How to make a roof on the extension: detailed step -by -step instructions

Building a roof for an addition is a useful and satisfying project that improves your home’s appearance and usability. A well-built roof enhances the overall appearance of your home and offers crucial protection from the elements, whether you’re expanding your porch, patio, or adding a new room.

Thorough planning is essential before beginning construction. Ascertain the roof’s design and composition first. Think about things like roof pitch, which has an impact on drainage, and the kind of roofing material that will work best for your climate and aesthetic tastes. This first step guarantees that your new roof blends in perfectly with your existing structure and sets the stage for a successful project.

After you have a well-defined plan, acquire all required supplies and equipment. Plywood or OSB sheathing, roofing felt, metal roofing panels or shingles, nails or screws, and the proper sealants are common roofing materials. A more seamless construction process is ensured and delays are reduced when everything is ready before work begins.

Assemble the extension’s framework before starting construction. Make sure the building is sturdy and able to bear the weight of the roof. Adjust or strengthen the current structure as needed to make room for the new roof. In order to guarantee long-term durability and structural integrity, this step is essential.

After preparing the framework, install the roof decking. This entails covering the framework with plywood or OSB sheathing. To give the roofing material a stable foundation, make sure the sheathing is securely fastened. To avoid any possible problems, pay attention to details like overlapping joints and using the right fasteners.

1. Assess the area and prepare the necessary materials.	2. Clear the extension roof of any debris or old roofing materials.
3. Install underlayment to protect against water infiltration.	4. Begin laying the roofing material from the bottom edge upwards.
5. Ensure each row overlaps the previous one for proper water drainage.	6. Cut and fit roofing material around vents, chimneys, or other protrusions.
7. Secure the roofing material according to manufacturer"s instructions.	8. Inspect the completed roof for any gaps or areas needing additional sealing.

Types of roofs of extensions

A single -sided roof of the extension to the house is the most common option. Such a roof has a simple rafter system, and the installation of the roofing is reduced to the sewing of a flat rectangle. In addition, a single-shifting extension looks good: because of simplicity, it is easily harmoniously fit into any architectural composition. It can also be made generally almost invisible if you mount the roof so that it is visually a continuation of the slope. So the extension with a single -sided roof will not look like a separate building, but as part of the house. The main thing is that the slope is not too long, otherwise there will be a bias of the composition, and the house will look disproportionate. A good example of a harmoniously extended single -to -shoe roof with extensions in the photo:

A flat roof is the second most popular choice. She benefits from the same advantages as a single-sided roof, with the exception that snow from a flat roof does not travel well, necessitating a higher calculated load and a more robust rafter system. However, modern houses look great with the extensions’ flat roof. Additionally, you can build a terrace there to enjoy the benefits of both an expanded living area and a relaxing spot to gaze.

Often, the roof of a veranda or attached canopy has arches in it. The roof of the house extension has an airy and elegant appearance that visually elevates the building without adding undue weight to the structure. Furthermore, wind and snow load because of the arched roof below’s streamlined form. Snow will usually slide off such a roof with a small radius of rounding without hanging around.

The extension’s gable roof is far less typical. In essence, this type of roof is utilized during the capital restructuring of the building, which occurs when the structure is enlarged and transformed from a rectangular to a Mr. In this instance, the pinch structure principle is applied to the integration of the gable roof with the house. The outbuildings with gable roofs that are built at the front or back of the house, like the porch, rather than the sides, have a nice aesthetic. The house thus gains a more intricate and well-proportioned silhouette.

Extensions with four-sided, dome hip roofs are uncommon. They are located far from all buildings and have complicated installations. However, during reconstruction, these roofs voluntarily overlap new house forceps, just like gables do. Additionally, designs with four or more slopes work well when you need to prevent a complex shape from expanding, like an M-shaped building that is located close to one of the house’s corners or a P-shaped building that covers three of the building’s walls.

Compared to the actual version, conical and domed roofs are more exotic. When the roof of the addition to the house should be as aesthetically pleasing as possible, roofs of this shape are created. Extension-bands are typically added to a building during major reconstruction to balance its appearance. Therefore, if a long, single-slot extension is intended for one side of the typical gable building, it can be completed with one or two decorative towers to visually balance the composition through height and element density.

4 Rules for choosing roofing material

When selecting roofing material to overlap the roof, keep the following four guidelines in mind to ensure that the addition blends in harmoniously with the rest of the building:

1. The coating of the roof of the building, which in shape and color is identical to coating the roof of the main house, always looks great.
2. For contrast, you can use the same material of the same color, but different types. For example, if the roof of the house is made of aluminum or copper fold, the extension can be blocked by a tile of the same metal.
3. Transparent roofs are perfectly combined with buildings in absolutely any style: from strict classics to rough constructivism or bold minimalism. This is often the best choice, since roofing materials of the same color, but bought at different times, may differ in shade. This is especially true for coatings made of thin -leafed steel and natural tile.
4. The contrast looks better than the failed attempt to "get into color". If you can’t buy material of an identical color, but a transparent roof is not suitable, it is better to block the roof of the extension with a coating of the same type as on the roof of the house, but of a different color. The main thing is that the colors are combined. So, the red roof at the extension can be made if the roof of the main building is brown, green, if blue, and vice versa.

These guidelines are not infallible, of course; architects frequently produce their own works of art that incorporate surface and material contrast. However, if you lack the necessary expertise or exquisite taste, it is best to just adhere to these guidelines. Even though your results won’t be spectacular, you will still have a lovely roof on the house addition.

"We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of building a roof for your extension in this guide. Every step, from setting up the roofing materials to readying the structure, is described in simple terms to ensure your project is finished successfully. Whether you’re expanding an existing space or adding a new room, this article tries to offer helpful advice and guidelines to make sure the roof construction is secure, long-lasting, and fits your needs."

DIY Road Roof of the extension: Detailed Instructions

As the most popular type of roof and the simplest for a novice to construct, we will go into great detail on how to make a single-toe roof for the extension using only your hands. As usual, let’s begin with the design and calculations.

Calculations and design of the roof of the extension

When building the extension’s roof, it’s critical to perform all required calculations and avoid working "by eye." If this method is acceptable—though unwelcome—for independent buildings, it is excessively dangerous for structures that are part of a house. Specifically, the outer wall of the house will sustain damage during the collapse of the extension’s roof, which typically carries. As a result, calculations are required, or even better, a complete project. The snow load on the roof is the first figure to compute.

Features of calculating the snow load on the extension

The weight of snow on the extension’s roof will be substantial if it does not continue the slope of the house’s roof. frequently even more than a house’s basic single-sloping or gable roof. This is because of the so-called "snow bags," which are snowdrifts that collect on the roofs of the extensions and originate behind the house’s wall. Consequently, in order to offset this increased load, the roof of a single-to-shoe extension frequently needs to be made extremely cold.

The recommendations in section 10 of SP 20.13330.2016 loads and influences are used to calculate the snow load. The following is the primary formula:

Values of CE and CT Extensions with non-rustic, opaque roofs will add up to one, so they can be left out. SG is dependent on the amount of snow in the house. The map establishes the area itself:

The amount of snow depending on the location will be equal to:

Snow areas	I	II	III	IV	V	VI	VII	VIII
SG, pr/m2	0.5	1.0	1.5	2.0	2.5	3.0	3.5	4.0

Which portion of this load will actually act on the roof is determined by the coefficient μ. If the height of the cornice or pediment and the highest point of the roof of the canopy determine the roof angle for separate single-shock and gable buildings, then the height of the extension depends first and foremost on these factors. Coefficient of determination μ It is computed using an intricate formula that occasionally causes the tabular snow load to increase:

Here, h is the maximum height drop of 8 meters; m1 is the coefficient; it is 0.3 for roof slopes under 20 ° and 0.4 for larger biases; m2 is an additional coefficient determined by the formulas in the following diagram; L1 and L2: The width of the house’s roof in meters and the extension, in meters, respectively.

Because the snow bag calculation is complex, it is occasionally skipped in favor of a snow load of S0 = 1.5 ·SG. This is incorrect because there can be a significant difference between the snow load being doubled or even tripled. However, this strategy is effective in the central and southern regions as long as the snowflaps on the extension’s roof are routinely cleaned following each significant snowfall.

Calculation of the rafter system of the extension

The roof’s rafter system is calculated following the determination of the snow load that the house extension’s roof is expected to support. Initially, the overall load—which includes the weight of the roof pie, the coating, and the snow layer—is taken into consideration when choosing the roof’s slope.

As the weight of the roofing pie and coating are nearly equal, the only thing you can adjust is the snow load, which will cause the roof’s inclination angle to change. Therefore, the minimum permitted angle of inclination of the roof is significantly higher under the same conditions for heavy roofing coatings—cement, sand, and natural tiles, shale—than when using light materials, especially self-supporting ones like corrugated board.

Select a rafter step next. It is best to figure it out using the load. But such calculations are not always possible when they build an extension roof to the house by hand. As a result, rafters are chosen in steps of 0.6–1 m for standard roofs. Increases to 1.1–1.2 m are acceptable for roofs of extensions with extremely steep slopes. Using this method, the distance between the rafters can be computed using a straightforward algorithm:

1. Choose a basic step, for example, 0.7 m.
2. The length of the extension cornice is divided one step to get a basic number of rafters. So, with an extension length of 15 m, it will take 15/0.7 = 21.43 rafters.
3. If the number of rafters turned out to be fractional, rounded in a large way.
4. To the rounded number of rafters (22 pieces) add another rafter leg and receive the final amount – 23 pieces.
5. The length of the extension is divided into the final number of rafters to get the final step of their installation. In our example, it turns out to be 15/23 = 0.65 m.

According to the table, the rafters’ section is chosen based on the building’s length and the installation step:

Step of rafters, m	Rraft length, m
	3	3.5	4	4.5	5	5.5	6
0.6	40 × 150	40 × 175	50 × 150	50 × 150	50 × 175	50 × 200	50 × 200
0.9	50 × 150	50 × 175	50 × 200	75 × 175	75 × 175	75 × 200	75 × 200
1.1	75 × 150	75 × 150	75 × 175	75 × 175	75 × 200	75 × 200	100 × 200

Typically, Mauerlat requires a beam measuring 100 x 150 mm, while crate, frontal, and pediment boards require a board measuring 25 x 100 mm or 25 x 150 mm. The kind of material determines the crate’s step.

Preparation for installation

All prepared lumber is carefully treated with antiseptics and fire retardants prior to installation. Rain-contaminated material cannot be used because it can cause the boards to rot. particularly if the addition is an open structure like a veranda, canopy, or other. In this instance, there will be a significant fog, so the boards will get damp.

The roof of a residential extension must be insulated. The insulation layer’s thickness ought to match the main house’s roof precisely. If a different kind of insulation is to be used for the extension’s roof, its thickness must be determined:

You must determine the area of the extension’s plain roof in order to install a roofing pie and coating. Since a single-sided roof is just an inclined version of a basic rectangle, its area can be computed as follows:

Steam and waterproofing are thought to be present in at least 150 mm. Displays are used to mount the insulation. The extra components’ lengths are measured along the extension’s roof’s length and width, with 150–200 mm of overlap between each strip.

Additionally, you’ll need to prepare an adequate supply of MZP, self-tapping screws, hairpins, corners, and other fasteners for installation. For an insulated roof, you will undoubtedly need silicone or polyurethane sealant, reinforcement tape to seal the joints of the vapor barrier, and waterproofing.

You also require the following fundamental tools:

• screwdriver;
• corner grinder;
• shock drill or punch and drill to them;
• construction level, roulette, pencil;
• construction square, metal line;
• electric saw or chainsaw;
• electrician;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• construction stapler;
• Key set;
• Sensor cord;
• Construction knife.

Additional tools might be required, depending on the type of roofing that is selected. For instance, you need to use a profiling machine or a manual leaf gage to bend the mounting locks at the metal edges before you can build a roof on a folding-sheet addition to your home. Also needed for the direct installation of the folding roof is the full complement of roofer-liner tools, which includes mandrels, kiyanka, and gypetic framework.

Installation of the rafter system

We will now go straight to the point and explain how to install a one-time roof on the extension. When the building’s walls or frame are installed, the structures ought to be fully prepared. When using concrete steel pipes as supports, they should be left in place for at least two weeks after installation. To acquire concrete, this time is required.

The rafter system device is the first step in installing the extension’s roof:

1. Mauerlat is laid on the supporting pillars or the load -bearing wall and fix it with corners or anchors.
2. On the wall of the house using a ruler and level, make a marking for the installation of a support board. Then, according to the marking, the board is attached to the wall with anchors in two places and check it for horizontal. If everything is correct, the support beam is finally attached to the wall.
3. The installation sites of the rafters are marked on the reference boards.
4. Two extreme rafters are installed first: they make drinks under the Mauerlat and a support board, align relative to each other and attach to the corners. The rafters must be in one plane.
5. Between the edge of the rafters on the overhang, a marginal cord is pulled to expose the overhang of the rest of the rafters.
6. Intermediate rafters are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones, making sure that they remain in the same plane. If a non -captive board is used to install the rafter system, then lumber is brought to the same size on the flight.
7. If the distance between the wall and the supporting wall or pillars is more than 4.5 m, then opposite the Mauerlat on the wall installed a second support board, which is associated with each rafter foot socket. The subsidal is attached at about 2/3 of the length of the rafters and as if propagates it. If this distance is more than 6 m, then a full -fledged strapping with puff, struts, racks is mounted.

It’s crucial to work carefully when installing a rafter system for the roof of the home addition. Since the steel corners bear the majority of the load when fastening boards and bars, they shouldn’t be very deep.

A roofing pie

Waterproof material is applied to the rafters. In order to prevent it from bursting, the waterproofing film is fixed without pulling. The film’s edges are secured with reinforced tape at the point of overloading. Waterproofing should extend 150–200 mm on the sides and reach the wall.

The counterparts’ bars are packed on top of the waterproofing along the rafters, which is necessary to ventilate the subcutaneous space. Additionally, the label boards are affixed to the context. The pediment’s crate is trimmed with its edges at the same height. Next, front-line boards are used to secure the waterproofing film to the crate after it has been bent. Any extra waterproofing is removed.

If the extension’s roof needs to be insulated, the insulation is installed in the space between the rafters, under the waterproofing. In order to prevent the rafter legs from acting as a cold bridge, bars are placed across them at a step of 0.8–1 m, and insulation is placed in between. Consequently, a layer of thermal insulation covers the rafters entirely, save for the locations where the internal frame’s bars attach to them.

A vapor barrier is affixed below the insulation using staples to the rafters or bars. It is constructed to measure 100–150 mm on the walls, and every joint, adjacent space, and fastener location is carefully glued with reinforced tape. Boards, drywall, or other comparable materials are used to sew the roofing pie after the steam bank is laid.

Laying roofing and adjacent to the roof of the extension to the wall

For some types of roofing materials, a dropper—a cornice bar—is fixed before the roofing is installed on the extension. All roofing types are installed from below, starting from the side that faces the direction of the wind. This implies that the roof must be laid starting in the north if the wind originates in the south most of the time. The features of the selected roofing material are taken into consideration when installing the roof of the extensions.

1. Corrugated board Fixed with an overlap in one wave on the side and with an overlap of 100-150 mm from above and below. For fastening, use roofing screws, screwing them through 1-2 waves into each beam of crate in the bottom of the profile. In the places of longitudinal overflow, the profile is attached to the top of the wave, in the places of the transverse – to the bottom of each wave.
2. Metal tile Fixed to the bottom of the wave according to the manufacturer"s scheme. On the first wave, the screws are screwed close to the edge, on the following, usually under the step. In places of side overflows, the metal tile is attached to the top of the wave.
3. Falitseal roof Fixed to Klyammer, connecting the paintings with each other by a fake lock. It is impossible to punch sheets of folding roofs with self -tapping screws – this is a gross mistake.
4. Before installation bitumen tile Lay the lining carpet. Then the starting gont is attached. The second and other rains are attached with a shift, naunge them with nails exactly along the line applied by the manufacturer. So the next layer will completely close the hats of the nails that attach the previous gon.
5. Ceramic and cement-sand tiles Fixed with galvanized screws and fixed with anti -white clamps. On gentle roofs, it is permissible to fix the tiles through a row, on steep fixes each tile in each row.
6. Ondulin fixed with complete nails, while at least 18 pieces should go to each sheet. Nails are driven into the top of the waves and covered with a protective cap. Below and in the middle, they are driven into each wave, ¼ and ¾ of the length of the sheet are clogged through a row. The longitudinal overlap is made in one wave, the transverse depends on the slope of the roof.
7. Profiled transparent materials (PVC, polycarbonate) are fixed using special mounts, as a rule, in the bottom of the wave, with the exception of the places of overlap. Before screwing the mounts, the sheets are necessarily drilled so that the diameter of the hole is larger. This is necessary to compensate for the temperature expansion.

A unique bar or self-adhesive adjustment tape on a bitumen basis is used to connect the extension’s roof to the wall. There are two methods for mounting the strips: with and without a thaw.

A 25–30 mm recess is ground through with a grinder when installing with a stroke in the wall at the level of the upper bent edge of the bar. The sede’s depth should enable it to begin at the plank’s edge without distorting into it. At least 150 mm should be the minimum height of the recess from the upper point of the extension’s roof. The adjacent bar is installed at the roof:

1. One of the wall -mounted angles of the adjacency plank is circled along the contour with a pencil.
2. Approximately in the center of the wall shoulder, holes are made every 600 mm with a shock drill. Their diameter should be less than the diameter of the roof screw.
3. The bar is removed, the holes are expanded with a drill with a large diameter so that they can be inserted into them and score a dowel.
4. The stroob is filled with sealant.
5. The bar is placed in place at the mark with a pencil, the upper bend in the strobe is trained and it is finally attached with roofing self -tapping screws.
6. The bar is attached to the roofing, retreating 10-15 mm from the beginning of the bend of the shoulder. For this, roofing screws are also used, which are screwed every 600 mm.

The adjacency bar is attached in a similar manner without trimming, with the exception that the sealant is applied to the upper face and wall near the wall shoulder rather than the sidelor. Next, a sealant is applied and a protective cornice is affixed slightly above the bar. Both approaches yield nearly identical node reliability; however, the stroke-free approach is simpler, albeit requiring an extra shaped component.

Building a roof for your addition is an essential part of finishing your do-it-yourself project. You can make sure that your new roof is not only sturdy and aesthetically beautiful, but also functional by adhering to a comprehensive step-by-step guide.

First, evaluate the extension’s structure and assemble all required supplies and equipment. To ensure that the project proceeds smoothly throughout, this preparatory stage is crucial. To prevent mistakes, take precise measurements and confirm your calculations twice.

Next, frame the roof structure in accordance with the building codes in your area and your design. To ensure stability and strength, firmly fasten the framing to the existing structure. The remainder of the roofing process is built upon this step.

To create a waterproof barrier, install roofing underlayment after the framing is finished. This layer prolongs the life of your roof and shields your house from moisture. To avoid any possible leaks, make sure the underlayment is properly overlapped.

The exciting part is about to begin: installing the roofing material. Make sure you closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions whether you decide to use metal panels, asphalt shingles, or another material. To preserve both functionality and aesthetic appeal, make sure every component is correctly aligned and firmly fastened.

Lastly, carefully examine your work to find any areas that might require adjusting or sealing again. Take note of small details, like flashing around vents and edges, to stop water seeping in. After you’re happy with the caliber of your work, you can be proud of a well-built roof that raises the aesthetic appeal and overall value of your home addition.

Video on the topic

Roof. How to make a roof on an extension. Serhulya TV