Teling roofing technology

Modern roofing technology has completely changed the way we improve and safeguard our houses. One of the most innovative of these is "Teling roofing technology," a state-of-the-art method that blends sustainability and durability. Teling roofs are built to endure a variety of weather conditions, such as intense heat, rain, and snow, guaranteeing long-term dependability and low maintenance.

The superior materials and construction methods used in Teling roofs are what distinguish them. High-quality components that extend their lifespan and resilience, such as metal panels, composite shingles, and specially treated tiles, are frequently seen on these roofs. The home’s interior comfort and safety are guaranteed by the design, which includes effective water drainage systems that lower the possibility of leaks and water damage.

Beyond robustness, eco-friendly concepts are embraced by Teling roofing technology. In order to increase energy efficiency, many Teling roofs are made to reflect heat in the summer and hold warmth in the winter. Certain models incorporate solar panels or green roof features, which can lower energy costs for homeowners while simultaneously promoting environmental sustainability.

Selecting Teling roofing technology for your home is an investment in its future value, offering homeowners more than just a dependable roof. Teling roofs provide versatility without sacrificing functionality or beauty, with options catered to different architectural styles and environmental requirements. Teling roofing technology is a forward-thinking option for building and remodeling, whether it is used to improve a newly constructed home or to upgrade an existing one.

In addition to the tiles: the choice of materials for the roof pie

One of the most resilient roofing materials is ceramic tile. There are tiled roofs that have been in use for over a century, and renowned brands like German BRAAS have 40–50 year warranties on their products. It is crucial that the remaining roofing material be just as durable. If not, you’ll need to use technology to repair the roof’s tiles far sooner than you might think.

In order to make the roof’s service life impressive as a whole, rather than just the roof itself, select the following for the roof:

  1. Only well-dried lumber (residual humidity should be at the level of 8-12%), processed by fire retreats by immersion. The rafter system of such a tree will be resistant to fire and maintain stability even under high loads.
  2. Thick polyethylene film or foil canvas as vapor barrier. Such material will provide reliable protection of the roof pie from water steam for decades.
  3. High -quality membrane waterproofing, necessarily – with protection against ultraviolet rays. This material is easy to distinguish as long as possible as a temporary coating-3-6 months.
  4. Moisture -resistant insulation resistant to biological and chemical influences, which is not seated over time. These are, for example, polyurethane, PIR plate, extruded polystyrene foam, foam glass.

Additionally, make sure to treat the entire rafter system with antiseptics, fungicides, and, if possible, insecticides prior to starting the tile roof. This will shield the tree from fungal, mold, lichen, and insect damage.

Roofing device from tiles: installation technology of each layer

The traditional method of tile roofing works well on roofs that have an 18 ° slope (or 22–24 ° if we’re talking about a "beaver tail"). On more gradual slopes, tiles can also be installed, but the roofing process is very intricate. As a result, we won’t take this option into account.

So, these layers make up a typical insulated tiled roof:

  • vapor barrier;
  • insulation;
  • waterproofing;
  • chatter and counterbread;
  • Tiles.

The order of the layers in this list is based on an internal count. However, this does not imply that they have to mount them exactly that way. The roof device’s technology indicates that the roofer’s convenience and the weather will determine how the roof pie’s layers are fastened. It is especially advised to fix waterproofing first if there is a chance of rain. It is advisable to begin with a vapor barrier if clear, sunny weather is predicted.

Fixing vapor barrier

One of the walls has the vapor barrier film attached to it. The first roll is undone by shifting it to guarantee a 10-15 cm overlap on the walls. With brackets spaced every 10 centimeters, a construction stapler is used to secure the film to the rafters as it unwinds.

The vapor barrier’s second and subsequent stripes are installed with a 10 cm lateral (longitudinal) overlap. Concurrently, the intersection of the intersection is necessary. Use these to accomplish this:

  1. Acrylic tape, which is glued in the middle of the alleged overlap on the lower canvas (about 3-4 cm from the edge). In this case, when lining the roll, it is not only attached with a stapler, but also carefully pressed at the place of overlap to ensure the tightness of the joint. Roll rollers are great for clipping.
  2. Reinforced tape, which simply seal the joint line so as to block it approximately equally on each side.
  3. Special glue – A rare way to seal the joint. In this case, the adhesive composition, which comes with vapor barrier material, is applied to the overlap.

The location of the steam barrier to walls and other vertical structures, as well as the end (transverse) overflows, which are typically 15 cm, must also be glued. To guarantee the vapor barrier circuit, this is required. Additionally, sealing the fasteners is required, per certain instructions for installing a roof made of tiles. However, this is usually not the case because the paper clips pierce minuscule holes and nearly seal them.

The internal crate is filled to a height of 50–60 cm after a vapor barrier is placed on top of it. It offers both a solid foundation for installing insulation and the last fixation of the film.

The laying of the insulation

The tiled roof device’s technology dictates that thermal insulation material needs to be installed in two to four layers: two layers inside the rafters and two additional layers underneath. This is required to close off all potential entry points for the cold, such as rafter legs and the joints between insulation plates.

Installing roof insulation must come before installing a vapor barrier if you are determined to use tile installation technology. In this instance, it will appear as follows:

  1. Between the rafters, the first layer of thermal insulation is close closely.
  2. With a shift half the length of the plate, the second layer is mounted. This is necessary to block the joints between the slabs of the first layer.
  3. Under the rafters make a crate from boards of the same width with the same step. In them, they also put the insulation in two layers with a displacement.
  4. A vapor barrier is mounted on the bottom of the resulting structure and fixed it with another crate.

The most accurate roof pie design is this one, but due to its complexity and high cost, very few people make it. Usually, their only option is to install the insulation in between the rafters.

Installation of a hydraulic tank

The type of waterproofing determines the installation technique.

The canvas needs to rest directly on the insulation in order for the membrane hydraulic barrier to function as efficiently as possible. In order to ensure that the second layer of thermal insulation ends flush with the upper laying of the rafter legs, the thickness of the slabs is chosen accordingly.

The standard waterproofing film needs to be fixed with a 20 cm light sag. This is why ventilation is supplied for the insulation as well as the area directly beneath the roofing material.

The waterproofing, whichever kind it is, is rolled across the rafters, beginning at the cornice. There is a 15 cm overlap between adjacent canvases and a 10–15 cm overlap between the films in a row. Like with vapor barriers, all overlaps require glue. The panels are fastened using a construction stapler as well.

The paper clips are then sealed by adhering an acrylic tape along the rafters. Furthermore, the bars are packed with their equivalents, which offer both the ventilation gap and the last fixing of the hydraulic barrier.


The last step before the direct device of the roof from the tile is the installation of the crate. In case the counterattacks involve small bars measuring 30 x 50 mm or similar, then the crate usually has bars measuring 40 x 60 mm.

The kind of natural tile utilized, the slope’s length, and the roof’s angle all affect the crate’s step. You must become familiar with the manufacturer’s calculation rules prior to beginning work, as they must be stated in the installation instructions. Usually, the first thing they do when figuring out a step is figure out how many complete rows of tiles will fit along the slope’s length. And the distance at which the crate’s bars need to be fixed is determined by the resultant number.

In contrast to most other roofing materials, clay tiles have strict guidelines that must be followed to the letter. There is a good chance that the skate gap will be either too big or, on the other hand, too small if the bars are shifted even a little. Thus, installing the skating tile correctly may become more difficult or even impossible as a result of this.

Tile fastening on the roof

Install tiles on the roof in little bundles of five or six pieces, per technology. Stacks ought to be dispersed equally from all sides along the slopes. To guarantee that the entire rafter system is loaded equally, this is required. The roof frame may simply deform or even collapse if the tiles are laid out on a single slope or larger heaps. Thus, exercise caution and abide by this rule at all times.

The first (cornice) and last (skate) series of ceramic tiles must then be laid. Tiles on a slope should only be supported by their own weight; there is no need to fix them just yet. The next step is to level the width of the rows so that the last tile is in close proximity to the pedimental overhang. To make this happen, you can:

  1. Use a special pedimon tile. Its width is usually half the width of the standard tile.
  2. Move the tiles in the row, if the locks allow. In most varieties of tiles, the locks are made so that the tile can easily be moved to the side by 1.5-3 cm. The width of the slopes of a private house is almost always enough to ensure a tight fit of the end tile with this small progress.

They mark them vertically after laying the upper and lower rows. The frequency of marking is dependent on the installation experience; experts typically make beats every four to five columns, while novices should mark each column.

The top row of tiles is broken after being beaten, and the roof starts to mount from the bottom up. Furthermore, it is very uncommon; only the tiles on the skate, cornice, pedimental overhangs, and close to adjacency places are fixed, and the standard slope is between 22 and 50 degrees. Furthermore, the attachment is required for the entire set of trimmed tiles, no matter where it is installed.

The installation technology attaches the tiles through a single tile on steep roofs.

The Klyammers, which are unique mounts that are fastened to the crate and clung to the tile’s edge, are highly recommended for fixing the tiles. The tile itself is unharmed in this instance and is still whole. Self-tapping screws can be used to secure the tiles if necessary, but doing so raises the possibility of leaks.

The installation of the tile roof ends with the installation of the skate. To do this, along it, a wooden block is placed on special mounts. Although many beginner masters think that it is needed to support the skating tiles, this is not so. This bar is necessary to ensure ventilation of the subcutaneous space and fasten the aeration element. The skating tile should lie on the private, leaning on it with two shoulders. Yes, it is fixed on a bar, but in no case should it “hang” on it – the fastenings simply cannot withstand and break down over time, which will lead to a deterioration in the roof ventilation or its complete cessation.

Special plugs covering the ends of the skate prevent trash, insects, and birds from entering the ridge knot.

"Tiling roofing technology offers homeowners a fashionable and useful roofing solution by fusing traditional aesthetics with contemporary durability. This article examines the development, advantages, and installation considerations of tiled roofs, ranging from traditional clay tiles to cutting-edge composite materials. Learn how these roofs are a flexible option for sustainable living and architectural beauty because they improve curb appeal, can withstand a variety of climates, and contribute to energy efficiency."

It becomes evident why TPO roofing is a popular option for contemporary buildings as we dig deeper into the world of this technology. It is a unique choice because of its combination of dependability, energy economy, and simplicity of installation. Thermoplastic polyolefin, or TPO, combines the advantages of plastic and rubber. This combination produces a roofing material that is resistant to a wide range of weather, including extreme heat and cold.

The reflective qualities of TPO roofing are one of its main benefits. TPO lowers cooling expenses during the sweltering summer months by reflecting sunlight away from buildings. Building owners enjoy lower utility bills as well as environmental benefits from this energy efficiency. Furthermore, because TPO’s white surface reflects UV rays, it can increase the roof’s lifespan and enhance interior comfort by lowering heat absorption.

Another area where it excels is in the installation of TPO roofing. TPO is lightweight and flexible, which makes installation simpler and faster than with some other traditional roofing materials. This feature may reduce labor expenses and installation-related noise disturbance for building occupants. The TPO sheets are heat-welded to one another to form a seamless barrier that keeps out moisture and leaks.

Finally, for those seeking roofing solutions that strike a balance between affordability, environmental sustainability, and durability, TPO roofing technology is a wise option. It is a leading competitor in the roofing industry because of its capacity to reflect heat, use less energy, and withstand weather conditions. Whether you’re thinking about replacing the roof on a residential or commercial building, TPO provides an attractive choice supported by years of demonstrated performance and technological innovation.

What do you think, which element is the most important for a reliable and durable roof?
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Alexandra Fedorova

Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

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