Installation of ridge run

The ridge run is a critical component of roofing that is important for both functionality and aesthetics. This portion of the roof fulfills a crucial structural function in addition to improving the overall appearance of a home. The highest point of the roof is formed at the ridge run, which is the point where two sloping sides of the roof meet.

The ridge run installation requires meticulous preparation and exact execution. Depending on the roof’s ventilation requirements, it usually consists of a ridge cap or ridge vent that has been specially designed. Making sure the underlying roof structure is sturdy and oriented correctly is the first step in the process. This guarantees a weatherproof seal and a snug fit for the ridge run.

Making the transition from one side of the roof to the other seamless is one of the main objectives during installation. This entails precisely positioning and fastening the ridge run along the ridge line. Appropriate fastening methods, like roofing screws or nails, are used to guarantee stability and resilience against environmental factors like wind and rain.

In addition to its structural function, the ridge run is important for ventilation. Ridge vents are placed along the ridge run in many contemporary roofing systems to let hot air and moisture escape from the attic space. This lessens the chance of moisture accumulation, which can result in mold growth and structural damage, and helps control indoor temperature.

Preparation for installation

You must get the necessary fasteners, tools, and lumber ready before you install the skate. The fasteners are chosen based on the fastening method; using tools makes everything easy; you’ll need at least a basic set:

• knife -cutting wheel, electric saw or electric lobesis;
• construction level, ruler, pencil;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• locksmith;
• roulette;
• construction knife;
• a brush or a sprayer (depends on the selected composition for wood processing);
• Sensor thread;
• Durable cable.

A block system or a carcade might also be required to raise a heavy skate run to the roof and ridge.

However, the skate run itself is not as clear-cut. What kind of material is required for it? Which section is it supposed to be in? Below is our response.

Requirements for lumber

Since the skate run is a crucial component of the rafter system, there are strict requirements that must be met. These can be found in regulatory documents, primarily in GOST 20850-2014 "DETTERS DECHENT MLOWN" and SP 64.13330.2017 "Wooden Structures." By these guidelines, skate lumber ought to be:

1. Dried to a moisture content of 12% or less. Optimal – 8%. More humid wood can be distorted, it can crack and dry out. In particular, the screw warning is dangerous – a drying defect, during which a board or a beam is twisted around the central axis. Literacks deformed in this way will not be able to withstand the load of at least several tons per linear meter of length, which can easily “crush” on the roof in the winter.
2. High variety. You can make skate ran only from selected or first grade wood. This means that only “light” vices are permissible, which have little effect or do not affect the strength of wood. For example, lumber can be with prophecy, core, fused bitch (up to a third of depth or width). All other defects, including reviews, fungal lesions, sprouting knots and wormholes – 100% reason for the culling.

Additionally, ridge run woods should be treated with a fire retardant; it is preferable to deeply impregnate the woods by immersing them in a special salt mortar bath. Insecticidal, fungicidal, and antibacterial treatments are also required to shield it from decay, insects, mold, and mushrooms that eat away at wood.

The skate run should ideally be constructed from a solid board or piece of wood. In the event that this isn’t feasible, the component lengths need to be chosen to guarantee the fewest number of connections feasible.

Calculation of ridge run

If the beams used for Mauerlat are typically 150 × 150 mm or 200 × 200 mm in cross section, then the skate run needs to be calculated just like the rafters. Furthermore, the 200 × 200 mm beam’s weight isn’t the main point—it can be installed without a lifting crane. and not when purchasing a bar. Everything is far more intricate; in order to provide an acceptable bend, the load on the roof may be so high that the skate gesture must be 200 mm in height.

If the computations reveal this, they just use two boards—one installed on top of the other—instead of a beam. Such a solution gives the skate run enough strength margin because the height is far stronger than the width, which influences the beam’s ability to withstand the load on the bend. Should you choose to build a ridge run from a standard 200 × 200 mm beam in this scenario, the rafter system will be inadequately strong and incur significant costs, among other consequences.

We hope that everything is clear considering the need for calculations. Here’s the foundation for performing them.

The skate run is calculated for both deflection and destruction, just like any other beam. The methods of calculation, equations, and tabular data for individual variables are provided in the SP 20.13330.2016 "Loads and Influences" and SP 64.13330.2017 "Wooden Structures" standards. These are the principal documents, though there are others.

Determine the total weight on the roof first. It is made up of two types of loads: constant (the weight of the roof itself) and variable (snow, wind, labor). This serves as the foundation for figuring out the skating run and the complete rafter structure.

Next, the bending calculation is performed. It is appropriate to apply inequality to him:

• M – a calculated bending moment (in the case of a skating run – a maximum bending moment), kg · cm;
• W_calc – The calculated moment of the resistance of the lumber of the bend in the cross section, cm 3;
• R_And – calculated resistance to the bend, the tabular value of the same standards, MPa.

Wcalc, in turn, connected to the beam section with the subsequent ratio:

Where h is his height and B is the run’s width. Centimeters are used to measure both values.

It gets trickier when there is a bending moment, though. Its computation is a sopromat task, and thus it cannot be regarded as a simple subject. For a particular beam support scheme and support type, the bending moment formula is shown.

For instance, the bending moment M formula for a straightforward gable roof, where the skate run is solely supported by pediments and lacks intermediate racks, looks like this:

• L – This is the distance between the supports, m. That is, the length of the entire skate run, namely the distance between the points of the support.
• Q – load on the run, n/m.

The weight of the run Q Here, the roof is gathered from half of the roof’s horizontal projection:

• Q – this is the amount of constant and temporary loads on the roof (not 1 m 2, but for the entire area of ​​the roof), n/m 2;
• B – The width of the entire roof from the slope to the slope, m.

In this instance, the following process will be used to determine the skating run:

• We calculate the load Q on the ridge run;
• We calculate the bending moment M;
• We consider the calculated moment of resistance to the bend W_calc Based on the already known to us M And R_And(the tabular value for pine can be equal to 13 to 24 MPa, depending on the variety of wood and the cross -section of lumber);
• Choose the width of the skate run B and calculate the necessary height in this case by the formula h = √ (6w/b);
• The resulting height h We round the larger direction in accordance with the available number of lumber.

To put it simply, the ridge run’s cross-section is chosen so that the beam can support the weight. Additionally, choosing a bar or boards with the best section is a laborious task. Typically, the computation begins with a 50 mm width and a sight on a 150 × 50 mm, 180 × 50 mm, or 200 × 50 mm board. Should the necessary height prove to be excessively large, the width is widened and tallied once more. In order to prevent issues with material purchases, they also concentrate on standard sections, preferably the most common ones.

Should the computations reveal that not even a 200 × 200 mm bass is robust enough to support the weight, they revert to a narrow width, but they have already given thought to the possibility of stacking two boards on top of one another.

Once the ridge run’s cross-section has been selected, it needs to be examined to make sure the standards for allowable deflection have been met. It shouldn’t be more than 1/200 of the beam L’s length. In other words, the skate run shouldn’t bend more than 3 cm if there are 6 meters between the supports.

Deflecting f computed using the following formula:

• E – module of the elasticity of wood, tabular, MPa;
• J – moment of inertia of the beam, cm 4 .

Inertia moment J, It is then determined using the following formula:

Congratulations! You’ve located a suitable cross-section of the ridge groom and can now purchase materials if, after computations, F≤ fNor. The cross section will need to be increased until the right result is obtained if equality is not observed.

In general, even for a basic gable roof with a basic shedding scheme, calculating the ridge run is a challenging task. It even becomes nearly impossible for an unprepared person to work on the roofs of complex forms—you have to figure out the formula for the load, the bending moment, and even the deflection. Thus, we advise you to get in touch with the design engineers or, at the very least, utilize specialized software that generates loading schemes based on the parameters you provided. In these situations, manual computation is prone to critical errors that compromise the roof’s strength.

"In roofing, ridge run installation is essential to maintaining a roof’s structural soundness and visual appeal. The ridge run, which is the highest point where two opposing roof slopes converge, is essential for ventilation and weatherproofing in addition to improving the overall appearance of the roofline. It is critical that both homeowners and contractors comprehend the significance of and procedures for properly installing a ridge run since improper installation methods compromise durability and weather resistance."

How to install ridge run

Ridge run can be installed in three different ways, unlike Mauerlat, which always fits on the walls. Their differences lie in the way the load is distributed and the kind of support provided.

The first method: with supports to pediments

The skate run is frequently based on just two pediments in tiny homes and outbuildings. The middle portion of the beam merely hangs in midair at the same moment.

The simplicity of this ridge run installation technique draws attention. Furthermore, this holds true for computations as well as installation. Furthermore, because the pediment support system does not "steal" space or obstruct creative vision, it maximizes the attic’s usable area and allows for flexibility in space planning.

But not everyone can benefit from these advantages.

First, there is a significant bending moment exposed to the ridge run, which completely blocks the opening in the absence of intermediate supports. You must use a sizable portion for the deflection in order for it to stay inside the parameters of the norm.

Second, in this instance, the skate run’s longest possible length is nine meters. Usually 6-7 meters. This is a direct result of the preceding feature: it is challenging to locate a reasonably good bar with an outstanding section that is longer.

Thirdly, even a very long skate run may not be able to support the weight of the snow cap in areas with heavy snowfall. However, there is a workaround in this instance: the beam can be installed with wide gaps outside the pediment and on top of them to cover a single row of rafter legs. Apart from its aesthetic value, this approach helps to mitigate the bending moment by applying pressure to the run at the remote site. This, in line with the principle of children’s swings (the pedestal serves as a point of support), elevates the central part of the run slightly.

Fourthly, it is necessary to carry the pediments. You are unable to support ridge run with front-ton masonry in a home with internal load-bearing walls.

From theory to practice now. The following provides step-by-step instructions for creating a ridge run using two pediments:

1. 5-6 rows before the installation point of ridge run, masonry on the pediment begins to level relative to each other. To do this, use the laser level.
2. The last 3-4 rows (if under the run a window, then 6 rows) reinforce. Exception – masonry made of high -quality full brick. On the walls of particularly fragile materials (gas block, slag block, shellout) 2-3 rows before the run fastening point, a reinforced concrete jumper is installed, which will help to evenly distribute the load.
3. In the last row, they make an opening, as this is the best way to fix the ridge run. In the masonry made of brick, they simply leave the intervals, in porous materials a groove is cut under the cross section of the beam.
4. The ends of the ridge run are cut under 60 °. This provides the best moisture exchange for the beam and reduces the likelihood of cracking and warping.
5. The edges and ends of the beam are additionally treated with an antiseptic.
6. The place with which the ridge run will rest against the masonry are wound into two layers of roofing material or other roll waterproofing – otherwise, condensation will fall on the border of heterogeneous materials, which will lead to decay of the tree over time.
7. The skate run is installed on the pediments using a block system or tap. If installation without removal, in a wall niche, then it is necessary to ensure that the end does not contact the wall, as well as that the gaps are left for ventilation.
8. If the run is placed in a niche, then after its installation, the masonry is completed in several other rows.

According to certain sources, scraping the skating gaps with a wire that has already been buried in the masonry will increase reliability. However, this only makes sense in the event that the beam’s ends are submerged in a niche. In the event that they extend past the pediment, further fixation does not require the skate.

Second method: with supporting racks

Ridge run installation on supporting racks is the most popular choice. This installation method gives you much more flexibility in the calculations and lets you block openings of any size; if the calculated beam cross-section isn’t to your liking, simply move the racks a little closer together.

However, installing racks at one level is challenging, and this is crucial because it drastically alters all the calculations and weakens the roof as a whole if the ridge run does not lie flat on one of the supports.

The racks should also be dependent on something. This "something" ought to be a column or wall that supports weight. Consequently, there is less flexibility in how the attic and lower floors can be laid out when installing ridge run using this method. In theory, racks can be installed directly on reinforced concrete overlaps. Such an installation is not always feasible and necessitates extensive preliminary calculations.

Place the racks beneath the ridge run on an armo that has been poured, flooded, or laid over a wooden beam or multiple boards gathered together on top of the inner carrier wall. If the lying is predicated on columns rather than a continuous wall, then it must also account for destruction and deflection, much like in a skate run. In this instance, it is more practical to install them if the lyjnia width is taken to be equal to or greater than the cross-section of the racks.

The racks rely on compression in order to function. This size is regarded as minimal for racks because they only need to be counted if the cross section is less than 100 × 100 mm.

Installing a head or filling the armored carrier is the first step in installing ridge run with fastening on the racks. This is the easiest way to set the ridge run, so it is crucial to bring the support to the perfect horizontal at this point. A laser or water level can be used to create such a horizontal.

Subsequently, one of the racks is trimmed to the required length, ensuring that the ends in both directions are precisely 90 degrees. Usually, the first rack is tried immediately next to the pediment. When properly cut, it serves as a template for the remaining trimming. However, it’s crucial to follow the template precisely and avoid measuring the length at each rack because even a millimeter’s error in measurement can cause a space to open up between the skate and the support.

They start installing the racks after they have all been cut out. Usually, reinforced corners, perforated plates, or studs are used to secure the racks to the lieutenant. Nails or roofing brackets are another way to improve the node when using any type of perforated fastener.

Racks are positioned at the calculated distance on one axis. The first rack is positioned between one and one and a half meters away from the pediment if it is not carrying. When installing the first wooden support, they follow the planned installation step if the skate run is based on both the pediment and the racks.

After the installation of all the racks, they proceed to the installation of the skate gear itself. If everything is done correctly, then the difficulties usually do not arise – the beam is simply laid on the racks and fixed. For fastening, use perforated plates or reinforced corners and nails. Sometimes the skate run can “plant” on a special mount, which on the one hand is a long pointed rod, and on the other ends with a wide P-shaped bed. The rod is immersed in the rack in the center, and the beam is laid on the bed. It turns out reliable, but complicated in execution and quite expensive fastening. Hence the rarity of its use.

Gaps between the run and some racks may appear if there are errors in the rack installation process or if the skate beam is uneven. Of course, you can’t leave them unless you’re talking about very thin "hair." These gaps are typically limited to the lumen and are so thin that a knife blade cannot fit through them. The skate run just bends slightly and "falls" onto the support when it is loaded. However, more gaps need to be filled already. Usually, they employ two techniques:

1. Denote problem racks in any way – those that are higher than necessary. Then remove the ridge run and with the help of an angular grinder with an abrasive disk, the supports are shut up to the desired size. This method is effective, but very laborious – one removal.
2. Thin squares are cut out of plywood, the dimensions of which correspond to the cross -section of the racks. After that, they are placed in a gap one at a time until the skate bend “sits” on the support tightly. Then the run is fixed, necessarily from all four sides (plates and corners). In addition to fixing the beam, fasteners will also not let the lining fall out of the gap.

There is a third approach as well, but it is very uncommon because most people cannot use it. However, because it is so basic, we will still discuss it. If the flight’s ridge timber is the source of the issue, we are discussing further processing for it. You can attain an ideal section with the aid of a flight, but you require access to such a device. It’s available for rent or purchase, and there are even affordable models that are perfect for home use and will help with construction.

Third method: console installation

An extremely uncommon method of installing a ridge run that is only employed when a large span installation is required. In this instance, a complete farm with all the braces and connections that depend on another beam must be built in place of the ridge beam on the racks. The arched building is an additional option.

It is clear that the console method of mounting skate runs is very intricate in terms of computations and execution. As a result, we advise against utilizing these structures with a separate roof device.

When installing a run to supports, separate console elements such as extra subcards of a beam or racks, braces, can be utilized. Redistributing the load from the ridge run to the racks and the building’s supporting structures is imperative in order to lessen deflection.

How to build skating

One of the most crucial aspects of installing the ridge run is coordinating its individual components. Since the location of this joint is where the structure weakens, you must absolutely follow these guidelines when extending the beam:

1. The skate is always increased in the center of the support. "Hanging" joint is not allowed.
2. The run is connected only in two ways: the junction in the joint or with a slant. With a braid braid, the knot is stronger and more reliable, but it is more difficult to perform. Therefore, this connection method is usually used on highly loaded roofs.
3. When increasing, it is recommended to use wooden pads of boards fixed on the knot with nails. Unlike perforated plates, wooden pads “breathe” along with the entire structure, which reduces the likelihood of a backlash in fasteners.

Installing rafter legs over the junction where the two sections of the ridge run join is not advised.

Preparation of roof surface	Ensure the roof surface is clean and free of debris before starting installation.
Positioning ridge run	Place the ridge run along the peak of the roof, ensuring it aligns with the roof slope.

A ridge vent’s installation is an essential step in maintaining the longevity of your roof and the comfort of your house. This tiny but essential part is essential to the attic’s ventilation system because it lets hot air escape in the summer and keeps moisture from accumulating in the winter.

It’s critical to select the proper ridge vent type and size for your roof’s requirements when installing one. Cutting a slot along the roof’s peak, fitting the vent firmly, and caulking it to stop leaks are all part of a proper installation. Through the promotion of airflow and reduction of energy costs, this process not only improves the aesthetic appeal of the roof but also improves its functionality.

Purchasing a ridge vent that has been professionally installed can extend the life and overall efficiency of your roof. Making sure there is enough ventilation helps stop problems like ice dams, mold growth, and premature deterioration of roofing materials. It’s a reasonably priced upgrade that will pay for itself over time in terms of decreased maintenance and increased indoor comfort.

Video on the topic

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Skate run ending.

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