Roof diagram for metal tiles

Popular roofing materials like metal tiles are renowned for their sturdiness, visual appeal, and simplicity of installation. Metal roof tiles, which are made to resemble slate or clay roof tiles, are a lightweight substitute that blends contemporary design with classic technology.

Fundamentally, the metal tile roof diagram shows the parts and arrangement of a metal tile roof system. It offers a clear schematic that illustrates how every component—from the ridge caps to the underlayment—fits together to create a unified, weather-resistant barrier against the elements.

Important components of the diagram are usually the metal tiles themselves, which interlock to form a seamless covering that shields the supporting structure. The underlayment, a vital layer that improves thermal insulation and protects the roof deck from moisture, is located beneath the tiles.

Comprehending the roof diagram facilitates the understanding of installation and maintenance fundamentals for both contractors and homeowners. It draws attention to crucial elements like flashing, which guarantees longevity and structural integrity by preventing water from leaking into weak spots like valleys and chimneys.

A roof diagram for metal tiles typically includes sections such as: 1. Roof Ridge: Highest point where two roof slopes meet.
2. Eaves: Lower edges of the roof that overhang the walls. 3. Flashing: Metal pieces used to prevent water penetration at joints.
4. Underlayment: Protective layer beneath the metal tiles. 5. Valley: Internal angles where two roof slopes meet.

Calculation of the material

The correct material must be chosen and calculated in order for the metal tile roof to last for many years and to please with its dependability.

It is imperative to remember the significance of the cornice bar and the advice against skimping on it. Sheets of metal tile are between 0.45 and 0.5 mm thick. Since the leaf is fixed at the very base, accounting for the protrusion, the length of the sheet is determined by calculating the length of the cornice and slope.

It is important to keep in mind that there are "waves" across the roof and "rows" along the slope when placing the proper number of sheet orders. A step is the space that separates the rows of metal tiles. It is important to keep in mind that the minimum length of a sheet should be 450 mm and that their length should not exceed 7 meters when placing an order.

You can sketch out the roof and "lay out" on sheets before proceeding with the roof installation. It is important to remember that joints and waves are one whole along the length and width of the roof when creating an arrangement. This plan will streamline the installation procedure and cut down on waste.

Instructions for handling metal tiles

Despite the metal tile’s strength, there are certain guidelines that must be followed when handling it. First, the ground is where the sheet installation should start. For every slope, sheets are unpacked and piled up. Only with safety gloves can you handle sheets! The sheet is held outside the stamp line in order to be moved. With the aid of the boards’ guides, the material must be raised to the roof.

Only soft-soled shoes allow you to walk on the metal tile, putting your leg parallel to the slope and walking on socks. You should never step on the wave’s crest and should only experience one seizure per leg. You should be aware that cutting metal tiles is far more challenging than cutting a simple steel sheet. You cannot use a "grinder" to cut the sheets because doing so would harm the protective layer and cause corrosion! Metal sawdust must be swept after cutting to prevent destroying the coating. You must wear mittens and safety glasses when working.

This article delves into the fundamental components of a metal tile roof, offering a lucid diagram that delineates each element and its purpose. Knowing this diagram makes it easier for builders and homeowners to understand the structural integrity and effectiveness of a metal-tiled roof, from the sturdy metal tiles themselves to the underlayment and ventilation systems. This visual guide provides insightful information on how to ensure the longevity and performance of your roofing project, regardless of whether you’re thinking about installation or maintenance."

Preparatory work

To install metal tiles, you’ll need the following tools:

Tools for installing metal tiles

Cutting instruments include metal hand scissors, a small-toothed hacksaw, electric bitching scissors, an electrician, or a carbide-tipped disc saw.

Not only are instruments and the metal tile itself required for proper roof installation, but all of the parts, including the insulation, profiled gasket, end and wind planes, horse (cut, semicircular, etc.D.), and so on.

Self-tapping screws, which are used to mount the metal tile, should be made of premium stainless carbon steel with an anti-corrosion coating and a red layer that resembles an elastic band. This gasket is highly resistant to different kinds of pressure. The screws’ lifespan needs to align with the metal tile’s service life.

According to many experts, 8–10 screws (28 mm) are needed for every 1 square meter of coatings made of metal tiles (standard sheets). I would use the puck to fill the space between the fastener’s head and leaf. The screw should be inserted two centimeters into the center of the crate to cause the ERDM laying to be deformed. The gasket will form a sealed connection and rapidly revert to its initial state.

It is not recommended in metal tile installation instructions to screw the fasteners into the top portion of the sheet wave. This is not technologically advanced, highly inconvenient, and likely to marry. Additionally, you will only need to dig in the lower portions of the waves and perpendicular to the crate if you competently follow the installation instructions.

The device of the crate of the roof

One rafter is the collality for metal tiles. 2. Retaliation. 3. Film that is waterproof. 4. A vertical crate 5. The dozontin is horizontal at first. 6. There is a horizontal crate. 7. Film for vapor barriers. 8. Tape that is waterproof.

The waterproofing layer is laid first in the technology of roofing metal from metal tiles, greatly extending the life of the metal and roof overall. Counter-relics (50 mm) are used to secure the waterproofing film directly to the rafters. A 20 mm gap between the rafters is the maximum allowable sag. Remember that the film has a fixed overlapping length of 150 mm.

After that, a crate is installed, consisting of bars (50×50 mm) and boards (32×100 mm), which must be treated with an antiseptic. First of all, to the rafters, on top of which waterproofing is laid, falling bars are installed from the ridge towards the cornice, after which the crate boards are attached to them horizontally. The step of the crate can depend on the type of metal tile, in particular, on the profile, and on the slope of the roof slope. It can also depend on the resulting width of the leaf roof protrusion, which goes abroad the first bar of the crate. The first board from the cornice should be thicker than the rest (50×100 mm), the distance from the outer edge of the cornice board, t.e from the first board to the middle of the second, should be 300 mm. Then the labels are attached with a distance of 350 mm.

A solid crate is installed in yendovs, also around the chimneys, etc.D. On both sides of the ridge bar, it is necessary to install two additional boards, while the end strips must be raised above the crate, t.e. to the height of the profile of metal tiles. The bottom of the bottom is attached with self -tapping screws in the place where the inner joint of the slopes occurs to the continuous crate. Depending on the angle of the roof, a overlap of 100-150 mm is made when connecting the strips and then the sheets of metal tiles are laid, previously marked and trimmed. From above to the joint of sheets for beauty mount the bar of the upper.

Instructions for installation of metal tiles

The device of the roof of metal tiles begins both on the left side and on the right. If the work begins with the left end, then each subsequent sheet must be laid under the extreme wave of each previous sheet, while the edge should be exhibited according to the cornice with a protrusion of 40 mm. It is best to first fix 3-4 sheets on the skate using self-tapping screws. To make it easier to adjust the deviations of the overlap, the next sheet must be fixed with one self -tapping screw, always in the upper part of the waves, placing under the transverse fold. After leveling, the sheets are finally fixed, first the first sheet at the skate, and then the second. They are wrapped with a worship on top of the wave, while the groove on the edge of each sheet must be closed by a neighboring sheet. Further, each edge of the subsequent sheet, which must be mandatory with a groove, is laid under the previous fixed sheet.

Drilling the holes for the bolts is necessary. The bolts are then put on every other corrugated fold that is perpendicular to the sheets, at the bottom of the grooves, and inevitably on the lower side of the transverse fold. Using screws, all ensuing overlaps (each 250 mm long) are completed at the sheet’s transverse edge.

For metal tiles, end and wind strips serve both decorative and protective purposes; the neighboring plan is crucial. The end bar and the cornice bar share a similar design. On the slope’s lower edge, only the cornice bar and the end on the side ends are fastened. Cornices and wind planes help you preserve the overall structural integrity of your roof and shield it from damaging mechanical forces.

Installing the end bar (135-145×2000 mm) comes after the metal roof tile is put in place. It is installed above the crate to the height of a single tile wave, fastened to the side with self-tapping screws and to the top, where it clings to a metal tile sheet wave. The next end bar is installed 50 centimeters apart. The end bar is screwed after it has been aligned with respect to the tile. You must apply a seal to the joint between the metal tile and the end bar in order to enhance sealing.

In order for the metal roof to hermetically adjacent to the stoves or walls, an inner apron is made on the roof slope. To do this, the lower adjoining planks are used, which are applied to the walls of the pipe, then the upper edge of the bar on the wall is noted. After that, a strobe breaks through the intended line using a "grinder". Next, the dust is removed, and the strobe is washed with water. From the bottom wall of the pipe, the installation of the inner apron begins. The lower adjoining bar is cut in place, installed and fixed with self -tapping screws. Then, according to the same scheme, the apron is mounted on other walls. To exclude the possibility of leaks, installation is overlapped 150 mm.

Installed beneath the lower element of the inner apron is a flat sheet known as a "tie" (for water flow). This "tie" descends to the roof’s cornice or to the yendova. Using pliers and a hammer, a side is created along the "tie"’sedgeat the conclusion. The inner apron is covered with metal tile sheets that are "tied."

The last roof installation moment is the device of the top adjacency plan. The outer decorative apron is installed similarly to the inner apron, with the exception that its upper edge is fastened to the wall directly rather than being started into the strobe. This is a roof finishing piece that completes the roof’s functional duties and enhances its aesthetic appeal.

Do -it -yourself metal roofs: overview of the correct roofing pie + thinness

The technical and engineering "alloy" of steel strength and traditional roofing ceramics’ beauty is the metal tile. Light-profiled sheets please installers with their comfortable sizes and almost have no effect on the building’s weight. The capacity to autonomously complete the full roofing cycle without the paid involvement of builders is a secure plus in the material’s piggybank of needs. You only need to learn the basics of how the metal tile roof is constructed by hand, as well as the intricate details of the device’s operation and regulations.

The presently well-liked coatings’ wavy metal sheets have dual defense against airborne threats. The hot zinc containers are used to submerge steel profiled blanks in order to create an anti-corrosion layer on their surface. The material’s exterior is then coated with a colorful polymer shell that serves both protective and aesthetic purposes.

However, if the roofing pie is set up incorrectly, then both degrees of defense won’t be able to withstand the attacks of rain and household fumes. Condensate will build up in the area beneath the coating and will eventually, albeit slowly, reach the metal. Moisture will cause the insulation to lose its insulating properties. Woody materials will absorb moisture and rot as a result.

Additionally, relying solely on the impressive and lightweight material sheets is not worth it. A sturdy enough rafter system and crate are required to ensure that every component is fixed at the necessary number of points. As a result, proper preparation is needed for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e., familiarizing oneself with the subtleties of the roof pie, crate, and rafter structure structure.

Insulated and cold roofs are constructed with metal tiles. Steel or aluminum components can be used to erect the cold type rafter system. However, wood remains the preferred material due to its ease of coating sheet attachment. More robust rafter farms are needed for insulated buildings because thermal insulation will be placed in between the legs. Since it is improper to use metal in these circumstances, warm roofs are constructed using wooden rafters supported by crates.

Be aware that pitched roofs with a minimum steep slope of 14º may accommodate the device of a metal tile roof. The ideal range for roof steepness is from 15 to 20 degrees.

There are specific guidelines to follow when building a rafter system for a warm roof with metal tiles. They are as follows:

  • The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing rafter system is more than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
  • The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. Recommended board height 100 or 150mm, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
  • The insulation laid in the spacer between the rafter legs should not contact traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the structure of the rafter structure, then an additional counter -rated 2 × 50 or 50 × 50 is packed on the rafters along their direction. She will create a gap of 3-5cm.

To guarantee airflow for wooden components, drill holes in the side rafter legs that are between Ø 2 and 2.5 cm. Hole formation is not required, but it is consistently advised by metal tile manufacturers. They should arrange them in two or three rows with a 30-cm step closer to the skate if there are worries about the structure deteriorating.

The rafter system’s geometric parameters should be verified prior to building the crate works that serve as the foundation for the fastening sheets. The lengths of the diagonals on rectangular slopes should be measured and confirmed. On the attic roofs of each slope segment individually along the length of the diagonals. Controlling the overhang’s and the skate’s horizontality as well as the placement of the rafter legs’ outer surfaces in a single plane are essential. Early geometry deviation detection will prevent more mistakes.

After confirming that the rafter farms are perfectly geometric, you can move on to the crate’s construction, where there are specific guidelines that follow by analogy:

  • The first reshetin – the lowest rail on the overflow should be higher than subsequent ordinary slats. For its construction, you need to take a bar thicker than for ordinary reshetin. For example, for the lower rail 50 × 50, and for all subsequent 30 × 50.
  • The initial rack of the crate should be clearly parallel to the cornice line.
  • The step between the first and second Reshetin 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails 30, 35 or 40cm. The step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
  • In the process of the device, the crate is taken through through passages through the roof and mounting devices for pipes are installed.
  • In the flaws, around the attic windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate is arranged from the board.
  • In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice bar. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, every wooden part of the crate needs to be treated with an antiseptic and a fire composition before it is installed.

In addition to serving as the foundation for fastening sheets, the crate also serves another crucial purpose. It creates a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and coating and creates ventilation ducts for air to move from the overhang to the ridge.

In order for air to enter and exit metal sheets without hindrance, the ventilation ducts need to remain free. They just hide behind a perforated ribbon that keeps trash and dust out of the roof pie from the side of the ridge and the overhangs.

If it is intended to install vinyl siding over the overhang or outfit the roof with well-organized gutters, cades are used to fortify the slope and give it a rough appearance. In circumstances where the binder uses a corny board, a board strengthening is not necessary.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves, pre -selected in rafters. The sizes of the grooves must correspond to the size of the board so that the overhang plane remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If the installation of long hooks used to fix the gutter is planned to be installed, grooves are cut in the cornice board to fasten them. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the frontal board. They are used when the installation of the drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The step of installing all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

If there is no structured drainage system on the roof, a frontal board is utilized. Galvanized nails are used to fasten it to the ends of the rafters. acts as a component for fastening different roofing components and add-ons, such as licking overhang. The end bar, which closes the waterproofing placed on top of the board, is supported by the end board. Apart from its aesthetic purpose, the bar fastened to the end board stops the roof from rattling.

Manufacturers of coatings frequently recommend licking overhangs made specifically for these uses by valves, like Vilpe or KTV. It is advised to install siding, profile, or vinyl siding for hemding cornices. Dobed come with the instructions and a complete set of connecting parts. You can bake a board with a gap for roof ventilation at a reasonable cost.

Whether or not the structure will be insulated determines the structure and composition of the metal tile roof pie. The only component utilized in the most basic undefined circuit is a waterproofing film. If there will be bending in the attic, a vapor barrier barrier will be used.

Three common layers make up the insulated roofing pie, which are as follows:

  • Vapor barrier. Located on the part of the future receipt of household fumes, t.e. From the inside of the rafter system. Her work consists in protecting the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to overhangs with an overlap at 10-15cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and in a single canvas are connected by adhesive tape. Between the internal cladding of the attic and vapor barrier, you should create a gap by installing the crate.
  • Thermal insulation. Mini-navigate plates are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined according to the instructions of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed by the disputes between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation of the slab are cut 1.5-2 cm wide than the distance between the rafters.
  • Waterproofing. She needs it as a barrier from atmospheric precipitation. They lay it from the outside of the rafter system before the construction of the crate, try to arrange immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid as vapor barrier, with stripes with similar overlap and mounting methods.

The waterproofing layer is applied so that at least 20 centimeters of its canvas overlaps the surrounding wall lines. Laying is done in the yndovs, or boat zones of the slopes, with overlaps of 20 to 30 cm. There needs to be a space between the waterproofing and the skate to allow air to flow freely.

One important requirement is that bitumen water-repellent materials cannot be used to waterproof a roof cake when installing a metal tile roof. To transfer the steam and condensate that have built up in the insulation, waterproofing is necessary.

The material utilized determines how the water-repellent layer device is made:

  • The classic version of waterproofing is a reinforced or non -reinforced plastic film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by a rafter system and is located between the insulation and film, the second is formed by a crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
  • The superdiffusion membrane can work perfectly with one ventilation gap 3-5 cm wide. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using polymer material in the breakdown of contact between waterproofing and insulation, there is no sense. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture outward, preventing from entering.
  • Anticandenate materials with a fibrous surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washing air, which should be provided by the path. Therefore, this option also needs double -circuit ventilation, like a classic. It is used mainly when arranging cold roofs.

With the exception of polymer waterproofing, all insulating materials are laid with sagging. Thus, it is imperative that the film not shatter during tearing. Only the membrane, which has the capacity to stretch, does not require sagging with sagging.

Waterproofing around the roof’s through passages begins five to seven centimeters down the walls of the communication pipes. It is ideal to install an extra waterproofing layer around pipes and other vulnerable areas of the roof.

Prior to installing metal tiles, these must be done:

  • Cornice strips, eliminating penetration into the subcutaneous space of dust and garbage. Mount them on top of the ventilation ribbon and legs of drainage hooks attached to the ends. The strips are attached to the frontal and cornice board with self -tapping screws with a step 30cm. So that the rattles of the wind does not occur, these metal parts are installed with an interference.
  • Cornice droppers that are located under a waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
  • Lower Endova, enhancing the protection of the concave corners of the roof. Is a metal corner that repeats the shape. Mounted on top of a continuous plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice of the board. In almost flat mosses, the plank flooring is equipped with an additional waterproofing strip. Lower Endova is screwed with self -tapping screws every 30cm. Porous seal is covered on top of the lower yendova.
  • Protective circuit around chimney pipe crossing the roof. It is performed using metal straps of the contour, the upper edge of which is attached to the stroke formed in the walls of the pipe and treated with sealant. Stroke in the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply to the arrangement of adjacency to the walls.
  • Lightning rifle required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

There are three major components to the lightning system. A lightning receiver is a steel or aluminum bar that ranges in length from 20 cm to 1.5 m and has a diameter of 12 mm. A single-core steel or aluminum wire that has been welded to the lightning reception serves as the second part of the current wrap. They lay current-lane, which leads to grounding, along the crate and on the walls. The third component of the system, grounding, consists of burying an iron beam 1.5 meters long or a steel sheet 1 meter by 1 meter, for example, at a depth of 1.5 meters.

Set up lags to move materials to the roof prior to installing profiled sheets. To prevent the coating from rising along a single sheet at the top, make temporary storage racks. Soft shoes, zeal, and accuracy are required for another home master to move along the roof. The sole advancement permitted for the work executor is in the deflection of profiled waves.

You can move from the first fixed sheet at least to the left and right when laying metal tiles. The primary feature is the overlap of the capillary groove with the leaf on top. Convenience is a key consideration when deciding on a styling direction. It is preferable to proceed, nevertheless, so that the component positioned above is instantly submerged beneath the preceding extreme wave and broken with a capillary groove. Thus, it won’t crawl and will be fixed right away.

Unquestionable guidelines for installing metal tiles:

  • Starting sheets are attached to the first sieve through the wave on top of the transverse step of the coating. Their lower edge goes 5cm per cornice.
  • All subsequent fasteners of the sheets are performed in the downtime of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
  • Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

The horizontal position of the sheet must be carefully controlled before fastening. One self-tapping screw is used to temporarily fasten it at the upper edge’s center after ensuring that the installation is flawless. Subsequently, the second sheet is placed, aligned, and temporarily fastened using a similar process. Leveled sheets cling to one another. They handle the third and fourth in a similar manner.

After laying and temporarily fastening a block of three to four sheets, the crate is screwed to. Fix the block everywhere. The only sheet that is not screwed to the crate is the extreme one, leaving room for it to be connected to the next element.

The only difference between the multiple rows of metal tile installation is that the rows of material will be joined together as well. The height of sheets increases vertically.

Profiled sheets work well with any kind of pitched roof. On the other hand, you will need to follow a different plan of action for the capable device of a holm or tent roof made of metal tiles.

Layouting of sheets on a triangle-shaped slope:

  • Find the center of the overhang and draw through it the central axis.
  • We take the first sheet and do the same actions with it.
  • We combine the axis of the slope and sheet in fact, verify the horizontal and verticality.
  • Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self -tapping screw in the center of the upper edge.
  • Install the sheets on the right and left of the central element of the coating by the usual method.

Excess is cut off after wavy sheets are fastened.

A homemade "devil" can be created with ease by trimming and marking the material for the arrangement of yends, triangles, trapezoids, and slanting slopes. Construct it using four 10-cm-wide boards. The boards are connected by the hinge principle and arranged in parallel pairs. An easy-to-use tool will assist in precisely outlining the cut segments.

You can begin the last few strokes after applying the wavy coating with a light soul:

  • Install the passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roof pie at the intersection are sealed with adhesive tape. The butt seams are filled with sealant.
  • Screw the end bar to the end board with self-tapping screws after 50-60cm.
  • Screw the upper bar of the yendov, putting a self -expanding seal in front of the coating.
  • Build a horse. To do this, the skate area is pasted over the waterproofing of the brand of the brand of the brand of the brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The horse is fixed with self -tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through the convex crest. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

The drainage system, snow holders, maintenance stairs, and fencing are installed if intended on the laid coating.

A thorough video instruction will be a great way to consolidate information about the device on the roof of a sturdy metal tile roof:

A metal tile roof is intricate and has many subtle details. But there’s nothing unnecessary about the technology. to become familiar with the device’s nuances and adhere to them in order to avoid having to replace the roof with the newest version.

Roofing device made of metal tiles

There are two main methods for warming a house’s roof: the "warm roof" method and the "cold roof" method. The type of roof selected will determine how slightly different its device is. As a result, we start by taking into account the characteristics of each of these roof kinds before moving on to the components that are common to all of them.

Warm roof – how it is arranged and why it is called that

This roof features insulated roof slopes, making the attic cozy and suitable for setting up a dwelling—the so-called attic. And in order to accomplish this, you must perform several tasks, building an entire roofing system. Examine the mechanism of this roof.

We provide protection against water

Condensate may develop on the interior of the metal tiles. Waterproofing must be laid so that he does not drip on the insulation and get it wet. Membranes work well in this situation. They are superior to films that are steam-permeable. As a result, moisture peacefully moves outside rather than building up anywhere. Due to their superdiffusion properties, membranes save space and effectively carry out their intended functions (they are placed on the insulation without any gap).

Isolate the yendova first. Its whole length is covered with a roll membrane, which is applied from above. The identical brand of construction tape is used to glue the joints on the yendov and adjoins. Waterproofing is installed by rafters, rolling the rolls horizontally, from the cornice to the skate. The individual roll joints are made on the rafters, with a 15 cm overlap. The membranes must be properly stretched; sagging is not permitted.

Warm the roof, and then put vapor barrier

The "roof of the roof of metal tiles" is still being cooked. The insulation lies flat from the inside right behind the waterproofing membrane. Although other forms of insulation can be used, basalt wool mats are most frequently used for this kind of application.

The basalt fiber mats are positioned in between the roof rafters. Slabs of the second layer obstruct the joints between the first layer’s mats if more than one layer needs to be applied. If not, chilly bridges may become apparent. Over the insulation is a vapor barrier membrane. It is necessary to prevent interior evaporation from building up in the insulation.

Shielding the insulation from external and internal moisture intrusion.

Warm roof device made of metal tiles in general.

Features of the cold roof

This roof’s primary characteristic is that insulation is limited to the lowermost section of the attic, not the slopes themselves. The house temperature rises, and the inclines are aired out.

Protect the insulation from moisture

The cold roof of metal tiles permits the application of waterproof film in addition to the membranes already mentioned. In contrast to membranes, the films should sag by roughly 20 mm between the rafters to allow for condensate drainage. Regarding a warm roof, waterproofing needs to be applied horizontally, with a 15 centimeter overlap, from the cornice to the skate.

The overall mechanism of the chilly metal tile roof.

An important element of the roof – crate

Bars with a 50/50 mm cross section and a torn board in sizes 32/100 and 50/100 mm are used to make a crate. Two boards 50/100 are nailed along the cornice overhang at the base of the roof slope. Next, a doubleproofer is layered over the 50/50 mm waterproofing bars. From the skate to the bottom, bars are nailed along the rafters. The label boards are affixed horizontally to the top of this counter-stack with a specific step. The method by which these boards are attached will vary depending on the kind of metal tile profile that will be used to cover the roof.

Colelite equine

There is a need to harden the top of the roof. You must affix two boards to each side of the skate bar in order to accomplish this.

The ends of the roof

You must nail the boards that are larger than the main crate from the roof’s end to the metal tile’s profile height.

Chatter under the yendova

The endova is the inner joint connecting the roof’s two slopes. The crate is made continuous in the yndovs’ passageways.

Roof fence

It is constructed above the cornice overhang because it must be dependable. You can use the carrier wall’s height as a reference. In these locations, the crate is constantly required. Consequently, more boards are inserted in between the standard crate and a continuous base is created.

Elements of the roofing system

In order to design the metal tile roof, all roofing components must be fastened to the mounted crate and then taken into account.

Cornice bar, gutter holder and gutter itself

First, the gutter’s unique holders are fixed. After that, attach a groove to let water out. I only fix the cornice bar after that. Self-tapping screws are used to secure it to the crate, preventing the gutter’s edge from protruding from underneath.

The yendov roofs of metal tile

There may be more than one, depending on the form of the roof of such elements. The upper yndova, or decorative bar, is attached above the roof, while the lower yndova is fastened to the crate beneath it. The overlap between the lower yendov planks is at least 10 to 15 centimeters. Take a look at the picture above.


These nodes are required to adjust the roof tightly with pipes and walls. They are made up of the upper and lower planks, just like the Endovs. After creating an apron out of the bottom planks, a tie is placed underneath it with the intention of directing water into the yendova or out to the exterior cornice. The roofing is then fastened, with only the uppermost adjacent planks installed on top.

Installation of metal tiles

If the entire roof slope is enclosed by a sheet of metal tiles, installation begins at the skate. We measure the distance from the end and the cornice (which it should be five centimeters over) at the first sheet. Then, a metal tile is mounted, preferably from left to right (with the subsequent sheets overlapping the preceding ones) or at least from right to left (with the preceding sheets overlapping). It is necessary to verify the parallelity of the cornice for each of the three connected sheets. Screws that self-tap into the side overlap (upper point) are used. The crate cannot be permitted at the same time.

Now look at the metal tile roofing diagram where the length of the roof slope exceeds the material sheets. Initially, the sheets are attached along their entire length. Next, along the end, level the first four sheets. We use six or eight self-tapping screws (with an EPDM gasket) to secure each square meter of tile. The lower portion of the sheet is fastened to the wave’s bend where the material next to the crate meets it. The wave is installed, and then the next rows of screws are shifted in a checkerboard pattern.

Final elements of the roofing system


The end strips are installed starting from the top of the roof. After 50–60 cm, secure them with self-tapping screws. In this instance, there should be roughly 50 mm of overlap between adjacent strips.

Ridge strips

These components are rounded or flat. The latter also need to be fastened to their end of the plug. It is conical in shape and is secured with self-tapping screws or rivets. We put the seal (figured or universal) in place before putting the strips under the horse. Ridge screws are used to mount windows.

The device of ventilation and passing elements

For ease of installing air ducts, antennas, and other components, the following extra metal tile roof nodes are required.

Ventilation output

Every rafter span needs to have a ventilation output in order to have proper air exchange. One exit, however, is sufficient in the event that there is a non-stolen "cold triangle" beneath the roof itself, which is 60 square meters. The element is fastened to the edges of the hole created in the metal tile using self-tapping screws. In the event that the output kit does not contain silicone sealant, it is applied separately.

Sewer output

The riser is connected to the sewer output. A corrugated pipe is utilized for this. To install the passage element, a section of metal tile is cut out on the roof. The sewage exit is inserted into the passage element (which is fastened to the metal tile with self-tapping screws) following the installation of waterproofing, sealant, and sealing.

Exit for antennas and electric cables

In order to cover the locations of docking antennas, cables, and "sandwich" style chimneys with roofing, specialized antenna outputs are utilized. The antenna output’s rubber cap is removed, made 20% smaller than the pipe’s diameter, and pulled on. The antenna output base resembles the profile of a metal tile when it is smashed with silicone sealant and fastened to the metal tile with self-tapping screws.

1. Ventilation output; 2. Sewage exit and hood; 3. Antenna output in the picture, from left to right.

The device of safety elements and their purpose

It takes a sturdy staircase to reach the roof. It is made up of bracketed wall and roof stairs. Each section needs four Kronsteins, which are positioned where the solid crate meets the lower wave bending. Bolt shurups are used to fasten the brackets as well as the top of the roof staircase. The upper step of the wall staircase is positioned to face the cornice’s edge. The wall staircase itself in this instance ought to line up with the roof.


Having these metal components is a requirement for performing roof work. They are compacted with rubber laying and fastened with unique supports to a continuous crate that passes through the lower portion of the wave. Take a look at the picture above.

Transitional bridge

In order to safely walk on the roof from the attic window, hatch, or stairs, transition bridges are required. They are attached similarly to the fences; a continuous crate is not necessary.

Snow holders

The metal tubular structure of snow holders is painted in one of four colors: red, green, brown, or black. Above the cornice overhang, they are positioned all the way around the roof. Furthermore, they must be positioned above the front door, the attic windows, and the tops of all the levels of the multi-tiered roof.

Roofing Scheme System Metal Profile

The Metal Profile company’s roofing system scheme is shown below. All the nodes that were previously discussed are connected to the entire roof on it.

For many homeowners, metal tiles provide a strong and attractive roofing option. Typically, their structure consists of multiple layers intended to improve longevity and resistance to weather. Protecting the roof’s integrity from rain, snow, and UV rays is the topmost layer, which is composed of metal.

Temperature control within the building is aided by the structural support and insulation that a substrate beneath the metal surface provides. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, this layer helps metal tile roofs maintain comfort and energy efficiency throughout the year.

The pitch and structure of the roof must be carefully taken into account when installing metal tile roofing. When installed correctly, drainage is maximized and water pooling is avoided, which over time can cause leaks and damage. Comprehending the arrangement of the roof diagram is also necessary to accurately position tiles and optimize their functionality and longevity.

There are advantages to using metal roofing tiles beyond their strength and visual appeal. It’s an environmentally friendly option that will protect your property from the elements for a long time and raise its worth. Knowing the metal tile roof diagram will help you make decisions that satisfy your practical and esthetic requirements, whether you’re thinking about updating your roof or starting a new construction project.

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Why do you need a venturezor in the roof of the roof pie under the metal tile warm attic with your own hands

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Alexandra Fedorova

Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

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