Proper installation of the chimney pipes – how to assemble and install a metal chip pipe

Proper installation of chimney pipes is essential to preserving the security and effectiveness of your home’s heating system. Knowing the steps involved in installing or replacing a chimney pipe will guarantee that the job is done correctly the first time. Metal chimney pipes, sometimes referred to as flue pipes, are frequently used for stoves and in gas and wood-burning fireplaces. In addition to guaranteeing peak performance, correct installation lowers the possibility of fire hazards.

Get all required tools and materials before you start. The sections of chimney pipe, pipe supports, high-temperature silicone sealant, adjustable elbows as needed, a chimney cap, and perhaps a chimney adapter if connecting to a different kind of chimney system are usually required. Verify that every component complies with manufacturer specifications, local building codes, and other requirements.

First, give the chimney a thorough cleaning and condition check. Clear away any obstacles, debris, or creosote accumulation that might prevent adequate ventilation. Then, take measurements of the chimney’s height and diameter to figure out how big and long the chimney pipe sections should be. It’s crucial to select the appropriate diameter to fit the flue collar on your appliance and guarantee adequate ventilation and draft.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when assembling the chimney pipe sections. This usually entails sliding the sections together and fastening them with screws or locking bands. To create an airtight seal and stop any gas leaks into your home, use high-temperature silicone sealant at each joint. When navigating around obstacles or achieving the desired venting angle, pay close attention to the orientation of any elbows or offsets that may be required.

Our goal at "All about the Roof" is to make sure your chimney pipes are installed safely and effectively. Installing metal chimney pipes correctly requires careful assembly and placement methods that are essential to preserving the structural integrity of your roof and guaranteeing the best possible performance from your chimney system. The fundamentals of assembling and installing metal chimney pipes will be covered in this article, from selecting the appropriate parts to fastening the pipe in place. This will guarantee a safe and efficient installation that satisfies your home’s heating requirements as well as safety regulations.

Requirements of standards

Two regulatory documents—SP 7.13130.2013, which is dedicated to climatic systems, and SP 61.13330.2012, which illuminates pipeline thermal protection—establish the general guidelines for the installation of chimney pipes.

In light of these criteria:

• There should be at least 500 mm between the inner surface of the pipe and combustible materials if the chimney is not protected, and at least 380 mm, if there is a protective coating (in the joint venture, a reinforced plaster with a thickness of 25 mm is given as an example of such a coating);
• The minimum distance to the isolated surfaces from the internal wall of the chimney is 250 mm;
• The pipe should be as vertical as possible to ensure good traction;
• The minimum section of the chimneys for the fireplace is 8 cm 2 per 1 kW of the rated power of the heating device;
• The maximum temperature of outgoing gases for stainless chimneys is 400 ° C.

A passage glass is a unique design that is used to carry the pipe through the walls and ceilings in order to meet these requirements and install the chimney correctly. Additionally, a box constructed of fire-resistant materials is located where the pipe passes through the roof.

How to assemble a chimney: "by smoke" or "condensate"?

Metal chimneys are made up of discrete parts. Sections, adapters, and pipes need to be joined together to form a single whole in order to be collected from them.

Complexity is typically avoided when assembling a metal chimney by using sandwich tubes of well-known brands. The sections are designed in a way that makes collecting them the only option. Not to mention the enclosed comprehensive instructions.

Another consideration is whether we’re discussing inexpensive sandwich pipe or the assembly of a single-walled chimney as a whole. There are two ways to join sections in this instance:

1. "By smoke", when the upper sections of the pipes are put on the lower. With this method of connection, the smoke moving upwards rivigelessly passes through the pipe and practically does not settle on the walls. What cannot be said about condensate. If he appears in a chimney that is collected “by smoke”, then his drops flow to the joints and linger there in a small step in the junction. And part of the condensate can even seep out.
2. "Condensate" – in this case, the upper sections of the chimney are inserted into the lower. Here, condensate is already easily flowing down the pipe into the furnace, into a special sump or immediately in the sewer. But near slightly protruding joints, small twists are created, which lead to an increased rate of soot growth in the pipe.

How should a chimney pipe be assembled? Unquestionably "condensate".

The truth is that regardless of pipe insulation, condensate will eventually accumulate in almost any chimney. Its quantity is the only thing in question. Condensate, which is dissolved in water inside the chimney, contains numerous aggressive chemical compounds. Thus, even though the metal is stainless steel, which is highly resistant to chemical influences, it gradually corrodes the joint between the pipe sections.

Furthermore, moisture at the junction serves as an excellent trap for unburned particles in gases that are released. This causes a thick layer of soot to quickly form at the joints of the pipes.

It is only acceptable to collect chimney smoke "by smoke" when referring to a pipe that removes gases from a furnace that burns intensely and has a diameter of up to 100–120 mm. A bathhouse, for instance, might only have two operating modes: "Strong Flame" and "Everything burns out, the firebox cools." Condensate removal should still be prioritized even in this situation, even though there won’t be much of it.

DIY chimney installation: how to do the right thing?

Metal chimneys come in two varieties: the more conventional single-walled and the more contemporary sandwich pipe.

Three layers make up a sandwich pipe:

• the inner pipe, according to which smoke is given;
• layer of non -combustible insulation, usually basalt wool;
• external casing that protects the insulation from getting wet.

Because the exiting gases are not in contact with the pipe’s cold exterior, this design significantly lowers the amount of condensate. Furthermore, if someone were to unintentionally touch the chimney, there would be very little chance of burns because of thermal insulation. As a result, compared to single-walled chimneys, the minimum allowable distance between the inner wall of the chimney and combustible casing materials or enclosing structures is substantially smaller.

Simple pipes made of thin steel are used for single-walled chimneys. Their cost is the only real benefit over sandwich pipes. These chimneys continue to be the most popular because they are so inexpensive. As a result, we will discuss installing two different types of pipes simultaneously in our instructions for building a chimney by hand.

Installation of a chimney from a sandwich tube with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The furnace, boiler, or other heating appliance is always the starting point for a properly installed chimney. Working with pipes in this situation necessitates wearing thick cotton fabric gloves. Without them, the thin pipe walls could cut your hands.

It is necessary to sketch the layout of the chimney before installing it in order to accurately determine the quantity and kind of elements needed. This is particularly crucial if the chimney channel is to follow an intricate path or if it will pass through the wall rather than the roof.

First, attach the adapter to the heating device’s chimney output. This could be a single chimney pipe with an adapter fixed on it, or it could be a corporate transition element. It is not possible to start with a sandwich pipe because the chimney’s first element is positioned right next to the firebox. This may cause even heat-resistant insulation to melt, which will exacerbate the craving, at the very least. A fire is the worst outcome of this kind of installation.

Every joint connecting the chimney’s component parts is completely sealed with a sealant that withstands heat. It is ideal for the operating temperature to be at least 1000 °C. Even though the segments are firmly fitted to one another, there are almost always gaps that are invisible to the naked eye. This will shield the pipe from the air leak.

If needed, you can block the chimney with the assistance of the second one. A starting sandwich pipe is installed behind Shiber; this is not like the typical segments that are closed by the lower part.

Next, you must properly assemble the chimney "according to condensate," using clamps to firmly insert the sections into one another as needed. Pipes are fastened to the wall or other surrounding structures every two meters using clamps.

Passing nodes are installed along the chimney’s path to allow passage through the walls and ceilings. This is a cut that has a steel contour on the outside and a mineritis or asbestos thermal protective shell. The casing is lined with basalt wool and separated from the pipe by basalt cardboard.

Make sure there is at least 250 mm of space between the pipe and any rafters or other combustible material at any point along the pipe’s circumference when it is passing through the roof. Either specific foil materials or a steel apron with required contour sealing are used to shield the insulation from steam.

Features of the installation of a single-walled chimney compared to the installation of a sandwich tube

There are a few key variations between installing a sandwich tube and a single-walled chimney, despite their similar installation principles:

1. Many manufacturers recommend when passing the pipe through walls, ceilings and roof to leave at least 600 mm to combustible materials. This is even more than the standards.
2. The pipes passing inside residential and common rooms need at least insulation, and better in facing. Otherwise, an accidental touch to the chimney during the operation of the heating device will inevitably lead to a serious burn – the walls of the chimney can heat up to 400 ° C or more.
3. The part of the chimney, which is located outside the heated rooms, also needs to be insulated, since the sharp cooling of the outgoing gases in the pipe leads to the enhanced formation of condensate. This is especially critical for the roof, since a large amount of condensate can lead to the depressurization of the passage of the pipe through the roofing.

Another nuance is that soot from the inside of single-walled chimneys accumulates more quickly. As a result, in complex areas, it is preferable to set up a segments-audit so that you can evaluate the chimney’s condition and, if needed, clean it.

Installing chimney pipes correctly is essential to maintaining efficiency and safety in your house. Careful assembly and installation are essential when working with metal chimney pipes to avoid potential risks like leaks or inadequate ventilation.

Selecting the appropriate materials and chimney system components should be your first step. For durability and weather resistance, high-quality metal elbows, pipes, and flashing are necessary. Make sure every part is rated for the heating appliance you own and that they are all compatible with one another.

Plan the chimney pipe’s path carefully before starting the installation. Take into account elements like finding the straightest and shortest route while avoiding obstructions and keeping the necessary distance from combustible materials.

Pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions when assembling. Start by firmly joining the chimney pipe’s sections together, making use of the proper fittings and sealants as needed. Make sure everything fits tightly to avoid any spaces where moisture or gases could leak out.

Adequate support is crucial for mounting the chimney pipe. Following local building codes and safety standards, secure the pipe along its length with strong brackets or straps. This lessens the chance of sagging or shifting over time, which might jeopardize the installation’s integrity.

Lastly, carry out a comprehensive inspection following the completion of the installation and assembly. Inspect for indications of any cracks, loose connections, or insufficient sealing. Before using the chimney on a regular basis, make sure the draft and venting are working properly by starting a small fire.

You can relax knowing that your chimney system is securely and efficiently venting gases from your house by adhering to these assembly and installation instructions for metal chimney pipes. An efficient and long-lasting heating system are also benefits of proper installation, in addition to increased safety.

Video on the topic

The main version of the connection of the chimneys of their stainless steel

How to properly assemble a chimney at the stove of long burning: by smoke or condensate?

Assembly of the chimney by condensate or smoke