Roofing device made of metal tiles: step -by -step technology

For a homeowner, building or remodeling a roof is a big project. Metal tiles are a common option for roofing materials and are highly valued for their longevity, strength, and visual appeal. Metal roofing tiles combine functionality and style to provide a contemporary take on more conventional roofing materials like clay or asphalt shingles.

There are several essential steps involved in installing a metal tile roof. First things first, preparation is key. This entails determining whether the current roof structure can sustain the weight of the added material and performing any required repairs. Thorough preparation guarantees the roof’s longevity and lays the groundwork for a successful installation.

The installation then starts with the underlayment being laid down. This improves the overall resilience of the roof and acts as a moisture barrier. Installing battens or purlins, which provide a framework for fastening the metal tiles, usually comes after the underlayment. These elements support appropriate water drainage and offer a sturdy foundation.

Following the installation of the framework, the metal tiles are put in place methodically. Because each tile interlocks with the others, a sturdy barrier against the weather is created. The roof’s resilience to wind uplift and water intrusion is improved by its interlocking design, which is essential for preserving the structure’s weatherproofness.

To finish the installation, final details like flashings and ridge caps are added. The roof’s peaks are covered by ridge caps, which improve weather resistance and provide a seamless appearance. To stop water intrusion at weak spots, flashings are put in place around features like vents and chimneys.

Step 1: Preparation Ensure the roof deck is clean and free of debris.
Step 2: Underlayment Install a waterproof underlayment to protect against moisture.
Step 3: Starter Strip Begin with a starter strip at the eaves to secure the first row of metal tiles.
Step 4: Installing Tiles Place the metal tiles, starting from the bottom edge and overlapping each row.
Step 5: Ridge Installation Finish by installing ridge caps along the roof peak for a secure finish.

Types of roofing metal

There are many different kinds of rafter systems, which we do not take into consideration. Not all of them, incidentally, are thought to be the greatest choice for metal tiles. The primary focus of the article is on roof types, and there are only two possible types.

It is important for developers to keep in mind that deviating from current technologies does not only result in a significant reduction in heat-saving efficiency—this is not the main issue. The risk is that a shoddy warm roof will quickly cause the rafter system’s supporting components to fail.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tile

General advice on metal installation technology

For illustration, we’ll look at the most widely used method of installing metal tiles: removing the insulating layer. Which mistakes are most frequently committed, and what technological advice needs to be followed?

Vapor barrier of metal tiles

It is highly recommended by dishonest or ignorant roofers that developers apply a vapor barrier to the cold roof. Justifications: as a result, there is less steam intrusion on metal sheets, and their operational lifespan is significantly extended. As a matter of fact, the vapor barrier considerably deteriorates the operational parameters. Why?

  1. It is even theoretically impossible to make vapor barrier completely sealed, wet air in any case will enter the metal tile through the lack of joints, due to linear temperature fluctuations in the rafter system, due to the fact that the vapor-protective membranes in small quantities pass moisture, etc. D. This means that the presence of pair -defense membranes does not exclude the formation of condensate on sheets with all the negative consequences.
  2. If a membrane is installed, then the effectiveness of natural ventilation of the under -wrapping space is significantly deteriorated. Incorrectly improves the situation and the counter -needle with special poor. The sheets dry out best only when their plane is completely open, the removal of condensate occurs not only during the movement of the air masses, but also in a calm state due to the pressure difference of the air saturated.
  3. Visual revision of the condition of wooden structures of the rafter system is very difficult. The roof can have leaks for a long time, which is difficult to notice from the attic due to the installed membrane. Constantly wet tree is rapidly affected by rot, loses its initial supporting properties, the rafter system requires complex repair work. Various impregnations help little.
  4. Increase in the estimate of the roof. The membrane costs a lot of money, and especially the most modern so -called diffusion. Work on its styling also has to pay as a result – a noticeable increase in the estimated cost of the roof.

Using this example, we attempted to illustrate why it’s important to comprehend not only the technology involved in an operation but also its purpose; there should always be a logical and scientific basis for any given action.

Prices for vapor barrier

Material for vapor barrier

Lower launch knot of the crate

There are two common mistakes that novice builders make when arranging this element.

First, the gutter fixing bracket is fastened straight to the crate’s first board. This is not possible because the metal strip will press up against the tile’s leaf and distort it. At best, this is a subtle rental; at worst, with time in this location and the inevitable fluctuations of the roof, it will be sigent. It is unnecessary to discuss the repercussions. The bracket needs to have a specific recess cut beneath it, with its upper plane not projecting above the board surface.

Crate’s lower launch knot

The second. The thickness of the compensating rail under the cornice bar and the lower edge of the first sheet of the roof is not regulated. The standard thickness of the lumber for the crate and the counterparts of 20–25 mm, the same dimensions and the bar under the compensating rail. As a result, it lifts the lower edge of the sheet and bends the entire profile. No need to be lazy, it is strongly recommended to reduce the thickness of the rail and fit it in height to the sheet profile parameters. In most cases, the thickness of the rail should be 15 mm, specific values ​​depend on the type of metal tile and should be indicated in the installation instructions from the manufacturer. If the dimensions are adjusted correctly, then the sheet of the metal tile will be tightly pressed in the profile, no sagging.

How to align the first sheets of metal tiles

The importance of accurately exposing the first rows of the roof increases with building length. Errors on one side of the slope can shift from several millimeters to a few centimeters on the other, and since these errors are easily seen from the ground, the marriage cannot be fully concealed.

A millimeter accuracy is required for the alignment of the first rows of metal tiles.

But this is not all the problems. The fact is that it is necessary to fix the metal tile only at the above points under the upper part of the profile. The crate is made for the most part from the racks of about 3 cm wide, due to this, a decrease in the consumption of expensive lumber is achieved. The displacement of sheets by two centimeters becomes critical – self -tapping screws do not hold the coating with estimated reliability. In the most difficult cases, you will have to completely dismantle all the established sheets and start work again, taking into account the mistakes made, or to patch the additional rails of the crate, taking into account the displacement of the fixation places. Both options are very undesirable and always have negative consequences.

Only the aforementioned locations beneath the upper portion of the profile require the metal tile to be fixed.

In particular, how should the first rows be installed on a long slope? This is carried out in phases.

  1. Install two sheets of the first row on the rafter system and one sheet of the second. Pay attention so that they are connected in the provided places. Sheets on the slope should resemble the Latin letter "l".
  2. In one place, tighten the self -tapping screw, do not tighten it strongly, the sealing gum should only slightly touch the surface of the metal profile, but do not compress. Self -cutting is fixed on the middle sheet approximately in the center. Due to this, you can carefully shift all three sheets at the same time, they do not jump out of the factory locks, turn to the right/left a few centimeters. Such displacements are enough to accurately set the metal roof in relation to the cornice.
  3. If you have previously stretched a rope for alignment – excellent, the installation process of the first sheets is somewhat simplified. During the stretching of the rope, it is necessary to accurately measure the width of the slopes, highlights on the extreme planes cannot exceed ± 2 mm. If there is no rope, then alignment will have to be done by eye. It is recommended to finally fix the position of the first sheets, lay a few more in length. This will increase the accuracy of adjustment and completely eliminate the likelihood of a very unpleasant error.

Video – practical tips on the installation technology of metal tiles

Tips for screwing self -tapping screws

It is not always feasible to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and select the self-tapping screw fixing scheme that the developers have suggested.

Metal tile scheme

Expert roofers advise against ever lowering their total amount per square meter of roof, even if they feel the need or desire to make their own modifications. You can screw them into at least each wave to increase the number of fastening locations.

This is precisely how the markings should be applied to the roof’s sides and cornice; after that, the maximum distance between them should be marked through the wave in a checkerboard pattern. It is unlikely to be outright banned, so don’t try it. However, strong wind gusts could cause subversions that could even result in the roof’s complete demolition.

Sensible guidance. At the point of combination of the joint, which is situated on the upper crest of the wave, it is advised to screw screws into two sheets at the same time. There is only one situation in which this is possible: an error occurred when placing the metal tile sheets, causing the locks to be on the leeward side of the roof. Using self-tapping screws to secure the intersection will lessen noise during intense wind gusts and lower the possibility of snow being blown into tiny, dry crevices.

It should only be used in slits and soft shoes, as the crests can flex under a person’s weight. To avoid the appearance of large gaps in the places where the four corners of the combustion occur, arrange the sheets according to the manufacturer’s recommended layout. How can one go about getting such a result? It’s all very easy to understand. Special radiuses are provided for the bends in the edges even during the equipment design stage, which helps to offset a minor increase in thickness.

The method by which metal tile sheets are laid

Because of this technology, it is better to lay the sheets from right to left as docking is made easier. If this isn’t done, however, then the joints of the next sheet will need to be wedged beneath the preceding sheet’s waves. This makes it more likely that the anti-corrosion coating will be harmed and makes screw installation more difficult.


Our piece for the website "All about the Roof" explores the intricate technology underlying metal tile roofing systems. Metal roofing tiles provide a strong and aesthetically pleasing option for roofing requirements. This tutorial will simplify the installation procedure into manageable steps that both professionals and homeowners can easily comprehend. Readers will learn how metal tiles create the ultimate fusion of strength and style for the roof, from preparation and materials to installation methods and finishing touches."

Homes can be weatherproofed with a contemporary and long-lasting solution from metal tile roofing. Its popularity is a result of both its useful benefits and visual appeal. To guarantee a stable and long-lasting roof, there are several important steps in the installation process.

First things first, preparation is key. This entails taking precise measurements of the roof and evaluating the current structure. It is best to make any necessary corrections or repairs before starting the installation. An easy installation process is based on careful preparation.

The underlayment is then put in place. Usually composed of felt or synthetic material, this layer serves as an extra barrier against moisture and enhances the insulation of the roof. It improves the overall efficacy of the roof by acting as an essential supplement to the metal tiles themselves.

The metal tiles can be installed after the underlayment is put in place. To stop water infiltration, each tile must be carefully placed and secured in this step, making sure they overlap correctly. To achieve a uniform appearance and preserve the integrity of the roof, proper alignment and fastening techniques are crucial.

To complete the installation, ridge caps and edge trim are the last touches to be added. These elements improve the aesthetics of the roof while also offering more wind and rain protection. Paying close attention to details in these last stages guarantees that the roof will look fantastic and function dependably for the duration of its life.

What do you think, which element is the most important for a reliable and durable roof?
Share to friends
Alexandra Fedorova

Journalist, author of articles on construction and repair. I will help you understand the complex issues related to the choice and installation of the roof.

Rate author
Add a comment