Is it difficult to make a chimney in the bath with your own hands

Are you considering giving your bathhouse a chimney? Many people are curious as to whether doing it yourself is difficult. Although it takes careful planning and knowledge of the construction process to build a chimney, even someone with basic do-it-yourself abilities can succeed.

Assessing the location and design of your bathhouse is the first step in building a chimney. The location on the roof you select must allow for adequate ventilation and be clear of any combustible materials. The design ought to take into account the kind of heating system you currently own and how the chimney will work with it.

After deciding on a location, you’ll need to collect the required supplies. This usually consists of mortar, bricks or prefabricated chimney parts, a chimney cap, and, if local codes demand it, a spark arrestor. Having all the materials ready in advance will facilitate a more seamless construction process.

The actual construction of the chimney entails assembling prefabricated sections or laying bricks in accordance with your chosen design. To guarantee the chimney operates securely and effectively, it is imperative to adhere to local building codes and safety regulations at every stage of the procedure.

Testing and inspecting the chimney after construction are important steps. When testing your bathhouse heating system, make sure the ventilation and draft are working properly. Periodic inspections are necessary to look for any indications of wear or damage that might compromise the functionality of the chimney.

All things considered, many do-it-yourselfers find that building a chimney for their bathhouse is a manageable project, even though it does require careful planning, fundamental construction skills, and adherence to safety guidelines. You can successfully add a chimney to your bathhouse and take advantage of the warmth and functionality it brings with the correct strategy and attention to detail.

Building a bathhouse chimney on your own can be a rewarding but difficult task. The process’s essential steps and factors are examined in this article. It goes over the necessary supplies, fundamental building methods, and crucial safety advice. You can successfully construct a chimney that guarantees adequate ventilation and improves the bathhouse’s overall functionality by adhering to these guidelines.

A chimney in the bathhouse

If the smoke from the combustible fuel is allowed to enter the building through the openings, it will enter the bathroom. This may result in poisoning from carbon monoxide. A good chimney is required to ensure the bath operates safely. You must first take care of its design, ascertain the dimensions and viewpoint. It will only be feasible to construct a reliable and safe chimney in this situation.

Bath buildings can have their own chimmer made:

  • from brick;
  • from metal.

There are differences between the design and installation location:

  1. External. Chimney devices that should be removed through the wall and lift from the outer part of the bath.
  2. Internal. The pipe for giving smoke are located inside the bath structure and pass through the roof.

You should educate yourself about the benefits and drawbacks of each design in order to select one that suits your needs.

Video: how to choose a chimney for a bath structure

The calculation of the chimney

Accurately determining the chimney’s diameter for various heating systems is crucial. You must become familiar with the manufacturer’s instructions in order to accomplish this. If they’re not, you can apply the advice found below:

  1. If you use a firewood stove or a fireplace with an open firebox, then the calculation should be done as follows: you will need to make a ratio of 1:10 in relation to the furnace. This is applicable to the cylinder -shaped nozzles. The calculation of the section of the chimney in the form of a square must be determined in proportion to the dimensions of the firebox 1: 1.5. The diameter of the pipe should exceed the diameter of the blow.
  2. If the heat of heat is less than 300 kcal/hour, then the cross section should be 140×140 mm or more.

It is important to consider the quantity of oxygen needed for the fuel to burn. In order to prevent condensation on the building walls, the gas temperature needs to be higher than 120°C. The accumulation of condensate within the pipe may cause a delay in the formation of soot, which will reduce thrust and necessitate more frequent cleaning.

Table: Permissible chimney characteristics

Parameter Meaning
Output gas temperature 120 ° C
The minimum acceptable gas movement speed minimum 2 m/s
The optimal chimney height 5 m
The amount of combustible fuel in 1 bookmark 10 kg/h

The formula for calculating the diameter of the chimneys is D = √ (4 x VR) / (3.14 x 2), where D is the diameter of the smoke-removal device and VR is the air volume. The section’s geometry is used to calculate the device’s height. The schedule can be used to complete the calculation:

The area of the firebox (F) and the smoke output device (F) must be determined for the calculation. The ratio in percentage should be calculated by dividing the first value by the latter. For instance, the minimum permitted height for a round chimney is 7 meters, for a square chimney it is 9 meters, and for a rectangular chimney it is 11 meters, if the section of the chimney structure to the furnace’s cross section ratio is 10%. The vortex resistance that the chimney creates can be used to offset the height difference.

It is important to keep in mind that values are only appropriate for straight pipes, which can be challenging to achieve in a bathroom. Most of the time, the push will be minimally impacted by the various turns on the smoke removal pipe. You will require the assistance of experts for the accurate calculation of a specific device with a range of irregularities. In severe circumstances, the resultant value must be somewhat increased. This will be sufficient for the solid fuel stove.

Pipe chimney

The following are some benefits of using asbestos pipes:

  1. Low cost. This is due to the fact that asbestos products are easy to make.
  2. Little weight.
  3. Lack of seams.
  4. Distribution to moisture.

It is crucial to take into account the cons, which outweigh the benefits by a wide margin:

  1. Legislation prohibits the use of pipes from this material in stoves that work on solid fuel. In the process of combustion of fuel, the temperature of the discharge gases will be at the mark of 700-800 ° C. Asbestos chimney is able to withstand no more than 300 ° C.
  2. Asbest is a porous material, so it will absorb condensate. Cracks can cause fires.
  3. The internal base will not be smooth, therefore, on the walls, a soot accumulates quite often, which after a certain period may begin to burn. The temperature from open fire will increase quickly, as a result of which the chimney from asbestos will explode.
  4. So that after a certain period, the depression of the chimney can also seal after a certain period. As a result, traction will disappear, and combustion products will enter the room.
  5. The occurrence of spots on the walls and a poor smell in the steam room. Condensate will be absorbed into the pipe and switch to the materials that touch it. This can lead to the fact that the chimney and the building will need to repair.
  6. The asbestos pipe has a small diameter, so initially the traction will be bad.
  7. The design will not work to prepare a recess for the audit, so it is difficult to clean from soot.

In order to use this material to make a chimney, you must meet the requirements listed below:

  1. You need to install the structure only in the territories that are located at a large distance from the furnace.
  2. A prerequisite is insulation. The pipe can be mounted in a brick chimney or it is possible to build a sandwich using an external casing. This will significantly reduce the appearance of condensate and increase fire safety.

The following advice should be considered if building a chimney out of asbestos pipework is being planned:

  1. Installation of the structure should be carried out on a stove made of reinforced concrete or masonry made of stone.
  2. During the passage through the overlap, you will need to make a chopper. To do this, fix the sides of the required height in the extreme parts of the recess and fill the cracks between the material of the ceiling and the pipe with materials that do not ignite. It is allowed to use expanded clay, sand or slag concrete.
  3. In the process of transition through the roof, you will need to make a otter that can protect the attic from the penetration of sediments inside. For reliable fastening, you should form a clutch from a mixture of sand and cement.
  4. The chimney segments must be fastened with the help of heat -resistant sealant and clamps.

It is crucial to give the joints’ quality extra consideration.

Ceramics pipes

Contemporary ceramic nozzles are useful for clearing out gases of different temperatures and for hard and liquid fuel boilers.

What sets the ceramic chimney apart from the others:

  1. Universality.
  2. Simple processing.
  3. The possibility of heat accumulation.
  4. High strength.
  5. A long service period.
  6. Gas seal, in connection with which the probability of gas penetration into the room is excluded.
  7. Resistance to fire.
  8. Water resistance.
  9. Temperature drops resistance.

The elements of the design are as follows:

  1. Ceramic blocks that are produced exclusively for chimney.
  2. Concrete carrier.
  3. Thermal insulation material.

Chimney can be visually separated into the following areas:

  • capacitance for accumulating condensate;
  • pipe base;
  • tee for cleaning;
  • a tee for connecting a stove.

There should be a minimum of 10 cm of locking fluid, and the capacitance siphon for accumulating condensate should be taller than 15 cm. It is important to remember that joints connecting multiple sections cannot be placed in the floor slabs’ passageways when installing direct parts. The structure needs to be further isolated in these locations using non-combustible material.

The device made of ceramics should be taller than five meters overall. The stronger the craving, the greater the height. When installing, it’s crucial to keep the following requirements in mind:

  • The chimney should be at an altitude of 1.2 m above the roof without bending;
  • at least 50 cm above the skate or barrier;
  • at a distance of at least 5 m from the grate of the grate to the mouth of the pipe;
  • above the skate;
  • at an angle of 10 ° to the horizon line.

The product’s measurements ought to exceed the stove pipe’s diameter. The installation process is very easy: begin with the base and work your way up to the upper portion. The upper portion’s pipe should enter the lower part. It is crucial to consider the possibility of precipitation when installing a structure in a wood-frame building. The chimney will sustain damage if this factor is overlooked. There’s no need to fasten the item to the roof.

Self -manufacture of a chimney for a stainless steel bathhouse

Not every type of steel can be used to make smoke extraction equipment. Only steel from the following brands can be used to construct the design:

  1. Heat -resistant metal with protection against corrosion of the brand 409 and 439. Suitable in case of installation of a stove on solid fuel. The composition of the material includes titanium, which will not allow the burnout of carbon from metal. This brand cannot be used to remove smoke from a stove that works on gas or liquid fuel.
  2. Stainless metal that is resistant to corrosion. Mark – 430. The material can be used to build external chimney elements. As an internal pipe is not suitable, as it will quickly collapse under the influence of elevated temperatures.
  3. Stainless metal brand 304 and 316. Resistant to acid effects. It is allowed to use the material in the production of smoke removal systems, which are mounted on devices operating using liquid fuel.
  4. Turning metal that is resistant to the effects of acids and high temperature. Mark – 321 and 316t. Can be used for all types of stoves, since the material is not terrible temperature up to 1000 °.

Use of only austenitic class materials is permitted.

Steel chimneys fall into two categories:

  1. Pipe with one wall. Can be installed inside the bath structure. In this case, you need to isolate the part with a heat -resistant material. The device can also be installed in a brick structure.
  2. Two -wall sandwich. Can be installed inside and out of the bathhouse. The design is reliable, fireproof, it is best used in a bathhouse or a residential building made of wood.

To install a design that enables you to create a chimney that is both high-quality and long-lasting, follow these guidelines:

  1. Install such a system starting from the lower part.
  2. The assembly of all sections of the chimney into one structure must be performed sequentially. The subsequent section needs to be inserted into the previous.
  3. The pipe needs to be joined using heat -resistant sealant and fixed with clamps.
  4. Each detail should be fixed with a separate bracket.
  5. If the pipe will pass near the devices that may light up, then on the outer side of the pipe you need to install a layer of insulation from basalt.
  6. If the roof is without bending, then the minimum chimney height above it is 50 cm.
  7. In the places of passage of the structure through the roof on it there should not be connections. The minimum allowable distance from the junction to the ceiling is 70 cm.

Installing a spark at the head of the pipes is necessary to protect the roof.

Independent installation of a chimney for a bathhouse

The method of installation is contingent upon the material that will be utilized in the chimney’s construction. When building a chimney on your own, there are a few guidelines that need to be followed:

  1. The device should not fit with other nozzles.
  2. The design for the removal of smoke should not have horizontal sections with a length of more than 1 m long.
  3. During the heating season, the bathhouse chimney must be cleaned at least 2 times.
  4. The structure should go out at least 0.5 m outside the roof.

Installation of a sandwich dizmizer through steel through the ceiling

Initially, a sandwich is taken into account. Products are delivered by manufacturers with an additional set of parts, which can be ascribed to:

  • knee;
  • tees;
  • clamps;
  • plugs;
  • Ceiling and passing nodes;
  • headlines;
  • Protective screens.

Detailed instructions for assembling a steel chimney:

  1. First of all, with the help of a plumb line, you need to mark the output of the pipe through the roof and the ceiling structure. Next, you need to prepare a recess in size of the pipe. It is worth remembering that between the sandwich pipe and the parts of the ceiling made of wood, you need to leave a distance of about 10 cm along the perimeter of the recess.
  2. Thermal insulation can be performed using mineral wool. You need to close the place of passage of the pipe through the ceiling ceiling. Do not worry about the fact that cotton wool can be drew, since the fever quickly dries it.
  3. You will need to remove all sizes and determine the installation site of the unloading assembly. It is recommended to do it on the attic. He will take on the loads of the pipe that leaves the ceiling. In addition, the unloading node is able to exclude lateral fluctuations.
  4. If the distance between the floor base and the attic is large, then the unloading assembly should be installed. If the distance is less than 1.5 m, then auxiliary support is not required. The unloading node can be built from steel corners and fasteners. The corners must be fixed to the rafters. Fixation should be as reliable as possible.
  5. On the output pipe of the stove you will need to mount the initial pipe. It should be included in a large pipe with an interference, during the purchase process you need to choose the right dimensions.
  6. A narrow pipe should enter the pipe at the output of the furnace, while it should not cover it. Pipe segments must be inserted into each other. The transition and bending places should be additionally fixed with clamps.
  7. At the site of the passage of the pipe through the ceiling structure, it is necessary to cut the cut to cover the output deepening. It will also make the chimney more stable. For cutting, you need to weld a larger diameter pipe, which will be used as an adapter. This will increase the area of ​​the stop and exclude deformation in the event of strong loads in the side. The adapter will allow the chimney to move freely and down. To exclude heat loss due to loose parts, it is recommended to use mineral wool. It must be placed under the cutting part and thoroughly pull it to the ceiling overlap with nails or self -cutting screws.
  8. In the crate and coating of the roof, you need to prepare holes. Next, it should be sequenced by the release place of the device for smoke eating. This requires an adapter. The compounds should be coated with sealant. It is recommended to put another sheet on the coating and fix it with self -tapping screws with rubber washers. The remaining cracks are treated with sealant. The output of the pipe should be 55 cm above the roof level.
  9. In the upper part of the chimney, the fungus should be mounted.

Video: Installation of a chimney from a sandwich tube through the ceiling

Installation of a ceramic chimney through the ceiling

The steps that will be taken are as follows:

  1. First of all, you need to prepare the place where the device will be placed. If there are irregularities on it, they must be eliminated. The installation of chimneys is allowed to be carried out on a separate base near the heating device or on its upper surface. For masonry, a special adhesive mixture is used, since the solution cannot provide the necessary strength.
  2. Prepare metal rods with a length of 1 m and with a diameter of 5–10 mm. With their help, you will need to additionally fix the structure. This will maintain the integrity of the chimney. Next, you need to make deepening in the ceiling and roof. Dimensions on the dimensions do not need to be done, since the device will be able to protect wooden parts from elevated temperatures.
  3. At the next stage, you need to install 2 halves of ceramics. The lock should be lubricated with a glue mixture.
  4. Next, you need to check the location of the halves. If necessary, they can be torn. Iron rods should be inserted into the lateral recesses. The gaps between reinforcement and ceramics are filled with glue. No need to completely fill the recess. Glue must be placed so that it connects rods and ceramics in 3-4 places.
  5. The heat -insulating material should be wound onto a ceramic pipe, slightly pull it with iron wire or clamp. No need to tighten hard, since the heat insulator should not be compressed. As a material for heat isolation, pressed mineral wool is mainly used.
  6. The pipe will need to be installed in the recess of ceramics, and then check its location. To speed up the process, you can wrap all the pipes at once with the insulation. The number of pipes corresponds to the height of the chimney.
  7. The next ceramic block is mounted on glue. Another pipe is inserted into the bell of the first. Excess glue from the inner pipe should be wiped immediately, there should be no dreams.
  8. Actions are performed by analogy, in the process it is important to monitor the location of the chimney.
  9. To fix the chimney in the attic, it is necessary to cut off the rails along the dimensions of the recess, install them around the perimeter of the chimney and firmly nail them to the attic.
  10. At the site of the chimney release, the roof should be sealed. This is performed with the help of additional elements that are sold in finished form.

Video: Instructions for the installation of a ceramic chimney

Installation of chimneys through the wall

  1. First of all, it is necessary to determine the place where the channel will be placed inside the structure and the chimney pipe is displayed in the wall. To protect the internal base of the walls of the bath from overheating, you should install a leaf screen of iron. At the site of the passage, you need to prepare a hole, the dimensions of which exceed the diameter of the pipe.
  2. The chimney must be connected to the input pipe of the stove using an adapter. Next, we put on a piece of pipe with a damper.
  3. Details need to be tucked with iron clamps. The joints of the joints are treated with a sealant that is not afraid of high temperature. The chimney must be brought to the point of passage through the wall. If you need to expand the pipe and lay a horizontal segment, you will need to use the bindings by 45 ° and 90 °.
  4. In the place where the design passes through the obstacle, you need to place a fire -resistant box. It is made of iron or asbestos cement. In the free space formed between the walls of the box and the pipe, you need to place a thermal insulator that does not ignite.
  5. From the side of the street, it is necessary to fix the part of the smoke removal system in the form of a tee, in the lower part of which there is a container for condensate.
  6. The pipe is equipped with vertical sections until the necessary height is reached. To fix it, you need to use iron brackets. The distance between the elements is at least 1 m.

You must melt the oven once a smoke exhaust device is put together. When the smoke exits the furnace quickly, it indicates that the work was done correctly.

How to draw a chimney from a bath through the ground

You must isolate the ground before drawing a pipe through it. Since the pipe will be exposed to high temperatures, the typical bitumen layer is not appropriate. The following will be the order of events:

  1. You need to prepare several linen pipes, the diameter of the first should be 5-10 cm less than the diameter of the second. One pipe must be placed in another. It is recommended to entrust the assembly process for specialists in tin work.
  2. Pipes can be collected from several parts. Joints are fastened with clamps. There should be 3 spacers between each clamp, otherwise, when falling asleep, the chimney structure can lead.
  3. The joints of the joints should be treated with heat -resistant sealant.
  4. The outer pipe that is located in the ground will need to be covered with bitumen.

Although the instructions seem straightforward, it is advised that this work be left to the hands of knowledgeable experts.

Doing a bathhouse chimney construction yourself can be a rewarding and difficult project. It necessitates thorough planning, adherence to safety guidelines, and a solid foundation in construction principles. Make sure you have the required equipment and supplies, such as mortar, fire-resistant bricks, and an appropriate chimney pipe, before you begin.

Start by planning the chimney layout, taking local building codes, roof height, and the type of stove or heater you’ll be using into account. For effective smoke evacuation and to avoid carbon monoxide buildup inside the bathhouse, proper ventilation and draft are essential.

Establishing a sturdy foundation for the chimney base is the first step in construction. The weight of the chimney structure should be supported by this foundation, which needs to be sturdy. Next, apply heat-resistant mortar between layers of fire-resistant bricks, making sure that each layer is level and firmly bonded.

Periodically assess the chimney’s alignment and stability as you progress upward. The installation of a rain cover or chimney cap is necessary to keep out water and debris, which over time could cause damage to the building.

Make sure the chimney is safe and functional by performing a comprehensive inspection after construction is finished. Check for a suitable draft and make sure there are no openings or leaks that could allow smoke to enter the structure. Once satisfied, bask in the knowledge that you constructed your own, safe, and functional bathhouse chimney.

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Alexandra Fedorova

Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

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