A roof device from a metal crate on a wooden crate

The pros and cons of metal vs wood roofing materials have long been a source of discussion for both builders and homeowners. Every material has a unique set of benefits and things to keep in mind. Metal roofs are highly valued for their resilience and longevity, frequently needing little upkeep for decades at a time. In addition, they are resilient to fire and severe weather, which makes them a sensible option in many areas.

However, wooden roofs have a classic aesthetic appeal that complements a variety of architectural designs. Wood is a natural insulator that offers superior soundproofing and thermal protection. Additionally, it makes complex designs and easier customization possible, giving residential properties a distinct charm.

A hybrid roofing system that combines metal and wood offers a creative way to combine the best qualities of both materials. A roof device can be made that strikes a combination of practical functionality, aesthetic appeal, and durability by using a metal frame supported by a wooden structure.

The main structural component is the metal crate, which provides strong support and structural integrity. Usually, steel or aluminum are used in its construction because of their strength and ability to withstand corrosion. The stability and longevity of the roof are guaranteed by this metal framework.

In the meantime, the wooden crate adds more insulation and thermal control to the metal frame, completing the look. The inherent qualities of wood aid in preserving a cozy interior atmosphere by controlling humidity and temperature. In addition, it adds warmth and character to the roof that metal alone might not be able to provide.

This combination produces a roofing solution that combines classic charm with contemporary durability. It appeals to homeowners who want a roof that complements their homes’ architectural beauty while also withstanding the test of time. An attractive option worth taking into consideration is a roof device made of a metal crate placed inside a wooden crate, regardless of your priorities: durability, energy economy, or visual appeal.

Do -it -yourself metal roofs: overview of the correct roofing pie + thinness

The technical and engineering "alloy" of steel strength and traditional roofing ceramics’ beauty is the metal tile. Light-profiled sheets please installers with their comfortable sizes and almost have no effect on the building’s weight. The capacity to autonomously complete the full roofing cycle without the paid involvement of builders is a secure plus in the material’s piggybank of needs. You only need to learn the basics of how the metal tile roof is constructed by hand, as well as the intricate details of the device’s operation and regulations.

The presently well-liked coatings’ wavy metal sheets have dual defense against airborne threats. The hot zinc containers are used to submerge steel profiled blanks in order to create an anti-corrosion layer on their surface. The material’s exterior is then coated with a colorful polymer shell that serves both protective and aesthetic purposes.

However, if the roofing pie is set up incorrectly, then both degrees of defense won’t be able to withstand the attacks of rain and household fumes. Condensate will build up in the area beneath the coating and will eventually, albeit slowly, reach the metal. Moisture will cause the insulation to lose its insulating properties. Woody materials will absorb moisture and rot as a result.

Additionally, relying solely on the impressive and lightweight material sheets is not worth it. A sturdy enough rafter system and crate are required to ensure that every component is fixed at the necessary number of points. As a result, proper preparation is needed for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e., familiarizing oneself with the subtleties of the roof pie, crate, and rafter structure structure.

Insulated and cold roofs are constructed with metal tiles. Steel or aluminum components can be used to erect the cold type rafter system. However, wood remains the preferred material due to its ease of coating sheet attachment. More robust rafter farms are needed for insulated buildings because thermal insulation will be placed in between the legs. Since it is improper to use metal in these circumstances, warm roofs are constructed using wooden rafters supported by crates.

Be aware that pitched roofs with a minimum steep slope of 14º may accommodate the device of a metal tile roof. The ideal range for roof steepness is from 15 to 20 degrees.

There are specific guidelines to follow when building a rafter system for a warm roof with metal tiles. They are as follows:

  • The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing rafter system is more than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
  • The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. Recommended board height 100 or 150mm, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
  • The insulation laid in the spacer between the rafter legs should not contact traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the structure of the rafter structure, then an additional counter -rated 2 × 50 or 50 × 50 is packed on the rafters along their direction. She will create a gap of 3-5cm.

To guarantee airflow for wooden components, drill holes in the side rafter legs that are between Ø 2 and 2.5 cm. Hole formation is not required, but it is consistently advised by metal tile manufacturers. They should arrange them in two or three rows with a 30-cm step closer to the skate if there are worries about the structure deteriorating.

The rafter system’s geometric parameters should be verified prior to building the crate works that serve as the foundation for the fastening sheets. The lengths of the diagonals on rectangular slopes should be measured and confirmed. On the attic roofs of each slope segment individually along the length of the diagonals. Controlling the overhang’s and the skate’s horizontality as well as the placement of the rafter legs’ outer surfaces in a single plane are essential. Early geometry deviation detection will prevent more mistakes.

After confirming that the rafter farms are perfectly geometric, you can move on to the crate’s construction, where there are specific guidelines that follow by analogy:

  • The first reshetin – the lowest rail on the overflow should be higher than subsequent ordinary slats. For its construction, you need to take a bar thicker than for ordinary reshetin. For example, for the lower rail 50 × 50, and for all subsequent 30 × 50.
  • The initial rack of the crate should be clearly parallel to the cornice line.
  • The step between the first and second Reshetin 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails 30, 35 or 40cm. The step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
  • In the process of the device, the crate is taken through through passages through the roof and mounting devices for pipes are installed.
  • In the flaws, around the attic windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate is arranged from the board.
  • In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice bar. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, every wooden part of the crate needs to be treated with an antiseptic and a fire composition before it is installed.

In addition to serving as the foundation for fastening sheets, the crate also serves another crucial purpose. It creates a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and coating and creates ventilation ducts for air to move from the overhang to the ridge.

In order for air to enter and exit metal sheets without hindrance, the ventilation ducts need to remain free. They just hide behind a perforated ribbon that keeps trash and dust out of the roof pie from the side of the ridge and the overhangs.

If it is intended to install vinyl siding over the overhang or outfit the roof with well-organized gutters, cades are used to fortify the slope and give it a rough appearance. In circumstances where the binder uses a corny board, a board strengthening is not necessary.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves, pre -selected in rafters. The sizes of the grooves must correspond to the size of the board so that the overhang plane remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If the installation of long hooks used to fix the gutter is planned to be installed, grooves are cut in the cornice board to fasten them. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the frontal board. They are used when the installation of the drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The step of installing all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

If there is no structured drainage system on the roof, a frontal board is utilized. Galvanized nails are used to fasten it to the ends of the rafters. acts as a component for fastening different roofing components and add-ons, such as licking overhang. The end bar, which closes the waterproofing placed on top of the board, is supported by the end board. Apart from its aesthetic purpose, the bar fastened to the end board stops the roof from rattling.

Manufacturers of coatings frequently recommend licking overhangs made specifically for these uses by valves, like Vilpe or KTV. It is advised to install siding, profile, or vinyl siding for hemding cornices. Dobed come with the instructions and a complete set of connecting parts. You can bake a board with a gap for roof ventilation at a reasonable cost.

Whether or not the structure will be insulated determines the structure and composition of the metal tile roof pie. The only component utilized in the most basic undefined circuit is a waterproofing film. If there will be bending in the attic, a vapor barrier barrier will be used.

Three common layers make up the insulated roofing pie, which are as follows:

  • Vapor barrier. Located on the part of the future receipt of household fumes, t.e. From the inside of the rafter system. Her work consists in protecting the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to overhangs with an overlap at 10-15cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and in a single canvas are connected by adhesive tape. Between the internal cladding of the attic and vapor barrier, you should create a gap by installing the crate.
  • Thermal insulation. Mini-navigate plates are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined according to the instructions of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed by the disputes between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation of the slab are cut 1.5-2 cm wide than the distance between the rafters.
  • Waterproofing. She needs it as a barrier from atmospheric precipitation. They lay it from the outside of the rafter system before the construction of the crate, try to arrange immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid as vapor barrier, with stripes with similar overlap and mounting methods.

The waterproofing layer is applied so that at least 20 centimeters of its canvas overlaps the surrounding wall lines. Laying is done in the yndovs, or boat zones of the slopes, with overlaps of 20 to 30 cm. There needs to be a space between the waterproofing and the skate to allow air to flow freely.

One important requirement is that bitumen water-repellent materials cannot be used to waterproof a roof cake when installing a metal tile roof. To transfer the steam and condensate that have built up in the insulation, waterproofing is necessary.

The material utilized determines how the water-repellent layer device is made:

  • The classic version of waterproofing is a reinforced or non -reinforced plastic film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by a rafter system and is located between the insulation and film, the second is formed by a crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
  • The superdiffusion membrane can work perfectly with one ventilation gap 3-5 cm wide. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using polymer material in the breakdown of contact between waterproofing and insulation, there is no sense. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture outward, preventing from entering.
  • Anticandenate materials with a fibrous surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washing air, which should be provided by the path. Therefore, this option also needs double -circuit ventilation, like a classic. It is used mainly when arranging cold roofs.

With the exception of polymer waterproofing, all insulating materials are laid with sagging. Thus, it is imperative that the film not shatter during tearing. Only the membrane, which has the capacity to stretch, does not require sagging with sagging.

Waterproofing around the roof’s through passages begins five to seven centimeters down the walls of the communication pipes. It is ideal to install an extra waterproofing layer around pipes and other vulnerable areas of the roof.

Prior to installing metal tiles, these must be done:

  • Cornice strips, eliminating penetration into the subcutaneous space of dust and garbage. Mount them on top of the ventilation ribbon and legs of drainage hooks attached to the ends. The strips are attached to the frontal and cornice board with self -tapping screws with a step 30cm. So that the rattles of the wind does not occur, these metal parts are installed with an interference.
  • Cornice droppers that are located under a waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
  • Lower Endova, enhancing the protection of the concave corners of the roof. Is a metal corner that repeats the shape. Mounted on top of a continuous plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice of the board. In almost flat mosses, the plank flooring is equipped with an additional waterproofing strip. Lower Endova is screwed with self -tapping screws every 30cm. Porous seal is covered on top of the lower yendova.
  • Protective circuit around chimney pipe crossing the roof. It is performed using metal straps of the contour, the upper edge of which is attached to the stroke formed in the walls of the pipe and treated with sealant. Stroke in the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply to the arrangement of adjacency to the walls.
  • Lightning rifle required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

There are three major components to the lightning system. A lightning receiver is a steel or aluminum bar that ranges in length from 20 cm to 1.5 m and has a diameter of 12 mm. A single-core steel or aluminum wire that has been welded to the lightning reception serves as the second part of the current wrap. They lay current-lane, which leads to grounding, along the crate and on the walls. The third component of the system, grounding, consists of burying an iron beam 1.5 meters long or a steel sheet 1 meter by 1 meter, for example, at a depth of 1.5 meters.

Set up lags to move materials to the roof prior to installing profiled sheets. To prevent the coating from rising along a single sheet at the top, make temporary storage racks. Soft shoes, zeal, and accuracy are required for another home master to move along the roof. The sole advancement permitted for the work executor is in the deflection of profiled waves.

You can move from the first fixed sheet at least to the left and right when laying metal tiles. The primary feature is the overlap of the capillary groove with the leaf on top. Convenience is a key consideration when deciding on a styling direction. It is preferable to proceed, nevertheless, so that the component positioned above is instantly submerged beneath the preceding extreme wave and broken with a capillary groove. Thus, it won’t crawl and will be fixed right away.

Unquestionable guidelines for installing metal tiles:

  • Starting sheets are attached to the first sieve through the wave on top of the transverse step of the coating. Their lower edge goes 5cm per cornice.
  • All subsequent fasteners of the sheets are performed in the downtime of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
  • Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

The horizontal position of the sheet must be carefully controlled before fastening. One self-tapping screw is used to temporarily fasten it at the upper edge’s center after ensuring that the installation is flawless. Subsequently, the second sheet is placed, aligned, and temporarily fastened using a similar process. Leveled sheets cling to one another. They handle the third and fourth in a similar manner.

After laying and temporarily fastening a block of three to four sheets, the crate is screwed to. Fix the block everywhere. The only sheet that is not screwed to the crate is the extreme one, leaving room for it to be connected to the next element.

The only difference between the multiple rows of metal tile installation is that the rows of material will be joined together as well. The height of sheets increases vertically.

Profiled sheets work well with any kind of pitched roof. On the other hand, you will need to follow a different plan of action for the capable device of a holm or tent roof made of metal tiles.

Layouting of sheets on a triangle-shaped slope:

  • Find the center of the overhang and draw through it the central axis.
  • We take the first sheet and do the same actions with it.
  • We combine the axis of the slope and sheet in fact, verify the horizontal and verticality.
  • Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self -tapping screw in the center of the upper edge.
  • Install the sheets on the right and left of the central element of the coating by the usual method.

Excess is cut off after wavy sheets are fastened.

A homemade "devil" can be created with ease by trimming and marking the material for the arrangement of yends, triangles, trapezoids, and slanting slopes. Construct it using four 10-cm-wide boards. The boards are connected by the hinge principle and arranged in parallel pairs. An easy-to-use tool will assist in precisely outlining the cut segments.

You can begin the last few strokes after applying the wavy coating with a light soul:

  • Install the passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roof pie at the intersection are sealed with adhesive tape. The butt seams are filled with sealant.
  • Screw the end bar to the end board with self-tapping screws after 50-60cm.
  • Screw the upper bar of the yendov, putting a self -expanding seal in front of the coating.
  • Build a horse. To do this, the skate area is pasted over the waterproofing of the brand of the brand of the brand of the brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The horse is fixed with self -tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through the convex crest. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

The drainage system, snow holders, maintenance stairs, and fencing are installed if intended on the laid coating.

A thorough video instruction will be a great way to consolidate information about the device on the roof of a sturdy metal tile roof:

A metal tile roof is intricate and has many subtle details. But there’s nothing unnecessary about the technology. to become familiar with the device’s nuances and adhere to them in order to avoid having to replace the roof with the newest version.

Roof maintenance and repairs

"A major innovation in the roofing industry is the combination of a wooden base and a metal frame. By combining the stability of wood with the strength of metal, this hybrid structure not only increases durability but also opens up new possibilities for architectural style and practicality. Through the combination of these materials, roofs can be made to be both resilient and versatile, able to withstand a variety of environmental factors and still look good. It is essential for builders and homeowners looking for long-lasting, flexible roofing solutions to comprehend the advantages and factors to be taken into account when using this dual-material approach."

Roofing device made of metal tiles – styling technology

Metal tile roofing is made of galvanized steel and has a profile that resembles waves to mimic the design of ceramic tiles. It is among the most widely used materials in roof construction. To enable individuals to complete roofing tasks manually, construction stores offered a wide range of supplementary materials (such as skate profiles, yendovs, cornices, and pediment planks) for building a metal tile roof. We will describe the technology used in metal tile roofing in this article.

Characteristics of the material

Metal tape, a type of roofing used to create a warm or cold roof, is made of galvanized steel painted or coated with a polymer. Steel blanks are rented cold to make it. The metal tiles’ advantages are taken into account:

  • A light weight. One square meter of metal tile weighs 5.5-6.5 kg, which allows you to styling on a rarefied crate without enhancing the rafters of the roof.
  • Long service life. High-quality metal tiles, as well as additional elements of galvanized steel, are operated for more than 20-25 years with proper maintenance and timely repair.
  • Corrosion resistance. Zinc layer, polymer coatings reliably protect steel from water exposure, because the metal tile is not corroded.
  • High bearing capacity. Thanks to a wavy profile, the metal tile has a high bearing capacity and is not deformed under the influence of intensive loads.
  • Temperature drops. Temperature changes do not affect the strength qualities, integrity of the material, therefore it is used in all climatic zones.

Crucial! Single-sided and multi-sized roofs with a slope of at least 12 degrees are advised to have a layer of metal profile applied. Roofing material and early components such as yendovs, skates, cornices or pediments, drainage components, sofita for baking cornices, lightning protection, and snow retainers will be needed for the installation of the cold roof. A warm roof’s design suggests using vapor barriers and additional insulation.

The metal sheet’s construction

Potential dimensions of metal sheets for tiles

The choice of elements

Metal tile roofs are made of multiple layers, each of which interacts with the others to improve quality and longevity. Waterproofing, a crate, and roofing make up the structure of the cold roof, while a layer of insulation and a vapor barrier make up the warm roof. Skilled artisans advise selecting roof installation materials based on the following standards:

  1. When choosing metal tiles, only 2 indicators play the role – the height of the corrugation and the thickness of the steel. The higher these indicators, the greater the strength and the bearing capacity of the roofing. The required number of sheets is calculated based on the area of ​​the slopes and the useful area of ​​the canvas.
  2. Conductive elements, such as cornice and pediment bar, are acquired depending on the footage of overhangs, taking into account the overlap 15-20 cm. They are selected to match the metal tile.
  3. Endovs are used to equip joints between slopes in multi -sized, complex structures. They are steel planks in the form of a corner with a polymer coating.
  4. The skate profile is used to equip the roof skate. Skate elements, like the yendovs, are corners with fasteners of 20-50 cm. The wider the shelves, the better the profile protects the gap between the sheets of the material from moisture penetration.

Metal tile roofing apparatus

Remember that since a warm roof only has three layers, its design is far simpler than that of a warm roof. Still, any kind of roof can use roofing components. When preparing the junction of vertical and horizontal surfaces, the location of pipe and aerator passage through the slope, and the roofing canvas, high-quality premature elements help minimize the risks of leaks.

Roof pie

The foundation of the roof’s strength and longevity is a skillfully constructed roofing pie made of suitable materials that offers a sealed and robust covering. Four crucial tasks are carried out by the multilayer structure of the metal profile roof design: wind protection, vapor barrier, thermal insulation, and waterproofing. The following ingredients go into making the metal tile roofing pie:

  • Vapor barrier. It protects the rafter frame from the penetration of steam saturated with moisture, from the heated rooms of the upper floor or attic. Vapor barrier – a diffuse membrane that passes the air, but does not allow water to pass, it is attached to the lower surface of the rafters with a construction stapler.
  • Thermal insulation. The insulation is mounted between the rafter legs of the roof frame. The thermal insulation layer necessary to maintain the optimal temperature regime is calculated based on climatic conditions. The insulation is not included in the design of the cold roof.
  • Waterproofing. The waterproofing material is laid on top of the rafters to protect the wooden elements of the frame from moisture from the outside. A film or membrane is used as waterproofing. The use of roofing roofing roofing.
  • Contact. Reiki 2-3 cm thick, laid along the rafters, form a counterparty that forms a ventilation gap between the layers of a roof pie.
  • Chatter. The metal tile is mounted on the lattice crate, fixed perpendicular to the rafters. This construction element is responsible for the distribution of roofing weight and giving stiffness to the slopes.

Remember that the instruction calls for the use of auxiliary components that create a sealed coating that is shielded from moisture penetration on all sides. Even in the event of a severe downpour, leaks won’t occur if a metal roofing device is installed utilizing the values, the ridge profile, and different adjacent planks.

What makes up the roof pie

The metal tile roof’s front portion

Requirements for the crate

Metal tile installation is done on a sturdy crate foundation. The wooden boards or bars that are laid with space between them so that roofing material can be attached are referred to as the crate flooring. To avoid deformation, the roofing canvas should be supported by the crate’s components in three locations: the center, on the sides, and on the sheet itself. The crate is presented with the following requirements:

  1. The instruction prescribes to mount a crate for the flooring of a metal tile with a step of 30-50 cm, depending on the length of the roofing wave.
  2. The wood for the manufacture of the crate is treated with antiseptic and fire -blocking compounds to protect against decay and increase resistance to fire.
  3. In places where the valleys are attached, the ridge profile or snow retainers, the crate is reinforced with an additional element. This is done as the valleys and other mesh -sided elements are places of accumulation of liquid and snow, so the load on the rafters above.

Experts advise that the crate’s step should be as small as possible given the slope’s gentler roof. This instruction is explained by the fact that liquid and snow do not slide off of small-slope roofs immediately; instead, they must wait, increasing the load on the rafters and the crate.

For metal tiles, use Colelite.

Statement technology

Following the completion of the crate and rafter frame assembly, the metal tile is laid. You must install the frame during dry weather to prevent getting wet on the wooden components. It is not permitted to perform high-rise work in windy conditions for security reasons. to fortify the metallic outline. The instruction that follows is as follows:

  • Waterproofing material is laid on top of the rafter legs, starting with a roofing overhang. Laying is carried out with a slight sagging so that the waterproofing does not burst under the pressure of water. The film is attached to the rafters with a stapler, the overlap between the stripes is made 10-15 cm, gluing it with adhesive tape.
  • Along the rafters directly over the waterproofing, the rails of the counterparty are installed, which form a ventilation gap necessary to protect the roofing material from condensate.
  • Then, perpendicular to the rafter legs of the frame, the crate is fixed to the counter -scheme with a step equal to the wavelength of the metal profile.
  • Perform cutting sheets of metal tile to the size of the slope. If you buy the material directly from the manufacturer, then the cut is performed in the factory, so there will be no horizontal joints between the sheets. You can cut a metal profile out of production with a circular saw, an electrician or a hacksaw for metal.
  • Start laying from the lower right edge of the slope. If laying is performed in one row, then the sheets are attached one after another. If the installation goes in 2 rows, then first they lay the extreme sheet from the bottom of the ramp, then fix the sheet above it, then 2 sheets of the first row and so on.
  • The sheet is attached to the crate using roofing self -tapping screws with rubber press -shaped, which closes the fastener from the penetration of water. The screws are screwed strictly at right angles to the surface of the roofing material, leaving a gap of 1-2 mm, so as not to deform it. To fix 1 sheet requires 10-15 screws.
  • Metal tiles when installing, ribe each other by 1 wave. The location of the sheets is fixed by the screws through the capillary groove.

Take note! To prevent material deformation and chips on the polymer coating, do not twist the self-tapping screw when fastening the metal tile. It is preferable to use a screwdriver at low speeds for this task.

Technology for material styling

Method for mounting sheets

The mounting locations’ locations

Installation of additional elements

The metal roof device does not stop when roofing material is laid. It takes time to install ridge profiles, cornice strips, and yendovs to complete the structure and make it more resilient to atmospheric moisture. The tasks are completed in the following sequence:

  1. Install the ridge profile. OP is attached to the crate along the ridge connection with roofing self -tapping screws. To protect the ends of the profile, a special seal is used from water.
  2. Fix the values ​​and other fun -sided elements. To protect the joints between the slopes and the location of the vertical surfaces, special strips are installed.
  3. Cades and pedimental overhangs are equipped with special strips protecting from moisture and wind.
  4. Sewed cornice and pedimental overhangs with sophims. These perforated panels protect the lower surface of the slope, not protected by waterproofing, from contact with water.
  5. Install a drain, snow retainers and lightning protection.

Recall! Drainage straps, junctions, skates, and endovs are not "elements of the roof" that are meant to look nice. They serve the purpose of sealing the canvas to prevent leaks. Metal tile roofs can last 20–30 years, provided the roof pie is properly equipped and auxiliary components are used.

Components for metal tile roofs that are tabbed

Video instruction

Installation of a roof of metal tiles

Metal tiles are among the most sought-after and well-liked roofing materials available today because of its many benefits. It stands out for its honorable viewpoint, dependability, and durability. You have two options for creating the metal tile roof device: either do it yourself, using your own hands, or hire an expert.

If you make the metal tile roof correctly and competently, it will last you for many years.

Calculation of the material

The correct material must be chosen and calculated in order for the metal tile roof to last for many years and to please with its dependability.

It is imperative to remember the significance of the cornice bar and the advice against skimping on it. Sheets of metal tile are between 0.45 and 0.5 mm thick. Since the leaf is fixed at the very base, accounting for the protrusion, the length of the sheet is determined by calculating the length of the cornice and slope.

It is important to keep in mind that there are "waves" across the roof and "rows" along the slope when placing the proper number of sheet orders. A step is the space that separates the rows of metal tiles. It is important to keep in mind that the minimum length of a sheet should be 450 mm and that their length should not exceed 7 meters when placing an order.

You can sketch out the roof and "lay out" on sheets before proceeding with the roof installation. It is important to remember that joints and waves are one whole along the length and width of the roof when creating an arrangement. This plan will streamline the installation procedure and cut down on waste.

Instructions for handling metal tiles

Despite the metal tile’s strength, there are certain guidelines that must be followed when handling it. First, the ground is where the sheet installation should start. For every slope, sheets are unpacked and piled up. Only with safety gloves can you handle sheets! The sheet is held outside the stamp line in order to be moved. With the aid of the boards’ guides, the material must be raised to the roof.

Only soft-soled shoes allow you to walk on the metal tile, putting your leg parallel to the slope and walking on socks. You should never step on the wave’s crest and should only experience one seizure per leg. You should be aware that cutting metal tiles is far more challenging than cutting a simple steel sheet. You cannot use a "grinder" to cut the sheets because doing so would harm the protective layer and cause corrosion! Metal sawdust must be swept after cutting to prevent destroying the coating. You must wear mittens and safety glasses when working.

Preparatory work

To install metal tiles, you’ll need the following tools:

Tools for installing metal tiles

Cutting instruments include metal hand scissors, a small-toothed hacksaw, electric bitching scissors, an electrician, or a carbide-tipped disc saw.

Not only are instruments and the metal tile itself required for proper roof installation, but all of the parts, including the insulation, profiled gasket, end and wind planes, horse (cut, semicircular, etc.D.), and so on.

Self-tapping screws, which are used to mount the metal tile, should be made of premium stainless carbon steel with an anti-corrosion coating and a red layer that resembles an elastic band. This gasket is highly resistant to different kinds of pressure. The screws’ lifespan needs to align with the metal tile’s service life.

According to many experts, 8–10 screws (28 mm) are needed for every 1 square meter of coatings made of metal tiles (standard sheets). I would use the puck to fill the space between the fastener’s head and leaf. The screw should be inserted two centimeters into the center of the crate to cause the ERDM laying to be deformed. The gasket will form a sealed connection and rapidly revert to its initial state.

It is not recommended in metal tile installation instructions to screw the fasteners into the top portion of the sheet wave. This is not technologically advanced, highly inconvenient, and likely to marry. Additionally, you will only need to dig in the lower portions of the waves and perpendicular to the crate if you competently follow the installation instructions.

The device of the crate of the roof

One rafter is the collality for metal tiles. 2. Retaliation. 3. Film that is waterproof. 4. A vertical crate 5. The dozontin is horizontal at first. 6. There is a horizontal crate. 7. Film for vapor barriers. 8. Tape that is waterproof.

The waterproofing layer is laid first in the technology of roofing metal from metal tiles, greatly extending the life of the metal and roof overall. Counter-relics (50 mm) are used to secure the waterproofing film directly to the rafters. A 20 mm gap between the rafters is the maximum allowable sag. It should be borne in mind that the film is fixed overlapping (150 mm).

After that, a crate is installed, consisting of bars (50×50 mm) and boards (32×100 mm), which must be treated with an antiseptic. First of all, to the rafters, on top of which waterproofing is laid, falling bars are installed from the ridge towards the cornice, after which the crate boards are attached to them horizontally. The step of the crate can depend on the type of metal tile, in particular, on the profile, and on the slope of the roof slope. It can also depend on the resulting width of the leaf roof protrusion, which goes abroad the first bar of the crate. The first board from the cornice should be thicker than the rest (50×100 mm), the distance from the outer edge of the cornice board, t.e from the first board to the middle of the second, should be 300 mm. Then the labels are attached with a distance of 350 mm.

A solid crate is installed in yendovs, also around the chimneys, etc.D. On both sides of the ridge bar, it is necessary to install two additional boards, while the end strips must be raised above the crate, t.e. to the height of the profile of metal tiles. The bottom of the bottom is attached with self -tapping screws in the place where the inner joint of the slopes occurs to the continuous crate. Depending on the angle of the roof, a overlap of 100-150 mm is made when connecting the strips and then the sheets of metal tiles are laid, previously marked and trimmed. From above to the joint of sheets for beauty mount the bar of the upper.

When deciding between a wooden or metal roof, there are a number of important things to take into account. Metal roofs are renowned for their sturdiness and ability to withstand wind, rain, and snow. When compared to wooden roofs, which can eventually be damaged by rot and insects, they frequently require less upkeep.

However, wooden roofs have an enduring aesthetic appeal that can work wonderfully with some architectural styles. They offer naturally occurring insulation, which may lower energy expenses and aid in controlling interior temperature. To preserve their structural integrity, they might need more frequent maintenance and care.

Money is a major factor when choosing between the two. Due to their longevity and low maintenance needs, metal roofs may end up being more affordable in the long run despite their higher initial cost. While initially more cost-effective, wooden roofs may require more maintenance over time.

The decision between a wooden or metal roof ultimately comes down to your personal preferences, needs, and financial situation. You can make an informed choice that fits your home and lifestyle by being aware of the benefits and potential drawbacks of each option, regardless of whether durability, aesthetics, or cost-effectiveness are your top priorities.

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Alexandra Fedorova

Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

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