Do -it -yourself metal roofs: overview of the correct roofing pie + thinness

Consider doing the metal roof installation yourself. It’s a difficult but worthwhile project that can help you save money and feel like you accomplished something. Because they are strong, economical, and fashionable, metal roofs are a popular option for homeowners wishing to update their properties. Nonetheless, in order to guarantee that your roof is not only aesthetically beautiful but also strong and resistant to the elements, it’s essential to comprehend the proper roofing procedure and materials.

Let’s start by dissecting the layers of a standard metal roofing system. The roof deck, underlayment, metal panels, flashing, and trim make up the "pie" that is the roofing system. Every layer is essential to shielding your house from the weather. The underlayment serves as a moisture barrier, and the roof deck offers structural support. The visible outer layer is made up of metal panels, which come in a variety of designs and hues to complement the aesthetic of your house.

Thickness, or gauge, is an important consideration for DIY metal roofing. Generally speaking, the gauge range for metal roof panels is 22 to 29, where smaller gauge values correspond to thicker metal. In general, thicker panels are more resilient and able to endure severe weather conditions than thinner ones. Thickner metal could, however, also be heavier and more difficult to install. Selecting the appropriate gauge for your project requires an understanding of how to strike a balance between ease of installation and durability.

Preparation for the installation of metal tiles

The presently well-liked coatings’ wavy metal sheets have dual defense against airborne threats. The hot zinc containers are used to submerge steel profiled blanks in order to create an anti-corrosion layer on their surface. The material’s exterior is then coated with a colorful polymer shell that serves both protective and aesthetic purposes.

However, if the roofing pie is set up incorrectly, then both degrees of defense won’t be able to withstand the attacks of rain and household fumes. Condensate will build up in the area beneath the coating and will eventually, albeit slowly, reach the metal. Moisture will cause the insulation to lose its insulating properties. Woody materials will absorb moisture and rot as a result.

Additionally, relying solely on the impressive and lightweight material sheets is not worth it. A sturdy enough rafter system and crate are required to ensure that every component is fixed at the necessary number of points. As a result, proper preparation is needed for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e., familiarizing oneself with the subtleties of the roof pie, crate, and rafter structure structure.

Rafter system and crate

Insulated and cold roofs are constructed with metal tiles. Steel or aluminum components can be used to erect the cold type rafter system. However, wood remains the preferred material due to its ease of coating sheet attachment. More robust rafter farms are needed for insulated buildings because thermal insulation will be placed in between the legs. Since it is improper to use metal in these circumstances, warm roofs are constructed using wooden rafters supported by crates.

Be aware that pitched roofs with a minimum steep slope of 14º may accommodate the device of a metal tile roof. The ideal range for roof steepness is from 15 to 20 degrees.

There are specific guidelines to follow when building a rafter system for a warm roof with metal tiles. They are as follows:

• The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing rafter system is more than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. Recommended board height 100 or 150mm, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• The insulation laid in the spacer between the rafter legs should not contact traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the structure of the rafter structure, then an additional counter -rated 2 × 50 or 50 × 50 is packed on the rafters along their direction. She will create a gap of 3-5cm.

To guarantee airflow for wooden components, drill holes in the side rafter legs that are between Ø 2 and 2.5 cm. Hole formation is not required, but it is consistently advised by metal tile manufacturers. They should arrange them in two or three rows with a 30-cm step closer to the skate if there are worries about the structure deteriorating.

The rafter system’s geometric parameters should be verified prior to building the crate works that serve as the foundation for the fastening sheets. The lengths of the diagonals on rectangular slopes should be measured and confirmed. On the attic roofs of each slope segment individually along the length of the diagonals. Controlling the overhang’s and the skate’s horizontality as well as the placement of the rafter legs’ outer surfaces in a single plane are essential. Early geometry deviation detection will prevent more mistakes.

After confirming that the rafter farms are perfectly geometric, you can move on to the crate’s construction, where there are specific guidelines that follow by analogy:

• The first reshetin – the lowest rail on the overflow should be higher than subsequent ordinary slats. For its construction, you need to take a bar thicker than for ordinary reshetin. For example, for the lower rail 50 × 50, and for all subsequent 30 × 50.
• The initial rack of the crate should be clearly parallel to the cornice line.
• The step between the first and second Reshetin 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails 30, 35 or 40cm. The step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
• In the process of the device, the crate is taken through through passages through the roof and mounting devices for pipes are installed.
• In the flaws, around the attic windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate is arranged from the board.
• In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice bar. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, every wooden part of the crate needs to be treated with an antiseptic and a fire composition before it is installed.

In addition to serving as the foundation for fastening sheets, the crate also serves another crucial purpose. It creates a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and coating and creates ventilation ducts for air to move from the overhang to the ridge.

In order for air to enter and exit metal sheets without hindrance, the ventilation ducts need to remain free. They just hide behind a perforated ribbon that keeps trash and dust out of the roof pie from the side of the ridge and the overhangs.

Structural boards of roofs

If it is intended to install vinyl siding over the overhang or outfit the roof with well-organized gutters, cades are used to fortify the slope and give it a rough appearance. In circumstances where the binder uses a corny board, a board strengthening is not necessary.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves, pre -selected in rafters. The sizes of the grooves must correspond to the size of the board so that the overhang plane remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If the installation of long hooks used to fix the gutter is planned to be installed, grooves are cut in the cornice board to fasten them. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the frontal board. They are used when the installation of the drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The step of installing all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

If there is no structured drainage system on the roof, a frontal board is utilized. Galvanized nails are used to fasten it to the ends of the rafters. acts as a component for fastening different roofing components and add-ons, such as licking overhang. The end bar, which closes the waterproofing placed on top of the board, is supported by the end board. Apart from its aesthetic purpose, the bar fastened to the end board stops the roof from rattling.

Time to bear the overhang

Manufacturers of coatings frequently recommend licking overhangs made specifically for these uses by valves, like Vilpe or KTV. It is advised to install siding, profile, or vinyl siding for hemding cornices. Dobed come with the instructions and a complete set of connecting parts. You can bake a board with a gap for roof ventilation at a reasonable cost.

The specifics of the roofing pie

Whether or not the structure will be insulated determines the structure and composition of the metal tile roof pie. The only component utilized in the most basic undefined circuit is a waterproofing film. If there will be bending in the attic, a vapor barrier barrier will be used.

Three common layers make up the insulated roofing pie, which are as follows:

• Vapor barrier. Located on the part of the future receipt of household fumes, t.e. From the inside of the rafter system. Her work consists in protecting the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to overhangs with an overlap at 10-15cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and in a single canvas are connected by adhesive tape. Between the internal cladding of the attic and vapor barrier, you should create a gap by installing the crate.
• Thermal insulation. Mini-navigate plates are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined according to the instructions of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed by the disputes between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation of the slab are cut 1.5-2 cm wide than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. She needs it as a barrier from atmospheric precipitation. They lay it from the outside of the rafter system before the construction of the crate, try to arrange immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid as vapor barrier, with stripes with similar overlap and mounting methods.

The waterproofing layer is applied so that at least 20 centimeters of its canvas overlaps the surrounding wall lines. Laying is done in the yndovs, or boat zones of the slopes, with overlaps of 20 to 30 cm. There needs to be a space between the waterproofing and the skate to allow air to flow freely.

One important requirement is that bitumen water-repellent materials cannot be used to waterproof a roof cake when installing a metal tile roof. To transfer the steam and condensate that have built up in the insulation, waterproofing is necessary.

The material utilized determines how the water-repellent layer device is made:

• The classic version of waterproofing is a reinforced or non -reinforced plastic film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by a rafter system and is located between the insulation and film, the second is formed by a crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
• The superdiffusion membrane can work perfectly with one ventilation gap 3-5 cm wide. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using polymer material in the breakdown of contact between waterproofing and insulation, there is no sense. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture outward, preventing from entering.
• Anticandenate materials with a fibrous surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washing air, which should be provided by the path. Therefore, this option also needs double -circuit ventilation, like a classic. It is used mainly when arranging cold roofs.

With the exception of polymer waterproofing, all insulating materials are laid with sagging. Thus, it is imperative that the film not shatter during tearing. Only the membrane, which has the capacity to stretch, does not require sagging with sagging.

Waterproofing around the roof’s through passages begins five to seven centimeters down the walls of the communication pipes. It is ideal to install an extra waterproofing layer around pipes and other vulnerable areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying coating

Prior to installing metal tiles, these must be done:

• Cornice strips, eliminating penetration into the subcutaneous space of dust and garbage. Mount them on top of the ventilation ribbon and legs of drainage hooks attached to the ends. The strips are attached to the frontal and cornice board with self -tapping screws with a step 30cm. So that the rattles of the wind does not occur, these metal parts are installed with an interference.
• Cornice droppers that are located under a waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
• Lower Endova, enhancing the protection of the concave corners of the roof. Is a metal corner that repeats the shape. Mounted on top of a continuous plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice of the board. In almost flat mosses, the plank flooring is equipped with an additional waterproofing strip. Lower Endova is screwed with self -tapping screws every 30cm. Porous seal is covered on top of the lower yendova.
• Protective circuit around chimney pipe crossing the roof. It is performed using metal straps of the contour, the upper edge of which is attached to the stroke formed in the walls of the pipe and treated with sealant. Stroke in the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply to the arrangement of adjacency to the walls.
• Lightning rifle required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

There are three major components to the lightning system. A lightning receiver is a steel or aluminum bar that ranges in length from 20 cm to 1.5 m and has a diameter of 12 mm. A single-core steel or aluminum wire that has been welded to the lightning reception serves as the second part of the current wrap. They lay current-lane, which leads to grounding, along the crate and on the walls. The third component of the system, grounding, consists of burying an iron beam 1.5 meters long or a steel sheet 1 meter by 1 meter, for example, at a depth of 1.5 meters.

Are you going to put in a metal roof on your own? This post offers a thorough how-to guide that covers all necessary steps and considerations for installing a DIY metal roof. We deconstruct the procedure into concise, doable steps, covering everything from prepping the roof surface to selecting the appropriate metal sheet thickness. Knowing these important factors guarantees a long-lasting and effective roofing solution, whether you’re taking on a new project or thinking about replacing your old one. Discover useful advice and insights to ensure the success of your do-it-yourself metal roof installation without having to learn technical jargon."

A successful project when it comes to DIY metal roofs requires knowledge of the proper roofing procedure. Start by carefully measuring and designing the roof’s layout. This guarantees that you buy the appropriate quantity of materials and prevents needless waste. Accurate measurements aid in determining the proper slope and pitch for efficient water drainage as well.

Next, before beginning the installation, make sure you have all the required tools and safety gear. This consists of a sturdy ladder, safety goggles, and gloves. In order to avoid mishaps and guarantee a seamless installation procedure, it is imperative that workers handle metal roofing materials safely.

Make sure the roof deck is adequately prepared before installing the metal sheets. This entails looking for any rot or damage that needs to be fixed. Enhancing energy efficiency and preventing moisture buildup can be achieved by installing the proper underlayment and insulation.

Pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions when positioning the metal sheets. Work your way methodically across the roof, starting at one corner. To preserve weather resistance and structural integrity, make sure each sheet overlaps correctly and use the proper fasteners.

Examine the roof carefully after installation is finished to look for any cracks or areas that might require more sealing or adjusting. Make sure all trim and flashing are properly fastened to guarantee that they offer sufficient defense against wind and water intrusion.

And finally, maintaining your DIY metal roof on a regular basis is essential to its longevity. Every year, check it for wear and damage, especially following extreme weather. Timely maintenance and repairs will help protect your investment and keep your house safe.

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