Than and how to fix the slate on the roof: exhaustive instruction

Slate roofing repairs must be carefully planned and carried out to guarantee longevity and weather resistance. The method of fixing is still important for the roofing’s longevity and structural integrity, whether you’re installing new roofing or repairing old slate.

Depending on the type of slate and the design of the roof, slate roofs are typically fastened with either nails or hooks. Slates that fit together tightly and need a more secure way to be fastened are usually fixed with hooks rather than nails onto wooden battens.

It’s crucial to evaluate the structure and condition of the roof before starting any installation. Make sure there is sufficient support for the weight of the slate tiles on the roof deck. Prior to beginning installation, any underlying problems, such as rot or damage, should be taken care of.

When repairing slate roof tiles, begin at the lowest point and work your way up. This technique guarantees a clean, overlapping pattern that improves water shedding and helps stop water from leaking under the slates during installation.

"We examine the crucial procedures and supplies required to properly install slate roofing tiles on your roof in this in-depth guide. To guarantee a long-lasting and visually appealing slate roof installation, this article offers precise, step-by-step instructions covering everything from cleaning the roof surface to selecting the appropriate fasteners and tile-securing methods. Whether you’re a professional roofer or a do-it-yourself enthusiast, knowing these tricks will help you build a slate roof that is weatherproof and long-lasting."

Fasten requirements

The characteristics of slate as a roofing material must be considered when selecting fasteners. Make use of metizes that

1. Well resist the shift load. The heavy sheets of slate tend to slide from the slopes of the roof and, therefore, strongly press on the fasteners on the side.
2. Durable, but relatively flexible. If the shift load is very large, the fasteners for the slate should bend, and not break.
3. Have a large hat or equipped with a puck. Slate – fragile material. Therefore, with a small fastening area, the hatch of the methyse can simply expand the fastener over time and leave under the sheet due to the vibration load from the wind.
4. Long enough. The slate mount is carried out in the top of the wave, so long metizes are needed – from 100 mm.

If the roof is insulated, a sealing lining made of rubber, EPDM, or paronite must be included with the slate fasteners. The mounting location will be securely sealed and moisture-protected by the elastic gasket. However, this is just an extra option for cold roofs. It has no special bearing on the node’s reliability because of the details of attaching the slate to the crate.

Than to fix the slate

Any metizes that fit the specifications can be used to secure the slate. However, it is typically utilized for installation:

• slate nails;
• galvanized screws;
• Special self -tapping screws for slate.

Let’s examine the characteristics of each kind of fastener in more detail.

Classic option: slate nails

A more conventional kind of fastener is slate nails. They are long, have a big hat, and frequently have a dangerous surface on the rod, which makes it easier to secure the crate with a nail and stops it from moving in the other direction after clogging.

It is advised to use slate nails measuring 4.5 × 120 mm along with galvanized washers that match GOST 9870-61 to secure the slate. The nail’s protective layer must not be compromised, or it will rapidly deteriorate and lose its strength. This also applies to the washers.

If the slate nails are protected by a polymer cap, that would be ideal. The hat will be shielded from moisture once you drive a nail into it and snap it. Furthermore, the puck will be sealed by the lower portion of the cap, which also adds to the fasteners’ depreciation.

Modern option: galvanized screws

Slate nails are a popular but antiquated method of fastening. When clearing them, you run the risk of inadvertently striking the slate with a hammer, which will certainly cause damage. Either the sheet will instantly crack where the blow was made, or the slate will develop microcracks that will shorten the roofing material’s lifespan. Furthermore, even ruffled nails have the potential to leak as they gradually stretch out of the crate.

Consequently, many manufacturers advise using steel galvanized screws that are made in accordance with GOST 1144–1146–80 and come with galvanized washers to secure the slate rather than nails. An 8 × 100 mm screw is the standard size, but longer fasteners can be used.

It’s crucial to inspect the screw for bending before fastening. You are unable to use such a method to secure the slate sheets if, while attempting to bend the pliers, the screw breaks and becomes unbending.

Import option: special screws

Self-tapping screws are advised for fixing fiber cement corrugated sheets, which are made in other countries and are similar to slate. As there is no need to drill holes in advance for the fasteners, this speeds up the installation of sheets. The remaining components of this fastening technique have the same benefits as screws.

Does this imply that self-tapping roofing screws can be used to fix the slate? Not really. It is specifically a unique fastener that possesses:

1. There is only a thread on the working part of the rod that enters the crate.
2. A special drill that allows the screw to carefully cut the hole in the cipher without the formation of microcracks.
3. There are "ears" to expand the holes by several millimeters.
4. A thick laying of a semicircular shape, which not only provides protection for the holes from moisture, but also allows you to withstand the necessary gap between the screw of the screw and the surface of the sheet.

Self-tapping screws used for roofing are not the same as specialized ones, so they are not appropriate. The photo illustrates how they differ from one another (ordinary roofing on the right, specialized self-tapping screw for slate on the left).

There is a risk of the wave slate breaking if regular roofing screws are used to secure it. Furthermore, because it is too difficult to keep the sheet on the crate, they screwed them both immediately and later.

How to fix slafers correctly: Basic rules

Making the right fastener choice is already half the battle won. But in order to secure the sheet, it must also be used correctly.

Working with slate is simple, but bear in mind that you will require a second person to hold the sheet.

Simply abide by the guidelines:

• The slate is attached only in the crest of the wave, in no case in the sole;
• The fasteners need to be screwed or shut strictly perpendicular to the sheet;
• Before fixing the slate on the roof, in the places of fasteners you need to drill holes, the diameter of which should be 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners;
• The step between the mounts is about 150 cm, the standard eight -wave sheet hold four metiz (two in the second and sixth wave);
• The fastener hat should not be screwed/driven to the stop, it is necessary to leave a gap of 3-4 mm;
• If there are no protective caps, the hats of fasteners are painted over to avoid their corrosion;
• on overhangs – cornice and end – slate must be fixed with anti -white brackets to reduce the harmful effect of the wind load on the material.

The use of antitroteum brackets to secure the slate is mandated by GOSTs and the guidelines provided by manufacturers. Now, however, not many are aware of it. Furthermore, it’s rare where to purchase these brackets. However, this is a pretty crucial component that lets you greatly increase the roof’s lifespan. Brackets face the wind, which has the power to tear the sheets. They lessen the possibility of a hurricane-related roof break and slate cracking close to fasteners.

Comparable brackets designed to prevent white cloth stains are made to secure ceramic and cement-sand tiles to the same overhang. Slate works well with specific kinds of tiles.

Three critical errors when fastening the slate on the roof

A slate roof installed correctly should easily last 30 years, or 50 years with regular maintenance. Nevertheless, this material is incredibly robust and inert. However, many slate roofs start to leak a few years after the coating is applied.

Naturally, the improperly installed junction near the wall, chimney, and ventilation pipe is the primary cause of this. However, mistakes made when attaching the slate also account for a sizable portion of the leaks.

The three primary ones are as follows:

1. Clogging nails directly into the sheet without preliminary drilling holes. It is unacceptable. Such installation inevitably leads to the formation of at least microcracks around the fastener point, which reduce the strength of the sheet by 50% or more. Sometimes the sheet just cracks.
2. Screwingscrew or clogging the nail close to the plane of the sheet of the slate. If there is no gap, with an increase in the size of the slate due to getting wet or during temperature expansion, the sheet cracks in the places of fasteners or fasteners will vomit out of the crate. In any case, urgent roof repairs will be necessary.
3. The crooked mate. Such a nail or screw will not provide reliable fixation of the sheet on the roof, and also become a source of a small leak.

Make sure to observe whether the roofers have committed these mistakes while you are at work.

To ensure longevity and efficacy, fixing slate on a roof necessitates careful consideration of both the material and the technique. Slate, which is renowned for its durability and resistance to weather, is normally fastened with screws or nails. To avoid rusting over time, choose fasteners composed of non-corrosive materials such as galvanized or stainless steel.

Make sure the roof surface is clean and clear of debris before beginning any preparations. In order to ensure water runoff, lay the slate tiles overlapping one another from the bottom of the roof upward. To keep uniformity in appearance and straight rows, use a chalk line. Pre-drill holes in each tile before repairing it to avoid cracking, particularly in the edges.

To stop water from seeping in, make sure each slate tile is sufficiently overlapped by the one below it when placing the slate. To avoid breaking the slate, use a hammer or a screwdriver to drive the nails or screws slightly below the surface. For best installation, fastener and tile spacing should be according to manufacturer specifications.

Once all slate tiles have been fastened, check the roof for any loose tiles or areas that were not correctly fixed. To stop water leaks or wind uplift, make sure all corners and edges are firmly secured. Lastly, to extend the lifespan of your slate roof, perform routine maintenance and inspections. Look for any indications of wear or damage that may need to be repaired.

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