Laying tires on the roof of the house: Detailed instruction

Are you considering replacing your roof? By installing tiles, you can greatly improve your home’s durability and aesthetic appeal. Knowing the procedure is essential for a successful project, regardless of whether you’re installing tiles for the first time or replacing outdated ones.

This guide will take you step-by-step through the entire installation process, from selecting the appropriate tiles to becoming an expert installer. By the end, you’ll be comfortable handling this project on your own and have saved a lot of money and time.

Let’s explore the fundamentals of installing tiles on your roof and give the outside of your house a brand-new appearance.

Briefly about the bitumen tiles of the shinglass

Flexible shingla tiles are made of a multilayered fiberglass material with modified bitumen applied on both sides. Multicolored basalt crumbs were sprinkled on top of the bitumen. The roof from the shinglass has a distinctive appearance due to the basalt sprinkles: it is rough, has a deep color with smooth transitions, and has a matte finish. Furthermore, basalt sprinklers keep bitumen safe from sun damage, keep the roof from overheating on hot, sunny days, and lessen noise during rainy seasons.

Following installation, the sun warms the pliable roof, causing the bitumen to soften and the separate tile rows to gradually raft into one cohesive whole. Thus, even in conventionally "weak" locations—such as on yendovs, close to ventilation and furnace pipes, and at the junction of the roof and the house wall—a sealed coating with a minimal risk of leaks is achieved.

This is how shinglas bitumen tiles are fundamentally constructed. Technonikol is a company that makes two- and even three-layer soft roof tiles in addition to single-layer ones. The tireglos roof is stronger and more long-lasting the more layers it has; for premium collections, the warranty lasts for 60 years.

Total in the Technonikol 19 collection directory. Among these are the elite series of the continent and Atlantic, which stand out from other collections with their striking durability and beautiful relief and contrasting color that mimics natural materials, as well as the ultra-budget Optima bitumen tile, which comes with a 10-year service life guarantee.

Regardless of the collection selected, applying tire coating to the roof is done using a single technology. However, the series determines how the tile rows are fastened. These plans for a few shingle bitumen roof collections:

The mounting scheme for collections not included in the above figure needs to be viewed in the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is fastened to every bitumen tile packaging.

Detailed instructions on how to cover the roof with his own hands with his own hands

Three categories of work can be made conditionally regarding roof coating with tires:

1. Preparation.
2. Laying bitumen tiles on slopes.
3. The device of complex roof elements: yends, skates and adjoining.

In addition, even though it requires a lot of time, styling the shinglass itself is the easiest part of installation.

Preparation for installation

You must get ready before using a bus to cover the roof: prepare a roofing pie, fill a crate, bring supplies, and gather a set of tools.

Tools and materials

Start getting ready to install any roofing material while making sure everyone is safe. Since installing roofs is a high-rise task, every worker needs at least the bare minimum of safety gear, which includes a cord, connecting and blocking elements, and a belt. The ropes are fastened to chimneys, ventilation pipes, and ridge beams, three sturdy roof components. Any structure that can support a person’s weight in the event of a fall and for which you can consistently tie a safety cord is appropriate.

You need a construction respirator and safety glasses to work with paint, impregnation, and insulation.

The following tools are required in addition to insurance in order to install the tires on the roof:

• roulette and pencil or marker;
• construction knife;
• Sensor cord;
• a hammer or a cloves of a pistol;
• construction stapler;
• putty knife;
• screwdriver;
• manual hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Pistol for sealant and mastic;
• construction hair dryer;
• kiyanka;
• steel mandrel;
• angle grinding machine;
• manual or electric wizards for metal or drill with nozzle-out.

You will need a tool to wrap the "heron" envelopes when using a metal apron, as well as manual leaf beams and roofing ticks to wrap the pipe.

You must also get the materials ready:

• Roofing mastic of the company"s company Technonikol or similar;
• roofing nails;
• lining carpet;
• Ends carpets;
• boards for a solid crate with a thickness of at least 24 mm, moisture-resistant plywood 22-24 mm thick or OSB-3 plate with a thickness of 9-12 mm;
• waterproofing film or membrane;
• reinforced adhesive tape or connecting ribbons for sealing the joints of steam and waterproofing;
• steel premature elements;
• Bitumen tiles of shinglass.

Steel style elements only ever design the cornice and pedimental overhang, as well as the location of roof adjustments to the wall. Steel planks and apple carpets can both be used for yends and bypassing pipes.

Vapor barrier, insulation, and inner frame boards are also required for the attic roof. Before putting in a roof pie, fireproof compounds and antiseptics are applied to all of the wooden components of the roof.

A roofing pie

The kind of roof determines the roof pie’s composition. For a warm roof, the components are as follows, excluding the roofing itself:

• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• counterparts;
• crate.

Tire roofs are typically perfectly warm because this type of material is rarely installed on private home attics.

The vapor barrier is initially fastened from the side of the attic floor when putting in a roof cake. Generally, the roll is rolled out with the inscriptions inside the room when installing a vapor barrier. However, as this is not always the case, make sure to read the information on the roll before installation.

Using a construction stapler, the vapor barrier film is attached to the roof rafters, with a 10-15 cm overlap. The walls breed on the walls on the same 10-15 cm vapor barrier. A unique reinforced adhesive tape or sealing tape is used to glue every joint. The vapor barrier film shouldn’t have any tears, punctures, or other damage on it. The internal crate, which will house the insulation, is packed full from a trimming board on top of the stacked vapor barrier.

Rigid mineral wool slabs, polyurethane foam (PPU, PIR), and extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) are commonly used as roof insulation materials. Using a construction knife, the material is cut to fit snugly between the rafters and the boards. Each subsequent layer of thermal insulation overlaps the joints of the one before it. Mineral wool panels installed dispersion. It is unacceptable that there are gaps between the rafters and insulation because they allow a lot of heat from the undercarbon room to escape. Not only will this result in high heating costs, but it will also cause condensation, ice buildup on the roof, and wet rafters and insulation.

Installing waterproofing is the last but not the least step in getting the roof ready for shingle installation. It shields the insulation from wind and moisture. Diffusion membranes are a preferable method of waterproofing because they not only keep moisture from entering from the outside but also enable condensate that has accumulated inside the temperature differential to evaporate and leave the roofing material as water vapor. Conventional waterproofing films are also appropriate, but only if the vapor barrier is properly glued and completely tight and the loss of condensation in the thermal insulation layer is eliminated.

The boards must be processed with antiseptic compositions for at least 24 hours before the pattern-based waterproofing is applied. Using a construction stapler, install brackets every 20 to 30 centimeters for initial fastening. At least 15 cm should separate the waterproofing’s transverse (horizontal) and longitudinal (vertical) joints, respectively. The waterproofing membrane must be placed 10–15 cm up against the walls, just like the vapor barrier. Except for specialized waterproofing membranes with self-adhesive edges, like Ruukki, waterproofing is glued in joints using sealing or reinforced tape.

Finally, the waterproofing layer is secured with counterpart bars that are either screwed with long self-tapping screws or crammed along the rafters. The counterparty, which offers ventilation for the subcutaneous space, is composed of a beam measuring 50 x 50 mm for steeply sloping roofs and 80 x 80 mm for more gently sloped or even flat roofs.

On top of the counterparty, either a continuous base is filled out of the boards, or they make a discharged crate, on which the plywood or OSB plate is then mounted. For a discharged crate, take a board, the width of which should at least twice the width of the rafters and attach it with a step of 2-2.5 width. It is advisable to use a calibrated board or bring the usual wrapping on the flight. If there is no flight, and the width of the boards is slightly different, the crate is exhibited in one plane using linings of thin waterproof plywood. But this is better to avoid, because over time, such lining will crack and collapse.

Usually, OSB-3 plates are used to create a solid crate. Since moisture-resistant plywood can swell under certain circumstances and is more expensive than wood-burning stoves, it is rarely used. The slabs are secured with a 3-5 mm gap, which is necessary to account for the variation in the material’s linear size brought on by changes in humidity. The OSB is arranged in a checkerboard pattern to prevent joint matching. To give structures more stiffness, this is required.

The continuous flooring is laid, and then the roof is prepared for shingle installation. Cornice plank installation, lining carpet installation, and pediment strengthening are the first steps in the roofing process.

Laying the lining carpet with the strengthening of cornices and pediments

A cornice bar, which is an additional piece of metal bent at a blunt angle, is installed to prevent the frontal boards and rafters from getting wet on the roof. The bar’s angle and the crate’s edge are combined, and it is fastened in a checkerboard pattern with 15-20 cm intervals using screws or nails. On gentle roofs, the overlap between adjacent cornation strips should be 10 cm, but at least 5 cm.

There are locations where two cornice planks may join if the roof has a complex shape. These locations are on the yndovs of all roof types and at the corners of the roof, if it is a lump or tent. Cornice strips for metal need to be cut with scissors in order to arrange joints:

1. For the junction, 15 cm of the lower shoulder of the cornice bar is completely cut off on the yndov. Then make an incision of about 10 cm along the corner of the bar, cut off to the same depth, if it is. With the help of kiyanka and steel mandrel, part of the lower shoulder bend along the cut at the same angle at which cornice overhangs converge. The neckline of the upper shoulder is also bent so that it repeats the shape.
2. For the junction in the corners of the roof, both the upper and lower shoulder is cut off. To do this, the bar is cut in the corner by 10-15 cm and both cuts are bent in a kiyanka in the shape of a cornice joint. Then the excess parts are cut off – at the place of the bend, both parts of the bar must converge in the bust, without overwhelming.

Cornice strips must always be fastened to the base at bends.

Only after the lining carpet has been installed are the tire roof tiles installed. It offers the best adhesion of a flexible roof with the base in addition to extra sound insulation. Most importantly, though, is that the lining carpet connects individual rains into a single whole by sealing the roof from flexible tiles.

There are two kinds of lining carpets:

1. Self -adhesive lining carpets, which close the places of likely leaks: yendovs, adjacence, pipe passage through the roof, cornice overhang.
2. Lining carpets for fastening with nails. They do not have an adhesive layer on the back, and on the overhang they are fixed only with nails. Such lining carpets covered most of the roof slopes.

The lining carpets are installed under the shinglass roof starting with the yends and are subsequently covered on the cornices at the locations where the roof is adjusted to the wall. When self-adhesive carpets are first tried on, they should act at least 50 centimeters on each side of the bend. After that, carefully remove the protective film, adhere the canvas, and smooth it out completely. The lining carpet should not have any folds as they will cause interference. If the carpet is just yendovic and not self-adhesive, at least 10 centimeters of its edges must be covered with a layer of mastic that is no thicker than 1 mm.

The lining carpet is installed on long values with a minimum 30-cm overlap. The canvas is cut parallel to the cornice near the overhang, but it ends 2 cm above the metal bar’s bend. The tongue at the end carpet’s strip junction is cut, preventing moisture from getting into the joint and directing it straight into the drainage system.

Further self -adhesive lining carpet closes the cornice overhang. Like the apple carpet, it is rolled out 2 cm from the bend of the cornice bar. The lining carpet should close the cornice overhang, the entire wall and at least 60 cm up the slope. If the roof is simple, the carpet is simply rolled from the edge to the edge and attached with nails with a wide hat every 30 cm. Nails drive in the middle of the sealing strip. If the roof is complex, then the edge of the canvas that enters the yendova is cut so that it is parallel to the bend, and enters the apple carpet with an overlap at least 15 cm. On long cornices, the carpet is covered with an overlap 30 cm.

The rest of the roof area is covered with a lining carpet with mechanical fixation. It is laid in rows from the bottom up and rolled out parallel to the cornice overhang with a horizontal overlap of 10 cm and a vertical overlap 15 cm. The junction of the joint is necessarily smeared with mastic for additional waterproofing, applying it with a continuous, but thin layer – not more than 1 mm thick. The lining carpet at the edges is attached with nails in a step 25 cm. The vertical joints between the canvas in the neighboring rows should not be opposite each other – they need to be spread by at least 0.5 m, but this distance is better to make more.

The lining carpet is fixed with an excess on the ribs and skate so that the canvas is the same on both sides. After the material completely closed the ramps, the carpet is fixed on these roof elements at the final turn.

The front-line bar installation is the final step before the shingle is directly laid on the roof. She also fixes the lining carpet so that the wind won’t break it. The bar is pushed up against the edge of the OSB plate by pedimental overhangs. You must first leave a pedimental overhang if bitumen tile installation is done on a continuous crate from the boards. Simply cutting the board edges to match the pediment wall’s parallel alignment is how to accomplish this.

The front ton bar is fastened in a checkerboard pattern with 15 cm intervals using screws or nails. There is a minimum of 5 cm of overlap between the strips. It is cut close to the bar’s skates to create a straight, even joint.

Everything is now set up for a shinglass to be installed on the roof, allowing you to start installing the most flexible tile.

Laying shinglass on the slope of the roof

Single-layer bitumen shingle tiles are a very affordable, but not very well-liked, option among private developers. More robust two-layer collections are preferred by many homeowners. Such a soft roof is an excellent investment because it will last at least twice as long, even with its high cost. One of the most well-liked two-layer tile series is the Ranch collection. As a result, we will carefully consider the process for covering the roof tiles of this collection using this example.

In contrast to a single-layer tile, the protective film on Gont’s back cannot be removed while installing the tireglos of the ranch. To ensure that there are no spots on the roof, bitumen tiles from various packs must be mixed before installation.

Prior to installing the ranch’s ranks, a guide marking must be made. Using a marginal cord, you can apply thin lines with simple beaten in an even manner. Horizontal lines parallel to the cornice and vertical lines perpendicular to it are used to mark the entire surface of the roof. Lines are drawn horizontally every 80 centimeters and vertically every 1 meter.

The ranch tireglos’ styling starts at the cornice with one of the roof angles on short slopes. From the cornice’s center, on the long side. In order to begin, regular tiles are used, which are placed 2 cm away from the cornice bar’s bend. Prior to installation, mastic is applied to the back of the starting tile, and it is then precisely fastened by driving nails along the line that was applied at the factory. The amount of nails required is determined by the roof’s inclination angle:

• 5 nails if the angle of inclination is less than 45 °;
• 8 nails if the slope of the roof is more than 45 °.

The remaining nails are positioned in the middle of the petal, with the extreme nails on either side of the gunt fastened 25 mm from the edge. There should be roughly 50 mm separating the two adjacent nails on the petal. In each case, the fastening schemes are below:

The ranch’s tires are laid at random, with the top row of tiles being shifted 15–85 cm in relation to the bottom row. In order to prevent the metal from rusting and eventually causing a leak, the tops of the upper row must simultaneously seal the hats of the lower nails.

For the shingle ranch to have a long-lasting soft roof, proper nail driving during installation is crucial:

1. The nail hat should be on the same level with coating. Sticking out or pressed nails are unacceptable.
2. Each nail should record two rows of tiles at once. Exception – installation of the starting strip.
3. Nails are driven evenly, strictly vertically. If the nail is tilted, it needs to be pulled out and replaced.

Ranch bitumen tile is applied in the shape of a pyramid or strip on a slope. In order to beat water with a braid of rain, the upper corners of the gont must be chopped off in a semicircle and the last 10 cm near the pediment must be covered with mastic for increased tightness. Two centimeters must be removed from the bend, just like with a cornice bar. The pediment at Gonton is at least 20 centimeters wide.

The shinglass tiles entirely cover the roof’s slopes thanks to this technology.

Decoration of yends

There are two styles of decoration for the yendova’s soft tiles roof: open or sliced. Since you can cover the entire roof with tiles and leave no gaps, the cut method is more aesthetically pleasing. As a result, we advise selecting this approach.

This technology is used in the design of yards with trimming:

1. 30 cm back in each direction retreat from the line of the junction of the slopes and mark the markings.
2. The tile is laid on a slope with a smaller slope so that it enters the second slope by at least 30 cm.
3. A slope with a smaller slope is completely covered with tiles.
4. On the second slope, the cut line is marked, which is 7-8 cm from the bend.
5. The racers that will be laid on the second slope cut this line with a construction knife. When cutting, you need to put a board, an OSB section or plywood, so as not to accidentally cut the waterproofing layer.
6. 2-3 cm is cut in the corners of the racetra, this is necessary for the end of the water.
7. A layer of mastic 10 cm wide is applied to the back of the cut tile along the edge. In the same layer of mastic, the front side of the already laid horses is covered, focusing on the cut line.
8. Rques of a tough slope are fixed with nails.

Circle of the pipe on the roof

An apple carpet or a metal apron can be placed next to the pipe, connecting the shinglass roof to it. The first approach is more difficult and calls for knowledge of working with roofing metal, including falsetics and envelope formation. Thus, it is generally preferable to arrange apple carpet at the junction.

Prior to installing the adjustment device, plaster the pipe, cover it with primer, drill a hole in it about 30 centimeters high, and install all of the tile rows on the chimney’s front wall. Additionally, the apple carpet’s patterns are used to draw the adjacency:

1. At the place of pipe crossing, a filler is installed around the perimeter – a triangular block with a shoulder at least 5 cm.
2. The apple carpet is applied to the front wall of the pipe and cut out of it the pattern so that it goes 20 cm into an ordinary tile, 30 cm to the wall and 10 cm on the sides of the pipe.
3. The pattern is thoroughly coated with mastic from the back and glued to the pipe.
4. First make the front pattern, then the side and the last glue the back.
5. The patterns on top are fixed with a steel apron.
6. To do this, put a sealant in the stroke and steel planks are made in it, fixing them with anchors.
7. Another layer of sealant is applied from above the apron.

The video provides comprehensive instructions for attaching the soft roof to the pipe:

1. Preparation of the Roof Surface:	Clean the roof surface thoroughly and ensure it is dry and free from debris.
2. Installing the Underlayment:	Begin by laying down the roofing underlayment, ensuring it overlaps correctly according to manufacturer guidelines.
3. Placing the Tyvek Membrane:	Cut and position the Tyvek membrane over the underlayment, securing it tightly to prevent any movement.
4. Arranging the Tires:	Start laying the tires in rows, starting from the bottom edge of the roof and working upwards. Ensure each tire overlaps the one below to prevent leaks.
5. Securing the Tires:	Use appropriate roofing nails or screws to secure each tire in place, ensuring they are firmly attached to withstand weather conditions.
6. Sealing and Finishing:	Apply sealant around the edges and any joints to enhance waterproofing. Inspect the entire roof to ensure all tires are securely fastened and sealed.

Installing tile on your home’s roof can be a fulfilling project that improves the structure’s appearance and usability. You can guarantee the longevity and weather resistance of your roof and get a professional-looking finish by adhering to a comprehensive instruction manual.

To start, planning is essential. Make sure the structure of your roof is sturdy and prepared to bear the weight of the tiles. Thoroughly clean the roof’s surface to get rid of any debris or outdated roofing materials. This creates the framework for an even and seamless tile installation.

Next, start laying the tiles in accordance with the guidelines provided by the manufacturer. For effective water drainage and leak prevention, begin at the bottom edge of the roof and work your way up, overlapping each row of tiles. To ensure the tiles are securely fastened in place, use the proper fasteners.

To keep the roof looking uniform throughout, pay close attention to the alignment and spacing of the tiles as you work. To ensure a tight and waterproof fit, cut tiles as necessary to fit around vents, chimneys, or other protrusions.

Once the tile installation is complete, carefully inspect the roof to make sure all of the tiles are correctly aligned and firmly fastened. Look for any openings or places that might require more sealing or adjusting. Maintaining the longevity and integrity of your recently installed tile roof will require routine inspections and maintenance.

You can have a stunning and long-lasting roof that raises the overall value and security of your house by carefully following these comprehensive instructions and investing the necessary time in installing and maintaining your roof tiles.

"Tile installation is an essential step in guaranteeing long-term strength and visual appeal for your home’s roof. From selecting the appropriate tile type to preparing the roof surface, from the actual laying of tiles to the crucial finishing touches, this comprehensive guide offers clear instructions on every step of the process. Understanding these steps will help you achieve a roof that not only protects your home but also improves its overall appearance and value, regardless of whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or hiring professionals."

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