipe until the edges are conquered, which are connected using a folder seam.
4. The funnel is made of three parts interconnected – a cone, rim and a glass.
5. If the drain pipe consists of several elements, then one of their ends is narrowed. And to restrict the planting of one element in another, restrictive rings are performed, for which the wire is used.

Video: how to bend leaf metal, galvanizing at home

How to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes

When making a precipitation drainage system, the sewer pipeline drainage system is a very cost-effective choice. Its benefits include longer service life, ease of installation, and dependability—all of which outlast those of a comparable metal or PVC system. You can extend the life of the drains to ten years or longer if you complete the efficiency of efficiency, choose the right material, and make any additional repairs on time. Sewer pipes come in various varieties:

1. Pipes are gray. These are the most common pipelines. The manufacturer recommends using them for the installation of systems indoors, since the material from which these pipelines are made is excellent at positive temperatures, but not adapted for working in the cold. Plus to this, pipelines have low strength and are quickly destroyed at high loads. Of these pipes, the water disposal system can be made only in places where the winter is rather warm. It is also recommended to perform frequent cleaning of gutters from ice and snow, as they are very sensitive to mechanical loads.
2. Pipes are white. Similarly with the previous modification, they are used to install internal sewage. They differ only in that they can withstand higher temperatures and have very good noise -absorbing properties. The rest of the characteristics are the same as that of gray pipelines. The system from these pipelines will also last in a warm climate for a long time, but with very high frosts and sharp temperature changes will quickly become unusable.
3. Red -colored pipeline. It is these pipes that are used to lay sewage on the outside of the premises. They have thicker walls than white and gray analogues. The properties of the material allow this pipeline to perfectly withstand rather low temperatures and high pressure. Therefore, red pipes are ideal for the manufacture of drains that cope well with snow and ice load. But in hot climate under the influence of solar radiation, they quickly destroy.

Finding the appropriate pipeline section is quite simple; all you need to do is consider the slope and size of the roof. This protocol has been implemented:

• The area of ​​the slope up to 50 m 2 – a pipeline with a diameter of 80 mm is required;
• The area of ​​the ramp is up to 125 m 2 – it is necessary to use pipes with a diameter of 90 mm;
• Skut area over 125 m 2 – drains should have a diameter of 100 mm.

The size of the gutters dictates the dimensions of the remaining components, including the bell, adapter, and funnel.

The following steps are involved in installing a plastic drain on your own:

1. Two brackets are mounted on the edges of the frontal board and the thread stretches. Tilt. And also take into account the fact that the overhang should partially overlap the tier so that the water falls directly into its central part.
2. The rest of the brackets are installed on the intended line.
3. For the manufacture of gutters, the pipeline cuts it along the long side. The easiest way to attach the pipeline to the board, mark the upper part using a thread and saw it along the line with a grinder or a jigsaw.
4. In exactly the same way, a cut is made on the other side of the pipeline.
5. Connected using self -tapping screws. Apply to joints sealant. The main thing is not to pull the fasteners in order to compensate for the temperature expansion of the material.
6. The manufactured gutter is installed on the brackets. In order to avoid turning the gutters under the influence of solar radiation, its edges are fixed to the brackets or the struts are installed along the entire length.
7. Next, the installation of spilling pipelines is performed.
8. Since the drain pipeline is attached to the surface of the wall, and the gutter to the cornice, then a distance of about 0.2–0.8 m is formed between them. For a smooth connection of the drain of the gutter and pipes, the knee is used at an angle of not more than 45 0 . If the distance is more than 80 cm, the required length of the required length is used for the connection. When using self -tapping screws, the installation site must be compacted with a rubber washer or sealant.
9. The mounting of the drainage pipelines is carried out by brackets with clamps with a step of 1 m.
10. A champion is attached to the lower end of the pipeline, which directs the flow of water directly to the water collectors or to the sewer system. The distance from the wall to the cut of the drive should be at least 30 cm.
11. A plug is installed into the end of the highest part of the gutter.

Video: how to cut a sewer pipe into two parts

When to start the installation of the system

The drainage system should be developed at the time of house design because it is crucial to preventing damage to the building’s supporting structures. Furthermore, the system installation is completed prior to the application of roofing material in compliance with the regulatory construction documentation. However, actuality reveals that these conditions are rarely met. Selecting whether to fasten the gutters on the frontal board, the crate, or the cornice is crucial. The frontal board fasteners are the most widely used; alternative techniques for installing drains in individual construction are hardly ever employed.

How to install a drain if the roof is already covered

Frequently, the roofer anticipates being able to tear multiple coating sheets once the job is finished in order to attach gutter brackets to the rafters. However, typically this cannot be accomplished without taking off the roofing material’s fasteners. Patches must be installed in their place if the fasteners are disassembled.

Naturally, there are methods to stay clear of these issues. One of them involves removing fasteners without dents by putting in a slope of soft wood beneath the roof material. They behave more easily if the roof is slate. A wooden beam is placed within the wave, and gutter brackets are fastened through the slate and the inserted beam.

These brackets are not visible because the toss is attached to brackets that are currently for sale from below. Installing them at intervals of 40–70 cm guarantees adequate strength even under heavy snow and ice loads.

Installing brackets on rafters or crates requires them to bend in order to position the gutter correctly in relation to the roof’s slope.

Video: Installation of drainage gutters on the finished roof

Rules for installing external and internal ghost

Walls, foundations, and basements may flood if the drainage system’s installation guidelines are not followed. The easiest directions to follow in order to prevent this are as follows:

1. External gutter is installed with a bias of 1%.
2. The external gutter should interrupt at least three times. In the case when, due to the complex geometry of the roof, this rule cannot be made, it is necessary to install another drain pipe. But its installation is best performed at the outer angles of the walls.

The proper arrangement of the water flow’s direction is the most important component of the drainage system. It should not merge at the entrance door locations or next to the main paths, as this can result in a good layer of ice forming in the winter, which can cause serious injuries.

Depending on the slope’s size, it’s also critical to specify the intended external gutter slope. In the event that the roof’s slope exceeds 12 meters, two drainage systems must be installed in addition to the slope in both directions.

The cornice is frequently not in a horizontal plane, so this must be taken into consideration when calculating the gutter’s slope.

Another weakness in the pitched roof compared to the flat is the so-called yendova. The internal joint of the roof slopes is the most vulnerable to water flow pressure, increasing the possibility of water seeping under the roof in this location. As a result, extra care must be taken with the drainage from the apples, and internal gutters must be installed there to delay moisture buildup and remove it outward, preventing water from getting into the roof. It is fastened to a crate or the plank flooring, which should extend 40 cm beyond the internal gutter’s axis. There are various stages to the actual process:

1. On a crate or plank flooring, you need to nail two bars with a step of 5-10 cm. There should be a small gap to ensure ventilation between the bars and the doom.
2. Net the crate, the ends of the wooden bars bring to the axles of the gutter.
3. Strengthen the main crate in the yendova, for which to nail a few more bars.
4. Drive two wooden bars between a doom in a place where there is a free space.
5. Bring the ends of the bars in the middle of the inner gutter, squeeze them.
6. Bend the gutter so that the bend angle is slightly larger than the angle.
7. Put the gear from the cornice overhang in the direction from top to bottom.
8. Consolidate using metal brackets.

Methods for fastening gutter

Gutter fastening can be accomplished with brackets and clamps.

Techniques for attaching brackets:

1. Mounting on a frontal board is the simplest method used when the roof is already covered. This type of bracket is used for gutters made of plastic. And to ensure strength in the brackets, power ribs are provided.
2. Fastening on the rafters – the method is used for large areas of slopes to the flooring of the roof with a step of rafters no more than 60 cm. In this case, brackets with an extension cord are used, which is the bracket and is attached to the raft.
3. Fastening on the wall – in the absence of a frontal board and access to the rafter legs, the fastening of the gutters is performed to the walls using crutches and hairpins.
4. Fastening on a crate – with a step of rafters exceeding 60 cm, the fastening of the gutter is performed using a large length bracket, if the roof is made of metal tile or ondulin. Or use combined brackets in the case of the use of bitumen tiles.

Step	Description
1	Plan the layout of your drainage system, considering the slope for proper water flow.
2	Excavate trenches along the planned route of the drainage pipes.
3	Install the main drainage pipe in the trenches, ensuring it slopes downward towards the desired outlet.
4	Connect additional pipes and fittings as needed to extend the drainage system.
5	Backfill the trenches carefully to secure the pipes in place.
6	Test the drainage system by flushing it with water to ensure proper functionality.
7	Securely cover the trenches with soil and restore the area to its original condition.

A sensible approach to shield your house from water damage and preserve its structural integrity is to install a drainage system on top of your roof. Rainwater runoff is kept away from the walls and foundation, avoiding possible problems like basement flooding and erosion around the house.

Make sure you have a clear plan in place before starting the do-it-yourself installation. Examine your roof’s design to ascertain where gutters and downspouts should be placed. To maximize the effectiveness of your drainage system, take into account variables such as the average rainfall in your area and the slope of your roof.

Choose materials that will last and work well for your drainage system. Because they are lightweight and resistant to corrosion, PVC and aluminum gutters are popular options. Moreover, spend money on high-quality downspouts that can effectively divert water away from your house.

Make sure that gutters and downspouts are attached securely and in the right alignment during the installation process. For efficient water flow, make sure they slope in the direction of the downspouts using leveling tools. Joints and connections should be properly sealed to avoid leaks, which over time can reduce the system’s efficiency.

Your drainage system’s lifespan can be extended with regular maintenance. Regular cleaning of gutters and downspouts is necessary to keep them clear of debris and avoid clogs, especially in the fall when leaves and twigs build up. Look for any indications of wear or damage, and fix things quickly to save money on more expensive fixes later.

Installing and maintaining a well-thought-out drainage system takes time, but it also protects your home’s landscaping and foundation while giving you peace of mind in the event of heavy rains. An investment in the longevity and weather resistance of your house is a well-functioning drainage system.

Video on the topic

Installation of the drainage system with your own hands Alta-profile

Installation of drain pipes with your own hands

Installation of the drainage system (drain) with your own hands