When it comes to roofing, the structure that is hidden from view is vital to its longevity and performance. Known as the roof deck or substrate, this structure serves as the basis for the integrity of the roof and supports the roofing material. The roof decking, also known as roof sheathing, is a crucial part of this construction since it provides the foundation for the roof covering to be put on.
The roof decking is supported by the crate, also known as roof framing, which also disperses the weight of the roofing materials throughout the building. The design and construction of the roof crate can vary greatly depending on the type of roofing material used, such as metal roofing, asphalt shingles, or tiles. To guarantee adequate support and the lifespan of the roof, particular considerations for each type of roofing material must be made in the design of the crate.
The crate for an asphalt shingle roof usually consists of trusses or rafters that are spaced regularly apart to support the roof decking. Numerous factors, including the weight of the shingles, the requirements for snow load, and the local climate, influence the size and spacing of the rafters or trusses. For the shingles to last longer and avoid moisture buildup, the crate must have enough ventilation.
Conversely, because of the weight and expansion characteristics of metal roofing, a more sturdy crate structure is frequently needed. For the purpose of accommodating thermal movement and guaranteeing the stability of the roof over time, the metal roofing crate may come with extra supports and fasteners. To stop leaks and preserve the roof’s weatherproofing qualities, the metal roofing panels must be installed onto the crate correctly.
- What is the crate for
- Roof: terminological subtleties
- The purpose of the crate
- Types of design and material of the crate
- The design of the crate
- By type of styling
- By the number of layers
- Video: waterproofing (membrane, wind protection), a counterpart and a crate for a metal tile with your own hands
- Material for the crate
- Shields
- Table: Discharging of the sizes of shields of chipboard, fiberboard, OKP
- Table: Dependence of the thickness of the shield on the step of the rafter legs
- Board and beam
- Table: Dependence of the necessary thickness of the board on the step of the rafter legs
- Video: Board crate
- Metal for crate
- How much is a crate
- Table: cost of installation of crate
- Tools and materials for installation of the crate
- We build a different crate for different roof material
- Chatter under the soft roof
- Crate for rolled roofing material
- Bitumen tile
- False roof
- Flame crate
- Table: some sizes of metal tile sheets
- Chat under slate and ondulin
- Table: Spear sizes depending on the height and pitch of the wave
- Chat under tiles
- Chat under a fight
- Table: The step of the crate depending on the parameters of the fight and the number of layers
- Chat under sofitis
What is the crate for
You need to have a solid understanding of the roof’s structure before we discuss the crate.
Roof: terminological subtleties
Any building’s covering is its roof. It shields the interior of the house from temperature fluctuations, wind, and precipitation. The roof is made up of two or more inclined planes, or slopes, each of which is made up of a crate and a rafter structure. If there are two slopes, the slope’s edge that extends above the wall is referred to as over, and the slope’s horizontal closure is known as the skate.
Rafters: a kind of supporting structure made up of:
- vertical racks;
- inclined struts;
- rafter legs.
Lattice or continuous flooring fastened to rafter legs is called chatter.
The roof is a "pie" made up of a roof covering and layers of vapor, wind, and insulation that are installed on the crate underneath.
Insulation, a vapor and hydro barrier, and the attic provide warmth and coldness to the roof, respectively, beneath the crate. Residential attics are specifically utilized for the latter.
Waterproofing is always necessary, even if you can get by with a roof without thermal insulation if there is an attic.
The purpose of the crate
The following tasks are completed by the crate:
- serves as the basis for attaching the roof;
- naturally enhances the shape of the slopes and the design of the roof as a whole and helps to preserve its geometry for many years;
- perceives and evenly transfers to the rafters the load from the roof pie (up to 50 kg/m2);
- With the help of the counter, it prevents the formation of condensate on the border of the cold and warm layers of the roof pie in the case of a heated attic.
Condensate on the interior of the roof deteriorates the insulation’s thermal insulating properties by wetting the rafters and crate.
Types of design and material of the crate
The following considerations go into choosing the crate’s material and design (style):
- material and weight of the roofing;
- climate (it affects the type of roofing, and hence the design of the crate);
- pitch of rafter legs;
- The slope of the roof slope.
The design of the crate
The crate is divided into two categories based on the number of layers and the style.
By type of styling
The crate is separated into two types based on the type of laying.
- Distributed – when a step (clearance) between bars (boards) is from several centimeters to half a meter or more and calculated depending on the roof material. The crate is made of a timber of various cross sections, a trimmingboard and a metal profile.
- Continuous – when the distance between the bars (OSP shields, FSF plywood, trimming boards) does not exceed centimeters. A gap is needed for ditching temperature deformation – so that the flooring does not swell when heated. Regardless of the type of roofing material, such a crate is always made in the places of overhangs, intersections of the slopes and on the skate. It is applied both as the only layer, sewn directly on the rafters, and as a second part in a two -layer crate. The latter is a good way to save on the thickness of the shields or boards.
By the number of layers
The crate is separated into three types based on how many layers it has.
- Single -layer – the only layer of the crate (continuous or sparse) is placed on the rafters horizontally, parallel to the skate.
- Two -layer – the lower layer is placed as in the first case, but with a larger step (50-100 centimeters). Shields or boards are laid on these bars from the skate to the overhang – at an angle of 45 ° to the beam of a rarefied crate.
- The presence of a third element- a counter-control system that is laid on top of the waterproofing material on the rafters and serves as the basis for the rarefied part of the above two-layer structure depends on the presence of insulation in the roof pie and vapor protection.
Waterproofing materials, such as subcutaneous microphorized film, roofing parchine, or roofing material, are positioned in horizontal canvases, beginning at the bottom of the overhang, to create the hydraulic tank that will shield the insulation from condensate.
Video: waterproofing (membrane, wind protection), a counterpart and a crate for a metal tile with your own hands
Material for the crate
Certain types of crates are suitable for different materials, or combinations of them.
Shields
Because they have a perfectly even surface and let you close a sizable area all at once, shield materials are convenient. Typically, roofing products include the following items.
- DVP-wood-fingering plate, made of wood fibers in a wet method without binding compositions or dry resins;
- DSP-wood-bearing plate, made by hot pressing of wood chips and phenol-formaldehyde resins;
- OSP-oriented-brown plate, pressed from oriented flat chips with phenol-formaldehyde resins, contains up to 95% of the tree. For continuous crate is used more often than other leaf materials;
- FSF – plywood of increased moisture resistance, made of birch bin, pine or beech with phenol -formaldehyde resins.
The shields themselves are arranged in a checkerboard pattern with their long sides laid parallel to the skates. The edges are fastened to the rafters every 15 centimeters along their entire length using self-tapping screws or nails. To account for the heat’s linear expansion, leave a space of 3 to 7 mm between the sheets.
We provide some extra information.
Table: Discharging of the sizes of shields of chipboard, fiberboard, OKP
Minimum dimensions, mm | Maximum dimensions, mm | Thickness, mm | |
DVP | 2140×1220 | 2745×1700 | 3.2 |
Chipboard | 2750×1830 | 2750×1830 | 16 |
OVP | 2240×1220 | 2500×1250 | 6-25 |
FSF | 525×1525 | 1500×3000 | 6-12 |
Table: Dependence of the thickness of the shield on the step of the rafter legs
Rafter step, MM |
OSP thickness, fiberboard, chipboard, mm | Thickness FSF, mm |
About 300 | 10 | 9-12 |
About 600 | 12-15 | 12-18 |
About 900 | 18-25 | 18-21 |
About 1200 | 21-27 | 21-27 |
About 1500 | 27 | 27 |
The benefits of shield chatter
- The ease of installation of the plates already raised to the roof;
- suitability for soft roofing materials;
- Relative cheapness.
- the complexity of the rise to the roof;
- fire hazard (requires special processing);
- low resistance to mold and fungi (requires special treatment);
- deformability from moisture drops (requires dry weather during installation).
Board and beam
The most typical crate material. The ideal condition for coniferous rocks is a moisture content of no more than 20%. An uneven or trimmed board is used, depending on the circumstances. Because pilocamate is far more likely to crust, its width is limited to 15 centimeters. Nails that are the same length as the double thickness are used to fasten boards to the rafters, either with a pre-calculated step (with a rarefied crate) or with a gap between them of 3–5 mm.
Table: Dependence of the necessary thickness of the board on the step of the rafter legs
Rafter step, mm | Board thickness, mm |
About 300 | 20 |
About 600 | 20-23 |
About 900 | 23-30 |
About 1200 | 30-37 |
About 1500 | 37 and above |
It is preferable to use a block with a cross section of at least 50×50 mm in place of a board if the rafter step is more than 80 centimeters. Typically, a 30 by 50 mm block is sent to the counter.
The tree needs to be dried because it breaks easily and releases nails when left untreated. It also needs to be treated with antiseptic and antipyreen beforehand.
Горбыль — плоской стороной вверх — пускаят αорѱыль на обрешётку пкономии.
The benefits of using the board for making the crate:
- ease of rise to the roof;
- environmental friendliness;
- price availability.
- complexity in laying (requires some skills);
- fire hazard (requires special processing);
- low resistance to mold, fungi, insects, rodents (requires special processing);
- a tendency to deformations from moisture differences (albeit less than the shields, but requires thorough flooring and dry weather during installation).
Video: Board crate
Metal for crate
A metal profile is used to make crates for load-bearing walls in buildings that are at risk of fire, such as garages and industrial buildings. If the slope of a building is longer than six meters, it can also be applied to other kinds of buildings.
Only a rarefied crate is present.
The crate’s metal components are categorized based on:
- type – a pipe of round or square section, the so -called hat profile, corner;
- material – from galvanized, painted or stainless steel;
- cross section;
- length;
- The method of staining.
Self-tapping screws or welding are used to mount the metal crate (assuming the rafter system is metal as well). Its manufacture typically uses a hat profile.
Benefits of a metal box:
- size accuracy;
- easy increase (profiles are simply connected overlapping);
- high bearing capacity (strength is twice as high as that of a tree);
- the ability to use large areas with long slopes for roofs;
- suitability for industrial structures;
- high resistance to corrosion;
- absolute resistance to deformation from moisture drops;
- fire resistance;
- Absolute resistance to mold, fungi, rodents, insects;
- Installation and dismantling work are possible in any weather conditions;
- almost limitless service life.
- complexity of installation (requires skills in working with metal and/or welding);
- Relatively high price.
In "All about the Roof," we examine how crucial roof decking is to the stability of different kinds of roofing materials. Often referred to as the roof "crate," roof decking provides the strong base necessary to guarantee the longevity and functionality of metal sheets, shingles, tiles, and other common roofing materials. For both professionals and homeowners, knowing the subtleties of decking is essential because it affects the longevity, insulation, and integrity of any roofing system. In order to enable readers to make knowledgeable decisions for their roofing projects, this article explores the significance of selecting the appropriate decking materials and construction techniques suited to various roofing types."
How much is a crate
I had trouble figuring out how much the material in our study cost on average. There are too many variables: the crate’s design, material, and roof area all affect the board and timber’s cross section and number. There are a lot of calculators on the network; we obtain the price after you enter all the information. I think the StroyDay website calculator is the most comprehensive and balanced, so I suggest using it.
Similar to that, all I can provide is the average price per square meter for the work of professional masters.
Table: cost of installation of crate
Installation 1 m 2 crate (the price is indicated for an area of 100 m 2) | Price, rub |
Installation of the counter | 70-90 |
Installation of a sparse crate | 80-120 |
Installation of continuous crate from the board | 170-220 |
Installation of continuous crafts from shields on a finished basis | 120-170 |
Tools and materials for installation of the crate
These materials are required for the construction of the crate.
- Brick of the selected section without knots.
- And/or a blackboard with a minimum of knots.
- And/or shields of plywood, OSP, chipboard, fiberboard.
- Or metal hat profile of the selected section.
- Nails, screws, rubber or metal washers.
You will also require a standard toolkit.
- Hacksaw or disk saw.
- A grinder for cutting metal (although it is not worth using it on the roof due to flying sparks).
- Hammer and kiyanka (for a metal roof without folds).
- Electric drill with cords on metal and wood.
- Hydraduate or leveling.
- Construction roulette.
- Template for the crate.
We build a different crate for different roof material
Let’s take a closer look at a few different kinds of roofs.
Chatter under the soft roof
Bitumen tiles, or roll and piece material, are components of the soft roof.
Crate for rolled roofing material
Underneath soft roller covering materials, such as roofing material, metal insulators, polymer-bitumen materials, and polymer membranes, a single- or two-layer solid flooring is needed, ideally made of shields.
The knots in the chopper’s boards should be submerged, just like the nail hats. Tin strips need to be packed on gaps larger than one centimeter. A beam or boards should be rounded with a shirt or even sheathed with a strip of roofing tin in the areas where the coating covers the sharp edge of the shield.
In order for the tree to grow beneath the roof in a dry form, the roof must be installed on dry days.
Bitumen tile
Despite their name, bitumen tiles are also a type of soft roof. Bitumen, stone granulatory, and glass chloride (base) are the ingredients. Only a continuous double or single crate made of any material will work in this situation as well. Creating an absolutely smooth surface is crucial.
False roof
Falts roofs are composed of rolls or sheets of metal, either copper, zinc, aluminum, or steel coated with a polymer and joined by a process known as folding. There are two types of folds: single and double, which can both be in a lying or standing position. False falses typically have horizontal seams covered by vertical ones when standing.
The roof still occasionally rests on traditional galvanized iron, and the folder is still made by hand by skilled artisans.
However, unique roofing sheets with ready-made self-extinguishing folds that measure 0.55 by 8 meters are far more frequently utilized.
The folding roof should ideally be installed on a continuous crate that is covered in vapor and hydro barriers. The specifications for a continuous crate are identical to those for installing a soft roof; the only difference is that cracks are not as dangerous. It is unavoidable for roofs with intricate architectural designs and modest slopes of up to 15 degrees. In other situations, you can save money on a continuous crate.
The roofing metal will bend if the rarefied crate is used; therefore, it is crucial to accurately determine and follow its step. Twenty centimeters is about the most reasonable step. Use metal profiles, 32×100 mm boards, or 50×50 mm beams. A hydraulic tank with a counter is necessary beneath the metal coating.
The crate is fixed from the overhang; it is advised to construct continuous board sections where there are overhangs, joints, and intersections. It is especially crucial to treat the wood beforehand with an antiseptic or even color because metal can corrode. Either way, you have to paint over the nail hats and drown.
I will share the supervision. I changed the roof of my house in 1926. Builders used to do with a pitch of about fifty centimeters for the crate – of course, without a counterparty and waterproofing, and a thick non -stone iron lay on the roof. Thanks to this, and also – a large slope of the roof and regular coloring, it is satisfactorily preserved from the outside. But when these sheets were removed from the roof, we saw that they were deeply rustled from the inside. Moreover, Rusty went in strips – in those places where the codes did not fit to the iron and the air of the attic acted on the metal. From which I made the correct conclusions: I replaced not only iron, but also a crate – with a continuous, with a well -created hydro -barrier.
Flame crate
Metal tiles are a hybrid material consisting of coated metal sheets and slate. Beneath it are made a solid crate and a permissible one with a step that matches the wave of metal tiles. The installation of counterparts and a hydraulic barrier is also required here.
Table: some sizes of metal tile sheets
The name of the brand | Sheet width, mm | Profile, mm | Thickness, mm | ||
Gabarit | Useful | Height | The step of the wave | ||
"MP Monterrey" | 1180 | 1100 | 25 + 14 = 39 | 350 | 0.4-0.5 |
"MP supermontterrey" | 1180 | 1100 | 25 + 21 = 46 | 350 | 0.4-0.5 |
"MP Maxi" | 1180 | 1100 | 25 + 21 = 46 | 400 | 0.4-0.5 |
The sparse crate’s step should precisely match the 350–400 millimeter wave step of a standard metal tile. A cutting board measuring 25 by 100 mm or a beam with a cross section of 40 by 40 mm will suffice.
A continuous floor is required in the regions where the roof overhangs, joints, and crosses in order to prevent screws from falling through the timber and into the air when attaching the additional metal tile components.
Chat under slate and ondulin
Slate (German: Schiefer, slate) is the general term for roofing and facing wall materials; it usually refers to shale slate or asbestos cement. Wikipedia The URL is %WikiD0%A8%D0%B8%D1%84%D0%B5%D1%80 80 at https://ru.Wikipedia.Org.
Slate is both flat and wavy. Even though slate is brittle in and of itself, the wavy material is far stronger because of the stiffness rib, which is why it is used far more frequently. It is separated into two categories based on the wave’s height and steps: 40/150 mm and 54/200 mm.
Table: Spear sizes depending on the height and pitch of the wave
Sheet size, mm | Profile | |
40/150 | 54/200 | |
Length | 1200-1750 | 1200-1750 |
Width | 680-1130 | 680-1125 |
Thickness | 5.8 | 6-7.5 |
The crate beneath the slate is typically constructed from a beam that is always perpendicular to the rafters. The timber section is 50×50 mm and the chatter step is approximately 50 cm for small sheets (1200 × 680 mm). The beam cross section measures 75×75 mm, and a step measures approximately 80 cm for unified sheets (1750 × 1125 cm).
The sheet should lie at least three bars, often put it on four. To achieve uniform load, tight contact of the sheets with the flooring and with each other at the place of overlap, it is necessary to use the bars of different heights: with a three -brus support, clock bars should be 3 millimeters of the thickness of the unclean ones, at four -brus – the second and third bars, respectively, 2 and 4 millimeters, respectively, basic. Cornice beam is made higher by 6 mm. In this case, either a beam of different sections is used, or its height changes using a lining of roofing material or chips. In the areas of overhangs, joints and intersections of the slopes, it is recommended to make continuous sections from the boards.
Every one of these laws also applies to the Ondulin (Euro-Shifer) crate. First produced in France in 1944, ondulin has a color similar to slate, is four times easier to use, and is free of dangerous asbestos. All you have to do is adjust the chatter’s step to match the leaf ondulin’s measurements, which are 2000x950x3 mm:
- with a roof slope 10-15 about the step – 40-50 centimeters;
- If the slope is cooler, you can increase the step to 60 centimeters;
- For gentle roofs with a slope of less than 10 about, a continuous crate is required.
Chat under tiles
The roofing master’s highest qualification is represented by the cap on the tile. One of the oldest roofing materials is tile, which hardly ever wears out.
My childhood home was on the ground floor. Near the gate stood a barn that belonged to my grandfather and was covered in ceramic tiles. The tile has never changed, as far as I can recall. In addition, I sold this tile and it was carefully disassembled and removed when the barn was demolished. Though she is over a century old, she presumably still makes her new owner happy.
The tile now occurs:
- ceramic;
- cement-sand;
- polymer -cement;
- metal.
Traditional ceramic tile drawbacks include their high cost, fragility, and severity. Although less expensive, cement-sand has the same issues. As a result, they combined melted polymer and sand to create a polymer-sand tile.
The working part, overhang, and spike lengths are added up to determine the length of a single stream. The overhang of the subsequent element covers the spike of the preceding element.
For tiles, a 50×50 mm sparse crate is required; for larger ceramic and cement-sand tiles, it is 60×60 mm. In cases where the sparse lathing is situated on a continuous flooring that has a water barrier, additional elements such as a counter-lattice or a type of double structure are necessary.
The main subtlety is the calculation of the step of the crate, equal to the covering length of the tiles, and the most accurate embodiment of these calculations in practice. The slope should be covered by the whole number of skulls in length and width. There are many sizes of tiles, so the desired step of the crate fluctuates between 15 and 40 centimeters. The skating bars are placed with a detachment from the ends of the rafters so that the tiles of the skate rows do not close. The gap is closed with skating tiles. In the areas of overhangs, joints and intersections of the slopes, you need to make continuous sections from the boards.
If you create a template that is the same length as the tile’s covering length, the tiles will move much more quickly.
Chat under a fight
Dranca, she’s Gont and Schindel, the wood-shingled flat plates. This tile can be described as wooden.
The beam for laying the crate is thinner at 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm because it is simpler than a real tile. Pitch is determined by counting the number of layers in addition to the size of the shingles. Similar to regular tiles, a double crate of the same kind is more frequently utilized.
Table: The step of the crate depending on the parameters of the fight and the number of layers
Dranke"s length, mm | The number of layers | The step of the crate, mm |
500 | 2 | 240 |
3 | 165 | |
600 | 2 | 290 |
3 | 200 | |
700 | 2 | 340 |
3 | 230 |
Chat under sofitis
The insulation’s ability to prevent moisture from getting wet and penetrating the lower side of the rafters must be sealed inside the roof to keep rodents out and prevent the rafters from rotting. Plywood, tin, and lining were traditionally used for this. The crate itself is also traditionally made, and the process is visually determined.
However, normal ventilation is not provided by the tin, plywood, or lining. Perforated panels, also known as sophiths, are a fantastic substitute that offer protection and ventilation for the area beneath the wrapping.
- vinyl frost -resistant – bright and durable;
- steel with a polymer coating – also durable, but fade in the sun;
- aluminum;
- copper – with the longest service life.
Mounting profiles, J-profiles for fastening (Sofites are inserted into them) and H-profiles for connecting sophithic sutures, are already included with Sofites.
As a result, the only thing left to do to build the crate is to install two guides for these profiles from the bar.
Roofing Type | Crate Device Description |
Asphalt Shingles | A wooden or metal framework laid over rafters to support the shingles, providing a solid base and ensuring proper drainage. |
Metal Roofing | Typically uses a solid sheathing or skip sheathing with purlins or battens to create an even surface for securing metal panels or shingles. |
Clay or Concrete Tiles | Requires a strong framework of wood or metal to bear the weight of the tiles, with battens or counter battens for securing and spacing. |
Slate Roofing | Uses a strong and precisely spaced framework of wood or metal to support the heavy slate tiles, ensuring proper weight distribution and longevity. |
The longevity and efficacy of different roofing materials depend on the correct construction of a roof framework, also referred to as the roof deck or roof substrate. Whether you choose sleek slate tiles, long-lasting metal roofing, environmentally friendly green roofs, or classic asphalt shingles, the supporting and securing of these materials depends heavily on the underlying roof structure.
A solid plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) deck offers a stable foundation for asphalt shingles. In order to prevent sagging and potential damage, properly spaced and fastened rafters or trusses ensure that the weight of the shingles is distributed evenly. On the other hand, a continuous, solid deck is necessary for metal roofing in order to prevent flexing and to securely support the metal panels or shingles.
Growing in popularity due to their positive environmental effects, green roofs require a sturdy deck to hold the extra weight of water, plants, and soil. Sufficient drainage and waterproofing are essential for preventing water intrusion and maintaining the roof’s structural integrity over time. Similar to this, a sturdy and uniformly spaced deck is necessary to support the weight of the slate tiles and keep them from shifting or cracking on slate roofs, which are renowned for their strength and beauty.
In conclusion, building a sturdy roof deck is essential regardless of the roofing material you select. It adds to your home or building’s overall durability, energy efficiency, and aesthetic appeal in addition to supporting the roofing material. You can increase the lifespan and performance of your roof and reduce long-term maintenance costs by being aware of the particular requirements of each type of roofing and making sure the roof deck is installed correctly.