DIY gutter installation: Rules for fastening, assembly and installation of PVC systems

Gutter installation is essential to keeping your roof in good working order and shielding your house from water damage. If you install PVC gutter systems yourself, they’re a strong and portable choice—as long as you follow the proper instructions. In addition to preventing problems like leaks and structural damage, proper installation guarantees efficient water drainage.

The most important guidelines for installing gutters yourself center on correctly positioning, assembling, and fastening the PVC parts. For the gutters to withstand weather and the weight of collected water, they must be firmly fastened to your roofline. Stability can be preserved by using the right fasteners and making sure they are spaced out regularly along the gutter’s length.

PVC gutter systems are assembled by fitting together the different parts, which include downspouts, joints, corners, and gutter lengths. Carefully following the manufacturer’s instructions is essential to guaranteeing a good fit and seal between these parts. This keeps leaks from happening and guarantees that the system is getting enough water.

PVC gutter installation requires careful consideration of the gutter’s location and slope. To guarantee that water drains efficiently and doesn’t pool, gutters should have a small slope toward the downspouts. This slope is achieved during installation through careful measurement and alignment, guaranteeing that water runs off the house and foundation.

The specifics of the construction of the drain

Polyvinyl chloride gutters differ slightly structurally from their metal counterparts and prototypes. Similar components are used in the sets produced by industry to mount the horizontal and vertical branches of systems. The process of assembly and installation involves the same number of steps and a comparable order.

However, a particular feature of products with a polymer basis is strictly taken into account in the production and installation of drainage "designers" made of PVC. This is a typical size inconsistency that appears when the background temperature fluctuates. When heated, plastic components can expand linearly and cool to their original geometric limits.

Naturally, the drain meant for street work will occasionally be cooled by winter and heated during the sweltering summer. The lengthening and shortening will occur after the temperature changes. Polymers have intrinsic linear movements, which are difficult to interfere with and unnecessary. All you have to do is adjust to them. T.e. consider the specified attributes in system design and construction.

Specific connecting and compensating parts are released for the construction of PVC drain contours. They enable the system’s primary components to extend and contract for the number of cycles specified by the manufacturer without undergoing deformation or damage. Their system accounts for the potential for some movement followed by a return to the starting point.

When attaching a PVC drain to the roof, polymer products have an additional crucial feature that needs to be considered in addition to the previously mentioned ones. This is a propensity for long, unsupported sections to sag and distort.

The installation of holders beneath fairly flexible plastic gutters must be done no more than 60 centimeters in order to prevent them. If not, the horizontal sections between the brackets will give way from the weight of the precipitation and from gravity. In the event of a frost, the accumulation of dirt and stagnant water in the deflections can cause the polymer groove to plunge.

"We break down the key guidelines for assembly, installation, and fastening in this how-to guide for DIY PVC gutter installation. Homeowners will learn how to safely and successfully install their own gutter systems, guaranteeing effective rainwater management and protection for their properties, starting with selecting the appropriate materials and working through step-by-step installation procedures."

Stages of assembly and installation of the drainage system

The PVC element drain is constructed following a defined procedure. Generally speaking, the following kinds of work are included in the algorithm for installing the drain circuit:

  • Design. Compilation of the simplest scheme with the selection of the optimal size of the system and calculating the number of main parts necessary for the device, and fasteners.
  • Assembly and installation of the water intake of. Among her gutters and funnels taking atmospheric precipitation, collecting them from the roof and guiding them into drainage risers.
  • Assembly and installation of water supply. T.e. drainage risers guiding an organized stream to a specific section of the blind area or in a storm sewer.

From top to bottom, the gutture device is manufactured exclusively to order. This indicates that the device and connecting the drainage risers come first, followed by the installation of water receivers. The system’s technological features and the technical properties of the material used in its production require strict adherence to the replacement stages.

Straighten design rules

In order to ensure that the contour operates normally and that atmospheric water can be removed without obstruction, technological requirements pertaining to drain construction must be met during project development. In order to accomplish this, you should address the following queries beforehand:

  • The optimal gutters configuration. Gable roofs are traditionally equipped with two separate grooves, four -sized structures are equipped with a continuous circuit of gutters arranged around the perimeter. In the construction of the latter, angular connecting parts will be required.
  • The number of risers. Every 12 m of the polymer gutter should be equipped with one riser. If the length of the gutter, usually focused on the length of the cornice, is more than 12 m, you need two risers with conventional water intake funnels and also compensating funnel.
  • The use of compensating funnels. They are used in several cases: a) in the construction of gutters with a length of more than 12 m, b) for technical obstacles to the expansion, for example, closely located walls of neighboring buildings, c) when the closed drainage system is arranged around the roof perimeter.
  • The choice of gutter holders. In installation, long or short hook -shaped brackets are used. Long are attached to the crate until the coating is laid, the short ones are fixed on the frontal board at any time, including after the roof device.
  • Compliance with the slope of the gutters. Depending on the brand of the system, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is indicated from 2 to 5 mm, distributed to 1 linear ms of water intake. The slope is formed towards the water collection funnel by installing the brackets with an altitude displacement.

The location of the risers must be determined early in the design process. They shouldn’t detract from the composition outside. The ideal choice for positioning them in the building’s corners. If it is more convenient to make a storm sewer outlet in the middle of the wall or in a niche made by a baycam, then it is definitely possible to place it there.

The only thing left to do is attempt to remove the risers from the pedestrian pathways that pass by, the foundation’s ventilation outlets, and the basement entrances if the atmospheric water discharge is intended to reach the blind area.

The people who designed the framework buildings’ roof drainage systems It will take some more work to find a solution to the drain riser placement issue. They can be fastened to the private, but they must be restricted to the vertical drainage branches to the frame’s supporting frame. By analogy, the masters were making fun of the siding-lining house.

Recommendations for calculating the elements of the drainage

Determine how many parts are needed to construct the drainage system on an individual basis. Nowadays, common designs and roof designs that are too similar are being avoided in private construction. Nonetheless, a computed template is available to provide an overview of how the calculations are carried out.

A drain for a gable roof with slopes up to 12 m long is calculated using the maximum simple scheme. Assuming this is precisely the case for us, the following will be necessary:

  1. GOLOBA. You need to buy them with a meter according to the lengths of the cornices. Nothing to interfere with a linear temperature expansion of the gutters, because the expansion of 2.5 mm from each edge can not be taken into account.
  2. Traglobes connectors. If we take into account that their length is 3 m, then each line of 12 m will require 3 connecting elements.
  3. Two funnels. One for each drainage groove.
  4. Brackets. The number of hooks is calculated by the elementary division of the length of the cornice into equal segments, each of which up to 60 cm. Before dividing from both edges of the cornice, 5 cm retire.
  5. Additional brackets. For a funnel located near the corner of the house, one additional holder will be required, for a funnel in the center of the wall – two.
  6. Four plugs for grooves. Pair for each branch.
  7. Two upper and lower knees for the construction of the excretion of risers.
  8. Two segments of the pipe for connecting the knees. They are used if the width of the cornice overhang exceeds 25 cm. The dimensions of the segments are determined by the fact at the place of work, and the cut is made in the same place. If the cornice of the roof is less than 25 cm, the knees simply attach to each other.
  9. Pipes for the riser. Determined by the distance from the cornice to the ground, minus the lengths of the drainage, drain and another 20 – 40 cm – this is the indentation from the earth"s surface.
  10. Brackets for attaching risers. Two mandatory: one is installed near the lower knee, the second near the drain from the drainage riser. The rest are installed near each connection of the drain pipes, but at least after 1.5 m.

A comparable technique is used to calculate the components of a germinum system for a home with an attic. They also take action when the drain is set up for multi-tiered pitched buildings, but each slope’s computations are done independently.

However, the computation of the quantity of components and fasteners required for the hip roof and semi-vapor will be notably more challenging. Because two compensating connectors and at least four angular parts are required for their arrangement. Similar to linear individual sections, compensatory funnels and connectors are used on the same principle. Nevertheless, no matter how long the largest cornice is, every closed circuit has features to account for movement.

The diameter of the future system must be chosen during the design and calculation stages. There are multiple sizes of collecting drain details available to guarantee the necessary amount of atmospheric water is removed without spilling over the edge. A precisely chosen size will also prevent the purchase of an excessively large structure, which would look clunky and cost more than a more affordable option for the given dimensions.

As per the technological guidelines for drainage, a roof measuring 1 m² should accommodate a cross-section of 1.5 cm² for the drain pipe. For our middle strip, this is the average conditioned coefficient. The indicator is 1.5 times larger in the southern areas.

Determining the portion of the roof that is processed by a single funnel that has a riser attached to it is the first step in the skillful selection of the drainage structure’s team sizes. For instance, by computing the slope’s area using our example.

It will be necessary to divide the slope’s area by 1.5 in order to determine the drainage riser section’s computational value. Generally speaking, this value should be rounded slightly in the direction to determine the ideal drainage size.

In actuality, a private house’s slope rarely covers more than 80 m². As a result, the calculations are not too concerned; instead, they use an average of Ø pipe for a riser of 100 mm, with variations for roofs of varying areas in both directions.

The construction of the water intake

Using a particular example, we will examine the assembly and installation procedures of the PVC drainage system. This example shows how long metal gutter brackets are used to install the drain following coating application. T.O. Cement tiles are installed on the roof, providing a chance to blatantly remove the bottom row and raise the tiles that are placed on top.

Assume that a gable structure will be equipped with two distinct slopes. The pedimon overhangs are 50 centimeters wide, and the cornice slope is 12 meters long. The riser that is attached to the funnel is positioned 10 cm from the corner. In order to achieve this, we subtract these same 10 cm and the width of the pedimental overhang, which is 50 cm, from the cornice’s edge.

We will first prepare the installation of the long brackets:

  1. We will make a preliminary fitting. The extreme holder will attach to the place of the upcoming installation. At the same time, we will install a rule or a regular rail directly on the slope. Between the rule and the bent part of the hook should remain 2 cm.
  2. We mark the folding point. In addition to the above condition, there is one more: the edge of the roofing should block the groove by at least a third. As soon as they found a point that meets both conditions, we apply a label on the bracket leg.
  3. Find the slope to the water collection funnel. If, for example, the linear meter of the cornice should be tilted by 3 mm, multiply them by 12 m, we get 36 mm. This is the difference in the height of the bends of the extreme hooks. If, due to the large width of the pedimental overhang, the funnel is removed from the edge by almost a meter, then 33 mm will be enough for the slope.
  4. We draw the fold line. To do this, the brackets in the amount required for the arrangement of one slope are laid out in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. The point point from the hook funnel should be higher by 3.6 cm of the gutter point near the funnel.
  5. We numb the hooks that have passed the markings.
  6. We flex the gutter holders. In this case, it is better to use a special gypical device to optimize accuracy. You can bent for lack of a vice, trying not to damage the anti -corrosion shell.
  7. We fasten two extreme brackets to the crate. Extreme holders must retreat from the edge of the roof by 15 cm.
  8. We pull one or two control fishing lines between them. One must indicate the bottom without fail, we use the second optional to designate the upper point of the hooks, for example.
  9. Set ordinary hooks according to the distance between them and the lines indicated by the fishing line.

Now that the most important step has been finished, gutters and funnels need to be ready for installation. In order to accomplish this, we are once more trying on the gutter section where the drain riser will be connected via the funnel. To precisely locate where to drill the hole beneath the gutter, we placed a plastic funnel on it.

Without taking the funnel off, mark the hole’s outbreak with a marker. Next, utilizing the appropriate crown, the hole is stabbed in the groove in accordance with the mark. A hack can be used to create a hole beneath the funnel. Sandpaper is required to clean any drunk openings or the backwater’s edges.

The funnel will be installed on the gutter as it should be, and its snapping sides will hold it in place. Apply a 5 mm strip to the inside of the funnel around the pipe prior to installation. Around the holes, two strips that are similar are applied. In the event that a compensating funnel is used, settings are made in accordance with the divisions associated with the ambient temperature on the installation day.

A section with a funnel is used to begin installing the gutter on the bracket. Connectors are used to join the gutter’s sections together. Five millimeter stripes of glue are applied to the gutter’s inner and outer edges from the inside as well as the outside.

Installing and attaching all of the gutter’s components to the brackets comes first. We are legally allowed to attach the plugs before the gutters are assembled. Prior to installation, the adhesive composition is also applied internally to the plugs.

The device of the drainage riser

Assembling the transition from the horizontal portion of the drain to the vertical riser is the first step in building the vertical portion of the system. Connecting the upper and lower knees is how it is collected for roofs with narrow cornices up to 25 cm. Owners of buildings with broad cornices will face a more expansive front of work.

Let’s get together and examine the following phase of the drain’s construction:

  1. We attach the upper knee to the funnel pipe, applying a strip of glue to it along the connection line at a distance of about 1 cm.
  2. We carry out another fitting. We apply the lower knee to the installation site on the wall. The ruler rub the distance between the knees. We note the position of the lower knee.
  3. We determine the real length of the connecting segment, adding to the distance between the knees the height of the upper knee pipe, on which the segment will be worn, and the height of the oncoming element of the lower knee.
  4. We cut the connecting segment according to the obtained dimensions. We clean the cut.
  5. Collect the transition and mark the point of the upper clamp for the drain pipe. She should be immediately under the lower knee. We mark the mounting point and again separate the lower knee and the connecting pipe from the upper knee.
  6. We install the clamp by fixing it as it should be fixed according to technical rules on the wall from a specific type of building material.
  7. We collect the transition, now already fixing its components with glue. We apply the glue composition with strips of 5 mm at a distance of about 1 cm from the edges.
  8. We note the points of installation of clamps for the drainage riser, not forgetting that the lowest should be located above the drain. The pipes of the polymer drain are connected by couplings, under each of which a clamp should be installed.
  9. We attach the riser details, moving down from top. We connect with couplings, leaving 1 – 1.5 cm in the bells for free linear expansion of pipes.
  10. We tighten the clamps of the riser not too tightly, the pipes should have the opportunity to move up/down slightly.
  11. We fasten the drain to the lower pipe with glue. If there is a desire to drain, can be fed with a hacksaw on top.

It is not required to connect the riser and drain in case rainwater removal is intended for a storm sewer. In these circumstances, the pipe may terminate exactly above the water sewage tray, 5 to 10 cm below the surface.

It is highly advised to install protective nets in the shape of a crab on a funnel or to overlap with a grate to prevent the obstruction of the system above.

With the correct equipment and know-how, installing PVC gutter systems can be a simple do-it-yourself task. In order to guarantee longevity and efficient water drainage from your roof, proper fastening is essential. Make sure you adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations for gutter placement and spacing when fastening them. This guarantees that the system keeps working at its best over time and helps prevent sagging.

PVC gutter assembly requires properly sealing joints and fastening sections together. To stop leaks, use the PVC cement or sealant that is meant for gutter systems. Maintain a consistent slope in the direction of the downspouts by being careful to align sections correctly and to use supports as needed. This lowers the possibility of clogging or overflow and guarantees effective water flow.

Downspout placement should be considered during installation in order to divert water away from the foundation of your house. Using brackets or straps, firmly fasten downspouts to the wall so they can withstand the elements and the weight of the rain during periods of heavy precipitation. Installing downspouts correctly stops erosion and possible water damage to your home.

To extend the lifespan and efficiency of PVC gutter systems, regular maintenance is necessary. Regularly remove debris, such as leaves and twigs, to avoid blockages. Every year, check joints and fasteners for wear or damage, and replace or repair any damaged parts. Your home’s curb appeal can be improved and water damage can be effectively prevented with a PVC gutter system that you installed on your own.

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Denis Shcherbakov

Professional roofer with 20 years of experience. I know everything about the installation, repair and maintenance of various types of roofs. I will be happy to share my knowledge and experience with you.

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