Installing gypsum plasterboard yourself is a flexible and affordable way to improve the interior of your house. Gypsum plasterboard, commonly referred to as sheetrock or drywall, is a widely used material because of its smooth finish and ease of installation. Whether you’re building from the ground up or remodeling an existing space, being proficient with gypsum plasterboard will save you both money and time.
Acquire the following supplies and tools before starting: utility knife, measuring tape, gypsum plasterboard sheets, screws, drill or screwdriver, joint compound, joint tape, and taping knife. Plasterboard should be measured and cut precisely to fit your walls or ceiling. This will ensure a snug fit. Carefully handling the sheets will guarantee a more seamless installation process and avoid needless damage.
The versatility of gypsum plasterboard is one of its main benefits. It offers a smooth surface for painting or applying wallpaper to walls and ceilings. Starting at one corner and working your way across, start screwing the plasterboard sheets to the framing. Make sure all of the sheets are firmly attached to avoid any sagging or gaps.
The next step is to fill and tape the joints after the plasterboard is in place. Using a taping knife, cover the joints between the plasterboard sheets with joint compound after covering them with joint tape. To get a smooth surface, smear the compound. Before smoothing the compound, let it dry completely. In order to achieve a finish that looks professional, this step is essential.
Check for flaws on the surface after sanding, and if necessary, apply a second coat of joint compound. For a smooth and even surface, sand once more after it has dried. At last, your gypsum plasterboard is ready to be primed, painted, or wallpapered to fit your desired style.
Installing gypsum plasterboard yourself can be a lucrative project that improves the interior of your house and saves you money on labor expenses. A polished finish that increases the value and comfort of any space can be achieved with the correct equipment, supplies, and methods. Enjoy the process of using this adaptable building material to transform your space; take your time and pay close attention to every step.
- Where you can install GKL ceilings
- Advantages and disadvantages of drywall ceilings
- How to choose material for the ceiling
- DIY gypsum plasterboard: step -by -step instructions
- Preparation of the premises
- Project development
- Calculation of materials
- The marking of the base
- Assembly of the frame
- Drywall sheathing
- Finish
- The choice of lighting
- Video on the topic
- drywall ceiling, installation sequence, all secrets. Plasterboard Ceiling.
- Gypsum -plate ceiling. Patch ceiling made of drywall. Stages of the construction of the ceiling.
- How to make a drywall ceiling with your own hands
Where you can install GKL ceilings
Drywall is a common building material used for ceiling facing, installing interior partitions, and lining and aligning walls. It is made up of sheets with sturdy gypsum filler between thick layers of construction cardboard.
Buyers claim that drywall is a versatile and eco-friendly material. He helps to maintain a healthy microclimate in the space, does not release toxins, and resists burning. Equalizing different surface types is the primary function of drywall sheets.
You can install a drywall ceiling in practically any room:
- In private houses and apartments. You will get a perfectly even surface, hide the defects and unevenness of the black ceiling, easily plunge drywall, paint it or paste it with wallpaper;
- In commercial premises and offices. The suspended decision from the GCL reliably hides cables and pipes that pass on the ceiling;
- In cafes and restaurants. Stylish and spectacular single -level or multi -level ceilings made of drywall give the interior of dining rooms a modern and interesting look.
INAsselo: When installing suspended ceilings composed of drywall in a country home or apartment, keep in mind that the "CradleeT" finish option requires a minimum height of 5 to 10 sm. Thus, it is preferable to decline in KhrushcheVKi and in small rooms with ceilings from GCL.
Advantages and disadvantages of drywall ceilings
There are several advantages to the drywall ceiling:
- Popularity and accessibility. You can buy it in almost any construction store.
- The ability to install a gypsum plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Sheets are cut with an ordinary stationery knife or hacksaw. To assemble the frame, it is enough to correctly calculate the required amount of fasteners and prepare a screwdriver.
- Environmental friendliness. There are no toxic substances in drywall sheets.
- Universality. GKL is suitable for creating a decoration with complex and non -standard forms.
- Relative strength. Compared to tissue or film stretch ceilings, drywall decoration is more resistant to mechanical stress.
- Fire resistance. Sheet material and frame for it are immune to high temperatures.
- Wide opportunities for hidden installation of engineering communications and electric wires.
However, the drywall ceiling has two significant flaws.
- The material is destroyed when in contact with moisture. Therefore, it is not recommended to be used in rooms with high air humidity (in bathrooms, pools, saunas).
- A rather complicated and long installation that does not tolerate errors. Violation of technology leads to the formation of cracks, damage to decorative decoration.
Important: Installing a GKL on the ceiling is not likely to be successful. In order to ensure a high-quality installation, two persons are required.
How to choose material for the ceiling
Consider the benefits and drawbacks of drywall ceilings before selecting a type of material. Its attributes and qualities have to meet your needs and standards.
- GKL – Classic gypsum sheets. Consist of soft and light cardboard, which is fixed on the surface of the gypsum.
Their standard measurements are as follows: length: 2000–3000 mm, width: 1200 mm, and thickness: 9–12 mm. Usually, 9 mm thick sheets are used so as not to put undue strain on the interactive ceilings and walls.
- Gloc – fire -resistant drywall sheets. In residential premises, this finishing material is practically not used. At the same time, it is widely used in commercial and industrial buildings for the decoration of communication mines and air ducts.
- GKVL – Moisture -resistant drywall. Designed for decoration of rooms with high humidity: bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchen and technical rooms.
- GKLVO – Innovative version of drywall sheets. Differs with immunity to humidity and high temperatures.
- GVL – Hypsy -fiber sheets. Cardboard is not used in GVL, gypsum is fixed and strengthened using special pulp waste paper.
- Arched GKL. Their main difference is the minimum thickness (6 mm). It is with the help of arched GKL that two -level gypsum plasterboard ceilings are created with backlighting.
High-strength drywall sheets with a fiberglass layer, insulation, or vinyl coating can also be used to decorate facades and other external structures.
DIY gypsum plasterboard: step -by -step instructions
There are various steps involved in installing a drywall ceiling in a private home or urban apartment.
Preparation of the premises
If the building in question is brand-new, the only thing left to do to get ready for hanging drywall from the ceiling is clear out construction debris. In the dwelling, you require:
- Remove all furniture from the room to ensure unhindered access to the builders to any ceiling point.
If completing the first step is not feasible, chairs, couches, and cabinets are covered with plastic film to keep dust out.
- Prepare the ceiling for decoration, removing traces of soot, mold, fungus, old plaster, paint and so on.
Project development
A basic pencil, a notebook leaf placed inside a cage, and a tape measure are required.
- Using a roulette, measure the length of each wall. If the room with protrusions, niches and others, measure them separately, after which we calculate the perimeter of the rooms.
- On a notebook sheet in a ratio of 1: 1 (cm: m) we make a drawing ceiling.
- On the resulting drawing we draw a frame diagram, mark the mounting places of the suspension. The following points are especially important:
- longitudinal profiles are attached with a step of 40 or 60 cm, depending on the weight of drywall sheets. The larger the mass of the GCL, the less often the step of the profiles. Experienced builders for drywall up to 9.5 mm thick are usually selected 60 cm, for thicker and heavy sheets – 40 cm;
- Installation of transverse profiles is performed with a step of 50 cm, since this figure is multiple of the length of the standard GKL;
- If between the longitudinal profiles a distance of 40 cm, then they are mounted on ceiling mounts. For transverse profiles, there will be enough "crabs". With a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles are also attached to the ceiling.
- In the drawing, we mark the electric wiring and installation sites of the lamps.
Calculation of materials
Should you be planning single-level gypsum plasters with backlighting, the area of the ceiling should correspond to the quantity of drywall. Measuring the room’s length and width and then adjusting the resultant values is sufficient.
The remaining task is to determine how many GKL sheets are needed. A plasterboard sheet has an area of 3.125 m² and a standard size of 1.25 x 1.25 m.
When a room has an area of 18 m², the ceiling needs to be 18: 3.125 = 5.76 GKL. Six sheets result from rounding this value to the nearest whole number.
The number of frame elements must now be determined:
- Guide profiles (NP). Installed along the perimeter of the room. Their length is 3 m. To calculate the quantity, the perimeter of the room divide by 3 m.
- Ceiling profiles (PP). They make a grille on which the sheets are attached. The number of profiles depends on the distance between them.
For instance, if a step is 60 cm and the room’s sides are 6 and 3 m, we would need to lay 4 rows of profiles longitudinally and 9 rows transversely. We require 17 pieces of PP for a standard profile length of 3 meters.
- Direct suspensions. Used to fasten guide profiles to the ceiling. Their installation is performed every 50-60 cm.
- For reliable fixation of longitudinal and ceiling profiles, “crabs” are used, the number of which is equal to the number of points of intersection of profiles.
The marking of the base
Markup of the base is the first step in installing drywall on the ceiling.
- On the plane of the black ceiling you need to find the lower point. To do this, in different places the rooms measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
- If the backlight is not planned, 50 mm down from the lowest point should be noted. If the project provides for the creation of a suspension system with backlight, then this distance should be at least 100 mm.
- Through the intended points draw a line around the entire perimeter of the room. Be sure to use the level.
- On the draft surface, the places of fastening of the longitudinal profiles are planned. Usually start from the wall with the window. The distance equal to the step of the installation of the metal bar is measured from the corner. The procedure is repeated until all the walls are marked.
- Make markings for transverse profiles. The algorithm of action is similar to the previous step.
- Plan the points of installation of suspensions.
Assembly of the frame
The assembly of the frame is the next step in making a ceiling out of GKL.
- Directing profiles are mounted around the perimeter of the premises. For better sound insulation of the structure on the outside of the NP, we recommend that you pre -stick a dampfer tape.
The initial fasteners are twisted 10 cm away from the corner, and the subsequent screws are twisted every 30 cm. The strength of the completed frame may suffer if the distance between the fasteners is widened.
Plates are installed and fastened to the base using self-tapping screws to reinforce the joints where the metal strips connect.
- Next, the suspensions are installed. For their attachment to the black ceiling, an anchor or dowel-samers are used. The mesh "mustache" of the suspensions bend down down.
- Using a fishing line or thin wire, create a layout of a ceiling plane. This is not necessary, but with the help of such a simple device you can better control the horizontal of the entire suspension structure.
4. Install longitudinal profiles. You must first insert yourself into the guides and fasten them with self-tapping screws. The strips are then fastened to suspensions. Lazer levels or stretched threads are used for horizontal control.
- Installation of "crabs". They are mounted on longitudinal strips fixed in the frame at the intersection of the details of the frame.
- Fastening of transverse profiles. Their ends are fixed in “crabs”, then the strips are attached to the suspensions.
The frame is prepared. Insulation is placed in the frame if heat or sound absorption is needed to compensate for the heat generated by the gypsum plating ceiling with backlight. For these uses, glass wool or mineral wool are typically utilized.
Drywall sheathing
The ceiling plasterboard needs to be brought into the room beforehand. By doing this, the material will be able to adjust to the characteristics of the room’s microclimate.
GKL is laid horizontally to avoid breaking the geometry and to prevent deformation. Cut the slab in accordance with the project on the day of installation. They undergo size adjustments, excavation, and hole cutting in order to achieve this.
A chamfer is cut at a 45-degree angle on edges that have been sharply cut with a clerical knife.
The frame two masters are attached with gypsum cardboard. The plate is lifted and pressed against the metal framework, leaving a 2 mm space between its border and the wall. Prior to being screwed into rows with the chosen step on the profiles, metiza is first screwed into the corners. The fasteners are positioned so that they do not face each other in adjacent rows. Using a screwdriver, they are twisted. In the GCL, the hat ought to be "drowned" a little. However, you are not allowed to twist since this could break the plate.
Finish
This is the last phase. How well-made and high-quality the suspension structure is determines how it will look.
- Gently eliminate all the bumps. Glue the joints with a sickle and plunge. Using a putty, also fill out all the damage and chips of the drywall sheet, dents remaining after twisting the meters.
- The first layer of putty should dry out well. Usually enough day for this.
- Swap the ceiling with the finish putty. Modern materials can be applied without preliminary priming.
Applying the leveling layer is the last step, and it is then worthwhile to run a small piece of sandpaper through it. Sealing tape is applied where drywall and walls meet.
The ceiling is prepared overall. The lamps still need to be installed and decorated.
As a finishing coat, a range of materials are employed, including wallpaper and regular paint.
- Painting. To get a perfectly even surface, bright and saturated color, paint the ceiling in two layers.
Apply the first in the direction of the window’s wall, and the second in the direction of the street light. The best tool for painting work is a roller.
- Decoration with wallpaper. From the point of view of technology, the gluing of the drywall ceiling does not differ from the decoration of any other plastered bases. For better adhesion of the material, it is better to pre -primer the surface.
- Decoration with decorative plaster. It is applied in the same way as the walls.
The choice of lighting
It is not practical to install a drywall suspended ceiling in the absence of designer lighting. It is possible to paint the standard ceiling structure with the same level of success.
Various backlighting options are used in practice.
I and the contour. There are two-level structures that use it. The first level to the second, and then the entire perimeter of the space, are where the light is directed from the bottom up.
Normal. The direction of the light is up and down. Such a scheme typically includes additional spotlights in addition to a large, exquisite lamp in the center.
Oversaw. Sporadic light streams parallel to the ceiling.
Figure. LEDs shine in a variety of directions, producing a range of optical effects.
Point. The hardest choice. In order to implement it, little lamps that resemble tiny luminous points are installed in addition to traditional LEDs.
The drywall ceiling backlight can be installed independently if the necessary knowledge and abilities are present. It is best to leave the solution to this issue in the hands of a qualified electrician if you lack electrical experience.
Installing DIY gypsum plasterboard can be a satisfying project for homeowners who want to improve their living areas. When compared to traditional plaster, this adaptable material has several advantages, including ease of handling and installation. You can accomplish professional-looking results without a lot of professional help if you know the steps and pay attention to a few important tips.
Gypsum plasterboard’s adaptability to a range of uses is one of its main advantages. Plasterboard is perfect for creating spaces that reflect your personal style because it can be shaped and sized to fit any type of wall, whether you’re building new or remodeling an old one. Its lightweight design makes handling easier and lessens the physical strain that heavier building materials can cause.
Prior to beginning your project, make sure you have the right equipment and supplies. This contains screws, jointing compound, measuring tape, gypsum plasterboard sheets, and a utility knife for accurate cutting. Making sure everything is ready in advance will speed up the installation process and reduce hiccups, enabling you to keep moving forward as you complete each step.
Achieving a professional finish during installation requires precision. To start, precisely measure and cut the plasterboard sheets to fit the dimensions of your wall. To ensure clean cuts, score the sheet with a straightedge and utility knife before snapping it along the line. Using screws, fasten the sheets to the wall or ceiling framework at regular intervals to maintain stability and stop them from sagging over time.
Jointing and finishing are the next important steps after securing the plasterboard. To strengthen the seams and stop them from cracking, apply jointing compound along the joints where sheets are joined and insert jointing tape. Using a trowel or putty knife, smooth the compound and feather the edges so they blend in perfectly with the surrounding surface. When the surface is smooth and ready for painting or wallpapering, lightly sand it.
In conclusion, DIY gypsum plasterboard installation is an affordable and doable way to improve the interior of your house. You can confidently take on this project and enhance your living area’s aesthetic appeal and functionality by adhering to these guidelines and suggestions. Gypsum plasterboard offers a versatile and easy-to-use solution for creating custom interiors with expert results, regardless of your experience level with do-it-yourself projects or if this is your first time taking on home improvement projects.
This post offers a thorough how-to for anyone considering DIY gypsum plasterboard improvements for their house. The essential characteristics of gypsum plasterboard, useful handling and installation advice, and a step-by-step breakdown to guarantee a successful project are all covered. Regardless of your level of experience, this guide will give you the skills and self-assurance to handle this adaptable material with ease.