Adding bitumen tiles to your roof is a sensible and affordable way to improve your home’s resilience and curb appeal. When compared to other roofing materials, bitumen tiles, commonly referred to as asphalt shingles, are favored for their low cost and simplicity of installation. This article includes a visual photo report in addition to a detailed overview of the technologies used in bitumen tile installation.
Bitumen tiles consist of a fiberglass base that has been covered in waterproof asphalt and, for additional defense against weather and UV rays, is topped with ceramic granules. Because of their low weight, they can be used on a variety of roof pitches and designs, from gentle inclinations to steep slopes.
The roof surface must be prepared before installation can begin. It must be dry, clean, and clear of debris. This step is essential because it guarantees an even and smooth application of bitumen tiles, extending their lifespan and improving their ability to protect your house.
The roof deck is then covered with a waterproof underlayment to add another layer of defense against moisture. By acting as a barrier, this underlayment keeps water from penetrating into the roof structure and causing damage over time.
After the underlayment is installed, the bitumen tile installation process starts. Each tile is carefully positioned, beginning at the bottom edge of the roof, and fastened with specialty roofing nails. By overlapping each layer, the staggered pattern improves the roof’s structural integrity in addition to its visual appeal.
The edges, corners, and any protrusions like chimneys or vents on the roof receive extra attention as the installation moves higher. To seal these weak spots and stop water intrusion, flashing is used. It is composed of metal or another weather-resistant material.
It’s critical to keep an eye on safety throughout the installation, making sure that all personnel are outfitted with the proper equipment and adhere to height safety protocols. This safety measure guarantees the longevity and quality of the completed roof in addition to safeguarding the installers.
You can have a professionally installed bitumen tile roof that improves the appearance of your house and offers dependable weather protection for many years by using these methods and procedures.
A little about the construction object
Our house is built with a 6 x 4 m frame, a gable roof, and a cold attic. Raffers made of 145×45 mm boards arranged in a 650 mm step make up the rafter system. 20° is the skate angle. Pedal length: 40 cm. A board measuring 195 by 45 mm in cross section is used to form the horse, and from below, 95 by 45 mm subsurfaces are visible.
I’ll sheathe the overhangs at the beginning of the roofing report and install the drainage system and flexible tiles at the conclusion.
Overhang sheathing
The open rafter design of Finnish homes has always appealed to me. I desired the same realization. The important thing to note is that the horse and the rafters are still visible, and the overhangs are not stitched up at the bottom. The remote controls in this design are filled from above rather than below. Initially, I wanted to use boards with a quarter for this, but I later decided that it would look better to imitate wood on the overhangs. I followed through on this decision.
I sewed on the pediment (going on one rafter above the house box) and along the slopes, imitating a timber with a cross section of 135×20 mm. Overhangs were consequently covered with a level, uniform flooring. Such a flooring replicated the bell with precision from below using wood. Exactly what I had hoped for!
Crate and sheathing the roof of the OSB
Underneath the soft tile, there should be as few joints as possible in an even, continuous flooring. I chose to use OSB for these reasons because it was the best material that soft roof manufacturers suggested.
The whole Skatov area needs to have OSB laid. Therefore, I mounted a crate made of 120×20 mm boards on an unidentified imitation of a beam that supported a portion of the rafters. The crate has a step of 250 mm and an indentation of 312.5 mm from the cornice’s edge. A computation was carried out beneath the 2500×1250 mm OSB sheets.
Consequently, the crate’s imitation and boards (whose width is 20 mm) were level. This is required in order to lay the OSB and install a soft roof later on, which calls for uniform flooring.
I put in a continuous flooring made of OSB that was 15 mm thick and fixed the sheets with fidgety nails that were 70 mm long in accordance with the crate and the imitation of the beam on the overhangs. It is crucial to highlight that every OSB sheet was intended to lay down with its sides resting either on the rafters or on the crate’s bars. In other words, you can’t just let them hang there. Additionally, the coating will end up being extremely flimsy and "walking," making it completely unfit for the installation of the tile (or any other material).
After the OSB sheets were mounted, it became clear that walking on them was scary – too smooth. In order not to take risks, I decided to temporarily become a climber. I bought myself ropes, carbine, bandage. He fixed a couple of instructions into the horse, caught a carbine with insurance on them. With such equipment, moving along the OSB, and then along a flexible tile, was not difficult. However, it was possible, on soft tiles, one could walk without additional tricks. The slope of the slopes is small and the coating is not slippery at all. But you can stumble everywhere and always, so I used insurance before the end of work – just in case.
Bitumen tile roof installation is a meticulous procedure that blends aesthetic appeal and durability. This article offers a thorough analysis of the technology used in the installation of bitumen tiles along with an eye-catching photo report. Every step is described simply and clearly, from prepping the roof surface to precisely placing the tiles. By the end, readers will have a comprehensive understanding of how experts handle this work, enabling them to make wise choices regarding their roofing requirements. This guide will provide you with the information you need to handle the installation process successfully, whether you’re a homeowner thinking about updating your roof or a do-it-yourself enthusiast searching for helpful tips.
The flooring of the lining carpet
The lining carpet must be spread along the OSB prior to installing soft tiles. Its goals are to make sure that the roof is waterproof, that the base is further leveled (smoothing out joints and small irregularities in the OSB), and that the OSB is quickly protected from precipitation during installation.
For certain kinds of soft tiles, isolating the skates, yendovs, skates, end, and cornice portions of the roof is more important than laying a solid lining layer at slope angles greater than 18 °. Yet that is not my situation. The Shinglas "Tango" soft tiles from "Technonikol" (also known as "beaver tail") were bought, and to install them, the entire roof surface must be overlapped with carpet.
I therefore installed the Anderep GL and a continuous waterproofing carpet on top of the OSB flooring. The rolls dispersed parallel to the cornice overhang in a longitudinal direction. 10 cm horizontal overlaps were noted. He neglected to apply bitumen mastic to the overblast areas in order to improve fixation. Roofing nails were used to secure each sheet around the perimeter, with a step of 25 cm.
Following the installation of the metal pediment and cornice strips, fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with 150 mm intervals using roofing nails. Neighboring plank overlap: 50 mm.
Laying flexible tiles
This portion of the work proved to be fairly easy, and Bostitch was assisted by the roofing nerve (pneumopistle). It would take me three to four times as long to mount something with a hammer, and the nail would become clogged quickly.
Starting from the skate-carnious tile, I created the first row along the cornice. This tile is shaped like a continuous strip and is petal-free. Its back is covered with a protective film that shuts off a continuous glue surface. All that’s left to do is attach the strip to the cornice by retreating 2 cm from the cornice bar’s edge and fastening it with 4 roofing nails. in each section.
Installing regular tiles comes next. It turned out that the racers from different packs had somewhat different shades when I compared their colors. Subsequently, I discovered that this issue affects all soft tile, not just shingle. The manufacturer believes that the only way to solve this issue is to randomly arrange five or six packs of different race animals. Then, minor color changes will appear to be the roof’s highlight—a designer choice rather than a drawback.
So, I mixed a tile of 5 packs and set to work. On the central axis of the gunt of the tiles of the Tango, on its reverse side, there is an adhesive strip. She glues the tile to the roof. Of course, such a mount is rather additional. And the main thing is with the help of roofing nails. I scored them along the central axis of each gunt, retreating 2.5 cm from the cutting line line (that is, from the visible part of the tile, which will not overlap the upper row). The placement of nails must be performed not randomly, but according to the scheme. For each type of tile, this scheme is its own. For "tango" there are enough 4 nails for each gont – 2 nails at the edges and 2 between them.
I positioned the first row of tiles two centimeters above the beginning strip’s edges. The rows that follow are arranged half a petal apart. The racetra had to be cut at the pediment, retreating one centimeter from the end bar’s rib. Additionally, mastic is smearing the edges along the skate and the end bar. There was a little rectangle made of damaged tiles that would eventually have roofing installed on it.
As a result, I was able to create the roof’s desired design pattern, which is reminiscent of fish scales.
It was time to get the horse mounted when the slopes were blocked. I put in the roofing aerators that are required for subcutaneous ventilation along the whole length. And a bitumen tile was adhered on top of them. The tiles’ skate-carnious stripes bordered the ridge’s edge, with clippings of common hounds’ petals interspersed.
If you want to protect your home with a long-lasting and attractive roof covering, bitumen tile roofing is a useful and affordable option. There are a few crucial steps in the installation process that guarantee a reliable and durable outcome.
First and foremost, surface preparation is essential. This involves making certain the roof deck is clear of any debris that can compromise the tiles’ adherence and that it is dry and clean. An installation that goes smoothly and effectively starts with proper preparation.
Next, bitumen tile laying calls for accuracy and focus on specifics. Depending on the exact installation method selected, each tile is carefully placed starting from the bottom edge of the roof and fastened with the proper nails or adhesive.
Correct tile overlap is crucial to preventing water infiltration and preserving the integrity of the roof as the installation moves upwards. The overall strength of the roof against wind and weather is also enhanced by this overlapping pattern.
For the roof to remain durable over time and to avoid moisture buildup, adequate ventilation under the tiles must be ensured during the installation process. Sufficient ventilation not only helps to prevent temperature extremes but also extends the life of the roof structure and tiles.
Lastly, paying close attention to finishing details during installation, like ridge caps and edge trim, improves the roof’s aesthetic appeal and adds more defense against weather-related issues like rain and snow.
In conclusion, bitumen roof installation offers homeowners a dependable and affordable roofing solution by fusing aesthetic appeal with practicality. Any home can benefit from years of dependable protection from a bitumen tile roof if installation is done correctly and with attention to detail.
